Dear atlantabenny, The thing is, my car is still under warranty. Honda did replace the drums under warranty and resurfaced rotors and problem is still there. Altogether my car has been in the shop for this issue at least 12 times totalling almost three! weeks at all. I thought about upgrading the drums to the rotors but this will void the warranty. The "funny" thing is that Honda (as probably any other manufacturer) is trying to convince you that "everything is fine", and when I stated that I have another Accord that does not have this problem, they begin to tell the stories of re-designing the brakes for best performance, etc. and other BS. Makes you wonder, how the quality of once one of the most reliable cars goes down the drain....
We drove our other car back to work, and hooked it up to the Accord. The second the last battery clamp made contact it started the alarm again. We ignored it, and started the car. It started the same as before, but the racket continued. We let it sit, and walked away, and after about 5 minutes the noise had stopped. When we went back in, it was running just fine. We let it continue to charge for about another 10-15 minutes, and then turned it off and on again. It started right up, without the alarm going off.
Drove it home (45 minutes) and stopped and restarted it, and again no problem. The radio is displaying CodE, but I'm willing to wait on that until I can find a convenient time to bring it in to the dealer. Mrbill, I think you were correct in that the low battery somehow set off the alarm. Your suggestion made me think we could go back and ensure it got a full charge before considering it a lost cause.
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions - I appreciate it! ~Angela
Hello! I just bought a Honda Accord EX Coupe 2002. I like to replaced Cabin filter, but I don't know where it is and how to replaced it. Could any one there tell me ? Thanks.
The problem with the a fore mentioned A/C was nothing more than a condenser fan fuse (20 A) being blown. I found it in the engine bay fuse box. It's great how Honda provides a replacement fuse right there in the fuse box! A/C is now ice cold and will serve my girlfriend well in the 112* PHX heat forecasted for tomorrow. I am still concerned about the refrigerant being overcharged. I hope this post can help others with the same or like problems.
And "mrsbigg" I would check the screw that drives the window brackets up and down. If you heard crunching that could be the screw driving something into the brackets. Make sure the screw is clean and free of any debris. You may also want to spray the screw with some WD-40 or another non silicone lubricant. Do not spray any lubricant on or in the motor. That's important. I hope this helps.
That one car, or even a few hundred, Accords with suspect brake problems means the quality of the car has "gone down the drain". I'm sure if the internet were as populated when the so called "problem free" Accords were being made, there would still be a few people saying they were crap.
I know the 90-93 had it's issues, and the 94-97 had some too. Not to mention those of the last generation. I wonder how the Accord ever got to be called reliable in the first place?
for installation instructions: select "product finder" on the left. with the appropriate drop-down, choose north america, followed by honda, followed by accord. click on the link for "instructions" for 98->
Angela, I found something interesting, which should explain why you were having the alarm go off when you jumped the car. I found this discription of the Accords security system:
"Power interrupt protection- If system is armed and the battery is disconnected, when power is restored, system will be armed"
Since you had the hood open to jump the car, you were setting off the alarm. Something that I'll have to remember for the future.
At least you know your alarm system if functioning correctly.
I had the same problem with my 2003 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder, Canadian series.
The dealer replaced the rear drums but the problem recurred shortly afterwards. The dealer then replaced the drums and the brake shoes which solved the problem.
I suspect this may have been due originally to defective rear drums because the 1st time I took it to the dealer, he told me Honda Canada would not have any drums available for about a week.
Hello, Accord Owners! I have Accord V6EX 2001 and Found the Headlamp Lenses are degrading and Smearing the surfaces Due to Hot UV and Sun ray in California is causing this kind problem. I need the Detail information for Restoring the Lens for Headlamp. Provide information such as Polishing and reconditioning and what kind tool and Chemiclal do I need? Some told a Tooth Paste will help but I have not try yet. Prompt Responses will be appreciated.
then call the dealer you bought the car from or call the closest Honda dealer to your house. They will probably need the serial code from your radio though if it comes to that.
