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  • jmarinojmarino Member Posts: 19
    I am looking at at 2003 Tahoe, they have the price down to 33,700. If I have about $3,000 to put down what should I be looking at for a 3 year 12,000 mile lease ? Thanks .
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hi 70gcode. I do not believe that Ford usually provides any sort of lease support on F-250 models. If that is the case, and you were to lease one through Ford Motor Credit, you would have to use their standard lease rates, which are terrible. You most likely would be better off leasing this truck through a bank other than Ford Motor Credit or financing it.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hey ribbonking. You're in luck, Lexus actually has a little lease support on the GS 300 for a change. If you were to lease a 2003 Lexus GS 300 through Lexus Financial Services this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00205 and 59%, respectively.

    As far as the Altima goes, if you were to lease a 2003 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE through Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp. this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00260 and 53%, respectively.

    Have a great weekend!

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    P.S. I just remembered, Lexus also is running a special promotion this month that allows consumers to lease vehicles for 39 months using their 36 month residual values. Doing is a good idea and so will enable you to reduce your monthly lease payment a little bit.
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    I am glad that I have been able to help you out, tvandy. As one might imagine with such a new model, the GX 470 is the only Lexus model that is not receiving some sort of lease support in the December to Remember promotion. So if you were to lease a 2003 Lexus GX 470 without navigation and without the rear entertainment system through Lexus Financial Services this month for 4 years with 12,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00230 and 49%, respectively.

    Happy Holidays

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hi jmarino. Let me begin by saying that I personally believe that it is a bad idea to make any down payment on leased vehicles. I usually advise against doing so for two main reasons. The first is that if your vehicle is stolen and not recovered or totaled in an accident prior to the end of your lease your insurance company pays off the bank that you are leasing through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to establish equity in them. Whether you make a $3,000 down payment or $0 down payment on this truck, your lease-end purchase price will be exactly the same. For these reasons, I believe that one should always lease without making any sort of down payment. The only things that one should have to pay at lease signing are their first month's payment, a security deposit, and the acquisition fee for the bank that they are leasing through.

    In answer to your specific question, if you were to lease a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe through General Motors Acceptance Corp. this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, their base lease rate and residual value should be 6.50% & 55%, respectively.

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  • 70gcode70gcode Member Posts: 6
    Car_man what are the lease numbers for a 2500HD. 3 year 12k miles. Thank You for the info
  • ribbonkingribbonking Member Posts: 24
    CarMan, once again I appreciate your help. Thank you.
  • dliptakdliptak Member Posts: 4
    I am a leasing rookie. I am in 32 month of a 39 month lease of a volvo s80 for $580/month. I am currently 8,000 miles over limit .15/mile and will probably a total of 16,000 miles over when lease terminates. Purchase price is $22,500 which seems real high. I want to walk away from vehicle either now or when lease is over. Should I cut my losses now and terminate or buy it out early. I am looking at buying a new car when this lease experience is over. Any suggestions or help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  • bigelmbigelm Member Posts: 995
    Hey Car_Man:

    Just wanted to thank you again for your help... the lease went smooth and now my wife is very happy to be a proud 'owner' of a 2003 Outback Limited.

    Happy Holidays!!!
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I am currently leasing a '98 Intrepid. Its lease expires in June 03. I'm looking at new minivans, but getting out of the Intrepid lease is going to be more painful then crapping tacs.....no matter how I get out of it.

    Returning the car early isn't an option. I'd still be required to pay the amount of the lease's remaining payements. I still haven't quite figured out how this is even legal. They're making you pay for a portion of time after which you would no longer even have the vehicle anymore. How can they get away with this?

    If I wait until the lease is done, I will have to pay for mileage. My contract was for 5 years with a limit of 60000 miles. The car now has 62K on it, and at the end of the lease, I figure it'll have about 70K. At $.15 per mile, that's $1,500 I'll owe for that.

