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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • morgancomorganco Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Mazda Protege DX (1.5) that about a week ago started to have some issues with the rear suspension. When I am making a left turn like say off on an exit my right rear wheel feels like its swaying and sometimes depending on my speed feels like im going to lose control. Not to mention when I hit a manhole at any speed or any size bump what so ever I get a loud noise/loud rattling coming from the right rear strut. I pulled the tire off yesterday and just kind of felt around to see if anything felt loose, and everything feels pretty tight. I inspected the struts and thr rubber around the coil over springs is pretty much all gone. I found out that the car never had a sway bar from the factory so i was hoping it was just the end links. I know there is an array of issues that have to do with the rear suspension on these cars as im told. Does anyone have any ideas for me to explore, please help! Thank You!

  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I have the same model car. So I assume the tire itself is fine and no tread separation or internal belt defects? Next, has the spring part of the strut cracked? This is not common, but springs can break. Is the shock absorber part of the strut still good, i.e. it properly dampens the rebound of the spring when you go over a bump or press down on the corner of the car? If this shock fails, the common symptom is leaking fluid and the car will bounce up and down for some time after going over bumps. Has the suspension support bearing failed? This is the part the connects the piston of the strut to the frame of the car at the top. Are the nuts that secure the strut to the car tight? These are just some of the major things to look for in diagnosis.

    I replaced all the struts at around 150K miles on my car. I reused the suspension supports and rubber spring seats. So far so good at 233K miles. This job was only moderately difficult.

    The Haynes repair manual has very good diagrams and instructions for DIY repair. Also, replacement struts can be purchased pre-assembled with a new spring, so spring compressors are not even needed if one is worried about that. I used the free loaner spring compressors from a local parts store when I did mine and followed all instructions and had no problems.
  • henzhenz Posts: 3
    Greetings! I have a 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0. My valve cover gasket needs replaced. I'm a do it yourself guy. Is it an an easy (relative) job? Any advice will be great. Thanx for your time. Jim
  • morgancomorganco Posts: 2
    So I ended up rotating the tires earlier today and this is the weirdest things but it does not sway, wobble, or shake as much on the highway (60mph+). I ended up taking it to big-o and the guy told me it was for sure my strut. So I'm going to have to replace the right rear strut. Before I begin this job im hoping you guys can help me out with a few things:

    1- Where can I find a pre-assembeled strut?
    2- While I'm under there, what are some low cost but important/effective things I can replace while I have it torn apart? I have the chiltons but it's not too informative on replacements for this job.

    Thank you in advance. I just today started hearing that wonderful click click noise that we all love to hear from the right cv so I'll be asking for some help when I get ready to change that next week.
  • kap64kap64 Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 2000 Mazda Protege LX with 38k miles on it and a 1.4L engine. The car starts fine in the morning to go to work and starts fine in the afternoon to go home from work. If I get home and change clothes, hop in the car to go somewhere, it won't start, turns over like it's out of gas, sometimes sputters and lopes before it just stops firing. It seems to only do this in the afternoon, specifically between 3pm and 5pm, never after dark or in the morning. I can drive all day long as long as I don't cut off the engine. After sitting for about fifteen to thirty minutes, it will start like nothing ever happened. So far, it only does it once per day. After I get it started in the afternoon, I can seem to go anywhere, stop as many times as needed, and it keeps starting every time. It seems to be getting more frequent as the weather warms, never did it in January or February, but so far has done it every time I try to start it when the temp is around 80 or higher. I get no engine light, temp gauge is normal. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • bluebird12bluebird12 Posts: 3
    In my Mazda protege 1977, my directional lights don't work, if somebody can help how to check them, and where can I finda a Diagram, where is the fuse, I have fuses under the hood, and under the dash, but the only fuse with name is the emergency light.

