Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

spyrogyra · December 2001

have a 97 Honda Accord LX, which was a Honda Certified Used Car. I get some kind of howling noise from the car whenever I drive up the climb, or whenever it reaches 40 MPH. Looks like it is from the exhaust or the axle.

Showed it to the dealer, and he says that it is a problem with the 97 model. Have anyone of you have had similar experiences with your 97 Accord. Please Advice.

pidzy · December 2001

Thanks Mikemw and Inkie! Mikemw I will suggest that to them. Inkie I agree with you but figured I had to take it back one last time - you know the good old three strikes your out(too bad they don't go to jail or have to pay a fine!). My one demand tomorrow is that they start asking experts outside of their shop what the problem is. But I can guarantee this, if there is a next time it will definitely be another shop. (Unless I get rid of the car before the next time.) Problem is a devil is a devil is a devil.

Thanks again and will keep you posted on the ongoing soap opera - "The Days of the Accord Problem"

bburton1 · December 2001

94 dying-had a similiar problem caused by the fuel pump-the pump was on it's last legs and would cut out at about 50 and sometimes die totally. Have you ever heard a high pitched whine when you stop the critter. If it is an in tank pump-costs a bit-mine was outside and cost less than $100 to replace. Don't get one of those $20 after market pumps-get a good one.

97 accord howling-this could well be cupped tires-waited too long to rotate mine and now get a howl at around 40-is it louder on asphalt than concrete. Look at the outside edge of your tires for cupping-just a little bit will cause the tire to howl particularly after you rotate them. For some reason many FWD cars cup the REAR tires even though everything is cool with the alighnment. Had one to howl so bad I changed the rear bearings until a friend pointed out the cups on the tires. Rotate at least every 10K-sooner is better but I am lazy and only get a little howl at 10/12k.

michaelm10 · December 2001

I too have had this problem for some time and believe that I have finally solved it by (1) Remove the right front air vent using a thin flat head screwdiver with masking tape wrapped around the blade end and insert it between the air vent and dash board at approximately the 4 O'clock position and pry same out (the entire air vent should come out rather easy).When removed you will note a black lever extending from the wheel location to the rear air vane. Carefully pry this lever (rod) off and insert a very thin piece of felt between the portions of the lever (rod) and the hooking assembly. The felt must be thin enough so that the rod can be snapped back in place. The entire air vent can then be easily snapped back into place. Before trying this procedure I would, when the flutter/vibration occurs, press down on the air vent off/on turning wheel in an attempt to see if the rattle still persists. If not, the above procedure may cure the problem. I have also noted that the on/off air vent controlling wheel should either be ALL the way on or off and not in the middle position I hope you will find this info. helpful. Mike B PS My vehicle is a 2000 Accord, 6 cyl EX, V6.

maq4463 · December 2001

Can anybody guide where (other than salvage yard) I can find spare Doughnut tire, not wheel, for my 90 Accord. I have tried Discount Tire, Tirerack and the OEM parts retailer, no one carries it. I cut it by driving it flat. Expensive mistake?

On other note, I had installed cold air intake on my Accord 3-4 months back. No doubt pickup improved to some extent (178K on my car). Yesterday I was changing the oil and thought to clean the carb. I was horrified to see that the whole carb was full of carbon (blackened out). Took half a can of carb clener to clean the gunk. I have replaced it with the stock air box and filter now. Never have I seen my carb so dirty since I have cleaning it my self(55K). Filter was not K&N just regular cone. I don't know about K&N but IMHO if you want to keep your car for a long, think twice about installing cheap air filter.

isellhondas · December 2001

What's wrong with a used one? Chances are it's never been on the ground!

spyrogyra · December 2001

Thank You Butch ... I will try to rotate the tires this weekend ... may be that is the problem ... But if that still persists ... may get the bearings checked as well ... Thanks Again ...

pidzy · December 2001

Thanks Butch: I have a long list of recommendations for tomorrow's visit to the dealer. I will add yours to the list.

