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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    The damn panels are pressed paper that warp due to moisture. My '99es has had the problem for a few years. One goof in an overall great design.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I have a '95 Protege M/T (183K miles) and I too have a low idle issue every so often. It usually goes low for 3-4 seconds and then comes back up again. The car has never stalled because of this. This evening, just as I was driving the car up on the ramps to change the oil, the idle went low and the check engine light came on. I'll get the code tomorrow morning and find out what is causing this. I suspect either the fuel pump is weak or alternator is going bad. I'll post again to let you know what I found.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Have you guys ever changed your plug wires? If so, how long has it been since you've done so?

    Meade
  • mazcarmazcar Member Posts: 7
    i have no idea if the have been cahnged on mine!!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    ... having owned three Proteges and one Protege5 in 14 years ...

    ... That'd be the first thing I'd do.

    Meade
  • zoom zoom kingzoom zoom king Member Posts: 26
    To the people who have there tach fall ive had a similar incident it was pooring rain i barely touch the brake all my instruments cut off and i thought the car cut off i heard nothing the cel wasnt on neither was oil light it was odd once i gain stability everything went back to normal does anybody know why this happened. Also for some reason if i floor the gas pedal it doesnt react i have a 99 lx pro i was wonderin if anyone elso has this problem
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    I second Meade. Change wires every 30k miles or so. Pro's fry them.

    I also suggest a bottle of techron a few times a year to clean injectors and other intake areas.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I was way off thinking it was the fuel pump or alternator (expecting the worst I guess). The code was P1797 or Neutral Switch Circuit Malfunction. So it is either a bad neutral switch or a poor PCM connection or insufficient voltage to the PCM or bad wiring between the PCM and the neutral switch. I bought the switch from Auto Zone (they did the code read) because it was only $25 and I will replace it and check the system in the next few days.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I second Meade. Change wires every 30k miles or so. Pro's fry them.
    My Pro5 has not experienced this problem after 30K; my sparkplugs were replaced last year as part of the standard maintenance and this baby continues to hum. Replacing the sparkplug wires is inexpensive and reasonable. A diagnostic may not be a bad idea if the problem continues.
  • sibtribsibtrib Member Posts: 1
    i seem to be having a problem with my turn signals. I have checked all the fuses and they seem ok. i cannot find the turn signal relay/flasher. it is a 2000 protege. the headlights and brake lights work. any ideas?

    thanks

    wilson
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Gen3 Protege rear door panels are made of some pressed wood chip material that tends to warp with changing moisture content and temperature. Mine get worse in cold, dry weather. The front door panels are made differently. Go figure.

    Many things can contribute to uneven idle speed: MAF/MAS, EGR valve, PCM, plugs, plug wires.

    On my '99LX, with the 1.6L engine, it's located behind the top of the engine, toward the driver's side. It's pretty hard to get to. The easiest thing to access is the electrical connections, so you can check the impedance across the pins (to make sure the electrical components are OK). Pulling the entire thing off to clean is a 2-3 hour task, so I pay the dealer's shop to do that.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    How about telling us what your turn signals are doing?

    Meade
  • lassybreadlassybread Member Posts: 1
    I own a 99 protege, 1.6 litre, automatic, I have a problem with the tranny. It cuts out when you put it in reverse and now there is a problem with the forward gears. Somebody told me there was a prob with that year. Anyone know anything about it.
  • davluvbbaldavluvbbal Member Posts: 3
    My 1999 mazda protege has 100,000 miles five speed. It has never had a problem until recently. It has started cutting out at about 2500 rpm. It only does it when it is hot and only at one spot on the foot feed. When I push the foot feed down more or let off it seems to stop. I have new plugs, wires, and filters and don't think they are a problem. The service engine light comes on, I had it checked and said the fuel mixture was to lean. but nothing else. I Need some help sorting this one out.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    had it checked and said the fuel mixture was to lean. but nothing else
    Doesn't sound like a very comprehensive diagnostic test. Did your dealership do it?
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I replaced the neutral switch on my '95 Pro LX, M/T this morning. It wasn't that hard to do, but it did require me to remove the battery and battery tray to get to the electrical connector. If only I had tiny hands, I might have been able to reach it from below!

