I doubt it's the AC. The drain tube from the box goes through the firewall on the passenger side. If it got clogged or disconnected, there'd be water on the passenger side.
The tube under the driver seat is the heating duct for the rear passenger when you have air directed to the feet (a little comes out, even if you don't). I doubt water is coming in that way.
Since it's collecting and not draining, you probably don't have a leak in the floorpan. Sounds like you may have a leak around the windshield or rear glass. I'd poke around both for signs of dried salt or a dirt trail (from dust in the water getting into your car). I found the leak into the trunk of my '89 323 this way (it was a worn gasket around the right tail-lamp assembly...cut my own to replace it and it's been water-tight since).
I wouldn't rule out the weatherstripping around the doors either, but I don't think it's likely. Look for signs of water stains on the headliner too.
After reading your suggestions, I went to have a close look of the car. I failed to find any leaking trace along the windshield or the rear glass area. But when I opened the trunk and uncovered the floor carpet, I was surprised to see a awful lot of water and ice in the well for the spare tire. Besides, there is also some water and ice in a small concave area in the trunk on the driver side, but not on the right side where the jack jack handle are placed. And the left side of the cardboard that covers the spare tire is also wet.
Remove the plastic covers over each and look for the dirt. If it's still under warranty, you might be able to get any water-damaged stuff replaced too. Worth asking anyhow. If it's out of warranty (believe me, my '89 was WAY out when I found the leak), you can either buy the gasket or cut one yourself out of some closed-cell foam.
Remember the "bad vibrations" that my car would give off? Well i have not had that for the last 3 days. I am hoping the problem is solved with the $2.51 fix that I made.
I changed the PCV valve. Instead of using Mazda part for $12, I got a purolator one.
Feels nice ever since. Cross my fingers that that was the end of that problem.
Many thanks for both of you regarding the water problem.
OK, I was trying to get access to the rear taillight area on the driver's side to check the gasket, but I encountered another trouble: How to remove the trunk end trim with the inside cover in the trunk? What kind of tools could I use for such an opening?
I tried to pull the center section of the plastic retainers on the trunk end trim with a screwdriver, but it did not work, and even worse, I broke the top of one retainer.
Any suggestions, anybody?
And if the gasket is bad, what can I do? Go and ask a Mazda mechanic to replace it, or I can go to some store to get a new one?
I guess this is not a 'problem', but I want to get feedback anyhow. In my 96 Protege (1.5L, 5spd), which is a nice little car, I can feel that in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear I seem to hit a 'sweet spot' towards the 'end' of the gear. I don't have a tach (DX model), but, for example, 2nd gear is OK below 15 ~ 20 mph, but if I push it a little beyond 20 mph it feels like it 'opens up' (like the push you would get in a 70's VW bug when the second carburator - or is it secondaries - kicks in), and I feel a noticeable increase in power.
My question is, is ths the 'power band' I'm getting to, or should I have a more even power band. If so, what could be causing this change? I bought the car with 53K miles, and I am pretty certain it has the original plugs, wires, cap and rotor, O2 sensor, PCV valve, etc., etc...
What you're feeling is the engine just getting into the middle of its peak torque range.
I can't say for sure about your 1.5L, but the 1.6L in my '99 Protege seems to accelerate most strongly between 2500 and 4500 rpm. It seems most fuel-efficient around the lower end of this range (from about 1800-2700).
Most 4-cyl's are quite peaky. I find that my 1.6 has most of its power after 3500 RPM. You can definitely hear the engine start to roar especially after I had my aftermarket intake installed.
Thnks to all you people who recommended the RedLine Oil. I made the change last Friday and it made a huge difference to thr driveability of the car when its cold. I changed from the OEM to Pennzoil and that helped a bit with the synchro ticklin but made the shift stiff and hard to move, but now with the Redline in the transaxle my P5 is much better thx to all. Now why doesnt Mazda have a fix for this under warranty, it ticks me off with a new car, you shouldnt hafta be doing changes to the trans at my expense!!!