It was most likely a low voltage issue. If you have a dead battery, just because you hook a fully charged one up to jump doesn't mean you have a fully charged batter or electrical system. This is why you have to wait a few minutes before jumping a car once you hook it up on pretty much any car.
If you have heavy enough gauge jumper cables, you can start your car immediately after connecting. I learned a long time ago not to skimp on the jumper cable gauge. Big fat heavy thick cables work like a charm.
I haven't looked to see if my 04 Accord EX-L uses a pin switch on the hood but the manual does state the following:
Once the security system is set, opening any door (without using the key or the remote transmitter), the hood or trunk will cause it to sound. It also sounds if the radio is removed from the dashboard or the wiring is cut."
I did a little test, and YES there is some sort of sensor for the hood.
I opened the hood, and with the remote, locked the doors. The Security System Light on the dash did not flash. I closed the hood and relocked the doors again, this time the Security System Light on the dash DID flash.
There's got to be a sensor somewhere, maybe a proximity sensor which doesn't need contact to trip. What about at the latch itself? Any wires going to it?
Yes, as I mentioned in my first reply to the alarm problem, it still could have been from low voltage to the alarm system, it was interesting that Honda does mention that the alarm will re-arm if the battery is removed, and replaced if the system was armed. This notification was stated in an online notice for the dealer installed Honda alarm system, which I would assume would be the same as the factory system, just an option for models that no not come with it from the factory.
I took a look thru the grill and by the latch, and sure enough, there is a wire harness going to the latch. The must sense it there, and not with the old fashion pin type switch.
I have the same year, model and problem. I took my Honda in for the 60,000 mile maint. and one week later the radio display panel light went out. The dealer told me that he can't replace the light bulb and had to replace the entire unit - cost starts at $600. Please tell me you found a light bulb cheaper than $600? and to whom at Honda did you send your complaint letter?
Car Problem + Valid Warranty + Indifferent Dealer = Frustration.
I can see your problem. How about going to another dealer ? All dealers get paid for warranty work. A slow-selling dealer on a slow week will gladly take your work. Ask them to change your oil for incentive.
From what I have been reading about A/C systems, you could have a "blockage" in the system, (Expansion Valve, Accumulator, Orifice Tube, Receiver Dryer). You will have different combinations of these components based on your particular system's design. If you have an internal problem with the compressor, then contaminants from the compressor, will be circulating throughout the system. If you install a new compressor, you will first have to flush the entire system, and you might have to replace some components, (besides the compressor), in the process. Do you have an extended warranty on this vehicle? This is a "task" for a dealer! This problem could also be caused by a bad compressor clutch. I don't know if the compressor clutch can be replaced separately! You might have to purchase a complete compressor. (Big Bucks)! ----- Best regards. ----Dwayne
Thanks again everyone for the help. I looked through the paperwork for the car when I got home, and found the little card with the code on it. Keyed in the code, and now the stereo is back to normal. I appreciate everyone's insight, it has certainly helped me out quite a bit!
My 88 accord LXi has 138k on it. Timing belt was changed at 85k. It has just recently started to not want to start, either when cold or when hot. It acts like it is getting no gas. It cranks fine, just isn't firing on rare occaisons. I do not drive it very much but I know a problem is looming. Anyone who has owned this year model or one close to it may know why it is acting this way? This has happened a few times to me and I have had to lightly pump the gas pedal to get it to start. I know it is fuel injected and I need not do this. Is this a starter going bad, a fuel pump maybe on it's way out? The car has never stalled on me. Idle and tachometer remain steady. Any HELP will be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2000 accord v6 and recently had new brake pads put on, ever since they were applied when i brake i hear a clunking noise,but it only does it when i press on the brake, and not sure what it may be. i have an appointment on friday and really dont want to be jerked around from the honda place. if anyone has any clue what I am talking about please post
No, I have never see the check engine, or any maintenance light ever come on in this car. I got it back in 2001, and I have all the papers showing all the work done, it was well maintained. It has me baffled.
