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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mazda5_canmazda5_can Member Posts: 6
    just to upadte ... check engine light came on after day or two, I took it to the dealership and they ran diagonistic.. it came out EGR needed to replaced... got it done 3 days ago....so far all looks good.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    There seem to be quite a few people reporting EGR failures both on the Protege and Protege5 boards. Personally, I had mine replaced in June and a colleague at work had hers done earlier.

    Is there some kind of preventative service that could be done to prevent these types of failure? For example, would annual cleaning of the throttle body help in this regard?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    I seem to avoid the recurring clogged EGR valve CEL when I use Shell gas. They claim to use more detergent in their gas than most others. It seems to work for me.

    You could also put in fuel injector cleaner or some other fuel additive that adds detergents.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    You could also put in fuel injector cleaner or some other fuel additive that adds detergents.

    Have you used these in your vehicles? I've heard that they have a very limited cleaning effect.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    But I've not used any with our newer cars ('99 ProLX and '03 P5).

    I can't say that I really noticed much difference with the 323LX. I think using good-quality gas probably works better because it's always in your tank, unlike the additive products, which I didn't put in with every tankful. I think it works out to be cheaper too.
  • shadowray1shadowray1 Member Posts: 2
    The car drives and accellerates fine. Once i reached a speed around 40-65 and slightly let off the gas pedal the car starts to hesitate, if I push down on the pedal it stops, if I pull my foot off the pedal completly it stops. It only does it when I let off the pedal slightly, and at driving speeds. It doesn;t happen at low speeds, or when accelerating, or when letting off the pedal completly. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. The car drives fine under accelaration or when I let off the pedal completely..Any help,,,please??? Ray
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    What codes come up in the diagnostic?
  • shadowray1shadowray1 Member Posts: 2
    No codes come up...any suggestions??
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    It not just the Protege that can have problems with a malfunctioning EGR system. A quick search showed all types of vehicles from many different makes with the same dilemma.

    Many people just replace the gunked up EGR valve and wire brush the port opening. This is what I did. My valve was only $78 for the '95 Protege (Borg Warner) and replacement was quite easy.

    You can also clean out the black carbon in the valve with carb cleaner. Many people do this, especially if the new valve is expensive.

    You are also supposed to clean out carbon build-up in the ports that connect to the EGR valve. This probably varies by engine with regards to the susceptibility of port clogging. So far (160k-200K), my Protege seems to do fine with just the new EGR valve and no chemical port cleaning.

    Here is one auto service company that advertises a chemical cleaning after removing the valve:

    http://www.10mostwantedcarkillers.com/mostwanted/fuel-air.html

    A Chevy dealer online lists EGR port cleaning at $180.00. Too steep for my old car!

    Cleaning the carbon build-up off the throttle plate is good preventative maintenance. I try to do it with air filter changes. That said, I don't think doing this service will stop exhaust gas carbon build-up in the EGR system.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Many thanks for your suggestions and guidance, Joe.
  • zoom zoom kingzoom zoom king Member Posts: 26
    I TOOK THE BATTERY OF MY CAR AND PUT IT BACK ON (ONLY FOR 30 SEC) AND TURN THE CAR ON AND IT WONT START ( NO CLICK) WHEN I STOP CRANKING IT, THE CAR CLICKS WHENEVER I TURN ON ANYTHING ELECTRICAL.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I feel my '95 Protege is a good car in most regards, except for the tires.

    The original set did fine for 55K miles. The next two sets of mid to upper level Bridgestones (Turanza and BT-70s ) each lasted about 50-60K miles before some sort of failure (sidewall or very uneven wear). The treadwear warranties for the two sets were lifetime and 70K.

    Being frustated with $70 tires not lasting nearly as long as promised, I went with the low end LeMans 40K tires two years (28K miles) ago. So I am in the shop today for a rotation and they tell me the back tires are not in that great of shape. They don't want to rotate and try to sell me some new tires. I passed on the new tires, drove the car home, and inspected the tires. Sure enough, the back two tires have uneven wear with more wear on the outside edge. This was never mentioned previously by the tire shop in the last 3 rotations.

    I have done all the typical stuff like an alignment when the tires were put on and rotations every 5-7K miles. The car tracks straight and there are no tire vibration issues. Any ideas on uneven wear?