Funny thing is I can tell when car is going to die. Instead of kicking up its heals and screaming and yelling, I all of sudden sense the car is very calm and quiet. Then whack - the engine just dies.

Also funny is like I said before it always happens in the same places around the city. I am beginning to wonder if I should try a UFO chat site to see if its "car death rays" from out space tracking me on my travels. Well, at least its a possibility and it would sure put Honda to shame!

jackm708 · December 2001

My 94 Accord's struts seem wearing out. The car has too much motions on the highway that makes the driving tiring.
Does anyone know of any after market struts that are better then the Honda's struts? Should I also replace the springs? I just need a stable and secure ride. Thanks

rtfmdude · December 2001

The rear defogger on the accord doesn't seem to work very well. I have a 2001 accord sedan and I live in San Diego. I get dew on my windows in the morning. I turn the defrogger on and by the time it auto shut off (which is about 15 minutes later) I still can't see out the back windows clearly.
Anyone else notice this.

rtfmdude · December 2001

On a 4dr accord, does everyone have a bump on the floor board on the driver side rear seat area? If this is suppose to be there, it seems like a bad design. My is a 2001.

pidzy · December 2001

After presenting the experts with a list of about 15 possibilities (thanks to all of you past and present for suggestions) the current verdict is the ignitor.

The service rep said they could not start it outside, it took five of them to push it into the workshop. It started for them inside after the workout. They tested the fuel system by taking it apart and found "excellent flow and pressure" (something all of us guys hope for in our older years). They went through the ignition and distributor and discovered a lack of spark - as they said it was intermittent. Ergo the the ignitor was little tipsy and moody.

No charge as yet, towing costs are being paid. The proof will be the first 48 hours, then one week, then one month.......

Will keep you posted (cross your fingers for me!!!!)

camryv6 · December 2001

Went to SEARS yesterday to get my car to have a wheel aligment because the car pulls to the right and stearing wheel shakes when driving.And when i went to pick it up they didnt do a wheel aligment because they said it needs 2 new ball joints. They gave me a estimate to replace the ball joints and they said it would cost $338.49.(Includes labor,parts,and aligment).Is this a cheap price or try someplace else?THANX

alcan · December 2001

You didn't post whether the quote was for upper or lower ball joints. According to my labour guide lower joints are 2.3 hours labour per side plus the cost of the ball joints plus alignment. Uppers are not serviced separately from the upper control arm. Replacement of the upper arms/ball joints is 1.0 hour for one, 1.8 for both, plus parts and alignment. It's usually the uppers which wear, and the most common symptom is a knocking noise over small bumps. Also, if upper control arms are being replaced it will probably also require new pivot shaft bushings. $340 sounds about right. BTW, caster and camber are non-adjustable on your car. The only front alignment adjustment is toe. Aftermarket kits from several sources are available to correct front wheel misalignment.

isellhondas · December 2001

Ball joints RARELY fail on these.

alcan · December 2001

I replaced both upper control arms and pivot bushings on an '89 Accord last month because of loose ball joints.

ramblin_man · December 2001

Anyone had the off track window on the 96 Accord? What did you pay to get it fixed? Need a regulator(might as well) and window secured as it comes out of the track when rolled up.

Part two

My wife hit a 5 gallon can of kerosene that fell off a truck she was following. I washed the underside of the car as good as I could at a car wash. I'd like to get the engine compartment steamed cleaned as the car still stinks. Anyone steamed clean the engine? Bad idea?

hbund216 · December 2001

We've done it to one of our cars without any problems. Worked great.

bottgers · December 2001

I own an '84 Accord with a 1.8 liter engine. Do any of you know whether it has a timing belt or chain? I've heard the older Honda engines have timing chains. I've also heard the belts should be replaced about every 60,000 miles. How difficult are these belts to replace? I bought the car with 170,000 miles on it, and I have no idea how many miles are on this belt (if it has a belt). Thanks.

isellhondas · December 2001

You have a belt. A Honda mechanic can pry back the cover and peek at it to determine condition.