When a friend junked his 88 LXI he offered me any parts off of it for my 88 LX. He mentioned that he had just replaced the fuel pump relay, a part he claimed failed "quite often" But I declined because I had the carb version.
I don't know what the symptoms are when they start to go, but thought I'd just pass on what he had mentioned since it could be related to your problem.
I would check fuse #1 (15A) in the engine bay fuse box. If it's OK, I would test the main/fuel relay underneath the dash, next to the fuse box on the driver side.
After almost 3 yrs and 15K+ miles, my 03EXV6 experienced this rattling noise. It got worse over time. First, I thought the noise came from the seat belt adjuster. Then it was obvious the noise came from the window when it was all the way up. The window was rubbing against the plastic channel and making this rattling noise. I think I had this noise under control.
This 92’ Accord has 40,000 miles on it, works fine except the automatic transmission operates in D4 only. D4 light is on (not blinking) regardless of what gear I manually select and the car drives like it is latched in the D4 gear. Transmission fluid is at the correct level and correct color, no leaks. No faults detected in storage. Anyone got leads or clues towards isolating and repairing this problem?
I had the same problem with a BMW that was getting long in the tooth. I was able to restore the outside surface of the lens with Meguiars dual action cleaner/polish (product # M8332 @ http://www.meguiars.com) and a lot of elbow grease. Try any mild polish or glazing compound, with multiple applications. It will feel smoother and look brighter after about 20 minutes of work on each side. After the polish, apply wax to retard the aging process and make the bugs wash off easier.
I have an 05 Accord Coupe EX-L 4 cylinder MT. I have 6,000 miles on it. Tonight, I fill13 ed up with gas at an Exxon station. It held 12.6 gallons which was normal. When I started my car, the gas gauge registered less than half-full. I went into the station and talked with the attendant and told her something was wrong with the pump. She said that I would have to talk to the manager who would be in in the morning. I got his name and their number. As I started a forty mile trip home, the gas gauge climbed slowly. It took it about 13 miles to get to full. At one point, I stopped and clicked the gas cap thinking that I had not done that. Has anyone had this happen? If you did, what was it. It has never done this before now. Thanks for your responses in advance.
I just bought a 2001Accord-EX 4-cyl auto with only 17k miles. Car seems to be in great condition, however it had been rear-ended and repaired. When starting cold there is a pronounced one-time "thump" to be heard from the front. My guess is that its the transmission. The thump is not nearly as noticable when starting the car when already warm. Anyone out there noticed anything similar or have a dianosis? Additionally, it also has the orig. Michelin tires - car seems to be balanced and tires have even treadwear. Anyway, when on the highway, I began to hear a annoying hum that becomes loudest around 65-70 mph. It is coming from the rear - I think right rear. Anyone experience anything similar to this? I hope its just the tire - I cant imagine there would be anything wrong with the bearings this early. Thank you very much. --Mark
I will try, I suppose I need to get someone with a electronic system tester do-hickey lol, ?? (Is this one of the larger plug in fuses?) I have one for PMS but I think it won't work on my Honda! I tried and tried to get this car to at act up yesterday and no dice. I didn't know honda make this accord model in a carburetor version for that year?
Update: Everything on main fuse box and box under dash is ok. I cannot check the plug in swtches to the right of the fuse box under the dash w/out a tester. I was able to hear a light "popping" sound when I turn key to on position right before starting. This noise seems to be coming from the outside fuse box under hood on right side of car. So, no I cannot test that relay I guess without a tester. I was able to simulate the problem after starting it about 15 times. It did act up on 1 occaison and I turned ignition off and it fired right back up? Strange? Ignition switch going bad?
