Thanks for reply, chikoo. It is always happens, no difference. I have been accurate with maintenance schedules, and watch for proper oil level too. Dinabor
Thanks for reply, chikoo. It is always happens, no difference. I have been accurate with maintenance schedules, and watch for proper oil level too. Dinabor
Thanks, chikoo. Have you used it before? I checked this web site. Not sure, I fully understand posted there instructions "Directions For Use: For normal applications, add 1 ounce per quart of ATF to the total transmission capacity ..."
What is the procedure? Just figure how many "quarts" is the capacity of the transmission box in my Protege, and measure number of "ounces" per that, and pour that amount to the transmission's fluid receptacle? Is there any extra tricks here? Sorry, I might sound dumb, I have never done this stuff before. Thank you.
"What is the procedure? Just figure how many "quarts" is the capacity of the transmission box in my Protege, and measure number of "ounces" per that, and pour that amount to the transmission's fluid receptacle? "
I think you basically summed it up. Just don't add too much.
This happened to my '89 323 with AT too. The dealer service dept adjusted the "bands" in the AT. That took care of the hard shifts (although the car now shakes more while idling in D at red lights).
I picked up my car yesterday. Tech stated shift solenoid malfunction, had to replace transmission. First one they replaced on that new of a protege. Also replaced brake pads, stated they would cover under warranty.I Questioned why brakes would have to be replaced at 14k miles, tech stated not uncommon, due to weight of car, etc, etc..I thought that was odd, due to the fact I don't drive the car hard that would put any unnecessory wear on the brakes.
Transmission started to act up on the way home, Drove car on interstate today, having same problems before new transmission, erratic shifting, overdrive light flashing and check engine light on. Taking back tommorrow
Does anyone out there have any ideas on the problem. I really like this car, but I'm starting to think, whether I should keep it or try to get rid of it.
I purchased the car 8-01. Do I have any legal leg to stand on re: lemon laws?
You'd have to check your State's particular lemon law, as I believe they vary from State to State. Also, check www.nhtsa.dot.gov for any sort of TSB or recall....but I don't think you'll find anything. May as well check anyway though. Good luck!
you have to give the dealer 3 attempts at the same prob. In your glove box there is a book that outlines each state's lemon laws: a little white one I think.
I have a mazda protege 1994,72K miles, runs great but today after running for around 5 minutes white fumes started coming from under the hood. I drove it for some 10 more minutes like that,but the engine temperature didn't go up. On stopping I also saw some colorless odorless liquid dripping from the center of the car,probably from the radiator. I guess I have a radiator leak. On examination I found a few wet fins. Should I try any of the radiator leak plugging solutions ? The leak seems to be a fast one as I have lost a lot of coolant. Should I show it to a dealer or directly take it to one of those radiator repair shop ? Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks, Chikoo. I poured some 6 oz (was limited by higher mark on oil dipstick) of Lubeguard to the transm. box. It is been really, really better. (Knocking on the wood). I am thinking now to add the Lubeguard medicine for engine too. Just in case... Thank you, folks. dinabor
I'd try to find the area of the leak first. A fluorescent light works well at making the dye in most engine coolants glow. You may need to wash off the outside of your radiator with some distilled water first.
Keep plenty of distilled water/coolant on hand. For ease of use, you might want to pre-mix it and keep it in your trunk.
If it's a big leak, then those quick-fix solutions won't be much help. They're primarily for small pin-hole type leaks. They gunk up your radiator anyway, so they're a temporary solution at best.
Since it's a '94, you can probably go after-market. Mazda may no longer make the stock unit, but feel free to check. All it takes is a phone call. Just make sure that you can get stop-cocks (the drain plug) for it easily. These seem to be made from plastic and they break easily.
I took my car to the dealer today and had them run a diagnostic on the coolant system. They found the leak in between the upper tank(plastic) and the middle tank(fins).If they are quoting 512 bucks for a new radiator installed.Does it really cost so much? The few websites I checked had the radiator price at around 110 dollars. I am inclined towards giving the radiator quick fix solutions a shot.
That's what it cost to replace the one in my '89 323 with an aftermarket (non-Mazda) radiator. The parts and fluids themselves cost about $130. The remainder was labor. This was about 3-4 years ago.