Don't take a chance with it. also, it is NOT a DIY job.

isellhondas · December 2001

Yes, the ball joints given enough rough roads and miles CAN wear out. It's just pretty uncommon.

Some of the chain stores just love selling ball joints, struts and other item like these.

That's why I suggested a second opinion.

aparnet2 · December 2001

A brand new 2002 Accord EX 4cyl: two types of sound when I step on the gas padel after stopping at a traffic light or a stop sign ( a complete stop). Behind the normal sound of the engine, I can hear a high-pitched soft sound. As I push down the gas padel, the sound becomes even higher-piched with the increase of the speed. After the car reaches the designated speed,say 30 or 40 m/hr and I release the padel, the frequency of the sound then decreases with the action of releasing the padel. Finally, the sound then gradually dissappear (probably it is still there, I could not hear it any more becuase the other sound of the engine, which I call a normal one, is loud enough.) If I keep driving at a constant speed and step on the gas padel for acceleration, I could not hear the high-pitch sound.

I did not hear it when I test drove it. I guess it's very noisy on the busy street.

Does it have something to do with the engine or transmission? Is the engine or transmission system not so good on this car? I am feeling bad... PLEASE please give some imput. Thanks a lot.

silvercoupe · January 2002

I'd take it straight back to the dealer ASAP. It may or may not be a serious problem, or it may not be a problem at all. Have it checked for your own peace of mind.

aparnet2 · January 2002

silvercoupe, you made me sure what I need is peace of mind... I went for a ride early this morning. Actually, the high-pitched sound is always there behind the other sound, no matter what gear the auto is in. Its so easy to tell the two sounds apart. The frequency of the high-pitched one goes up (down) with acceleration (deceleration).
Actually I signed the contract yestoday. But I still need to go back to the dealer to do tag, registration stuff. Would the dealer deny the problem even if it has? They could say it would be no problem at all. If there is any problems, I should get another instead. right? I really need some suggestions for your guys. I would appreciate them.

silvercoupe · January 2002

Have the dealer check it and if they say there is no problem ask to drive another just like yours.

Doubt that they will give you another.

cole5o5 · January 2002

My 01 Accord with 22K miles started leaking transmision oil three weeks ago. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the a bad seal. After a round trip to Vegas (500 miles) I notice the leak again in the same location. Check the dip stick and it was bone dry. Took it to the dealer and they confirmed the leak was coming from the same seal that was replaced weeks earlier. The dealer when ahead and order a new transmission from Honda for the car. Is this normal? Two oil leaks you get a new transmission. All this is still under warranty. What's gonna happen with the new transmission and the warranty expiring in 12K miles? Anyone out there with similar transmission problem?

P.S. auburn63, you were right about the shifter rod cable needing adjustment. Once the dealer did that the stuck key in ignition when away.
Thanks

jrct9454 · January 2002

No, it is neither "normal" nor common. That said, these things do happen. The new transmission should carry a warranty separately of at least 12 mos from date of installation. Check with the dealer on the warranty question, however, to be sure.

Sounds like they are doing the right thing in your case.

accord_lover · January 2002

Took my son's Accord in for the 60K Honda service and was charged $338.00. All items performed were in the Honda owner's manual. The dealership where my son bought the car from wanted to charge him $465.00. Why such a big difference!

jrct9454 · January 2002

The big difference is that every service provider is free to charge whatever they want, and the market will bear, for this kind of work. Illustrates why you need to shop around for this stuff - or bargain...I have had success in just telling the service rep that I won't pay an inflated price for some of this stuff, and the result is an instant offer to lower the charge. Our local dealer is ultra-sensitive to the service competition, and stays pretty close to the prices of the independents - but you have to tell them up front that you are shopping that competition. Works the same way in the showroom - some people pay more, some pay less...

carcraze3 · January 2002

what should the mpg for 95 honda accord be? [edmunds site says 23/29 (city/highway).] Also how do i know whether ABS is installed on my car or not?

bburton1 · January 2002

If the $338 covered replacing all drive and the timing belt-that is a good deal. On a 97 I4 had some dealers wanting to charge over $700 for all drive belts and timing belt.