On a 96 Protege, I am getting a code p0170 which says "fuel trim (bank1) " in the manual that came with the reader.Does anyone know what the hell "fuel trim" actually means? I can't find it anywhere. The car runs very rough and stumbles(intermitent) and the check engine light comes on. I can reset it with the reader but it onlystays out for a few days. I tried basic tune and filter items but no luck. Tempted to go for o2 sensor but there are 2 and don't want to end up wasting over $150 if It's not it.
Fuel trim is the computer's attempt to adjust (trim) the air/fuel ratio because an O2 sensor is reporting a lean mixture. Start by checking for vacuum leaks, especially any cracks or damage to the ducting between the airflow meter and the throttle body.
Hi all - my '91 SE is emitting a slow creaking when I turn the steering wheel -- it usually happens when I first pull out of my parking spot and seems to get less noticeable after a few minutes of driving. I think the power steering fluid levels are OK; any idea what I'm looking at?
Hi, I have a 2001 Protege LX 2 litre auto trans with 20,000 miles on it. When I start the car and then move the shift from P(Park) to R(Reverse), the stick is tough to me and makes a slight thud. This happens 75% of the time. Sometimes it moves very smoothly from P to R. All other positions like D(drive), N(neutral) are always smooth.
Do you set your parking brake? If not and you are parked on an incline, the transmission parking pawl gets bound by the weight of the car. This occurs on most vehicles. Shift to part with the foot brake applied, set the parking brake and release the foot pedal. When you go to move the vehicle, shift to reverse and then release the parking brake.
This post was sponsored by: The Manual Transmission: More Bang for Your Buck.
When I start the car and then move the shift from P(Park) to R(Reverse), the stick is tough to me and makes a slight thud.
Malt, the thud I hear when shifting into reverse is a plashing thump or often a resonating crunch. This happens 95% of the time when I back over my 7-year old son's bike, action figures, or his hockey stick etc. What maintenance or repair is best to resolve this, parking brake and release the foot pedal, clangorous noise?
This post was sponsored by: The Open-sesame Garage Door Organization
When I start the car, I release the parking brake and then keep my foot on the foot brake and then move the stick from P to R. Let me try what you said i.e. move from P to R and then release the Parking brake.
Like you said, on inclines, it is more tough to move from P to R although I press the foot brake.
Just got back from a trip and my 96 1.5 started acting up. I drove it this morning with no problems whatsoever for about 15 miles. Then, as I pulled out from a stop light, it started stumbling at low engine speed (low rpm) in all gears, the CEL started flashing, and then it stayed lit.
It only does it at low rpm, but it's fine at higher rpm. My guess is fuel filter or a crack in the air intake. However, why did it happen all of a sudden?
I mean, can plug wires start giving you trouble 'instantaneously'? I though it was a more gradual thing. Anyway, I was thinking they needed changing anyway (together with plugs, rotor, and cap), so I'll do that first.
It is very likely, as it misfires only under load, and under those circumstances is when you can get the largest juice losses from the wires.
Also, if that fixes the problem, how do I reset the CEL? This is OBD-II, so I think I need a scan tool, right?
Meade, Chikoo, you were right. It was the plug wires. Bought an NGK set from a local Mazda dealer (for 65, not bad), changed them this afternoon, and my Protege is back to normal. Actually, it's better than before. I think that it was a little sluggish and lacking power at low rpm due to the cables (I posted a little while ago about this). I'm amazed it's so abrupt: One second you're fine, the next the thing is misfiring like crazy.
Finally, any way to reset the CEL without going to a dealer or AutoZone? taking the battery out and stepping on the brakes won't work in this one, as it is OBD-II...
I think you need code puller to reset the light. I used to work at J-lube and we had those to check people's engine lights and to reset them when we did a fuel injector cleaning. Stop by a Jiffy Lube and see if they will reset it for you, I used to do it for people all the time for free. They will read any codes if they're in there too and look them up for you to see what they are.
As with most sounds it is often difficult to put into words. The Mazda service reps describe it as a vibration noise. To me it sounds like a groaning noise. It is similar to the noise made when you accelerate quickly, especially in first gear,only deeper and more pronounced.
