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I hope this helps
Good luck..
Terry.
Car_Man
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But, I got my GPS out and it looks like...40,000 miles...One major problem....it's a stick ( no help here )...does it have a roof and wheels..? So, Let's just say.....It's a LX with the wheels and slider ...and the upgrade CD ....
Mazda's are a little week in the market right now.....So, you are looking at the $6,500 to $7,500 figure.."maybe" , if it has all the stuff....and it looks new and needs -o-
That darn 5 speed is painful......
Maybe this will help...
Terry.
The program that he is speaking about...'may' be in force...I know, there was a lot of discussion about it after the Infiniti
fiasco's.....
Try to re negotiate the numbers.....I'm at the auctions all the time..as a matter of fact, I will be at a huge auction in PA wednesday....but the only point
I'm trying to make is --- If you can't buy that vehicle for under $9,000 I would pass.....Your offer of $9,900 was "more than generous".....
So, you might be better off 'if' they won't meet your #'s.....Is to buy a 1999 -- for a few bucks more .....You know, less miles, warranty, V6, roof..etc, ...It's just that the Mazda products are little cold right now....when they send it to the auction -- those $6,000 - $7,000 figures I gave you...will become very real....Just remember, buy what you like.........
I hope this helps
Terry.
My wife leased a '99 BMW 740iL for 36 months. We have one year left on the lease, and she wants to buy the car at lease end. She loves the car, it's show room condition, and only has 13K miles on it. The residual is $43K. I spoke with the salesman who sold us the car (and our last 2 Bimmers), and he said to speak with him if we want to buy it, as he can work us a good deal. Apparently BMWFS won't negotiate the residual, but they also do not send cars to auction that are turned back in at lease end--the dealership buys them at LOW NADA, then sells them as used or certified. My salesman said we can turn it back in, he will have it certified, then sell it right back to us for $1K over what the dealership pays for it. This could amount to several thousand dollars in saving vs buying it out right, plus it would be a certified vehicle, which would extend the warranty. I have no reason to distrust the salesman as we have known him for years and have an excellent relationship. Your thoughts? Thanks!
It's me again. Thank you for answering my questions. By the way, do you get paid for this?
I have more questions on those leases:
1) What is the luxury tax nowadays? When I bought my first bimmer a while ago, it was 7% on everything over $36K...
2) Is residual any better for ML430? What is the highest-residual MB in the lineup?
3) How will the residuals change for 48mo/15K/year leases for both vehicles?
4) a little off-topic: when will the 2002 X5 come out? From what I remember, the 2001 has been around for almost a year now...
Thanks in advance!
Any thoughts?
Car_Man
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The residual values for the ML430 are actually slightly lower than those for the ML320. Although this will vary from time to time, at this point the recently redesigned C-Class seems to have the strongest residual values out of all of the cars in the Benz stable. If you were to lease a 2001 ML320 for 48 months with 15,000 miles per year, the residual value would fall to around 56% of its full MSRP.
I am not rure of the exact timetable for the introduction of the 2002 X5. I think that you would have better luck finding an answer to that particular question over on the SUV Message Board.
Car_Man
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Thanks in advanced!
The best way for you to secure your best deal is to be in contact with BMW at lease end (not the dealer)...all the dealer does, is buy back the lease car at the auction....that low NADA stuff is exactly what it sounds like...Stuff
I hope this helps
Terry.
I was at a huge auction today...and saw a ton of Mazda's run ..... and like I might of mentioned earlier, they are a little weak in the market now ---- 1999 626 ES's auto, 20k, leather,roof etc...are running around that $10,000 ish figure.....So, this may be a blessing in disgiuse....
Good luck
Terry.
Can "lease cash" ever be moved over to a purchase deal and become an incentive? (I'm betting the answer is no, but ...) If there's a chance, when I go to the dealer do I push for this or is it terribly unusual.
Thanks for letting my ignorance show again!
Take care.
Joe W.
The car is in great condition and only has 30K miles on it.
The retail price of this car in the market is 26000. How can I make money on this car by selling it to a third party (since I dont have the title)? Has anyone done this before?