One of the problems with relays is their internal contacts become dirty with use because every time the contacts open and close, an electrical arc occurs. That arc slowly burns away the contacts, and in many cases, they electrically don't make contact, even though they are touching. Cycling them a few times usually cleans them off a little, and it starts working again, for a while anyways.
Again, since I don't have a LXI version of the 88 Accord, I can't check more details by looking at mine.
When you turn on the ignition, do you hear the ruel pump running? It should be a light ticking noise coming from the fuel tank. If it's ticking, then the pump is running, if not, something is causing it not to run.
If you were to troubleshoot the problem, you would have to turn on the ignition, and check if the fuel pump has 12v at it (or 12v leaving the relay) . If it does, then the relay worked (at least that time) if not, the relay is bad.
Another possibility could be a failing fuel pump. I have seen tow truck drivers tap on the fuel tank on a car that would not start while the ignition is on, and when he did, the car started ( he also charged is towing fee). What happened is the shock of the hit to the tank shook the fuel pump a little, and it started to run again. That car needed a new fuel pump.
I have a 91 Accord Wagon with 178K with an automatic with the 6 mo old battery. The check engine light was staying on and the SRS indicator was flashing, according to the dealer the code indicated that the TW Sensor was the culprit and 200.00+ dollars later it was replaced. On the 1st crank the next morning it sounded almost dead, but on the next crank it started right up. Also, the shift lock is engaging and I have to disengage it manually (there is a slot where you shove in your key). Since I bought it used in 1992 it started first time every time (even in MN winters). Does anyone know if this is related? The Honda dealer says "Replacing the TW Sensor would not impact starting the car."
Dear Pierre. I also had to wait for about a week to get replacement drums. Unfortunately th problem is still unresolved. Honda dealer has filed a report with Honda tech line. Five weeks later-no response...
Hi auburn63, I just have an Accord 1997 with the same vibration as you discribed, I checked with the agent, they said that is the characteristic of that model. Did you able to solve the vibration. Thanks
Sounds like the alternator to me. I had exactly same noise happening to me on my '01 LX V6. A lot of whining noise and SRS/battery/TCS lights going on and off intermittently. I changed the battery, using Walmart brand which had great CCA and cheap, and changed the alternator. This is the first car that I had to change the alternator at only 73000KM (40 000 miles). Being a Delco alternator, I guess that's expected compared to actual Honda parts. I got the alternator for free from a friend who works at an auto electric place(as long as I returned the old part for re-coring) and my mechanic charged $50 to change it. Sweet deal!
I have the same sound on an 05 Accord with 6,000 miles. What you are hearing is the tires on the back. Honda has more road noise than I am accustomed to; maybe they don't put the same amount of insulation between you and the road that I have had previously. I do really like the car. The thump is the anti-lock braking system adjusting. It does this each time you start it cold.
If the lens is plastic (and I'm assuming it is), then try Meguiar's PlastX. A NAPA auto parts store should either have it or be able to get it for you for no more than $6. To use, start with clean plastic (i.e., wash the lens and get it clean). Pour a small amount of PlastX on a clean foam applicator pad and work it into the plastic. After a few minutes of working it in, remove any residue with a clean microfiber towel.
I don't think I would try the other suggestion (buckwalter1) of using Meguiar's 8332. That is a paint polish used to remove swirls, scratches, and other marring from the clearcoat via Porter Cable or rotary machine.
seems to only not start after sitting in parking lot all day i come out and its very hot in the car,put the key in and some times the d4 light on the dash{to the transmission} stays flashing . the car will not start,when this happens it will not start no matter how many times i try to re start, does any body have any clues id be very thank ful for any help most times this has happen the next morning it starts fine runs like new, help help help
i have a surging idle and i keep hearings its either thr throttle body or the IACV. i bought an IACV off ebay and it didnt stop the surging. i put a friends TPS on my throttle body but with no results. i have been told by my friend that had the same problem i must change the whole throttle body to fix this. NOW to the way more urgent problem, yesterday i installed new speakers in my front doors. after doing so i cant get my windows to go up. the only window that will is the drivers side front. all the other wont budge or even make a noise. i tried all the switches but none of them do anything. i checked all teh fuses and the connectiosn in the front doors but it all looks good. i dont see how the drivers window will go up but none of the others will. this is a bad time cause it storms everyday here. any help would be greatly appreciated. for better responses send me an email to aws140@hotmail.com thanks.