Had a neighbor ask me to help him change oil/filter on an accord one weekend-he had been using a Honda dealer for oil/filter change for over 2 years. When I looked at the filter-could not believe my eyes-it was the oem filter all covered with crud-had never been changed since the car was new.

There are all sorts of people in the car biz-be careful out there.

accord_lover · January 2002

Oil filter and oil change, new plugs-tuneup, adjust valves, new valve cover gasket, set timing, replace fuel filter (tank)
new air filter, change transmission fluid, adjust parking brake, adjust front and rear brakes-brake slide service for front brakes, change brake fluid, change anti-freeze, adjust and inspect all belts, rotate tires, inspect and tighten exhaust system connections, replace windshield wiper blades and hand wash car.

The timing belt change isn't called for until the 90K service.

barnone · January 2002

when you turn the ignition switch to on without
starting the engine, an ABS light should show up.
after you start the engine, the light should
go out.

to really test it, drive fast, then when safe,
hit the brakes hard and if the brake pedal
pulsates, you have abs. if your car skids,
you have no abs.

carguy62 · January 2002

If it were me the next time my car was up for X mile service I would look at the maintenance schedule and tell them what I want done. I really dislike paying for "visual inspections". My method has worked pretty well in keeping my Accord in good shape. The dealer does make a point of putting "customer requested" on the write up, covering his butt I guess.

bburton1 · January 2002

I can do all required maintenance in less time that it takes me go get to a dealer-let alone wait for the work to be done. Changed a timing belt once-it lasted for almost 90K before breaking while starting in winter-no problems.

It is not hard to do the maintenance yourself including adjusting valves, replacing brake pads/linings and changing atf and coolant. Not only do you save time/money but you know it was done and done correctly. Just get a Honda service manual-only takes a few tools. Oil change in less than 15 minutes, brake pads less than 25 and ATF change in 5 minutes-and that is not being in a hurry.

auburn63 · January 2002

Glad the adjustment worked out for you. As for the warranty on the trans it normally is 12 months 12,000 miles from install date. But some people on this board have recieved extensions on that but not really sure how they did that..Good luck..

bottgers · January 2002

I've got some questions for you. I have an '84 Accord with a 1.8 liter engine. When I bought the car, it had 170,000 miles on it, and it now has 175,000. I've been trying to contact the previous owner to see if he can tell me when the timing belt was last changed. I've heard it needs to be changed every 60,000 miles, and I've also heard every 80,000 miles. I'm concerned because I've heard this particular engine is an interference engine. Is this true?

I've called several maintainance shops in my area, and they all want $200-$250 to replace the belt. How tough of a job could it be? I'm fairly well mechanically inclined, couldn't I do this myself?

Are there any timing belts available that will last 100,000 miles? Supposedly, the newer surpintine belts last that long, I don't see why a timing belt couldn't as well.

bburton1 · January 2002

A price of $200-250 is very good if these guys know what they are doing. I would buy Honda belts (replace all the AC, PS and alternator drive belts at the same time) and let them install the belts at that price. I would not trust after market timing belts-saw how one came in a box all folded up-breaks the fibers in the belt.

I replaced mine because it was a nice weekend and had not a lot to do but would not do it again-took about 3 hours.

Most people say these are interference engines-a couple of tech I have talked to say they are not-only have problems if there is a carbon build up on the top of the pistons-maybe valves also.

You can not just look at a belt and really tell if it is about to go. If you see visible cracks and the teeth of the timing belt are worn off-then you know it is about shot. When mine broke-the unbroken part of the belt had no visible signs of problems.

If you do the job, you will need a manual to figure out where to set the position of the valves as compared to the lower end of the engine. Once helped a friend-we marked the valve pulley and engine timing spot and just replicated that and it worked.

Oh-getting the pulley off the crank can be a bear-you will need a torque wrench to set this one.