Thanks.
thanks for the information. I was hoping to keep my payments at about the same level (or perhaps a little lower), but we'll have to wait and see. My wife's company has a deal where we can buy/lease any Ford product for 3% over invoice (through September), so that may work in our favor on a popular product like the new Explorer. I've priced an XLT 4x4 with all the options we want for about $30K (based on 3% over invoice).
Are the residuals any higher or lower for the Mercury Mountaineer?
BTW, my current vehicle is an Expedition. Was hoping to trade down in size (slightly).
One more question, if you don't mind. The way I see it, the way to get the lowest monthly payments on a lease is to get a vehicle with a high residual (think Honda, Toyota, MBZ), combined with a generous money factor from the finance arm of the company. So, for the $30-35K I'm thinking of spending on my next SUV, I might want to look at vehicles like the Acura MD-X and Toyota Sequoia, since they have (I would presume) higher residuals than Fords? Granted, there won't be as much negotiating room based on the popularity, but the residuals would make up for that?
General Motors is not currently providing any sort of lease rate support on the 2001 GMC Yukon, either. So if you decide to lease this truck through GMAC, you will have to use their standard lease rates as well. The last that I heard, the standard lease rate for GMAC's best credit tier was 8.99%. Given the Fed's recent actions, I would not be surprised if this rate was recently lowered, or if it is lowered in the not so distant future. The 36 and 48 month lease residual values for a 2001 GMC Yukon SLT 4X4 are currently 52% and 46% respectively with 15,000 miles per year.
Car_Man
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True "Lease Cash" can not usually be applied to cash or finance transactions. However, I think that this $3,000 is really Dealer Cash that may be used in conjunction with Acura's lease program. If that is the case, then you would be able to take it into account if you were to purchase a 2001 RL, instead of leasing it.
It certainly is not unusual for you to let the salesperson that you are working with know that you are aware that there is a cash incentive on the vehicle that you are interested in and to expect them to take it into account in your negotiations. Keep in mind though, that dealerships are free to do as they choose with Dealer Cash incentives. They are allowed to keep all of it for themselves, or give all of it to the consumer. By comparison shopping at a few different dealerships though, you should not have any problem finding one that will take the full Dealer Cash amount off of the price that you are able to negotiate.
Car_Man
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You are absolutely correct in saying that the Acura MD-X and Toyota Sequoia would have significantly higher residual values than any Ford truck at this point. Unfortunately though, the popularity of these vehicles both makes it both difficult to negotiate a low price and eliminates the need for their manufacturers to provide substantial lease money factor support like is currently available on the Explorer. It is difficult to say which truck would be the least expensive to lease without working out leases for each one, but I certainly think that they monthly lease payments for the Toyota and Honda would be much closer to the payments for an Explorer than one might initially think.
Car_Man
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Just make sure you get your ..Exact..pay-off -- from the leasing co. -- not the dealer...Sometimes this figure can be "much" different.
When you feel comfortable to sell it --- just do all the basic service to your vehicle..spend a few dollars and make it look as new as possible -- A $125.00 detail can make all the difference in the world......
Study the Ad's in the biggest newspaper in your area ...then price it little less than the highest price...and just make a good ad..a 4 liner..something that will catch somebody's eye.
If you can get close to the price you want...(don't get to greedy..a buyer in the hand, is worth a lot more than one that want's to pay more ..but want's to come back another day )...Get the whole check in a certified or cashiers .....go to the dealer and pay that puppy off...and by now you should have already have a new vehicle in the wings....and if you do....this simple operation can all be done in 1 day..weather permitting..l..o..l...
Does this take a little more time and effort...of course...but, you might pick up $500.00 or ..as in my brothers position last month, he picked up $2,800.......so you tell me.....
I hope this helps..
Terry.
This site is the bomb for auto/truck information. I am getting addicted!
Ciao for now.
Thanks!
I hope this helps
Terry.
-What is current money factor and residuals through Volvo for the V70 2.4 (non turbo) auto, cloth, w/traction control?
-Is there any advantage to using a private leasing company?
-Although I buy car at a discount through europe delivery deal, I was told residuals are based on the MSRP, an advantage for me. Is this true?