    I did a continuity test on the old switch and it failed. So buying the new $25 switch was worthwhile.

    As far as this correcting the low idle issue when I initially shift into neutral, I am not sure yet. It still seems to drop too low initially (250 RPM) before coming back up. I need to check the amperage output from the alternator and also check the spark, wire resistance, cap and rotor, etc. I will get it all straightened out by the end of the summer and hopefully share some answers.
  • 11b33t11b33t Member Posts: 51
    You need to check both the front right & left side CV boots to see if they are torn. If one of them is, you may have a half-shaft problem and CV boot, ball joint, and half-shaft gotta be R/R. Should run about $240-$300. This is for one side only though since my 92 Pro likes to stagger any ailments she gets!
  • ridaveridave Member Posts: 2
    1999. Radio display started going blank intermittently. Sometimes it would keep playing but I could not control anything; sometimes the volume would go down (some or all the way). Playing with the volume control know would sometimes bring back the display (and the control). Now I notice that when I turn on the headlights, I lose the radio display. Wacky. I hesitate to just replace the radio because it has both tape and CD which is difficult/impossible to get in a single unit or without a CD changer. I also think the problem might be in the electrical system in the car, not in the radio so replacing the radio might help only for a short time.

    Thanks!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Any other electrical things not operating? How old is your battery?
  • tlyontlyon Member Posts: 3
    Recently while driving my '95 Protege I lost my tail lights, parking lights, marker lights, instrument lights, and license plate lights. Thinking blown fuse, I checked the manual and found one fuse that protected all these lights. Checked it and found it good, but I replaced it anyway with a new fuse, then a second one (known to be good). No joy. Looking at the schematic in my Chilton manual I noticed that these lights are also protected by a relay labeled TNS in the book. It is not in the engine compartment fuse box or in the fusebox inside near the clutch. Does anyone know where the TNS relay is located? Also, how do you determine if a relay is bad?

    Thanks.

    Tim
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    My Haynes manual states that most of the relays (including the TNS) are located in one relay assembly under the dashboard on the driver's side. If faulty, they suggest removing and testing by a dealer or qualified shop and that defective relays must be replaced as a unit. It seems beyond the scope of the manual, I guess. Thankfully, I haven't had any problems with relays yet.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I adjusted the pedal height and freeplay of the clutch this afternoon on my '95 Pro LX. I am to the point of having no more adjustment room left, or in other words, I am at the end of the threads on the bolt to keep it in specs. Coincidentally, the car just recently began lugging noticeably and some shuddering at lower RPM's in higher gears. For example, I use to be able to run fine at 2000 RPMs in 4th gear. Now it needs to be 2200-2400 RPMs. Is this a sign of the clutch failing? I am expecting it sometime soon as I run the car hard and have 183K miles. Thanks.
  • newtoboardnewtoboard Member Posts: 12
    I have a '99 also ES. The same exact thing is happening to me also. I, like you, play w ith the volume control when the radio is on and the screen goes blank and it brings it back. Everything else in the car works fine, so I think it's probably something with the wiring. The only pain is when I first turn the car on sometimes and the display is not there and I can't turn the radio on. After a few minutes or so it comes on and I'm able to do everything. It's a nusance, but I'll live with it. It's better than going out and buying a whole new radio which like you said had a cassette and CD combined. If you ever find a solution, please post.

    Thanks :)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    183K miles on a clutch is not bad. I think it's time.