    I do plan on dumping Bridgestone and going with some higher end Michelin or Goodyear tires in the next year. And even though I have a lifetime alignment agreement with this shop, I still plan on going elsewhere.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    low end LeMans 40K tires two years (28K miles) ago
    That does sound premature but you may still be able to get a couple of thousand more out of them.

    each lasted about 50-60K miles

    How long do the tires last on your Olds?
    Personally, tires that last close to 100K km (60K miles) sound pretty good. Many in the Protege5 forum have complained abut tires that have not lasted half that long. Also, the rubber in tires degrades over time no matter whether they are driven or not. So keeping a tire for beyond five years may be risky. Did the sidewall failure you mention happen on an old tire?
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    The General Tires on our Olds minivan are junk and have been since almost new. The issue here is vibration at 35-40mph. Again, all proper rotations were done, tire balancing, etc. GM didn't want to help. We are at 58K miles(5 years) on those tires and they will be replaced with better tires this fall.

    Looking through my records, it seems the most I get out of a set of tires on the Protege is 3 years or 55-57K miles. The sidewall failure occurred at 3 years. They gave me credit for the tire because it had lifetime treadwear warranty, but of course, I had to replace in twos and no credit for the other. I now have little faith in treadwear warranties.

    I know other aspects of independent suspensions can come into play with regards to uneven tire wear. Side to side play in struts was mentioned on one post I read. I previously assumed that a proper 4 wheel alignment and wheel balancing would be sufficient. Maybe this in not the case, at least with independent suspension vehicles.

    I'm considering the Michelin Harmony tires as many people say they last a long time and work well. Maybe I need to rotate my own tires every 3K miles? I have the air tools, I only need a quick floor jack to speed things up. I'm just very frustated with tire shops that want to continually sell you new tires.

    Joe
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i'd have to agree with autonomous, anything 55-60K, you are doing something right! i cannot ever remember in almost 30yr of driving doing much better.

    an 80K tire? I'd feel good getting 40-50K out of them.

    FWIW: i have a used '02 accord with harmonys. i like them. i've put maybe 25K on them (don't know how many were on them to begin with). i think they're good for another 20-25K.
  • zoom zoom kingzoom zoom king Member Posts: 26
    i was changing the belt on my 99 pro lx 106000 and i hit a piece i later discovered was the cam position sensor ... just wonder is that the reason my car wont start now or could have been something i did fixin the belt and what is the sensor anyway.
  • gmoneigmonei Member Posts: 7
    TRY USING LUCAS FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER AND UPPER CYLINDER LUBRICANT.I'VE USED THAT ONCE OR TWICE A MONTH AND I'VE ALWAYS USED 93 OCTANE GAS SINCE I BOUGHT MY 99LX NEW AND IT RUNS LIKE A CHAMP.
  • gmoneigmonei Member Posts: 7
    I HAD THAT PROBLEM AND IT WAS MY FUEL PUMP RELAY CONNECTOR WAS LOOSE.
  • varghesevarghese Member Posts: 1
    i too have the problem with the click click noise on my car when i started it up. and this is after i just got the battery replaced. The hazard lights were blinking too. The mechanic pulled out a relay and it stopped, but my dashboard lights don't come up now. I think he screwed it up when replacing the battery. Do you know what could have gone wrong? this a 98 mazda protege.
    any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • zoom zoom kingzoom zoom king Member Posts: 26
    i figured out the problem. i cleaned the battery post till they were cleaned with a stainless steel brush and its been good since then
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I had that same "clicking no start" problem about 2 years ago, which was due to the buildup around the battery posts. In my case, I've had to re-clean the posts every 4 to 6 months, otherwise the problem returns.
  • zoom zoom kingzoom zoom king Member Posts: 26
    i have a 99 pro lx and i noticed on cold rainy days my car hesitates to accelerate only sometimes and it was the weirdest thing. so one day by chance i wenr to spray my squealing belts with belt dressing and i noticed that the a/c pulley was hesitating to turn ( i think its the a/c pulley cause it cycles on and off anf moves in and out). and i could smell smoke like burning rubber i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Squealing is generally caused by slipping belts. I have noticed this on my Protege on rainy days and/or immediately after driving through good sized puddles. Have you checked the belt deflection? It is sort of a pain to do with this car.

    I put new belts on according to specs., but I think that they stretch a bit and hence the ocassional slipping. I need to get back under there and recheck. Funny, I did not have this problem with the last set of belts which were Gates. My current set is some no-name brand.