    Thank you
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited May 2012
    In my Mazda protege 1977, my directional lights don't work
    I did not think the Mazda Protege existed in 1977. Do you mean 1997? If so, you may want to check your local library to see if they have a copy of Chilton's repair manual for Mazdas.
  • jdj2jdj2 Posts: 1
    I have was having the exact same problem for about 5 months. I could not get any answers from my mechanic as to what might be the cause, finally through a painstaking process of elimination my father figured out the cause was my crankshaft position sensor. We purchased a new one for around $70.00. Installation was very simple and I have not had any problems since with my car not starting.
  • dek416dek416 Posts: 1
    Hi. I am also having the same problem with my 2000 mazda protege lx, approx 37,000 miles and has been at my mechanic and now another mechanic over the past few months and they are telling me that they cannot do anything (repairs) on the car because there is no signs of anything wrong with it. I know that there is something up with the car. Can you tell me how you and your father were able to figure out that it was the crankshaft positon sensor? My dh and I are not mechanically equipped and don't have money to throw around unnecessarily on car parts. We just had the starter changed when this all happened in April when the weather here in NY started to get warmer. At one point the car wouldn't start after 4 tries and then it started fine after 20 minutes. We had autozone check out the batter, alternator, etc and all was fine. We do not have a check engine light on.
  • Hey all, I'm new here and just thanking in advance. There's a lot of good info here. My protege will stall when driving then "buck" and run fine but it continues to get worse. I cleaned both sides of all multiconnectors and drew a blank as I was thinking this thing is just cutting out then starts to run again so I looked for intermittants in the electrical system.. no luck there. So I'll start with cleaning and checking the erg system. thx,jack
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    So I'll start with cleaning and checking the erg system
    Good idea. The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recycling) mechanism is a known issue with Proteges. Hope this solves it for you.
  • Is there a diagram HERE for the vacumn line layout? There's no label under the hood. Also is that the IAC system mounted on the bottom side of the TB? (2 antifreeze filled hoses and control wire plug.) Last question...Do I need to remove TB to get to the EGR value? I'm having a hard time locating it. this car was wrecked at some point but did run well for the last two years my friend has owned it.
    2000 Protege 1.8 DOHC 5 speed manual.
    ps does that TB require a new gasket when removed?
  • correction.:) this protege dx has a 1.6 in it. I did front brakes and had to get the ones for a 1.8 to match what was in it. fun eh?
  • i had the same problem with my 98, it ended up being a dry rotted vacuum line forgive me for my lack of knowledge but my father inlaw said the line went to the brake if that helps any. i do know that we replaced it and the vibrating stopped.
  • Back again. I cleaned the egr valve. Made a new gasket. Cleaned entire TB and all assosiated vacumn hoses. No cracks. repaced TB gasket too. The engine light went out then reoccured after about 20 miles. Then the motor would lose speed from about 55mph down to approx 40 mph then resume it's speed till about 55-60.. this continued till I got home. It seems like a fuel delivery problem. There is a canister shaped item mounted on the firewall passenger side. It has ONE steel line connected to the "tank" side and one vacumn hose on the other side...running to a sensor mounted on the TB. Both connections are on the top of it... Can anyone help me Identify this item?? It's obviously part of the fuel system... thanks.
    ps it does seem to idle a little high after warm up..
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    The part you are referring to is most likely the charcoal canister. It is part of the evaporative emissions control system and usually doesn't fail. Here is a good explanation:

    Are the spark plug wires O.K.? I had engine hesitation at 45-50 M.P.H. and it was a bad plug wire.

    Have you changed the fuel filter? I've not had any fuel related issues (pump, fuel pressure regulator, etc.) on my '95 Protege, so I'm not able to give much advice in this area.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    edited August 2012
    I just replaced my '95 Mazda Protege Muffler for the second time since I purchased the car new. The original muffler lasted 10 years before the weld failed at the flange connecting the muffler to the resonator pipe.

    The second muffler was a Bosal high end model and it only lasted 7 years. It failed internally and a big hole developed in the bottom of the muffler body. I thought this part was lifetime warranty, but I didn't keep the warranty documentation (have receipt) from the online purchase. The seller, although still in business, no longer sells mufflers and had changed computers, etc. They said to check with Bosal. Bosal didn't respond to my email request for warranty replacement, so no more Bosal parts for this DIY mechanic.