    I'm not totally sure I completely understand this residual value thing. On my contract is says $7,659. I'm assuming that number has two meanings. If I elect to buy out the car at the end of the lease, that's how much I'll have to pay. It probably also means that if I choose to turn the car in, and if it's determined that the car is worth less than this amount, I'm sure I'll be stuck paying the difference. Of course for every little paint chip and ding they find, they're going depreciate the vehicle another grand, so they'll claim it's worth some ridiculously low amount. Maybe I'll suffer the least amount of loss by buying the car at the end of the lease, then selling it outright. It will still no doubt be a loss, but maybe not as much as if I turn it in.

    I don't understand why paying for a new car requires so many people's hands in my pockets, or why they have to go so deep. There is no less painful way to do it, nor do I believe that a fair price can be had anymore when purchasing a new vehicle. Either you choose a lease to get reasonable payments, but then your stuck with the [non-permissible content removed] reeming of your life at the end of the lease, or you purchase the vehicle and you deal with payments as high as your house payments. This may be too much for me, and maybe I'll buy used next time. Of course now that my sphincter muscle is streatched out big enough to drive an 18 wheeler through, it shouldn't hurt anymore.......but it still does.
  • clpurnellclpurnell Member Posts: 1,083
    You will not be stuck paying the difference if you turn it in. You will only be charged for etra mileage and wear and tear. Thats it. That is why leasing is good if you thin k the residual is artificially high because the dealer is stuck with the difference. I would either pay the 1500 and give it back or try to sell it for the buyout price on my own. You may also be able to negotiate the buyout price call the finance company and talk to a manager and see if you can negotiate the buyout down.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    What if I'm able to get the lease co to nagotiate on the buyout price. Then advertise to sell the vehicle outright. Once I find a buyer, I could see if I could get the dealership where I plan to purchase my new vehicle to be the middleman. They could theoretically act as the buyer (dealers don't pay sales tax, so I wouldn't have to pay on it this deal either). Then the real buyer would buy it from the dealership. This might be the best method for losing the least amount of money. There ain't no way I'll make money......it's an Intrepid.
  • clpurnellclpurnell Member Posts: 1,083
    Sounds like a good idea. Go to the real world trade in values thread in "smart shopper" and tell Terry what equip it has and ask for trade and retail numbers.
  • polomanpoloman Member Posts: 5
    Hey Car_man,

    Would you know what the current residuals and money factors are for 36 or 39 month 10K miles/year for the Infiniti Q45, MB E320, Jag S-Type V6, and Lincoln LS V-8. I have a 2000 BMW 5 series coming off lease in Feb 2003. I know that sometimes competitors will offer "buyout" of one or two months to get you into one of their cars. I was at Jaguar yesterday and they have a $1000 offer to get someone out early if they are current BMW or MB leasees. Jaguar quoted me 54% residual and 0.00199 MF on a 39month 10K/year lease as part of their "Unwrap a Jag" promotion. They were also discounting the S-Type 4K from MSRP. Do you think this was a good deal? Your help is greatly appreciated.
  • landru2landru2 Member Posts: 638
    "Returning the car early isn't an option. I'd still be required to pay the amount of the lease's remaining payements. I still haven't quite figured out how this is even legal. They're making you pay for a portion of time after which you would no longer even have the vehicle anymore. How can they get away with this?"

    They aren't trying to get away with anything. It's you that is trying to get away with not paying what you agreed to pay.