You may not need a new radiator. Mine was leaking in the cooling (finned) section, so wasn't easily fixed. If the leak's in an accessible line, you might be able to weld it shut.
Bought a new 2001 es w/moonroof yesterday. (4/27) During pre-buy test drive, did not notice excessive wind noise. Going home, wind was blowing 20 - 25 mph. When I got to 70 mph and driving into the wind, a loud wind noise like a high note on a flute or blowing across a coke bottle started happening. This was not the normal rush of wind that is present going 70. Did not notice at 60 to 65. Since the wind blows like that half the time here, that's going to be hard to live with. Can't really isolate the area. Seems to be the upper windshield. Lesser possiblity to be the moon roof. All the moulding looks intact and the moonroof closes properly. It's one of those noises that's real hard to determine the source - kinda like trying locate the source of a cricket by the sound - so it could be coming from anywhere. Passenger in right, front seat couldn't tell where the source was any better than I could. Of course I'm going back to the dealer, but would like some ideas before I go. Thanks in advance for any advice. Mark
You mean to tell me that every Mazda Protege ES Sedan in the world that goes 70 mph airspeed (could be 50 mph on speedometer into a 20 mph wind) is sounding like a coke bottle symphony inside?? It drives me crazy. I would never consider a car that does this. I never saw this probem mentioned in any reviews that I read.
My 2000 ES makes the noise, although not really a coke bottle whistle, more like the sound you get when a window is open. Seems to be coming from the top of the windshield, towards the passenger side.
Kicks in at about 58 mph (sometimes lower, depending on wind speed), and doesn't seem to go away above that...even at speeds up to 80 mph.
Again, this is a replacement windshield...not sure how that factors in. Would be interested to hear from other 2000 owners before I pursue it with the dealer.
It starts around 60mph and disappears around 65mph, depending on the prevalent air speed.
However, it does not sound like an open window. That kind of noise is either a hole (or gap) or the weatherstripping sticks out more.
The noise on my '99 emanates somewhere from the top middle of the windshield. It's noticeable, but not loud. I thought Mazda redesigned the weatherstripping to address this. Maybe they just shifted the resonance range.
There's probably individual variation in the vehicles and owners, as well. Some vehicles will have more or less of this noise, some owners will be more or less likely to notice it. I only notice this noise when I don't have my stereo on and nobody's talking. With the stereo on, I can't hear it.
Every vehicle (except maybe some of those ultra-slick solar-powered race cars) makes some type of resonance noise at some air speed due to protruberances such as antennas and side mirrors or even where the sheet metal panels meet). It depends on how noticeable it is (roar, whistle etc.) and what sound-proofing steps the mfr has taken (thicker glass, more sound-absorbing materials in the roof and door panels etc.).
I noticed it in a LX2.0 right around 100mph. I wasn't worried about it at that speed, but at 70 that would piss me off. It was definitely coming from the upper winshield weatherstrip. Have your dealer re-seal the windshield and don't let them give you bull about not being able to duplicate because they cannot safely test it at that speed.
It is more of like wind blowing past a weatherstip which has some irregularity to it...just like whistling with ur fingers
I have a 99 ES and wind whistling is not observed till 85mph(max I have gone). In fact at 60-65, the wind flow is very clean without even any buffetting, let alone whistling.
In crosswinds of 20-25mph, I get lot of wind buffetting noise....who doesn't... alongwith car bieng pushed out of line
I got the car back to the dealer today. After a short wait, a body shop guy met me outside to go for a test drive. I emphasized that the whistle only occurs at 70 mph or above. He had a problem taking it up to 70 because the EPA in it's wisdom forced all of the Houston Metroplex to a 55 mph speed limit. (I live outside the area mandated by the EPA speed limit and can drive 70 at the home area). He said he could lose his job if he got a ticket. We got the service manager. He said he'd drive and we all three went whistling down the highway at 70. (More than half are ignoring the 55 limit, BTW).
They determined the noise to be a bad windshield seal. The service manager peeled it back and showed me how loose it was. I left it with them and will get it tomorrow with a new seal.
As I said before the whistle is like blowing across a coke bottle. Just a guess to the pitch but it's close to what I'd call a middle C.
Picked us the '01 ES this afternoon. As mentioned before, yesterday the service manager thought they'd have to install a new windshield seal. When the contract installer showed up at the dealership, he said all it needed was to be re-glued. He glued it down, and I got up to about 80 mph into a 20 mph wind on the way home and the whistle was gone.