Usually it is the front rotors that are warped. If you can feel the vibration in the steering, it is likely the front rotors, or at least something in the front end. Overall, this is a common problem with all cars and is taught in auto mechanics school. I have a new Accord, and from my past experience with Hondas and other cars I would not be surprised at all for this to happen in the future.
What usually happens is that at some point the rotors, or drums, get really hot from constant or hard braking and the stresses in the metal are relieved and therefore the metal warps permanently. Usually turning the rotors on a brake lathe will fix this, and they will not warp again. If they are too warped, they will have to be replaced as you can only cut off so much metal to straighten them. Cars these days have thinner rotors and drums to save weight, and thinner rotors and drums are more likely to warp. A half decent mechanic can tell if they are warped. The vibration can be caused by other things, but usually it is rotor or drum warpage. If under warranty, by all means get new rotors.
Another possibility is that when the rotors or drums are cold, they are not warped, but when they heat up from braking they will warp and cause vibration. If this is the case then they will have to be replaced.
I got 96 accord dx, 109k miles. AT. It's making noise like scraping two metals. When I start and go, it's silent. After a mile or so, it starts buzzing. I changed transmission fluid, didn't help. I pressed gas while idling and heard the noise (short) when RPM went down. Like mucus when you got cough.
I don't know much, but I experienced a similar issue 10 years ago with a Hyundai(hard to tell exactly what sound is coming from your car but the mucus sound paints a pretty vivid picture)... It could be a heat shield vibration, especially if you're saying the noise is buzzing. Shouldn't be a big deal, if it's the heat shield. Also, if you're saying the noise starts after the car warms up, then the heat shield making the noise would make sense.
Hi. I have searched this forum a little and see quite a few people complain of this problem but none from 2005 models. I just purchased a 2005 Honda Accord LX ( 4cyl) and I am noticing a pretty high pitched whistling sound once i am in 5th gear loudest is between 50 and 60 MPH. Is this a known problem for recent year? I plan to bring it to the dealer next week but any help would be great. Thanks!
Comments
The thing is, my car is still under warranty. Honda did replace the drums under warranty and resurfaced rotors and problem is still there. Altogether my car has been in the shop for this issue at least 12 times totalling almost three! weeks at all. I thought about upgrading the drums to the rotors but this will void the warranty. The "funny" thing is that Honda (as probably any other manufacturer) is trying to convince you that "everything is fine", and when I stated that I have another Accord that does not have this problem, they begin to tell the stories of re-designing the brakes for best performance, etc. and other BS.
Makes you wonder, how the quality of once one of the most reliable cars goes down the drain....
We drove our other car back to work, and hooked it up to the Accord. The second the last battery clamp made contact it started the alarm again. We ignored it, and started the car. It started the same as before, but the racket continued. We let it sit, and walked away, and after about 5 minutes the noise had stopped. When we went back in, it was running just fine. We let it continue to charge for about another 10-15 minutes, and then turned it off and on again. It started right up, without the alarm going off.
Drove it home (45 minutes) and stopped and restarted it, and again no problem. The radio is displaying CodE, but I'm willing to wait on that until I can find a convenient time to bring it in to the dealer. Mrbill, I think you were correct in that the low battery somehow set off the alarm. Your suggestion made me think we could go back and ensure it got a full charge before considering it a lost cause.
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions - I appreciate it!
~Angela
I just bought a Honda Accord EX Coupe 2002. I like to replaced Cabin filter, but I don't know where it is and how to replaced it. Could any one there tell me ? Thanks.