Also the order and build time on the car is 14 weeks, plus we plan to be there 2 weeks then 4 more weeks deliverly time to our US dealership. Due to this time frame I will be without a car for 2 months because my current lease on a 98 Camry is ending. Will leasing companys ever extend a lease at same terms for an additional 4 or 6 months?
Finally, if we like the Volvo wagon and want to buy at lease end, is there anything I should try to get in the lease contract now that could help me later if we decide to do that?
Thanks in advance for all the great info!
-Kevin in Tampa
Thanks!
Terry, the question I have for you is whether a buyer would be willing to pay a cashier's check to me for the whole sale price since I dont have the title of the car. Wouldnt they be hesitant to pay cash for a car that the owner doesnt even hold the title to?
Did your brother sign a contract with the buyer?
Malikh
I have a Volvo S60 2.4T on order for delivery in late May. One thing: the order includes several free add-ons from an AOL promotion (metallic paint, 10 cd changer, and speakers, etc.). Would these items have any impact on the lease, e.g., affect the residual calculation? Or, does it just help when turning in the car at the end?
Thanks
I have seen a bunch of returns...sometimes as early as early as 6 to 8 months....If the leasing company get's "all" the payments due to complete the contract...plus any disposition etc,fee's ..etc - it's usually to their advantage to take the vehicle back early .....They have received all monies, dealer has ist option to purchase if so wanted or it goes to auction and they pick up more money than waiting ..let's say another 3 month's ......
I hope this help's
Terry.
I'm inclined to not deal with them at all, but he said if I was interested in a 2002 TL-S that will be coming in over the next month, he thinks the residual will jump back up. Do you have any figures on what the lease numbers will be on the 2002 TL-S? I believe your word rather than the dealer's at this point. Thanks for your help, again.
So anyways my payments are $255 a month and Im looking to upgrade to a 3 year lease for a 2001 Neon R/T. I have almost $2000 for a downpayment and the $1000 rebate, but when I called for the payoff value of my car I was astonished to be told it was $11,000!
Im only expecting to get $5700 on it as a trade in, about $1000 less than the total amount of payments I have left. So why is my payoff value so high? How am I to upgrade my car through another lease if im stuck in this one? Is the payoff value different if im trading my car in to a dealer? Can't the bank give me a break if im looking to get another lease through them on a new car? Any help and additional info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks alot.
Sometimes, a lease program just doesn't help the consumer......In this case ..you had a lot of negative equity going in.....and see, a lease can only "hold" so much ...that's why the big cash down...that money, just got you into the already inflated deal.....and taking a 60 month lease is kinda the kiss of death -so to speak-
But, like anything in life....lot's of cash, can get someone out of just about anything ( just ask, Ray Lewis l.o.l. ).....
Never lease a vehicle for more than 39 month's that's first and formost....and second, since your are looking at a Neon, you should be financing on this next deal....there nice little cars but ..they depreciate a ton...probably the best thing for you at this time....is to drive the old one till lease end ...then start fresh......
I hope this Helps....
Terry.
Car_Man
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Furthermore, it is definitely to your advantage to lease this car for 36 months instead of 48 months. If you lease it for three years, you will be able to take advantage of the special lease money factors that Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp. has available on the 2001 Maxima right now. Their three year lease money factor for this car is equivalent to an interest rate of about 4.9%, but if you lease for 4 years you will have to use their standard lease money factor which is equivalent to an interest rate of around 8.4%. Furthermore, by leasing for the shorter term you will be covered by this vehicle's original factory warranty for the duration of your contract. If you had a 4 year lease, you would be responsible for paying for any necessary repairs to your car out of your own pocket before turning it in. If these repairs were not made, you could face significant lease-end charges for excessive wear and tear.
I suggest that you shop around at a couple of dealerships to see what the lowest capitalized cost that you can get on this car is. There are plenty of Nissan dealerships in New Youk and New Jersey so this shouldn't be a problem. Once you have the full MSRP and cap cost for a particular car, I would be glad to let you know what I think its monthly lease payments should be.
Car_Man
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Example:
20,000 - 2,500 = cap cost
Is this right?
We were also told by the dealer that the first months payments / reg. fee / doc fee would come off of the downpayment and then what is left over will be applied to the gross cap cost. We're thinking they are wrong but I'm not sure.