Later on I had to disconnect the battery for other purpose. Today I went ot Autozone to see what the CEL was about. It did not pick up any codes. Teh OBD-II was clear.
I have a four years old (99 Protege ES) with 37K miles on it. I forgot to put the fuel-filler cap back on when I pumped the previous tank of gas. Then the Check Engine light came on when the gas tank was almost empty. I realized the mistake, put the cap back on, drove about 20 miles, and the light remained on.
Other than the light staying on, now I do notice that the gas gauge is not accurate and sensitive as before. For example, a full tank of gas does not indicate as full as before on the gauge.
The manual says: "If the light remains on (even after you have tightened the cap securely, driven, and restarted the engine several times), it has an electrical problem."
Would light disappear after a while? Would Mazda cover the four years old car (37K miles) with the warranty? How risky if I drive the car for a couple of weeks?
Thank you very much for your thoughts and information.
A lot of times, the engine light won't turn off though. We had to buy a handheld scanner tool at Jiffy Lube because the fuel injection/inktake cleaner would set off CELs on most OBDII cars and they weren't turning off even after a week. It was always the same code that was set off too, a cylinder misfire. The cylinders misfire when you run cleaner through the vacuum system but then they stop misfiring as soon as you reconnect the vaccuum lines. The light stays on though. The tool would even tell you which cylinder was misfiring or how many were misfiring.
I have driven the car for about 250 miles so far with several starts, but the Check Engine Light remains on whenever I drive it. According to alcan, the light will eventually go off after a while although the error would be retained in the memory for a period of time, is this correct?
In my case, should I really be worried about it as it was due to the open fuel-filler cap so that I should bring the car to a dealership? Or just ignore it right now? Thanks again for your input.
Yes..It is indeed free at Autozone. They don't have a service dept, they just have the sales people hook up the tool,and read the codes...their motive is to sell you the parts you need to fix it yourself.
Comments
Just my 2 cents.
ProtegeFan, do you know what autopart chains might carry RedLine.
Fries1, try going to RedLines site and seeing what places in Canada carry it. www.redlineoil.com
HTH
The tube under the driver seat is the heating duct for the rear passenger when you have air directed to the feet (a little comes out, even if you don't). I doubt water is coming in that way.
Since it's collecting and not draining, you probably don't have a leak in the floorpan. Sounds like you may have a leak around the windshield or rear glass. I'd poke around both for signs of dried salt or a dirt trail (from dust in the water getting into your car). I found the leak into the trunk of my '89 323 this way (it was a worn gasket around the right tail-lamp assembly...cut my own to replace it and it's been water-tight since).
I wouldn't rule out the weatherstripping around the doors either, but I don't think it's likely. Look for signs of water stains on the headliner too.
Any idea?
This is not a leak IMO, just snow that is melting inside the car from your boots/shoes.
Dinu
get it checked.
I had it and was fixed.
Remember the "bad vibrations" that my car would give off? Well i have not had that for the last 3 days. I am hoping the problem is solved with the $2.51 fix that I made.
I changed the PCV valve. Instead of using Mazda part for $12, I got a purolator one.
Feels nice ever since.
Cross my fingers that that was the end of that problem.
OK, I was trying to get access to the rear taillight area on the driver's side to check the gasket, but I encountered another trouble: How to remove the trunk end trim with the inside cover in the trunk? What kind of tools could I use for such an opening?
I tried to pull the center section of the plastic retainers on the trunk end trim with a screwdriver, but it did not work, and even worse, I broke the top of one retainer.
Any suggestions, anybody?
And if the gasket is bad, what can I do? Go and ask a Mazda mechanic to replace it, or I can go to some store to get a new one?
Still, you'll likely break some, so order several when you order a replacement gasket.
You can also bring it in for servicing and have your dealership service department replace it. They should replace any fasteners they break.
I guess this is not a 'problem', but I want to get feedback anyhow. In my 96 Protege (1.5L, 5spd), which is a nice little car, I can feel that in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear I seem to hit a 'sweet spot' towards the 'end' of the gear. I don't have a tach (DX model), but, for example, 2nd gear is OK below 15 ~ 20 mph, but if I push it a little beyond 20 mph it feels like it 'opens up' (like the push you would get in a 70's VW bug when the second carburator - or is it secondaries - kicks in), and I feel a noticeable increase in power.
My question is, is ths the 'power band' I'm getting to, or should I have a more even power band. If so, what could be causing this change? I bought the car with 53K miles, and I am pretty certain it has the original plugs, wires, cap and rotor, O2 sensor, PCV valve, etc., etc...
TIA,
G.
I can't say for sure about your 1.5L, but the 1.6L in my '99 Protege seems to accelerate most strongly between 2500 and 4500 rpm. It seems most fuel-efficient around the lower end of this range (from about 1800-2700).
Thanks goodness...just in time for spring Zoom Zoom
Any input will help-Thanks
Many thanks,
BT
I have a 2001 Protege LX 2 litre auto trans with 20,000 miles on it.
When I start the car and then move the shift from P(Park) to R(Reverse), the stick is tough to me and makes a slight thud.
This happens 75% of the time. Sometimes it moves very smoothly from P to R.
All other positions like D(drive), N(neutral) are always smooth.
Kindly advise.
Please send an email to rampaps@yahoo.com also.
Thanks.
This post was sponsored by: The Manual Transmission: More Bang for Your Buck.
Malt, the thud I hear when shifting into reverse is a plashing thump or often a resonating crunch. This happens 95% of the time when I back over my 7-year old son's bike, action figures, or his hockey stick etc. What maintenance or repair is best to resolve this, parking brake and release the foot pedal, clangorous noise?
This post was sponsored by: The Open-sesame Garage Door Organization
Meade
Let me try what you said i.e. move from P to R and then release the Parking brake.
Like you said, on inclines, it is more tough to move from P to R although I press the foot brake.
Thank you maltb
Meade
'99 ES, 50,000 miles
one day the alternator is weak.
the next day it is fine.
The day it is weak, i can feel the loss of power.
The day it is fine, it is zoom zoom time.
How can I even take it to the Dealer.
Chances are it is going to show up fine on his meter. Then what?
Any ideas what is really wrong with the alternator?
Just got back from a trip and my 96 1.5 started acting up. I drove it this morning with no problems whatsoever for about 15 miles. Then, as I pulled out from a stop light, it started stumbling at low engine speed (low rpm) in all gears, the CEL started flashing, and then it stayed lit.
It only does it at low rpm, but it's fine at higher rpm. My guess is fuel filter or a crack in the air intake. However, why did it happen all of a sudden?
Any suggestions welcomed!
G.
Meade
It is very likely, as it misfires only under load, and under those circumstances is when you can get the largest juice losses from the wires.
Also, if that fixes the problem, how do I reset the CEL? This is OBD-II, so I think I need a scan tool, right?
Thanks again,
G.
Finally, any way to reset the CEL without going to a dealer or AutoZone? taking the battery out and stepping on the brakes won't work in this one, as it is OBD-II...
Thanks again,
G.
Today I went ot Autozone to see what the CEL was about. It did not pick up any codes. Teh OBD-II was clear.
How?
Other than the light staying on, now I do notice that the gas gauge is not accurate and sensitive as before. For example, a full tank of gas does not indicate as full as before on the gauge.
The manual says: "If the light remains on (even after you have tightened the cap securely, driven, and restarted the engine several times), it has an electrical problem."
Would light disappear after a while? Would Mazda cover the four years old car (37K miles) with the warranty? How risky if I drive the car for a couple of weeks?
Thank you very much for your thoughts and information.
"However, in some cases if the car completes three driving cycles without a re-occurrence of the problem, the freeze frame will be erased."
I have driven the car for about 250 miles so far with several starts, but the Check Engine Light remains on whenever I drive it. According to alcan, the light will eventually go off after a while although the error would be retained in the memory for a period of time, is this correct?
In my case, should I really be worried about it as it was due to the open fuel-filler cap so that I should bring the car to a dealership? Or just ignore it right now? Thanks again for your input.
In fact I did go to Pep Boy yesterday, but didn't have time waiting for their service. And they do charge $100 for an OBD-II reading.