Bottom line-at that price-let someone else do it.

pidzy · January 2002

It appears that the replacement of the ignitor has stopped, or should I say kept my engine going downhill, at stop lights and at turns. Touch wood I am not jinksing myself.

So all of you who suggested the ignitor can take a bow. (If anything changes will let you know - unless you see a Canadian Honda dealership flying into outer space first!)

Thanks!!!

bottgers · January 2002

I finally heard back from the previous owner last night, and he said the last belt replacement took place at 90K miles. No need to inspect the belt now, I know it needs to be replaced, it has over 80K on it.

A guy I work with has changed several timing belts on Hondas, and he told me he would do it for a case of beer. I know people who this guy has done repairs for, and they all said he does top notch work. I don't know of any beer that costs $200-$250 a case! Should I buy a belt directly from Honda? Better quality? Thanks.

isellhondas · January 2002

and replace the water pump and other belts while you are "in there".

Be sure to give him the beer AFTER he finishes the job, not halfway through!

bottgers · January 2002

The rest of the belts are all brand new. The previous owner saved the receipts for all of the maintnenance he had done (except for the last timing belt change). I seem to recall one of them saying that the water pump was replaced. I'll check it again.

asdxere · January 2002

My 2002 Accord LX (Auto-4800mi.) has a rough downshift from 2nd to 1st when the car is cold, and is magnified further when the outside temperature is below 40 degrees. It waits until I'm almost at a full stop, then will downshift, and will overpower my brakes sometimes.
I first thought that the brakes were "giving" a little, but my dealer couldn't find a brake problem at my 3750mi. oilchange.
I determined myself that it was the transmission, because when I put the car in neutral and braked to a full stop, the car braked just fine.
Have you seen this type of problem before, or have any suggestions for this ? I hope to get the transmission looked at when I take it in for the 7500mi. service.
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks...

asdxere · January 2002

I forgot to mention, this is on a 4cyl Accord...

auburn63 · January 2002

I have not had any complaints like yours to be an actual problem with the transmission as of yet. Most people just either never had a Honda automatic before and/or are new Honda owners. Honda has made attempts at making thier auto trans smoother but still as compaired to most others aren't and this is due to their internal design. However, without actually test driving yours and feeling it for myself it is impossible for me to tell you that yours is fine.I would have the dealer check this condition out while it is winter time. I would also try to make it possible for you to drop the car off the night before and either show back up for the first road test they take or to make sure and describe to them your conditions and when it happens the most. If it has a shift concern it could be a bad linear solenoid or a shift solenoid as we have had a few cause differant conditions.Good luck

asdxere · January 2002

Thanks for the transmission info, AUBURN63...

lilfeat · January 2002

Replacing rear break pads on a 93 Accord and can't get caliper piston to slide back to accomodate thickness of new pads. Have accomplished this task on other makes of cars with C-clamp but could not budge this piston. Is their a trick to it?

alcan · January 2002

Answered in "Stop here. Let's talk about brakes" topic area.

milkyway · January 2002

My Accord 2000 SE has about 22000 miles. Recently I found it had excessive vibration when it's in idle. The vibration was worst when in D shift with brake padel depressed, but it was present in other shifts too. I went to the dealer, and they claimed to adjusted the base idle speed to specs. The idle rpm is about 670 rpm now, (the last mark before 1000 rpm), and I don't know what it was before. It's kind of better now, but the vibration is still very obvious, especially idling in D shift with brake on. (no vibration when driving). Is this remaining vibration normal? I remember it didn't vibrate that noticeable at all in the past. Did the dealer do the job right, or there could be other reason for this vibration, not just idle speed? I'd like to have some idea before going back to the dealer again this Thu. Thanks.

jrct9454 · January 2002

...is not a characteristic of this engine and trans combination. Something is clearly wrong, and my first suspect is one of the engine mounts, especially the one that is electronically controlled. It may be stuck in one mode, or is otherwise malfunctioning. Get the dealer to focus on the engine mounts as the next step.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles