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Comments
almost certainly you have a clogged or crimped drain hose (possibly - i not sure how probable - even one that fails to exit the vehicle?).
here is a simple test to prove this assertion: run your AC, park your car with the AC on and vehicle running (of course). get out and look under the vehicle in the vicinity of the left front wheel. you should see an almost steady stream of condensate leaving the vehicle. if you do not - the AC is probably your problem.
there is no other source of water on a clear day
let me describe the noise you may be hearing when making the left turns...i recall its like running water slowly from the tap into a hot skillet. am i right?
people need to remember to periodically check their oil level when filling up the tank with gas. this is an excellent time to check thier other fluid levels but they also need to remember to clear debris (leaves, sticks, tree bark, pine straw etc) from the air intake at the bottom of the windshield to help prevent this from happening!
hope it helps.
I've read enough posts here that suggest that the interior build quality on the Accord isn't what it used to be. Sounds like you got an interior made on a good day. All I can say is that if all Hondas had this rattle like mine, Honda would be out of business. It's too bad ... I like the look of the car, it drives fine, no mechanical problems ... but I'm embarassed to drive people around in it because of the interior noise. Looks like it'll be Round 2 with the factory rep.
What are the thoughts on rustproofing or undercoating? I've used Z-bart in the past and have had good success with it. I have a 1991 Lebaron Convertible without a speck of rust on it. Should I have my Accord rustproofed or undercoated?
Thanks
D
You don't need anything of the rust-proof crap-o-la. On a modern car that junk does more harm than good.
Dennis
Sound stays constant whether your are driving or sitting in the driveway.
I have to have the car in this week to install the day/night mirror...I will have them take a look.
d
I had read all the posts, but it didn't seem like there was a definitive answer. Now in hindsight I see that you were bang on with your prognosis. I took the car into the shop last night and they blew air into the drain tube and water came gushing out, indicating some type of blockage. The sound has since subsided (granted it was only fixed last night).
You are correct that the sound was similar to water running onto a hot skillet. At first I likened it to sand shifting in a canister behind the dash, then as time went on the sound changed to more of a light squeal or hiss (much like water on a hot skillet). Weird that it only happened on left turns -- that one still baffles me.
Anyway, thank you for your posts.
it happened to me in a '94 accord, and the water ended up in the passenger footwell only on left turns. i like you remain puzzled, except i imagine the evaporator condensate drain engineered in such a way that the pan exits to the right and has higher sides on the left, so when making left turns, the water seeks a lower level exit which is on the right.
anyway when the shop blew compressed air up the drain tube - i too was quite amazed at the amount of water that came gushing out!!!
the telltale signs are that "hissing" or "water dripping onto a hot skillet" sound, water in the footwell when turning left, and water failing to exit the vehicle when you look at the under-side with the AC running and the car stopped.
if anyone lives in close proximity to pines or deciduous trees, remember to take note of the cleanliness of the cabin air intake below the windshield and windshield wipers (as seen with the hood open)... be vigilant and keep the area free of debris of any kind to lower the chances of a clogged drain.
I am getting this knocking noise when I accelerate from 20 mph - 40 mph, anyone experienced/ing this in the new accords?
The new Honda feels like a haunted ride with creeking noises coming from all the directions. Driving window, Safety belt. rear of the passenger seat and now a funny knocking noise at slow acceleration.
Any one familiar with the knocking noise?
By the way, drove Solara and I must say that it never felt that engine had any noise despite being switched on and kept on neutral.
Since this model has been around for a while I’m thinking that there should be a good amount of people that can tell me things to watch out for when purchasing and also any maintenance issues that I should be particularly attentive to.
The following website details some things to look for in this generation of Accord. Is it pretty much spot on?
http://www.samarins.com/reviews/accord.html
Have there been any recalls that I need to make sure have been performed on these two model years? Is this website pretty much a bible when it comes to finding that stuff out?
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
I did hear of Honda extending their automatic transmission warranty on some vehicles. How long would that extend for and does this include the ‘01/’02 Accord EX 4 cylinder models or was it just for the V6 models? Does it transfer to someone purchasing the car used? Anyone have a website with the run down on this warranty? I’ll admit I didn’t look too hard for that information just yet . . . :P
Let me know. Any help is appreciated!