As a side note, this little episode really made me realize I made the right decision in choosing a Mazda. The loaner car was a Pontiac Sunfire, and (no offense to America or Pontiac fans), but the Sunfire seems to be a really cheap car. Made my trip home seem like I was in a $40,000 car instead of the $13,600 I paid for it new.
People were great at the dealership. I thought they should have cleaned the windshield for me, though. Of course the glue and tape were cleaned up, but it was covered with dust from being outside.
I am back to a small nagging problem that I have "noticed" since the 15,000 miles. When driving around town when I come to a stop, the Auto tranny falls into the first gear with a "clunk" that can be felt and heard. It's not decreased or increased since I first heard/felt it.
Any ideas Matlb? my car is a '99 Pro ES with Auto Tranny.
when did u start getting those clunks? i "noticed" mine at around 15,000 miles. It might have been earlier, but till 15000 i never did any STOP sign roads....only I-95 to&from work.
With about 10k on the clock. They both have 30k now, I added some lubegaurd red to one, it doesn't get rid of it, but it cut down on the shudder a bit. I have thought about taking it to the dealer but all the dealers around me are A$$es and will most likely tell me it is fine. Although I like the car, I have been less than impressed with the dealer network and availability of parts.
I have been posting on the P5 board about my continuing problem with poor fuel economy (around 19-20 mpg). Somebody mentioned that a defective mass air sensor might be the culprit. I had the car in the shop once already, and since they were unable to pull any codes off the ECU they simply shrugged their shoulders. Now, today a new problem: while idling at a light my car shuddered violently and then quickly righted itself without stalling, but a minute later as I shifted into reverse, and before I hit the accelerator, the car died. I immediately restarted and drove the car for another hour without a repeat of the episode.
So, the question is, does any of this seem consistent with the air sensor, and if not what might I advise my clueless dealer to look for?
"So it looks like the remaining Daewoo Motor(not owned by GM) with still over 10 car plants worldwide is still fighting and has not given up." by jkobty
Comments
It is always happens, no difference. I have been accurate with maintenance schedules, and watch for proper oil level too.
Dinabor
http://www.lubegard.com
Excellent product.
If the problem is minor, it will be taken care of.
It is always happens, no difference. I have been accurate with maintenance schedules, and watch for proper oil level too.
Dinabor
Have you used it before?
I checked this web site. Not sure, I fully understand posted there instructions
"Directions For Use:
For normal applications, add 1 ounce per quart of ATF to the total transmission capacity ..."
What is the procedure? Just figure how many "quarts" is the capacity of the transmission box in my Protege, and measure number of "ounces" per that, and pour that amount to the transmission's fluid receptacle?
Is there any extra tricks here? Sorry, I might sound dumb, I have never done this stuff before. Thank you.
I think you basically summed it up. Just don't add too much.
Shifts better than brand new. That is all i can say.
Transmission started to act up on the way home, Drove car on interstate today, having same problems before new transmission, erratic shifting, overdrive light flashing and check engine light on. Taking back tommorrow
Does anyone out there have any ideas on the problem. I really like this car, but I'm starting to think, whether I should keep it or try to get rid of it.
I purchased the car 8-01. Do I have any legal leg to stand on re: lemon laws?
good luck
Lemon law in Ky 12k miles or 12months whichever comes first. I have 14k miles/8months on my ES.
I poured some 6 oz (was limited by higher mark on oil dipstick) of Lubeguard to the transm. box. It is been really, really better. (Knocking on the wood).
I am thinking now to add the Lubeguard medicine for engine too. Just in case...
Thank you, folks.
dinabor
Keep zooming......
Keep plenty of distilled water/coolant on hand. For ease of use, you might want to pre-mix it and keep it in your trunk.
If it's a big leak, then those quick-fix solutions won't be much help. They're primarily for small pin-hole type leaks. They gunk up your radiator anyway, so they're a temporary solution at best.
Since it's a '94, you can probably go after-market. Mazda may no longer make the stock unit, but feel free to check. All it takes is a phone call. Just make sure that you can get stop-cocks (the drain plug) for it easily. These seem to be made from plastic and they break easily.
