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Goint to ALLDATA for TSBs will not be possible. Here's what they say:
IMPORTANT NOTICE
The American Honda Motor Company, Inc. has requested ALLDATA restrict access to Acura and Honda repair information by individual consumers. You will unfortunately not be able to register for access to Acura or Honda vehicle repair information, technical service bulletins or recalls.
We kindly request that all comments should be directed to:
American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
P. O. Box 2206
700 Van Ness Ave.
Torrance, CA 90501
Honda: 800-999-1009
Acura: 800-382-2238
Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused you.
If you watch the paper, you can also pick up your own code reader for pretty cheap these days. Then read the codes yourself and turn off the light if you want to.
Dennis
Still lists the recalls and service bulletins, but they do not have (for most) any of the detail on the TSBs. In the past, I have found scans or PDFs there.
The shame of it is, the dealers HAVE the TSBs and a lot do not fully utilize them.
True story:
A girl that used to work for us had a new Accord, this is in the days when they first started using R134a instead of R12. Her A/C did not cool enough on hot days. Several trips to the dealer resulted in "they all do that" answers. I told her to purchase a small dial thermometer with a stem. Stick it in her vent and run the A/C on full for 5 minutes. Then climb into a new car on the lot and do the same. I was betting her car would not cool nearly as much. Then we found a better idea, just went to Alldata and found the TSB about A/C problems on here EXACT year and model car. Turns out some cars in a certain VIN range (hers included) had the wrong A/C parts. Once she handed the TSB to the dealer they then were able to fix her car.
So to me it is sad than Honda and Alldata have taken this stance, and that NHTSA does not have the TSB details.
Dennis
Seems that they are both experiencing a "growl" noise from the front brakes when they are applied. It doesn't happen all of the time, but definately isn't right. Anyone else experience this, and if so, what was done to correct it?
Thanks.
Dennis
Dennis
I have a black EX V6 coupe with the "sport" package (wing spoiler, day/nite mirror, and fogs. Didn't want the NAV, and the wife put her foot down on the 17" rims. But it's still awesome! Almost went with the TSX - and although 4DR sport sedans are becoming increasingly popular, glad I didn't. I think the fogs help primarily with fog at dawn/dusk, and my nite vision isn't as good as it used to be. But a problem I ran in to like atlantabenny, was a cracked lens that showed no "impact" mark, like from a stone or pebble. An aftermarket accessories specialist here in Indianapolis said it more than likely cracked from cold rain contacting the hot lens. And the danged replacement was $140.00 plus $130.00 to install!!!! For one light!!!! I could have purchased a pair of PIAA ion-beams for around $150.00, and probably could have installed them myself. So I guess I'll look at fabricating some Lexan shields, maybe with some rubber tubing around the edges to hold them over the fogs. Hopefully that will prevent cold water or ice from actually causing the lens to crack. Overall - it's a super vehicle!
I have no warranty on it and its got 43K miles on it. NOW I read about the transmission problems in the Hondas and I'm SICK! I took out a loan to get the car and could not afford to replace a transmission in it..it runs fine and most ppl say dont worry but I am VERY worried, I cant sleep.I just got it two days ago for 13,000 and now I'm thinking if I should TRY to sell it tomorrow even if I take a lost.
Should I be worried? I'm a female and no little about cars except that I've always had old cars and finally invested in a Honda(because they run forever!)but now that I'm thinkin about it everyone who said get a Honda has much older models.Should I try to sell it and take a lost??? I should have investigated before I bought it, its my fault! I also cant afford to purchase an extended warranty, have to sale it and take a lost! IF I can sell it!
Now why, on this very critical item, won't the parts manufacturers use silicon rubber instead of the crappy standard rubber that ages and tears so easily? I can purchase a silicon oven mitt from Bed Bath & Beyond - and it is obvious that if this material can tolerate extreme temperatures and not fail, it would be the perfect material to use for CV boots. It is supple and strong.
You would think also that this would be at least an obvious niche that high performance parts suppliers would fill, if not the standard parts guys. I can buy all kinds of braided metal hoses, etc. to decorate the engine, but not a silicon CV boot?
I know the answer... It's like asking why don't the drug companies finally release a cure for herpes - because they couldn't continue selling the ultra-expensive topical treatments. But making a silicon CV boot wouldn't require FDA approval, and some smart parts company could make a mint providing this part - if they could create demand from the ignorant end-users.
[Of course, I have entirely skipped the discussion of why there's so few rear-wheel drive cars available, which would eliminate the need for CV boots and joints altogether. ]
Can someone clarify this a bit for me?
Thanks...
Every model has some recurring problem that affects it--VW had window regulator and coil problems in Jettas, Toyota had sludge issues with its V6 engines, Neons had blown head gaskets, Ford Crown Vics had the exploding gas tank. Most of the time it is something that affects a small percentage of the vehicles, but gets hyped into "all of them have this problem."