    If you had decided to return the car after making two payments do you think you could just give it back and that would be the end of it?
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    .....is that whenever I turn in the vehicle, I will already have paid for the portion of time I've used the vehicle. Why should a person be liable for the amount equal to the remainder of the full term of the lease if they turn the vehicle in early? Not only is the lease company going to sell the vehicle, but they're getting money for a portion of the lease when the leasee would no longer have the vehicle. That's called double dipping in my book. If a leasee wants to turn in the vehicle prior to the end of the term, then they should only have to pay a reasonable early termination fee, something like $200-300, and be done with it. The lease company is going to get their money out of the vehicle no matter when it's turned in.
  • tucker24tucker24 Member Posts: 1
    I just completed the buy-out of the lease on my Subaru Impreza. At the dealership, the finance manager assigned to complete my paperwork insisted that I must pay a $900 fee for a smog check and safety certification. I was told that the lease buy-out process technically involved me selling the leased car to the dealership, who then would sell it back to me. This just doesn't make any sense to me, since Subaru credit has the title on the car during the lease. In California, a seller of a car must provide evidence of a smog check for cars more than 4 model years older or older. I bought my Subaru in December 1998, so I have just reached the 4-year threshold for smog checks. No one ever mentioned the $900 fee to me during my calls to Subaru lease-end customer service reps or the dealer. Was I railroaded into a non-essential fee? To make me madder, the finance manager offered to waive the fee if I bought an extended warranty for $1500. I want to understand what happened and if there is any way to get my money back. Thanks.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    .....state that you're responsible for this? If not, I'd say the dealer doesn't have a leg to stand on.
  • innerloopinnerloop Member Posts: 26
    Your logic is pretty flawed, unfortunately. Your leasing charges are not like the rent you pay on an apartment, you're not paying for use. If you want that, go talk to Budget or Hertz. Leasing basically takes the total depreciation over the term of the lease, divides it by the term length, and adds the financing fees. You pay the same for the first month and the last month, but there is SURE as heck more depreciation for your car in month 1 than month 36. If it worked like you wanted it to, everyone would sign a 4 year lease, drive the car for about a year, and just drop it off at the curb someplace. Doesn't work that way. Wisbh it did :)

    If you want to end it early, the best thing would be to get a buyout quote, sell the car on your own, and pay the buyout amount from that.

    There does seem to be one part that could be considered "unfair" -- by buying out the balance of the loan, you are basically paying all the interest charges on the money you "borrowed" for the full term of the loan, even though you're basically paying the money back early. Think of it as a loan with a really significant pre-payment penalty. Its not illegal (that I know of), but its definitely not the nicest clause in the world. That's just one of the pitfalls in almost every lease. That, and the fact that you are paying interest on both the total amount of the car AND the lease-end residual value, you're sort of paying interest on 150% of the car's value..
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hello 70gcode. I believe that if you were to lease any sort of Chevrolet Silverado Crew Cab pickup through General Motors Acceptance Corp. this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, their base lease rate and residual value should be 6.50% and 55%, respectively.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    You're welcome again, ribbonking :).

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Dliptak, your least expensive option in this situation would be to wait until the end of your vehicle's lease and then to purchase it and continue driving it for a while. Doing so would enable you to avoid any sort of excess mileage penalty. However, you have already stated that you plan on getting a new vehicle when your lease is up.

    Unfortunately you are not going to be able to walk away from your leased car at this time. The bank that you are leasing it through is going to require you to make your remaining lease payments, unless you purchase your vehicle from them. It may be possible to purchase this car for less than the purchase option price that was established at lease signing. In order to find out if the bank that you are leasing it through would be willing to work with you on its price you are going to need to give them a call. When you do so, it often turns out that your initial contact has no authority to work with you on the price. If that is the case, you need to move a few rungs up the ladder to a manager who has the authority to negotiate with you. If you are able to buy your S80 cheap enough, you could avoid any mileage penalty and sell it for what you paid for it, or perhaps even a profit.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Thanks for taking the time to check back with us and let us know how everything turned out, bigelm. Congratulations on your new car!