I am inclined towards giving the radiator quick fix solutions a shot.
During pre-buy test drive, did not notice excessive wind noise.
Going home, wind was blowing 20 - 25 mph. When I got to 70 mph and driving into the wind, a loud wind noise like a high note on a flute or blowing across a coke bottle started happening. This was not the normal rush of wind that is present going 70. Did not notice at 60 to 65. Since the wind blows like that half the time here, that's going to be hard to live with.
Can't really isolate the area. Seems to be the upper windshield. Lesser possiblity to be the moon roof. All the moulding looks intact and the moonroof closes properly.
It's one of those noises that's real hard to determine the source - kinda like trying locate the source of a cricket by the sound - so it could be coming from anywhere. Passenger in right, front seat couldn't tell where the source was any better than I could.
Of course I'm going back to the dealer, but would like some ideas before I go.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mark
Kicks in at about 58 mph (sometimes lower, depending on wind speed), and doesn't seem to go away above that...even at speeds up to 80 mph.
Again, this is a replacement windshield...not sure how that factors in. Would be interested to hear from other 2000 owners before I pursue it with the dealer.
However, it does not sound like an open window. That kind of noise is either a hole (or gap) or the weatherstripping sticks out more.
The noise on my '99 emanates somewhere from the top middle of the windshield. It's noticeable, but not loud. I thought Mazda redesigned the weatherstripping to address this. Maybe they just shifted the resonance range.
There's probably individual variation in the vehicles and owners, as well. Some vehicles will have more or less of this noise, some owners will be more or less likely to notice it. I only notice this noise when I don't have my stereo on and nobody's talking. With the stereo on, I can't hear it.
Every vehicle (except maybe some of those ultra-slick solar-powered race cars) makes some type of resonance noise at some air speed due to protruberances such as antennas and side mirrors or even where the sheet metal panels meet). It depends on how noticeable it is (roar, whistle etc.) and what sound-proofing steps the mfr has taken (thicker glass, more sound-absorbing materials in the roof and door panels etc.).
Wind whistling cannot be classified as Resonance.
It is more of like wind blowing past a weatherstip which has some irregularity to it...just like whistling with ur fingers
I have a 99 ES and wind whistling is not observed till 85mph(max I have gone).
In fact at 60-65, the wind flow is very clean without even any buffetting, let alone whistling.
In crosswinds of 20-25mph, I get lot of wind buffetting noise....who doesn't... alongwith car bieng pushed out of line
I got the car back to the dealer today. After a short wait, a body shop guy met me outside to go for a test drive. I emphasized that the whistle only occurs at 70 mph or above. He had a problem taking it up to 70 because the EPA in it's wisdom forced all of the Houston Metroplex to a 55 mph speed limit. (I live outside the area mandated by the EPA speed limit and can drive 70 at the home area). He said he could lose his job if he got a ticket. We got the service manager. He said he'd drive and we all three went whistling down the highway at 70. (More than half are ignoring the 55 limit, BTW).
They determined the noise to be a bad windshield seal. The service manager peeled it back and showed me how loose it was. I left it with them and will get it tomorrow with a new seal.
As I said before the whistle is like blowing across a coke bottle. Just a guess to the pitch but it's close to what I'd call a middle C.
I'll post the results of the new seal.
Thanks to all.
Mark
:-)
--Dale
As a side note, this little episode really made me realize I made the right decision in choosing a Mazda. The loaner car was a Pontiac Sunfire, and (no offense to America or Pontiac fans), but the Sunfire seems to be a really cheap car. Made my trip home seem like I was in a $40,000 car instead of the $13,600 I paid for it new.
People were great at the dealership. I thought they should have cleaned the windshield for me, though. Of course the glue and tape were cleaned up, but it was covered with dust from being outside.
When driving around town when I come to a stop, the Auto tranny falls into the first gear with a "clunk" that can be felt and heard. It's not decreased or increased since I first heard/felt it.
Any ideas Matlb?
my car is a '99 Pro ES with Auto Tranny.
which year?
'02 LX and less than 3k miles.
So, the question is, does any of this seem consistent with the air sensor, and if not what might I advise my clueless dealer to look for?
Shudder, shudder, clunk, clunk, whistle, whistle
zoom, zoom, zoom.
by jkobty
They will give up, lol! ;-)))