Hondas are generally pretty durable. I have had three Accords--a 1985 that got hit by a Taurus at 208k miles, a 1989 that I drove on a 2000-mile trip at 200k miles, and my current car--a 2003 with 59k miles. All have been reliable.
Change the transmission fluid every 30k miles and ***use ONLY Honda A/T fluid ***. Non-Honda fluid will cause problems. You will probably have to go to the dealer for this particular service. Other than that, follow the maintenance schedule and the car should last you another 150k miles.
What is Honda's recommendation in the owner's manual for transmission fluid replacement? Is there a problem with the transmissions that they require more frequent service...?
If there is no problem, then why would you recommend more frequent change than 100K.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If you are THAT panicked, you can sell it. you will have NO PROBLEM selling it!
But...than what? What could you buy that's less trouble than a Honda? go to any other forum and you will read tales of woe!
Relax and enjoy your car!
http://www.honda.com/index.asp?bhcp=1
Since it's a factory warranty, it's a zero cash out if it happens to you. Change the transmission oil at the factory's recommended interval, and ideally by a dealer, to cover all contingencies should you claim a warranty repair. Enjoy the car.
What is Honda's recommendation in the owner's manual for transmission fluid replacement? Is there a problem with the transmissions that they require more frequent service...?
If there is no problem, then why would you recommend more frequent change than 100K.
I don't have a 2001 manual in front of me, but I thought that 30k was what Honda was recommending (at least for "severe" driving). She seems concerned about the issue, so using the severe schedule errors on the side of caution. My 2003 manual says for severe driving to change at 60k and then every 30k. I do a lot of stop-and-go driving and I change it every 30k because I can't see why Honda would recommend a different change interval the first time than the second--it's the same fluid. Of course, I also don't understand why Honda recommends to change the oil filter at every other oil change. I bought a $22k car, but I am not going to spend $5 to change the oil filter???
After re-reading my post, it did sound like I was saying "ignore the manual on this and change at 30k"--that wasn't my intent. I meant to emphasize changing the A/T fluid on time and to use only Honda A/T fluid.
We will pull off the wheels to check first-hand to see if anything looks worn.
My brother had a '91 Accord and when he sold it after 7 years and about 77,000 miles, no suspension parts had ever been replaced nor was there any need to.
Honda Accord suspensions hold up well and you have many miles to drive before there's any need, if ever, to worry about parts replacement
Thanks
I am an owner of a 2001 Accord w/ 46,000 mi on it. I bought it used last year in August w/ 30,000 mi on it. My Check Engine Light is on just happened on Friday. Any ideas? The car is driving normally.
Also, whenever I reverse and hit the brake I hear a "Clunking" noise. This only happens in reverse. I have heard the noise for about 3 weeks now.
I am going in for my 45,000 maintenance ($315, is that a reasonable price?). Also I am due for an oil change is that included in the maintenance?
The dealership wants to charge me $99 to diagnose the "check engine" light problem.
Any help is welcomed!!
Thanks
Vee
As far as the CEL is concerned, chances are (because your car only has 46k on it) is caused by your gas cap not being properly tighten. Make sure your gas cap clicks at least three times when you're tightening it. If that's the case, the light will not go out immediately, but within a few days it should or you can reset the light by removing the (I think) # 12 or # 13 fuse - marked "clock" that's located behind the passenger's side fuse panel. Remove it for a few minutes and then replace.
-OR-
Take your car to Auto Zone (usually for free) - they'll tell you what code is causing the fault and what part needs to be replaced.
"Clunking" noises can be a number of things....but if your Accord is a DX or LX, you have drum brakes in the rear. Drum brakes adjust themselves when you back up and apply the brakes - maybe causing this clunk. Here again, it could be a number of things.
Your 45,000 mile maintenance for $315 should include the oil/filter change.
Hope this helps.
You can buy your own code reader for $99 or less, so I don't think I would pay such a high price just to have them check it. You can get a code reader with a display, but the one I use is the "Drive Right" CarChip from Davis Instruments. You have to have a USB port to use it - but it is really cool and logs all kinds of stuff in the car - and does the codes and resets the light too. One is going in any car my teenage son will drive once he gets his license
http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/carchip_products.asp
The sell/sold them at AutoZone for $99 and $139, if I recall correctly.
Dennis
I just drove the car and it is not a "clunking" noise, it is more of a rubbing.
Hi,
As far as the CEL is concerned, chances are (because your car only has 46k on it) is caused by your gas cap not being properly tighten. Make sure your gas cap clicks at least three times when you're tightening it. If that's the case, the light will not go out immediately, but within a few days it should or you can reset the light by removing the (I think) # 12 or # 13 fuse - marked "clock" that's located behind the passenger's side fuse panel. Remove it for a few minutes and then replace.
-OR-
Take your car to Auto Zone (usually for free) - they'll tell you what code is causing the fault and what part needs to be replaced.
"Clunking" noises can be a number of things....but if your Accord is a DX or LX, you have drum brakes in the rear. Drum brakes adjust themselves when you back up and apply the brakes - maybe causing this clunk. Here again, it could be a number of things.
