Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Car_man
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P.S. I just noticed that you mentioned Mass. in your post as well. The aforementioned money factor is definitely available there.
If the bank's really high, talking with a supervisor might get you a better price; but, if you're really in a 'take it or leave it' spot, leaving it isn't a bad option in this slow car market. Let 'em throw you in the briar patch, LOL.
I read in an earlier post that the BMWFS Feb. money factor on an x-5 was .00235 with a 63% residual. Please let me know if this is still correct and if there will be a change in March. Thanks
I'm meddling from here, but . . . .
Were it me, before I did anything else, like call the bank for instance, I'd clean up the Jeep real well and take a bunch of pictures, especially of the repaired stuff - in case there's hassle about 'wear and tear'. LOL, a bunch of sides to a Jeep with two tops - inside X 2, outside driver's side, passenger's side, front, back, top, bottom, engine compartment, etc.; so, that's a roll or two of film.
Then, I'd let go of the Jeep emotionally. LOL, if the banker's any good at all, he'll know within $25 what the sentimental value is to you. So, reduce that to do your pocketbook a favor.
Then, I'd carefully read the lease agreement.
Then, I'd call the bank.
FWIW, I think you're in a strong position here. From the bank's point of view, they can sell the Jeep to you at the figure Terry gave you and do some more business or, LOL, they can sell the Jeep to someone else for about the same money and, instead of doing some more business, store it, market it, etc. If the lease agreement provides for credit for unused miles, you can even walk off with some cash to buy what you want in a buyer's car market.
My local Lexus dealer here in NC is offering me a money factor of .00189 on a 39 month lease, I have read in this forum where you stated the MF on a ES300 at .00180...should I be getting the same .00180?? or is the dealer looking to boost his deal?? They are also charging for a $600 acquisition fee thru LFS...but are also charging a $549 doc fee. Is this not just pure margin for them??? They say this can't be negotiated?? What do you think?? As always...thanks for your help!!
I just hope that the bank will come down. From a business perspective, it seems silly of them not to. While my next Jeep won't be a lease, my next lease (when I grow up...) will be through the manufacturer. They seem to have a lot more room to move, and care a little more about gaining loyalty (kind of cynical, especially coming from a banker!)
Sentiment aside, I'll still be driving a Wrangler in two months, the question that remains is will it be mine, or a new, stripped down model?
By the way, the bank rep said "if you are willing to get a new one for $40 more a month, then I'd do that". Do you think he's bluffing or really has no room to negotiate??
Regards... Vikd
Car_man
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Car_man
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Car_man
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Car_man
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If you were to lease a 2003 Nissan Maxima through Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp. right now for 39 months with 12,000 miles per year, their base lease money factor is .00204. Their corresponding residual values would be 49% for the 2003 Maxima GXE, 51% for the 2003 Maxima SE, & 53% for the 2003 Maxima GLE. In addition to their special lease program, Nissan is currently providing $500 lease cash on this car that may be sued to lower its capitalized cost.
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Regards... Vikd
My thought goes along with Car_Man; i.e. to climb the ladder. You might eventaully get to someone for whom profitability matters. Somewhere I read that lessors can insure against losses on leases; in which case, a dim bulb banker might figure he comes out better on a turn-in.
I still think taking the pics is a good idea. And reading your lease agreement to see if you have a mileage refund coming.
I have negotiated a BMW 525 with an MSRP of $42370 down to a selling price of $40850, a residual of $26,445 and a money factor of 0.0017 for a monthly payment of $589 (includes Kansas taxes of 7.5%). How does this compare to the best I can hope to do? Can I expect this type of deal to hold? My current lease doesn't end until April but a $15 month savings makes it worth my while to buy early.
Thanks!
Car_man
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As far as this car's price goes, you were able to negotiate a slightly larger discount than Edmunds.com True Market Value price for this car, so you did fine.
Here is a link to a sample lease that BMW is currently offering on this car: 2003 BMW 5-Series Special Lease Offer. You can use it as a reference point in your negotiations. Also, I just calculated a sample lease payment for you on the exact car that you are interested in. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2003 BMW 525i (MSRP: $42,370 / Cap Cost: $40,850) through BMW Financial Services this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, your zero down, pre-tax monthly lease payment should be around $506.