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  • tvandytvandy Member Posts: 12
    Car Man,

    I've figured the Capitalized cost for the GX470 to be 49,200 without the navigation system. My calculations give me a monthly payment of roughly $690 for 48 months. Is this accurate and how much will the tax in IL bring this number up per month? Is there anything else that I'm not thinking about that will affect this number? Thanks again for your assistance.
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    As far as I am concerned, leasing is like a long-term rental. So... since you don't own the car, you are liable for the terms on the contract. Everything is stated on the contract... IE 12k/year 3years, etc .15/mile over... It is an agreement that is signed, and that's why I personally don't like leases, mainly because I like owning my vehicle and not having to worry about mileage, condition, etc. Besides that, I have a bad habit of changing things on my vehicles(wheels, tires, stereo, lights, suspension, etc) which they do not allow on leases unless you put it back to OE when you bring it back to them.
  • ryokenryoken Member Posts: 291
    $900 seems outrageous for a smog fee. When we did the buy-out on a 98 Grand Cherokee last year, the dealership did try to charge us for a smog fee.. I don't remember the exact amount, somewhere between $300 and $500. Our vehicle was also only 3 years old at this point (36 mo lease). I went to a station, had the vehicle smogged myself for $60, and presented the paperwork to the dealership -- and they dropped the fee. Since you've already paid it, there's probably no way to get it back.
  • footiefootie Member Posts: 636
    In a lease the finance part of the monthly payment is the ( net cap cost + residual ) x money factor. It does look like you are paying interest on the price of the vehicle more than once - maybe 150%, but I don't think you are. Here's why.

    The money factor is the effective annual interest divided by 24 - not 12 as one might think, to get the monthly finance charge "interest rate". ( i.e. 6% year is a money factor of .0025 ).

    The reason why its 24, not 12, is that you pay finance charge on the average amount financed. They compute the average by adding the cap cost to the residual and dividing by 2.

    So in math terms:

    average amount borrowed x monthly interest =

    ( cap cost + residual ) annual interest
    ----------------------- x ------------------- =
    2 x 12

    ( cap cost + residual ) x annual interest
    ------------------------------------------ =
    24

    ( cap cost + residual ) x money factor =

    The monthly finance charge.

    The monthly finance charge is added to monthly depreciation to get pre tax lease payment. The monthly depreciation is easier. It is ( cap cost - residual ) / leaseterm

    There is your pre-tax lease payment.
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hi poloman. I have seen the lease programs for the vehicles that you are interested in and would be more than happy to help you out. First, if you were to lease a 2003 Infiniti Q45 (Non-Premium) through Infiniti Financial Services this month for 3 years with 10,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00174 and 54%, respectively.

    According to the most recent Mercedes-Benz Credit Corp. lease program that I have seen, if you were to lease a 2003 Mercedes-Benz E320 Sedan this month for 3 years with 10,000 miles per their base factor and residual should be .00285 and a solid 70%.

    Next, if you were to lease a 2003 Jaguar S-Type V6 (Non-Sport) through Jaguar Credit this month for 3 years with 10,000 miles per, their base factor and residual value should be .00202 and 56%.

    Last but not least, we have the Lincoln LS. I have not seen the lease program for the 2003 LS yet. I believe that this car had a late 2003 model year introduction because of some sort of redesign. Ford does still have a lease program on the 2002 LS. Would you be interested in those numbers instead?

    Jaguar definitely has some strong incentives out there right now. If you feel as though you would enjoy driving a new S-Type and can afford the payment I see no reason not to negotiate a good deal and pull the trigger on one.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hi tvandy. Tax laws very from state to state so I really can not provide you with an accurate estimate of what your taxes should be like on your new truck. However, I would be more than happy to calculate a sample lease payment on it for you if you provide me with its full MSRP, selling price, how long you plan on leasing it for, and how many miles per year you need. Drop me a note with these details and I will let you know what I come up with. Talk to you soon.

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  • tvandytvandy Member Posts: 12
    Car Man,

    The MSRP of the GX is 49,275 with out Navi. The selling price would be the same since the dealers have a 2 month wait list on the car and aren't moving off MSRP. I'm looking to lease for 48 months with 12K per.

