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Comments
As for the brakes... I had to have mine replaced at 25,000 miles. The dealer wanted about the same amount, but I went to Midas instead and saved about $150. However, now I really wish I paid the extra money and had the dealership replace the pads (and turn the rotors). Before the replacement, the front brakes never squealed. Now, they constantly squeal whenever the brakes are applied. Very annoying and quite embarassing!!! BTW, I have a '99 ES.
or if you are fairly technically inclined, order the Service manual and do it yourself..
The noise only comes when going straight (I mean straight line) NOT in turns at all. As for the brakes, they are very smooth after replacement and so far no squaking noise as of yet.
When did you guys started hearing squaking noises from the brakes of your car after MIDAS brake job.
FYI - Mazda brake pads cost $90 for both front side and You can only have them installed by mom and pop shops as MIDAS and Goodyear Gemini would not install them for you.
Does anyone know how much does the service manual cost for the 99 Protege. If it is reasonable enough Price wise then I would like to do a lot of things my self whatever I can?
But the more I can save, the better...
a broken or chipped component within the bearing(rivet,ball,roller) can cause a ticking noise
Is there a way for me to check the bearing myself?
I hate to take it to the dealer he is going to charge $60 for the diagnostics only.
I will wait for your reply.
THANKS!
Rotate it freely and try to locate the sound.
If it comes from within the Hub/rotor assembly and not the calipers, it could very well be the bearings.
Last night, I was going to go cruising with my girlfriend and the moon roof open. to my dismay when I turned the lights on... the dash lights didn't come on. I couldn't see my gauges or anything.
headlights worked. tail lights did NOT. and if I left the lights on when I left the car. there was no warning tone.
I was going to take it to the dealership this morning to have it looked at but.. everything works today! very strange. I didn't mess with anything. anyone have any similar experiences or any ideas on what could be wrong?
Has anyone had any similar experience? We are taking the car in on Friday to have them look at it, so I'll give an update then.
As a side note, after a few months of owning our Protege, we noticed that if we accelerate more than just gently, the car (seems to be the engine) makes a sort of crackling noise. It is not loud, but to a conscientious owner like myself it is noticeable and doesn't sound like a healthy engine. Because of this noise, I'm afraid to accelerate hard (like when getting onto the freeway.) When we had our 30K maintenance done I had the dealer check it out. They hooked it up to their computer and said it doesn't ping. Anyhow, on Friday I'm going to have that checked out too. We have tried: several tanks of 89 octane gas and a bottle of Techron, but the noise is still there.
I was surprised to see that some of you had to replace front brakes so early. I have a 99 Protege ES 5-speed with 44,000 miles on it. I still have the original brake pads, front and rear. I expect the brakes to last at least a bit longer. I'm not that easy on brakes either. I wonder if having an automatic vs a 5-speed would have an effect on the brakes?
Dash Lights:
I've never experienced that problem in my Protege, but it could be a loose fuse - check to see if there is a single fuse for dash and tail lights, but I think they're different fuses. It could also be a minor wiring problem, like an exposed wire (hitting against metal or other wire). Sounds strange.
Malfunction Indicator Light:
I doubt it is the gas cap, but I could be wrong. However, my wife drives our Protege more of the time now and she has always tightened gas caps on all of her cars very loosely (she sometimes has had trouble taking them off when I've filled the tank - I twist them on tight!). We have yet to have this light come on, even with my wife not putting on the gas cap tightly. My guess is that is could be some sort of sensor (oxygen sensor?) that needs to be replaced or some other electrical problem (or a malfunctioning light itself). I have owned several Mazdas over the years and always seem to have to have an oxygen sensor replaced around the 40,000 - 60,000 mile range - not expensive normally, but free from Mazda if within warranty period.
Crackling Noise:
Since I have the 1999 ES, it has a different engine than the LX that year. However, I'd still be interested in this noise. Is it always continuous when accelerating or sometimes intermittent? Can you give an example of what this crackling sounds like (is it like mild valve clattering?) and approximately at what location it sounds like it's coming from (such as "near lower part of engine" or "toward the passenger side of the engine")? This one is very strange.
Good luck to all and zoom zoom zoom...