    Meade
  • 11b33t11b33t Member Posts: 51
    92 Pro has a sun roof alignment problem where I can use the tilt feature but when I attempt to open the sun roof, the panel will drop down in preparation to open but 'hangs' up on the drivers side. Looks like it may be an alignment issue. Tried to use the manual crank but same problem prevents opening. Anyone have some insight on troubleshooting?
  • sirgunitsirgunit Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Protege Lx and it has the auto lock but when i go to lock it or unlock it it does not move on the driver side so i have to use the key or pull it up or push it down. Anyone know how to fix it?
  • davluvbbaldavluvbbal Member Posts: 3
    I would like to avoid the cost of the dealership. The computer gave a 17 code and said to lean. However, it is not a constant code. the computer can be clear for 100 miles or so. It cuts out when the accelerator is about half way down. If I don't try to accelerate to fast it does not do it or if I push it all the way down it seems to stop. I am stumped
  • ndholendhole Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a used 95 protege with a 1.5L standard trans. that had the same problem. Ended up my problem was the throttle positioning sensor, about $120 at O'Rielly Auto Supply or Autozone. It's kind of a pain to replace though because of a prong that has to line up just right or you'll bend it and it won't work properly. You also might just need your engine idled up some. I had both done at the same time and haven't had a similar problem since.
  • ndholendhole Member Posts: 2
    If your mechanic doesn't have a clue then take it to a different mechanic, he's looking to rip you off. I had a similar problem with my 95 protege it's a standard trans 1.5L. Ended up it was the throttle positions sensor, that and my mechanic idled up the engine as well and problem solved.
  • ridaveridave Member Posts: 2
    Everything else is hunky-dory. Not a single issue with anything. Battery is pretty new I think, though can't remember if the battery I replaced two years ago was on my Mazda, or my wife's Saab.

    Perhaps related: two years ago check engine light came on. Turned out that oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. The light is on again. I have not yet had it diagnosed. There is no relation between timing of check engine light and badly behaving radio but thought maybe that whatever is causing the check engine may also be causing the radio.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Check the connections in the rear of your head unit, and make sure the ground wire is securely attached to both the head unit and the chassis of your car (an inexpensive multimeter will suffice to check the ground connections).

    Disconnect and reconnect the wire harnesses. Corrosion forms on these eventually and these motions should cut through it.

    If all else fails, replace it. I put in an aftermarket (as the factory unit is very expensive), and I haven't missed the tape player (which I did get as an add-on option). However, I did put in a unit that offers a front AUX input jack, so I can plug in my iPod. :)
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    It could be a bad sensor, since the motor seems like it still works.

    I'd also check to see if the drive mechanism may have gotten misaligned or any components may have gotten loose or worn.

    In my '89 323LX, the manual sunroof would tilt up, but not pull down and retract. Turns out the main drive gear was loose and wasn't engaging the cables enough to overcome resistance in the retract mechanisms. All I had to do was tighten a screw and it worked perfectly again. Too bad it took me 2 years to overcome my fear of popping off the rear-view mirror to get at the main drive gear. I was going to be putting it up for sale, and I figured I may as well try fixing it before showing it. Gads, I miss that car.
  • 11b33t11b33t Member Posts: 51
    Do you recommend I get the Chilton or Hayes manual to tackle this one? Took a look at what small places and components I can access but not much to see. I'm also reluctant to start pulling apart & going into the guts of the roof to sort this one out. I put up the SUV to offset gas prices & am having a blast zooming around in my Pro again (trying to remember why I took a break from driving her :confuse: ) but I'd like to be able to slide the roof back & enjoy the sun...
  • cityfishercityfisher Member Posts: 11
    I have a protege DX 2000 with 30K miles. Recently I found that acceleration was very slow, especially when I was merging onto the highway. After I drive it on highway for about 20 minutes, the check engine light came on. I read the code at autozone, it said code P1170 ( fuel/air metering). However, the light went off after driving on local way for a few miles. This happed several times. I changed all the spark plugs, but this problem remains.
    When I change the spark plug, I found that the third plug was terrible. There was some white deposit like ash all over the porcelain insulator, the wall of the plug hole and the surface of the rubber connector. I don't know what caused it. The other 3 spark plug looked fine. I am going to change the wires.
    Anyone can give me some suggestions what is the cause of the check engine light? what should I do other than changing the spark plug wires?
    Thanks.
  • 11b33t11b33t Member Posts: 51
    spark plugs
    Check out above link to get an idea about your spark plugs under normal and abnormal wear. As for the check engine light (CEL), most times the CEL denotes an emissions warning/problem. I could be as simple as replacing your air filter or as problematic as your MAF sensor/housing, O2 sensors or EGF going out. Try the simple stuff first e.g. replace air filter, one bottle of Tecron fuel system cleaner in the next tank of gas, replacing all spark plugs and wires at the same time before you lay out money at the shop. Good luck...
  • headlockheadlock Member Posts: 1
    I started my car while I had a air compressor plugged into the cigarette lighter, now the CD/Radio and the lighter are not working. I know that its probably a fuse, but I've checked them all out and I can't figure out what the problem is. Does anyone know which fuse is responsible for that part of the car? I'd look in my owner's manual but it was stolen on Christmas Eve when somebody broke into my car at work. Any help, suggestions or positive thoughts are much appreciated.
  • cityfishercityfisher Member Posts: 11
    I don't understand why the CEL comes on when driving on high way, but goes off and never comes back when driving on local way.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    For many of you reporting problems with your Proteges, there is a fantastic site that you can access the official service manual for your car via post 856 in the Edmunds forum for Mazda Protege5 Owners : Problems & Solutions.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Great Site. Thanks for posting it.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Yes, it was a real find. Actually, Joe, the credit should go to 02pro5 I just made reference to his/her posting.