And "mrsbigg" I would check the screw that drives the window brackets up and down. If you heard crunching that could be the screw driving something into the brackets. Make sure the screw is clean and free of any debris. You may also want to spray the screw with some WD-40 or another non silicone lubricant. Do not spray any lubricant on or in the motor. That's important. I hope this helps.
I know the 90-93 had it's issues, and the 94-97 had some too. Not to mention those of the last generation. I wonder how the Accord ever got to be called reliable in the first place?
i found the following by following the H+A link at the top of the forum, then selecting Honda, Accord and 2002, then Maintenance.
I scrolled down till i found the air filter (evidently you'll need two at 9.50 each).
i clicked on the manufacturer's link, which sent me here:
http://www.micronair.com/
for installation instructions:
select "product finder" on the left.
with the appropriate drop-down, choose north america, followed by honda, followed by accord. click on the link for "instructions" for 98->
hope it helps.
I found something interesting, which should explain why you were having the alarm go off when you jumped the car. I found this discription of the Accords security system:
"Power interrupt protection- If system is armed and the battery is disconnected, when power is restored, system will be armed"
Since you had the hood open to jump the car, you were setting off the alarm. Something that I'll have to remember for the future.
At least you know your alarm system if functioning correctly.
Glad to hear your back to normal
Mrbill
The dealer replaced the rear drums but the problem recurred shortly afterwards. The dealer then replaced the drums and the brake shoes which solved the problem.
I suspect this may have been due originally to defective rear drums because the 1st time I took it to the dealer, he told me Honda Canada would not have any drums available for about a week.
Hope this helps.
pierre99
I have Accord V6EX 2001 and Found the Headlamp Lenses are degrading and Smearing the surfaces Due to Hot UV and Sun ray in California is causing this kind problem.
I need the Detail information for Restoring the Lens for Headlamp.
Provide information such as Polishing and reconditioning and what kind tool and Chemiclal do I need? Some told a Tooth Paste will help but I have not try yet.
Prompt Responses will be appreciated.
S.Kang
It was most likely a low voltage issue. If you have a dead battery, just because you hook a fully charged one up to jump doesn't mean you have a fully charged batter or electrical system. This is why you have to wait a few minutes before jumping a car once you hook it up on pretty much any car.
Once the security system is set, opening any door (without using the key or the remote transmitter), the hood or trunk will cause it to sound. It also sounds if the radio is removed from the dashboard or the wiring is cut."
I did a little test, and YES there is some sort of sensor for the hood.
I opened the hood, and with the remote, locked the doors. The Security System Light on the dash did not flash. I closed the hood and relocked the doors again, this time the Security System Light on the dash DID flash.
There's got to be a sensor somewhere, maybe a proximity sensor which doesn't need contact to trip. What about at the latch itself? Any wires going to it?
Yes, as I mentioned in my first reply to the alarm problem, it still could have been from low voltage to the alarm system, it was interesting that Honda does mention that the alarm will re-arm if the battery is removed, and replaced if the system was armed. This notification was stated in an online notice for the dealer installed Honda alarm system, which I would assume would be the same as the factory system, just an option for models that no not come with it from the factory.
Mrbill
Mrbill
I can see your problem. How about going to another dealer ? All dealers get paid for warranty work. A slow-selling dealer on a slow week will gladly take your work. Ask them to change your oil for incentive.
~Angela
Pamela
I don't know what the symptoms are when they start to go, but thought I'd just pass on what he had mentioned since it could be related to your problem.
Mrbill
It got worse over time. First, I thought the noise came from the seat belt adjuster.
Then it was obvious the noise came from the window when it was all the way up.
The window was rubbing against the plastic channel and making this rattling noise.
I think I had this noise under control.