    My tax question was basically, are you taxed the same percentage on the full sale price of the vehicle as you are when you buy it, or are you only taxed on the % of the car that you use? Do you pay interest on the tax if it's added into the payment? Say the tax is 6.5%, how would it be figured into the numbers in the above example?
  • ogbuffguyogbuffguy Member Posts: 42
    i heard BMW FS is giving support on bmw 330ci this month, is it true?? what are the rates for the month of december???
  • ryokenryoken Member Posts: 291
    They have a low money factor. 0.0019, I think, for the month of December. It is true. I started to buy a 330i sedan, but changed my mind and got a G35 instead. It was a 330i sedan with Premium, Sport, Steptronic & Xenon for about $900 down, $585/mo (including tax) for a 39 mo lease.
  • viewer_xviewer_x Member Posts: 6
    Carman,

    Looking to potentially lease a vehicle by the end of the month. What do you have for MF, Residuals on the 325xi, x-type 2.5, a4 3.0 quattro, pilot EX-L and wrx wagon for 36 or 39 months and 12,000 miles per year? I would want the 5sp on all except the pilot. I live in CT if that makes a difference.

    Thanks for your help.
  • dlubindlubin Member Posts: 66
    Hi!

    I'm now a high-mileage driver, and am contemplating different finance scenarios for a BMW 330xi, X5 Manual, or Audi 2.7t Manual.

    Aside from the residual/MF questions, my big question is: Is the cost for extra miles (@.15/per) negotiable? If so, how low can they go??

    Thanks!!

    Dan
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Thanks for the additional information, tvandy. I definitely am not surprised that you have to pay full MSRP to get a GX 470 at this point. That is often the case with new vehicles that are well received by the market. Let's take a look at a sample lease payment for you. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2003 Lexus GX 470 (MSRP: $49,275 / Cap Cost: $49,275) through Lexus Financial Services this month for 4 years with 12,000 miles per, your zero down, pre-tax monthly lease payment should be $674. As far as the tax issue goes, again different states have different methods for calculating tax on leased vehicles, not just different tax rates. If you let me know where you live, I may be able to direct you to a Web site that contains the information that you are looking for.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hey ogbuffguy. Yes, BMW is indeed providing special lease money factors on the 2003 330i for the month of December. Ryoken, BMW FS' special lease money factor on the 330 was .00190 in the month of November, but in December, they have enhanced it ever further to an attractive .00135 for up to 42 month terms.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Good morning viewer_x. Here is the information that you are looking for. First, if you were to lease a 2003 BMW 325xi through BMW Financial Services this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00215 and 62%, respectively. Next we have the 2003 Jaguar X-Type 2.5 (Non-Sport). If you were to lease this car through Jaguar Credit for the same terms, its factor and residual should be .00200 and 54%, respectively. As far as the A4 goes, if you were to lease a 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Sedan with quattro through Audi Financial Services this month for the aforementioned terms, their base factor and residual should be .00200 and 58%. Next is the Honda Pilot EX-L. If you were to lease this truck through American Honda Finance Corp. this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, its base money factor and residual value should be .00230 and 63%, respectively. Last but not least we have the 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX. If you were to lease this vehicle through Subaru's captive finance company for the above terms, its base factor and residual value should be .00235 and 53%. Whew...I think that I got them all :).

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hi Dan. If you know that you will exceed your vehicle's lease mileage allowance, purchasing excess miles at lease signing is a very good idea. The price that it will cost you per mile is set by the bank that you are leasing through. Individual dealerships have no authority to lower this price and I don't think that banks will be willing to negotiate their mileage charges with you. However, when buying mileage at the beginning of a lease, most banks will provide consumers with a price that is discounted from what it will cost them per mile at lease end if they exceed their allowance.

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  • dlubindlubin Member Posts: 66
    Carman (and anyone else who would like to weigh in!)

    I'm looking at getting a loaded BMW 330xi. The car runs a 60% residual for 36 months, and with multiple security deposits I can get the money down to around 1.5%

    So ... I'm thinking that I should lease @ 15k miles a year, even though I know I'll probably buy the thing at the end of the lease since the note is practically 'interest free'.

    If for some reason I decide not to purchase it, of course I can pay the mileage penalty and turn it in.