I noticed that I can move the glass by hand a little, glass itself does not seam to be in the fix position. Also, I took the car to the dealer and complain about window vibrating and making annoying noise, dealer replaced seal gasket around the window and told me that will take care of the problem.
It did not help at all.
any idea?
thanks
Can anyone check their window?
anyone had the same problem? anyone knows why?
A friend has an Olds, and the seats look good except for one panel on the passenger side which is cracking. I suppose it's possible to get a bad piece of leather.
Mrbill
thanks
You've not indicated how old your vehicle is, nor how many miles are on your odometer. If it's quite old, it may have been improperly serviced in the past.
Your symptoms indicate to me that someone may have tightened the belt way beyond specifications, thus straining the parts to the breaking point. The specifications are in the Honda shop manual for your model year vehicle.
I haven't had much major work done on it since 60k miles, regular oil change was about it. The first time I had the issue where all the lights turned on and it died after driving a few more min, I brought it to this same mechanic that diagnoised it as the altinator bracket broke off. Yesterday I had the same issues and he again said the bracket broke at which I mentioned we went thru this less than 2yrs ago. He said he's not sure why but will look into it! Some people just said it didn't sound right, altinator dying is one thing but the bracket doesn't commonly break like that. Don't know.....
The noise is getting progressively louder.
Is anyone experiencing this problem?
It still makes me think that your mechanic overtightened the belt, putting excess strain on all associated parts. That could easily have resulted in your broken bracket.
I've got a 2003 Accord (automatic) that sat unused in a parking garage for approximately 2 weeks while we were on vacation. I suspect that my 6 year old was playing with the light in the back seat, and it was left on while we were gone, because we came back to a dead battery. (He does this a lot, and I didn't doublecheck - my bad.)
Here's the problem. We tried to jump start it, and while it accepts the charge, it also starts the horn honking and the lights flashing continuously. We tried pressing the buttons on the key to get it to stop, but this had no effect. I should also note that we tried with two different sets of jumper cables and two different cars, and the results are the same. The problem must be with my car.
It is just past the 30K warranty, and our dealer is quite a drive from where the car is. I've called, and they say they can't tell me anything over the phone - it has to be towed in.
Does anyone have a clue as to what is going on here? I tried searching the boards, but didn't find anything useful.
Thanks in advance.
Angela
You might try removing one of the battery clamps, and put on a battery charger, then when the battery is charged, rehook it back up. The alarm may be triggered due to a low voltage. Battery cables may not be enough to keep the alarm happy.
Mrbill
I am seriously considering a warranty breach litigation. Anyone else has the same issue?
I was able to start the car once it was hooked up to the other car via the battery cables. I didn't leave the cables on long enough for it to start on it's own though. We did try this very quickly, and it wouldn't restart.
It started the alarm as soon as the cables were hooked up - not when I started the car. This is the problem, because it's impossible to leave the cables on long enough for it to charge to start on it's own. Hope that made sense.
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but what is a battery charger? Is it something that I can buy at Pep Boys or another auto type store?
My wife's 03 EX sedan had a similar issue, corrected under warranty by Honda with reformulated brake pads and rotor turning.
Since the 7th gen Accord is such a good car otherwise, I'd consider just replacing the front rotors with better aftermarket rotors (Tirerack sells Brembo vented front rotors for $53 each). The rears aren't as critical, and are an unlikely source of vibration, but you can upgrade those to disk brakes.
Perhaps the 7th gen Accord is still the best overall buy, but still my wife (03 sedan) and I (03 coupe) have had to accept more interior noises and mechanical problems (sedan's pulsing brakes and coupe's broken motor mount) than in previous Hondas.
Thanks, Walt
I can't say that it will solve this problem, but it's also something good to have around if you think this could happen again.
Since nothing should have changed to the car when the battery went dead, the only thing I see going on is that the alarm has problems dealing with the low voltage from your existing battery being discharged.
Normally, you can just hook up a charger to the battery, with the battery clamps still hooked to the battery, but in your case, that probably will cause the alarm to go off. I guess you will find out when you hook up a charger, and see if the problem is still there, if so, then unhook one of the cables.
Just follow the instructions with the charger for the proper way to hook it up.
Good luck
mrbill
I keep wondering if there's something wrong with the battery or alternator in the car that is keeping the voltage too low for the electronics even when the jumper cables are attached. Are the cables copper and large diameter wiring. If they are aluminum and fairly thin, they may not carry enough current.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,