    As far as the A/C pulley, I think the A/C compressor clutch should allow it to freewheel when off and quickly engage when on. There should not be a burning rubber smell caused by belt slippage.

    My A/C compressor clutch started to fail at 7 years/150K miles. The clutch started to make a squealing noise that was very noticable. The independent shop said that they could not get a new clutch by itself, so I go a new compressor and clutch combo. Around $550 for the new parts and labor.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I'd have to agree with jrdwyer that the burning smell is unlikely a squealing belt.
    I have to re-adjust my belt every fall/winter otherwise it begins to squeal. (In the rain/cold, and whenever I have 2 or more things on at once, like the defroster, wipers, heater or A/C, etc.) Once adjusted properly it lasts about a year or so.
    I have a 2000SE 1.6L, with 500K kms, and have only replaced the belts twice ( every 3 years).
    There are 2 bolts. First loosen the bolt on the alternator.
    Then, there is an adjusting bolt, about 3 inches long.
    After you adjusted that bolt, re-tighten the alternator bolt.
    It's trial and error,so you may have to try a few times before you get it right.
  • rangerflyerrangerflyer Member Posts: 1
    My 96 Protege has had a few problems, now it seems to hesitate. I'm thinking that the fuel filter needs to be replaced. Where is the fuel filter? Just had a new Mass air flow sensor installed and plugs and air filter and lube and oil change. Hopefully you can tell me where the fuel filter is, this is a manual transmission. Any help greatly appreciated since I just spent alot of money on it already.
    Thank you :cry: :sick: :confuse:
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    The fuel filter is on driver's side of firewall about half way down. It not an easy spot to get to from above, especially the hose on the bottom of the filter. If doing it from above, you will have to take the air filter box out to gain good access.

    Hesistation can also be caused by one or more spark plug wires being bad. This is very common on the Protege. You can check the wire resistance with a voltmeter to see if one is bad before buying a new set. I went with Bosch plug wires with a lifetime warranty. Also check and/or replace the distributor cap and rotor when doing plug wires.

    The Haynes Repair Manual is pretty good for the Protege and libraries often have it.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    I got under the car today and found the alternator belt a little loose. For my '95, it is supposed to be app. 1/4 inch minimum deflection. It was about 3/8" deflection, so I tightened it. This should stop the ocasional belt squeek.

    I looked at the replacement A/C compressor (still good after 4 1/2 years) and noticed that it is a Sanden TRS090 Scroll (model #4953). Too bad it not a regular piston compressor, because Sanden makes a lot of replacement parts for this type.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Here is something I discovered that works for me: Use "valve grinding compound" ( not "belt conditioner" ) to stop belts from squealing
  • mandrill12mandrill12 Member Posts: 1
    engine whistles like a tea pot seems to lag a bit behind rpms dissapears for a moment when the throttle first opened up
  • hoghead59hoghead59 Member Posts: 1
    I've got an '03 Mazda Protege Turbo Speed and I'm trying to figure out where the Turbo Boost Sensor is. Also what the voltage on the Mass Air Flow Sensor should be.
  • nandertholnanderthol Member Posts: 2
    The wipers, heater blower, and rear defroster suddenly stopped working on my 1991 dx protege a few days ago. All fuses are fine and as far as I can tell, all the other electrical systems are in perfect working order. Anyone know where I should look next? I have to believe that there's one problem that's responsible, but I don't know what else is common to these systems.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    either fuses or some plug-in connector at the firewall or under the dash...maybe near the fusebox. Fuses can be deceptive if you just "look" at them. I replace them just in case.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Thanks for the reply on the Harmony tires. Looks like I will get these next spring. Not as many options on 175/75/13 as I would like.

    I checked further into my LeMans tires after I noticed wheel spin from takeoff on just a slightly wet incline. The tread isn't down to the indicator yet, so I was surprised about the spin on 2 year old rubber. It turns out the tires were retail new but technically 2 years old when put on my car based on the DOT marking on the sidewall. So the rubber is actually 4 years old, and hence the spin. Also, they were made in Argentina. I don't know much about the quality control standards there, but I will assume the worst.

    Now I really question whether or not this shop has ever properly done the alignments they said they did under the lifetime agreement. NOT GOING BACK.