I just bought a 2001Accord-EX 4-cyl auto with only 17k miles. Car seems to be in great condition, however it had been rear-ended and repaired. When starting cold there is a pronounced one-time "thump" to be heard from the front. My guess is that its the transmission. The thump is not nearly as noticable when starting the car when already warm. Anyone out there noticed anything similar or have a dianosis? Additionally, it also has the orig. Michelin tires - car seems to be balanced and tires have even treadwear. Anyway, when on the highway, I began to hear a annoying hum that becomes loudest around 65-70 mph. It is coming from the rear - I think right rear. Anyone experience anything similar to this? I hope its just the tire - I cant imagine there would be anything wrong with the bearings this early. Thank you very much. --Mark
-Mark
Pam
Again, since I don't have a LXI version of the 88 Accord, I can't check more details by looking at mine.
When you turn on the ignition, do you hear the ruel pump running? It should be a light ticking noise coming from the fuel tank. If it's ticking, then the pump is running, if not, something is causing it not to run.
If you were to troubleshoot the problem, you would have to turn on the ignition, and check if the fuel pump has 12v at it (or 12v leaving the relay) . If it does, then the relay worked (at least that time) if not, the relay is bad.
Another possibility could be a failing fuel pump. I have seen tow truck drivers tap on the fuel tank on a car that would not start while the ignition is on, and when he did, the car started ( he also charged is towing fee). What happened is the shock of the hit to the tank shook the fuel pump a little, and it started to run again. That car needed a new fuel pump.
Mrbill
Mrbill
I just have an Accord 1997 with the same vibration as you discribed, I checked with the agent, they said that is the characteristic of that model. Did you able to solve the vibration.
Thanks
I don't think I would try the other suggestion (buckwalter1) of using Meguiar's 8332. That is a paint polish used to remove swirls, scratches, and other marring from the clearcoat via Porter Cable or rotary machine.
in the car,put the key in and some times the d4 light on the dash{to the transmission} stays flashing . the car will not start,when this happens it will not start no matter how many times i try to re start,
does any body have any clues id be very thank ful for any help
most times this has happen the next morning it starts fine runs like new,
help help help
http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTos.htm
Check out that page and scroll down to the Accords of your vintage. There are some common probs and solutions (with diagrams I think)
good luck
i have a surging idle and i keep hearings its either thr throttle body or the IACV. i bought an IACV off ebay and it didnt stop the surging. i put a friends TPS on my throttle body but with no results. i have been told by my friend that had the same problem i must change the whole throttle body to fix this. NOW to the way more urgent problem, yesterday i installed new speakers in my front doors. after doing so i cant get my windows to go up. the only window that will is the drivers side front. all the other wont budge or even make a noise. i tried all the switches but none of them do anything. i checked all teh fuses and the connectiosn in the front doors but it all looks good. i dont see how the drivers window will go up but none of the others will. this is a bad time cause it storms everyday here. any help would be greatly appreciated. for better responses send me an email to aws140@hotmail.com thanks.
What usually happens is that at some point the rotors, or drums, get really hot from constant or hard braking and the stresses in the metal are relieved and therefore the metal warps permanently. Usually turning the rotors on a brake lathe will fix this, and they will not warp again. If they are too warped, they will have to be replaced as you can only cut off so much metal to straighten them. Cars these days have thinner rotors and drums to save weight, and thinner rotors and drums are more likely to warp. A half decent mechanic can tell if they are warped. The vibration can be caused by other things, but usually it is rotor or drum warpage. If under warranty, by all means get new rotors.
Another possibility is that when the rotors or drums are cold, they are not warped, but when they heat up from braking they will warp and cause vibration. If this is the case then they will have to be replaced.
Matt
I got 96 accord dx, 109k miles. AT. It's making noise like scraping two metals. When I start and go, it's silent. After a mile or so, it starts buzzing. I changed transmission fluid, didn't help. I pressed gas while idling and heard the noise (short) when RPM went down. Like mucus when you got cough.
Could anyone help me?
Thanks!
That's my 2 cents! Good luck!