    I had a 20% off coupon and bought a new Walker high end muffler at a local Pep Boys store with lifetime warranty. This muffler is actually made in the USA (unlike Bosal- made in Mexico) and it appears to be good quality. I hope to get 10 years out of it!

    Changing the muffler on this car is pretty easy with jack stands. Just back the car up onto the stands. Use some rust remover on the nuts and bolts' threads. Use some grease on the metal support arms/hangers to easily remove the muffler from the rubber grommets. Piece of cake. One hour or less to complete.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    That should be ramps, not jack stands, that I used to replace the muffler.
  • Hey, I have a 1999 Mazda Protege and I have the same problem of the console/instrument lights will not come on. How did you fix the problem. on mine, the dimmer does lights on the speedometer or the A/C panel. I have checked all the fuzes. I am curious to how you fixed yours??
  • Hello, my 1999 Mazda Protege has this same problem with the console/instrument lights not coming on at all. How did you fix this other car? I have checked the fuzes and none are blown. Interestingly enough, the electric mirrors do not work either. On the fuze sheet in the owners manual, it does not say which fuzes control either one. Ideas??
  • Hey, I have had the same problem you are speaking of with the console/Instrument lights. How did you fix the above problem?? I have checked all the fuzes as well with no luck. Looking for clues?
  • i had the same problem with my 1999 protege thought it was in the transmission took it to a shop. all it needed was a new battery it was no longer puttin out the proper voltage for it to run properly. it would lose power especially up hill the pcm was not giving enough voltage. was such an easy fix thought i was gonna have to have my transmission rebuilt. runs fine now
  • Went to inspection and failed. Code said needed new catalytic converter (run by Mazda mechanic and Autozone) Bought through a dealer who replaced. Before I go on, car ran FINE before cat was replaced. Drove car from dealer after cat was replaced to work, maybe 10 miles, ran fine. After work, drove home and started to sputter. Next day, had xmas shopping to do and the sputtering started again. When I got home it was dark out, a pipe from the cat was GLOWING RED (got picture since it was night). Now when running, still sputtering. Another test was run and code said it was a misfire. Took back to dealer who fixed and they said it was EGR valve. This was replaced ran fine from dealer to work and then on way home started the sputtering again. How can a car's engine that worked fine before the cat was replaced start having all these problems after the cat was replaced. $1700 and still not working right. Any help would be appreciated.
  • niosamaniosama Posts: 1
    edited April 2013
    The 2000 protege had an ignition coil recall. You should check with the dealer to confirm it has been replaced.
  • zachalzachal Posts: 1
    Hi Folks,

    I have two independently broken items and need help. I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX. Here goes:

    1. This is the third horn in the last three cars I've owned that has malfunctioned. With this one, I push on the horn button and here a clicking sound from underneath the glove compartment. I tried to get a sense if there was a shorted relay or something, but couldn't figure it out. It's one to one: one push on the button, one clicking sound. Thoughts?

    2. A couple years ago after a wet snow I turned on the wipers and "snap!", off went the driver's side blade. Turns out I did some other kind of damage b/c ever since replacing the blade it goes slightly past the edge of the windshield and falls off the edge of the car. Sometimes it goes so far as to fall off and catch on the left side of the car. Otherwise it is fully functional. Are there any ways to adjust the distance the mechanism travels?

  • I have a 1993 protege that started rite up. It was sitting for a few months I replaced the battery and now its not getting any power no dome light nothing I replaced the con">nections to both pos and neg termals but still nothing does anyone know what else it could be
  • tim220tim220 Posts: 1
    have head lights, battery is good - no power to the ignition, starter, windows, or radio
  • Turning the ignition key results in nothing. No lights on the dash, no clicks or other noises in the starting system. Battery is good (12.65 volts), but I tried to jump start it anyway with no luck. Fuses all look good under the hood and there's power into the fuse box. Could it be a relay? Ignition switch? Is the ignition switch in the key cylinder or is it separate and connected by a rod like in Fords and GMs?
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