    Idea: wouldn't it be great if every car had the option for an electronic as well as printed manual? Imagine your Nav screen or your laptop walking you through a repair.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    IMO, they're about the same. I've purchased or referenced both.

    Motor is better, but I don't usually find them in stores. I stumbled across them in the local public library. They don't have the latest editions, but maybe one before. For most of us, that works. :)

    Before you buy, check to see if your local public library carries them. You can then compare them side-by-side before you decide which is better for you.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    at http://protege5.ugly.net/ is a very great "find". Among all the rest, one can find all the recommended engine, body and wheel torques ---- why it's so difficult to find that sort of info on the Internet has always been a mystery to me.
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    same problem with my '99 es. I think it's an intermittent connection in the display. I replaced my cd receiver with an alpine.
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    my '99 es lean mixture code was caused by a leaking intake manifold gasket.
  • cityfishercityfisher Member Posts: 11
    I have a protege 2000 DX. Recently I found the car had s big hesitation during acceleration. Right after I shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear or 2nd to 3rd gear, I feel a big loss of power, the car accelerates very slowly until the speed goes up several MPH, then accelerates much faster. After I shift to a higher gear, this phenomon happens again.
    When I start the car in the morning, everything is fine. After driving several miles. the hesitation starts.
    I searched this forum and found in message 31 and 32, someone were talking about a similar symptom. they cited a "protege 4 thread, post 300". How can I found that post? Please help me. Thanks!
  • mazdaes99mazdaes99 Member Posts: 1
    How did you fix the problem ? would you mind to share ..

    mine is a Mazda Protege 99 with 52K on it ...:) I am getting a strange sound
    (not periodic) between 40-50 miles ..never heard/noticed on high speeds

    i had taken it to the dealer and they test drived it for 7 miles but they couldnt reproduce the problem ..:( ..

    1)when pumping the gas pedal .
    2)Occurs more on bumps or Turns or UpHill Driving
    3)it goes away anytime I apply brakes.

    any thoughts on it ????
  • gew95001gew95001 Member Posts: 2
    I have a strong feeling that my water pump is going in my 1995 protege. I hear a ringing sound sometimes and have just started smelling burnt coolant. How difficult is it to replace the water pump myself? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • usnldousnldo Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. It was the disk in the actual steering wheel. It went off on me at 4am when it was 20 degrees outside. The horn needed to be replaced and the dealership did it in less than a day. That was seven years ago and no problem since.
  • mazcarmazcar Member Posts: 7
    hi all, :D
    the problem of low revs on my 96' pro has almost vanished after i switched to premium grade chevron fuel !!
    i have put in a couple of tank fulls till now & the problem has significantly reduced, though not completely solved.
    i will go ahead and change the plug wires too, will give the feed back then.
    thanks guys,
    amit
  • inselinsel Member Posts: 2
    Hello All,

    I have 01 Protege and the audio system failed second time, and this time it is not under warranty. I wonder if it's a known issue and if I have options.

    While not moving and engine was running I inserted a CD and I got no sound. The radio looks like working but no sound, and the CD is stuck there.

    The same problem happened two years ago and the dealer changed the whole system. I think it will cost much considering I lost my job two weeks ago.

    Do I have other options; fixing, other brands etc?

    Thanks,

    B.Insel
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