Your 45,000 mile maintenance for $315 should include the oil/filter change.
Hope this helps.
You just saved me $100. Auto Zone does it for free, imagine I was going to pay the dealership $100 for the same service.
Imag
agree with jimex, just run by AutoZone, Advanced Auto, or one of those chain-type parts stores and they should read the code for you. I think in most states they can no longer RESET the light, but they can read the code and give you some idea of what might be wrong.
You can buy your own code reader for $99 or less, so I don't think I would pay such a high price just to have them check it. You can get a code reader with a display, but the one I use is the "Drive Right" CarChip from Davis Instruments. You have to have a USB port to use it - but it is really cool and logs all kinds of stuff in the car - and does the codes and resets the light too. One is going in any car my teenage son will drive once he gets his license Be sure you get the new USB version and not the older serial version (like I have)
http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/carchip_products.asp
The sell/sold them at AutoZone for $99 and $139, if I recall correctly.
Dennis
My SRS light turned on about a year ago (at around 35K miles). Has anybody had a similar problem? I searched the archieve but couldn't find a discussion about this topic..
Thanks,
-- salih
All of a sudden all the electrical switches on my steering wheel (stereo volume control, horn, and cruise control) stopped working. I checked all the fuses but they were ok, besides I didn't see any fuse directly controlling the electric cables going to the steering wheel. When I lock the car using the remote the brief hunk functions properly to confirm that doors are locked, but somehow the horn on the steering wheel does not work.
By any chance would anybody have an idea?
Regards,
-- salih
Dennis
Make : HONDA Model : ACCORD Year : 2000
Manufacturer : AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 02V080000 Recall Date : MAR 12, 2002
Component: AIR BAGS:FRONTAL
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 2900
Summary:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, A COMPONENT IN THE INFLATOR OF SOME PASSENGER AIR BAG MODULES WAS NOT WELDED PROPERLY.
Consequence:
AS A RESULT, THE AFFECTED AIR BAGS MAY NOT DEPLOY CORRECTLY IN A CRASH, INCREASING THE RISK OF INJURY TO A FRONT SEAT PASSENGER.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE PASSENGER AIR BAG MODULE. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN APRIL 5, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Notes:
CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Were you able to find out what is causing the SRS light to be turned on?
Thanks.
RCC8179 I need to go in for the 45,000 mile maintence so I will DEFINATELY get the transmission fluid changed(not flushed right?) thanx!!!!!!
ISELLHONDAS "relax and enjoy your car" words of wisdom!!
now that I've been driving it for a few days I love it! I made the right choice after all and got all worked up over 2% of Honda Accord tranmission defects..
I will keep checking back here cause its the little things that can save u money! like going to AutoZone to check the code on the CEL light! now I know!!! but hope mine stays OFF! lol Thanks again, appreciate it!
The handling is great at normal speeds, as expected. Howewer, the car feels frighteningly unstable at high speed. At 80mph, and certainly at 90mph, the whole car feels a bit like it is “floating.” Changing lanes or making even modest turns with the course of the road leads to weight shifts or something that makes it feel like I could spin out or otherwise lose control.
For the moment, I am keeping it below 75mph, until I can solve the problem.
A possibly related symptom: when going over a bump at 40mph or more, upon landing the car feels like it wants to twist side to side. I’ve never felt this in any other car. As if there is a strange torque, like the 4 wheels are fighting each other. Very noticeable in the steering wheel, but settles out in less than a second.
All body panels appear to have proper space between them, so there seems little evidence of a previous wreck causing a bent frame.
The car tracks straight on flat highway stretches, so alignment seems OK.
I just replaced the tires with matching, H-rated Bridgestone Potenza RE950s (P195/60R15 87H).
All suggestions are much appreciated. This car feels like it would do 135mph in a safe environment, so I can’t believe it is supposed to feel like this at 80 or 90mph.
Mike
When you said that the car felt like it wanted to twist side to side, reminds me of when I had a bad shock on my Tacoma truck. It was getting almost uncontrollable at higher speeds, and it too felt like it wanted to twist side to side. I replaced the shocks, and problem was solved.
Not sure if it could be your problem, just thought I'd mention this.
Mrbill
Thanks,
-- salih
You don't expect this many problems from Honda Accord (at least that was the impression I got when I bought the car) but I guess I should accept that 5 years is old for this car..
Anyone expeiance these issues? Broken motor mount?
"I have this problem with my 1993 honda accord wagon. In 4th gear, the torque converter will sometimes lock up, and then not. The revs are higher then normal when driving at highway speeds. Wagon has 160 000 miles."
I'm not sure if this will help you, but I had this exact problem on a '92 Mazda Protege. I took it to an independent transmission shop and the whole repair cost about $80. They replaced a mdule that screwed into the transmission.
My advice would be to talk around and find a trustworthy tranny shop and stop by to discuss the issue. Could be worth your time versus just changing out parts.