Mild valve clattering? Maybe if I were more of a machinehead I would be able to say, but I'm afraid I just don't have enough experience with the sounds of valves to be able to say.
Here's what I can say. From inside the car, the sounds seems to come from the lower middle of the hood compartment. The sound is intermittent in that sometimes it is worse than others. However, I can make the noise almost anytime by simply accelerating harder, and I can make it stop by easing off the accelerator. If I always accelerate lightly (and I mean pretty lightly) then the noise is absent. When I'm cruising at 70 on the freeway there is no noise, except sometimes when going up an incline. I really thought it has all the classic symptoms of pinging, but the dealer said no.
jstandefer, you're right that the Malfunction Indicator is the check engine light. However, we didn't run out of gas ;-) In accordance with the owner's manual we never let the tank get much lower then 1/4 tank. I agree with compensate in that I doubt it is the gas cap.
I'm anxious to find out what the dealer will say on Friday and to let everyone know what's up.
I have replaced oxygen sensors twice, pcv valve, fuel filter, idle control motor twice
the car just had a new idle control motor put in last week, and the engine light is back on and the car idles high.
the mechanic said the dealer told him that this is a rare failure of some sort of wax seal in the idle control motor when there is a coolant leak, and the temperature goes up. apparently there is a coolant channel in there?
idle control motor is located under the air intake hose, kinda next to the throttle body.
also the machanic says there is carbon forming with in the throttle body. sounds a little suspicious to me.
anyone else having these problems?
i have 2000 pro ex. yesterday, while driving on a newly laid road, a big patch of tar(asphalt) stuck to my tires. and, it gathered a lot of gravel from a parking lot. this was causing a hell of a wobble. thinking it was a problem with the wheels/axle (i have a poor car/auto knowledge), i was about to get it towed to the dealer. that's when i noticed it, luckily. i took out some of it using a screwdriver. but am unable to get all of it out.
can anyone let me know of a way to get the tar out from my tires.
thanks in advance,
-hari
i have 2000 pro ex. yesterday, while driving on a newly laid road, a big patch of tar(asphalt) stuck to my tires. and, it gathered a lot of gravel from a parking lot. this was causing a hell of a wobble. thinking it was a problem with the wheels/axle (i have a poor car/auto knowledge), i was about to get it towed to the dealer. that's when i noticed it, luckily. i took out some of it using a screwdriver. but am unable to get all of it out.
can anyone let me know of a way to get the tar out from my tires.
thanks in advance,
-hari
but, two questions :
1) how to mechanically remove it? do you mean i have to use a machine ?
2) can you suggest a solvent and where to get it.
thanks again,
-hari
Anyway, I tore off the bulk before driving off. When I got home, I used flat-head screwdrivers; a big one to scrape off the larger clumps and a smaller one for picking tar out of the tread. There wasn't much left afterwards, so I skipped the solvent.
Protege_fan
Usually I drive off after the initial 2000 rpm has dropped to 1500, and don't rev the engine hard until the temp gauge rise to normal operating temp, takes about 2-3 minutes. After that, zoom-zoom
Apparently, this was the cause of the "check engine" light and of the crackling noise I was hearing. The dealership confirmed that the engine was pinging.
I picked up the car just a little while ago and it is definitely better than it was. The pinging noise is all but gone! So if anyone else has a sound like that, have them check out the air flow sensor!
Yesterday I bought a 98 Protege LX Touring Edition, the horn only worked once, now when I press the button all I hear are "clicks", where should I start looking? Thanks!
This is the only problem I've had (its hardly a problem considering my last car was a Ford Taurus!!)
What gets me is that I bought a second Protege (I had a 1999 DX model) because the first was so reliable. This one seems to be a little troublesome (alignment issues, steering wheel was installed crooked but fixed under TSB, and brake rotors warped). I am starting to think I could have got my second choice, the Jetta, and had the same or less problems with it. I still do like the car, but am just a little disappointed with it, especially since I only have 9800 miles.
BTW, was it running in fresh or recirc when it first happened?
I told ya so... shoulda gotten a 2000 ES.. *grin* only problem is an intermittent rattle coming somewhere in the dash of the driver side, which annoys the Mrs... other than that, that's it..
AllData I think does the same.
-Larry