Although it is difficult to predict what manufacturers will do with their future incentives and lease programs, I personally don't envision BMW's program on the 5-Series getting much worse in the next month or two. If I was in your situation with my lease scheduled to expire in April, I personally would wait a month or two before signing a new lease. There is no reason to waste those final two lease payments.
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First, thank you for all of your help in determining rates/residuals, etc. I've locked in an order for a new BMW 330xi with a 36mo/12k mi lease using .0015/62%/$525 acquisition. The upfronts include 1st month, security, and license/registration fees. My question: How can I determine if they are padding the license/registration fees? The total upfronts are around $1700, which means that the lic/reg fees are in the $500-$600 range (after ~$540-$550 1st mo, $550-$600 deposit). Note: the range on the 1st month & security is because I haven't decided whether or not I'm going to roll the acquisition fee into the lease or pay it upfront (in addition to the $1700). I may also use BMW's multiple security deposit program, so those #'s could change a little.
Nevertheless, how can I determine what the REAL fees for lic/registration should be with the start of a new lease? I assume there are other, legitimate fees that are wrapped into that (besides just the fee for tabs).
Thanks again!
A friend of mine is looking to lease a car for 3 years, either 12k or 15k miles. She is leaning heavily toward a Pontiac Grand Am, but is also interested in a Nissan Altima 2.5S (my suggestion to her). Can you give me some information on lease deals for both of these vehicles? Rates, residuals, etc. for the terms listed above. She's planning to buy in a couple of weeks.
TIA
SilverCrown
I did read your reply about the February Saab 9-3 lease program, but I need the details for March. I would like the money factor and residual for the 9-3 Linear model for a 36 month/15k miles per year lease. Also, if you can, please give me the March incentive info on the 9-3.
Thanks a lot.
Thanks.
Thanks!
Car_man
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As a side note, BMW Financial Services' multiple security deposit program is a great way to lower your monthly lease payments. I know many people who have used this program and have been very happy with the results.
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Intrepid
$329 per month X 60 months = $19740
Down payment = $3000
Over mileage payment = $1500
Total cost to me = $21540
MPV
$391 per month X 60 Months = $23460
Down payment = $0
Total cost to me = $23460
At first glance you might think the lease is a better deal, especially if you don't have to pay an over mileage charge. However, the show stopper here is at the end of the 60 month lease, I either have to turn the Intrepid in to the lease company, or buy it from them at a price of $7700, meaning I have no equity in this vehicle whatsoever. At the end of the 60 month loan on the MPV, I will own the vehicle, and it will still be worth several thousand dollars. Leases are a bad deal all around unless you own a business, or you just can't stand keeping a vehicle for more than 2 or 3 years.
I hear you are a good source for leasing info. Would you know what BMW generally uses as a residual on the 325i, 325ci, 330i and 330ci. Also have these cars generally been selling at/above/below residual at lease end? Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabe.
You leased a car for 60 months and now you are dispensing lease advice? You paid $3,000 down on a lease and now are some lease-calc genius?
Sorry, but leases are a fine tool for many who simply do not want the headaches of owning a car past it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, do not drive all that many miles, or who have the availability to write off the depreciation. Unfortunately, leases get a bad name by many people who do not understand them, want to drive more car than they can really afford, or who sign on for 4 or more years with a lot of money down and drive over miles just to then complain about how they got taken.
On the other hand, at least you can speak from experience that a 60 month lease with $3,000 down for a used-car dog of a Dodge is generally a bad idea on every front.
HiC
My secretary is torn between the new Beetle Convertible and the Mini Cooper. I was able to search for your residual values/money factors on the Volks, but I found nothing on the Mini.
She's looking at a base Mini (not the S)($19,995 manual trans.) and I would like to know what the current numbers are for 36, 39 and 48 months - 12,000 miles per. We're in New York.
She was told by the dealer that there's a 27 month lease that has even lower payments than the 36 month (just doesn't sound likely to me).
Thanks!
Steve
HiC
Curious to know what a good lease rate is for the Infiniti G35 (MSRP, 31K and some change). Also what is a good price to negotiate. The problem is, I want a manual trans and the dealers only get them in every so often. I don't mind waiting, but my experience is, is that they don't have to negotiate a car that will sell really quickly. So is anything in this situation working in my favor?!!!
Also, looking to lease for 48 months. I can afford $400, where could I start as far as offering what I could afford? $350?
Thanks
Nicole