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The thing is, my car is still under warranty. Honda did replace the drums under warranty and resurfaced rotors and problem is still there. Altogether my car has been in the shop for this issue at least 12 times totalling almost three! weeks at all. I thought about upgrading the drums to the rotors but this will void the warranty. The "funny" thing is that Honda (as probably any other manufacturer) is trying to convince you that "everything is fine", and when I stated that I have another Accord that does not have this problem, they begin to tell the stories of re-designing the brakes for best performance, etc. and other BS.
Makes you wonder, how the quality of once one of the most reliable cars goes down the drain....
We drove our other car back to work, and hooked it up to the Accord. The second the last battery clamp made contact it started the alarm again. We ignored it, and started the car. It started the same as before, but the racket continued. We let it sit, and walked away, and after about 5 minutes the noise had stopped. When we went back in, it was running just fine. We let it continue to charge for about another 10-15 minutes, and then turned it off and on again. It started right up, without the alarm going off.
Drove it home (45 minutes) and stopped and restarted it, and again no problem. The radio is displaying CodE, but I'm willing to wait on that until I can find a convenient time to bring it in to the dealer. Mrbill, I think you were correct in that the low battery somehow set off the alarm. Your suggestion made me think we could go back and ensure it got a full charge before considering it a lost cause.
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions - I appreciate it!
~Angela
I just bought a Honda Accord EX Coupe 2002. I like to replaced Cabin filter, but I don't know where it is and how to replaced it. Could any one there tell me ? Thanks.
And "mrsbigg" I would check the screw that drives the window brackets up and down. If you heard crunching that could be the screw driving something into the brackets. Make sure the screw is clean and free of any debris. You may also want to spray the screw with some WD-40 or another non silicone lubricant. Do not spray any lubricant on or in the motor. That's important. I hope this helps.
I know the 90-93 had it's issues, and the 94-97 had some too. Not to mention those of the last generation. I wonder how the Accord ever got to be called reliable in the first place?
i found the following by following the H+A link at the top of the forum, then selecting Honda, Accord and 2002, then Maintenance.
I scrolled down till i found the air filter (evidently you'll need two at 9.50 each).
i clicked on the manufacturer's link, which sent me here:
http://www.micronair.com/
for installation instructions:
select "product finder" on the left.
with the appropriate drop-down, choose north america, followed by honda, followed by accord. click on the link for "instructions" for 98->
hope it helps.
I found something interesting, which should explain why you were having the alarm go off when you jumped the car. I found this discription of the Accords security system:
"Power interrupt protection- If system is armed and the battery is disconnected, when power is restored, system will be armed"
Since you had the hood open to jump the car, you were setting off the alarm. Something that I'll have to remember for the future.
At least you know your alarm system if functioning correctly.
Glad to hear your back to normal
Mrbill
The dealer replaced the rear drums but the problem recurred shortly afterwards. The dealer then replaced the drums and the brake shoes which solved the problem.
I suspect this may have been due originally to defective rear drums because the 1st time I took it to the dealer, he told me Honda Canada would not have any drums available for about a week.
Hope this helps.
pierre99
I have Accord V6EX 2001 and Found the Headlamp Lenses are degrading and Smearing the surfaces Due to Hot UV and Sun ray in California is causing this kind problem.
I need the Detail information for Restoring the Lens for Headlamp.
Provide information such as Polishing and reconditioning and what kind tool and Chemiclal do I need? Some told a Tooth Paste will help but I have not try yet.
Prompt Responses will be appreciated.
S.Kang
It was most likely a low voltage issue. If you have a dead battery, just because you hook a fully charged one up to jump doesn't mean you have a fully charged batter or electrical system. This is why you have to wait a few minutes before jumping a car once you hook it up on pretty much any car.
Once the security system is set, opening any door (without using the key or the remote transmitter), the hood or trunk will cause it to sound. It also sounds if the radio is removed from the dashboard or the wiring is cut."
I did a little test, and YES there is some sort of sensor for the hood.
I opened the hood, and with the remote, locked the doors. The Security System Light on the dash did not flash. I closed the hood and relocked the doors again, this time the Security System Light on the dash DID flash.
There's got to be a sensor somewhere, maybe a proximity sensor which doesn't need contact to trip. What about at the latch itself? Any wires going to it?
Yes, as I mentioned in my first reply to the alarm problem, it still could have been from low voltage to the alarm system, it was interesting that Honda does mention that the alarm will re-arm if the battery is removed, and replaced if the system was armed. This notification was stated in an online notice for the dealer installed Honda alarm system, which I would assume would be the same as the factory system, just an option for models that no not come with it from the factory.