    By the way, we just put Goodyear Assurance Triple Treads on our Olds Minivan and this is a great tire. Very quiet ride and good handling and braking (for a minivan). Too bad they don't make them for the 13 inch Protege wheel.
  • nandertholnanderthol Member Posts: 2
    I still don't know where the problem is. There's definitely juice going into the wiper relay. So it could be the relay, but that doesn't explain the blower. There's a circuit breaker for the heater on the fuse box, but it appears to be reset. I'd like to try replacing the wiper relay, but it doesn't look like this part is widely available and I don't know if I'm prepared to track one down in a junkyard since I'm not terribly optimistic that it will solve anything. I also can't find a replacement for the heater circuit breaker (which I managed to crush while trying to remove). I'll have to juryrig a fuse or another circuit breaker back in. The main hold up is dropping out the panels below the dash so I can get to the electrical, but since I only vaguely know what I'm doing I'm hesitant to dismantle everything. I would like to run some juice to the wiper motor and the blower and see if the motors are still working.

    Anyway if any of that information leads you any conclusion that you think might be helpful, let me know.

    Thanks,

    Noah
  • vparmleyvparmley Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I recently brought my 2000 Mazda Protege into Jiffy Lube for an oil change. They also cleared my fuel filter. However, now my car has problems when idling. When I come to stop signs or lights with the car in drive, it idles very slowly, almost to the point of stalling. (The same thing happens when I turn my car on after it's been sitting for only a few minutes. So, it also does this in park when the car is warm.) I've kept it in drive with this slow idle for a couple of minutes just to see if it will stall out and it hasn't. It drives fine whenever I'm applying gas and there are no other problems. Any ideas on what could be causing this? My initial guess is that perhaps Jiffy Lube obstructed the fuel line in some way?

    Thanks!
  • purecitruspurecitrus Member Posts: 5
    I have had a similar problem, it could be an airflow problem. You can check your airflow hose to see if there is a hole in it or your air flow sensor may need to be cleaned or replaced.
  • fuelinjectedfuelinjected Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get notice of a Mazda recall for this problem with loose throttle screws? I just paid $850 for the dealer to install a whole new intake manifold, which they said was needed to cure the problem correctly. I had one screw banging around in the cylinder, and two waiting inside the manifold to drop down too. The dealer said there was no recall or warranty. I have 66,000 miles on a 2003 Protege 5.
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
  • zoom zoom kingzoom zoom king Member Posts: 26
    I have a 99 pro lx and all of a sudden out of the blue the belts made an annoying sound( only in cold or rain) it continued for a couple hundred feet and went away after about 30 sec. keeping in mind it it only happens in these conditions i thought it was water getting in under the car. i took the car to place where i got the belts replace and the guy said i had a leak of some fluid, because there was an oily residue on the belts. he figured it wasnt from the engine because it was only on the outside belt and all my fluids were full so he just cleaned the belts, the sound stopped, and said watch my fluids. now the sound is back after a week and i was wondering if anyone could tell me what the problem is.
  • lazonavlazonav Member Posts: 3
    If the belts are squeeking though, they didn't tighten them properly. it usually takes 2 people to tighten up the belts

    I know it did on my car.

    The squeeking noise could be if your car is an automatic check the power steering fluid.

    This could squeal as well.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sometimes old belts will do this. If you can see the belts, look for a shiny glaze on the inside of the belt or for hairline cracks on the inside of the belt. As for the residue, that could just be normal road grime or "weepage". If these are original belts, they are overdue for a change, and probably your radiator hoses too while you're at it.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    The Trico web site says that 19" and 21" Winter Blades are available, but I have never found them anywhere I have looked.

    However, to my surprise, I discovered that 18" and 20" Trico Winter Blades are almost exactly the same length as the Protege OEM 19" and 21" summer blades!
  • mmcivermmciver Member Posts: 5
    I originally posted this over on the P5 forums, but since it SHOULD be the same physical setup (as far as I know) with the normal Protege, I am posting it again here. Still looking for advice.
    ------------------------------------------------------------

    I have a 2002 P5, and last winter (in Maryland), during a standard fill up sometime in December '05, I could only pump about half of a gallon of gas at a time before it would back-fill and overflow. Between each half gallon, I had to wait about 10-15 seconds to let that gallon settle. It wasn't a full tank issue, because I could keep doing this up to the full 10-11 gallons I was down.