    Make sense?

    Dan
  • spatulamanspatulaman Member Posts: 157
    Oh wise and wonderful car_man, I am in need of help! What residuals and money factors do you list for the above cars in both 2002 and 2003 models? Also, what do you know about Audi's Premier Purchase plan? In case there are any regional incentives, I'll buy the car in either Texas or Louisana, depening on where I find the best deal.
  • viewer_xviewer_x Member Posts: 6
    Carman,

    Is the 0.00135 rate you quoted above valid for the 330xi as well as the 330i??? I also assume you can further buy down the rate with extra security deposits. If so, what sort of residual on 36/12000 is there? Seems like it might be less expensive than the 325xi.

    Thanks for all your help.
  • innerloopinnerloop Member Posts: 26
    I would disagree with your logic. If you have enough cash to put down multiple security deposits, that cash could be better put to work by making a larger down-payment on the car. Using a closed-end lease to protect against maybe not liking the car or having it turn out to be an undesireable car (ie: its a new model and maybe it will be discontinued or a lemon), that would make some sense. But you know the 330 is going to be a well-regarded car going forward. Unless for some reason you really hate the process of selling or trading in your cars or something, it seems like the financially smart move would be to buy the car and then you have the luxury and option of selling it anytime you want, for whatever price you want, rather than having a pre-determined window/price to walk away from it.

    If you know you are going to exceed the lease mileage, you are tying your hands even further by leasing.

    Do the math and see if the total interest paid on the lease/purchase option is actually less than making a big down payment and financing the rest. Doesn't BMW have some support for the loan rates as well that mimic what they did on the leases?
  • hicairahicaira Member Posts: 276
    Hi Car_man. Does the 330ci money factor also apply to the sedan? What are the residuals for 12/15k, 36/42mo?

    Thanks,

    HiC
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Dan, lots of people lease vehicles at extremely low interest rates with the intention of purchasing them at the end of their term. I personally do not see anything wrong with your plan. Another bonus that you never even mentioned is that many banks will negotiate their lease-end purchase prices with consumers. Of course there is no guarantee that BMW FS will be willing to work with you, but if they do you will not only get an extremely low interest rate but also will not have to pay for part of your vehicle's depreciation.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Yes, viewer_x, the aforementioned special lease money factor is also available on the 300xi as well. This rate may indeed be bought down with multiple security deposits, allowing one to get quite a deal on a 330 right now. BMW FS' 36 month, 12,000 miles per year residual value for a 2003 330xi is currently 62%.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hi spatulaman. Thanks for the flattery, :). I have always liked the Audi TT. I can tell you right now that you don't want to lease any 2002 Audi at this point. They have discontinued their special lease money factors on '02 models and their '03 program is much more attractive. I would be more than happy to fill you in on the specifics of their current lease program if you let me know how long you plan on leasing for and how many miles per year you need to be able to drive without penalty.

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  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    Hey HiC. Yes, 330 Sedans are also eligible for this special money factor. If you were to lease a 2003 BMW 330i through BMW Financial Services this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00135 and 60%, respectively. Their 42 month numbers should be .00135 and 53%. BMW FS' 12,000 miles per year residual values should be 2% higher than their 15,000 miles per year numbers.

    Happy Holidays,

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  • spatulamanspatulaman Member Posts: 157
    Hehehe...yeah....I remembered mileage and timeframe *after* I posted. :) Its probably going to be 24 or 36 months, and 15k miles/year. Don't forget to share anything you know on the premiere purchase plan, too.
  • chrish11chrish11 Member Posts: 28
    Hi Car Man,


    Would you please advise the MF and residual for an Audi A6 3.0 Avant, 3yr with 15k mi/year in Pennsylvania? Any other lease cash or incentives for this wagon? Thanks!

  • worcesterpcworcesterpc Member Posts: 2
    looking for some numbers on a 2002/03 cr-v ex auto lease before we head to a dealer. we are in new england, thanks.
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