Mrbill
Mrbill
I can see your problem. How about going to another dealer ? All dealers get paid for warranty work. A slow-selling dealer on a slow week will gladly take your work. Ask them to change your oil for incentive.
~Angela
Pamela
I don't know what the symptoms are when they start to go, but thought I'd just pass on what he had mentioned since it could be related to your problem.
Mrbill
It got worse over time. First, I thought the noise came from the seat belt adjuster.
Then it was obvious the noise came from the window when it was all the way up.
The window was rubbing against the plastic channel and making this rattling noise.
I think I had this noise under control.
I just bought a 2001Accord-EX 4-cyl auto with only 17k miles. Car seems to be in great condition, however it had been rear-ended and repaired. When starting cold there is a pronounced one-time "thump" to be heard from the front. My guess is that its the transmission. The thump is not nearly as noticable when starting the car when already warm. Anyone out there noticed anything similar or have a dianosis? Additionally, it also has the orig. Michelin tires - car seems to be balanced and tires have even treadwear. Anyway, when on the highway, I began to hear a annoying hum that becomes loudest around 65-70 mph. It is coming from the rear - I think right rear. Anyone experience anything similar to this? I hope its just the tire - I cant imagine there would be anything wrong with the bearings this early. Thank you very much. --Mark
-Mark
Pam
Again, since I don't have a LXI version of the 88 Accord, I can't check more details by looking at mine.
When you turn on the ignition, do you hear the ruel pump running? It should be a light ticking noise coming from the fuel tank. If it's ticking, then the pump is running, if not, something is causing it not to run.
If you were to troubleshoot the problem, you would have to turn on the ignition, and check if the fuel pump has 12v at it (or 12v leaving the relay) . If it does, then the relay worked (at least that time) if not, the relay is bad.
Another possibility could be a failing fuel pump. I have seen tow truck drivers tap on the fuel tank on a car that would not start while the ignition is on, and when he did, the car started ( he also charged is towing fee). What happened is the shock of the hit to the tank shook the fuel pump a little, and it started to run again. That car needed a new fuel pump.
Mrbill
Mrbill
I just have an Accord 1997 with the same vibration as you discribed, I checked with the agent, they said that is the characteristic of that model. Did you able to solve the vibration.
Thanks
I don't think I would try the other suggestion (buckwalter1) of using Meguiar's 8332. That is a paint polish used to remove swirls, scratches, and other marring from the clearcoat via Porter Cable or rotary machine.
in the car,put the key in and some times the d4 light on the dash{to the transmission} stays flashing . the car will not start,when this happens it will not start no matter how many times i try to re start,
does any body have any clues id be very thank ful for any help
most times this has happen the next morning it starts fine runs like new,
help help help
http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTos.htm
Check out that page and scroll down to the Accords of your vintage. There are some common probs and solutions (with diagrams I think)
good luck
i have a surging idle and i keep hearings its either thr throttle body or the IACV. i bought an IACV off ebay and it didnt stop the surging. i put a friends TPS on my throttle body but with no results. i have been told by my friend that had the same problem i must change the whole throttle body to fix this. NOW to the way more urgent problem, yesterday i installed new speakers in my front doors. after doing so i cant get my windows to go up. the only window that will is the drivers side front. all the other wont budge or even make a noise. i tried all the switches but none of them do anything. i checked all teh fuses and the connectiosn in the front doors but it all looks good. i dont see how the drivers window will go up but none of the others will. this is a bad time cause it storms everyday here. any help would be greatly appreciated. for better responses send me an email to aws140@hotmail.com thanks.
What usually happens is that at some point the rotors, or drums, get really hot from constant or hard braking and the stresses in the metal are relieved and therefore the metal warps permanently. Usually turning the rotors on a brake lathe will fix this, and they will not warp again. If they are too warped, they will have to be replaced as you can only cut off so much metal to straighten them. Cars these days have thinner rotors and drums to save weight, and thinner rotors and drums are more likely to warp. A half decent mechanic can tell if they are warped. The vibration can be caused by other things, but usually it is rotor or drum warpage. If under warranty, by all means get new rotors.
Another possibility is that when the rotors or drums are cold, they are not warped, but when they heat up from braking they will warp and cause vibration. If this is the case then they will have to be replaced.
Matt
I got 96 accord dx, 109k miles. AT. It's making noise like scraping two metals. When I start and go, it's silent. After a mile or so, it starts buzzing. I changed transmission fluid, didn't help. I pressed gas while idling and heard the noise (short) when RPM went down. Like mucus when you got cough.
Could anyone help me?
Thanks!
That's my 2 cents! Good luck!