    This problem continued every single fillup until I drove the car to Florida on a trip for the holidays. In southern Virginia the thermistat broke and stuck close. I limped the car to a mechanic who repaired that problem and the gas fillup problem disappeared as well, though the mechanic said he didn't touch anything else other than the coolant system.

    It remained gone for about 2 weeks upon return to Maryland, then it dumped snow one day and the problem came back. This time it didn't go away until late March when it warmed back up again.

    During this time, I took it to 2 different mechanics I trust, one who disassembled the entire fuel tank and filler components and didn't find a problem. Everything was lubricated fine and free from damage or defect. The second mechanic put a camera down the filler tube, trying to see if there was any issue that way, and could not detect anything wrong.

    Now I have moved to Rhode Island, and it first snowed up here yesterday, and today the problem returned. Half a tank at a time.

    This is really frustrating me, and wouldn't be so bad if it only happened in warm weather. The cold and the moisture HAVE to have something to do with it (freezing something in place?), but I can't figure out what or why, or how to fix it.

    Any help anyone can give is much appreciated.
    ------------------------------------------------------------

    I then got this post in response:
    "Sounds like the charcoal evaporator canister. I remember my old Saab had that problem. Gets fuel soaked. I’m assuming your mechanics have checked that."

    But still looking for further information, as well as anyone with experience dealing with repair/replacement/drainage for the carbon cannister.
  • adam0969adam0969 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: hello,this is my first time posting here,so i apologize if this is long or confusing.i am car stupid,so bear with me..I recently got a 2000 protege lx from my brother who was deployed to south korea...it was running fine at 1st,but now its giving me problems...it idles right at in between the 0 and 1 rpms gauge...now its only getting like 20 miles to the gallon and its having a hard time picking up speed...when i go up bridges,i basically have to floor it to get up them and even then i lose speed going up the bridge..now its starting to pull coming out of 1st gear...i went to autozone and they hooked it up to the machine and it came back that the mass air flow sensor was intaking too much air and the next code said it was taking in not enough...i also got a code about the intake air temperature sensor and a code saying cylinder 1 misfire..i had a mechanic friend check it out and he said the mass air flow sensor was fine,he checked the voltage and its putting out a little more voltage than it should...he says it could be the computer in the car messing up,but he's kind of stumped...anyone have this problem before or have any input on this would be greatly appreciated...he can fix it if i can give him something to work with...i don't have alot of money to put it in the shop...thanks for any help..i don't have internet access but i can check email on my cell so if anyone has any ideas email me at adam0969@yahoo.com please..thanks
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Check the rubber air intake hose for any small cracks. Check the spark plugs. Check the plug wires for abrasion damage and use a multi-meter to check the wires' resistance. These are common problem areas and will produce symptoms similar to what you describe. I believe you have the distributor-less ignition, so you might want to have the coil packs checked too.
  • dollabilldollabill Member Posts: 1
    I encountered the same brake problem as ayip, msg # 2933 did. I changed brake pads, rotors, and calipers on my 92 Protege and now it's as if I practically have none. My fluid level is fine but the brake pedal travels almost to the floor. Does anyone have a solution?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    when your pedal travels to the floor, i think that's a sign you have air in the lines. did you bleed the lines? when's the last time the fluid was flushed/drained/changed?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Check the vacuum line from that goes to the back of the throttle body; it's black rubber, about 3/8in in outside diameter. It came loose on my '99 LX w/ 1.6L engine and resulted in loss of power, rough running etc. The symptoms were quite similar to what my car had when the MAS went bad (replaced under recall - you might want to check if that part has been replaced yet on your car).

    It came loose a couple of times, so I now use a nylon cable tie to hold it in place. I haven't had a problem with it since.
  • ashpatilashpatil Member Posts: 2
    I Not sure if this is the right forum to post this message. but I will post it anyways, I have a Mazda Protege '95 model and having problems, the timing belt is not good and now there is a bad queaking sound coming from the engine and the automatic transmission is not responding no matter what gear I put it in, right now the car is stalled. Once stalled, if we switch off the engine and restart it after 5-10 mins all works fine, I can even drive for the next 100-200 meters, untill the queaking sounds starts and the engine stalls.
    Does any one has an idea if there is any link between the timing belt and the working of the automatic transmission.
    Any reply is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks.
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