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Changing the idle RPM seems like a half-arsed way of handling a vibration complaint. Complain to the dealer again.
the fabric on my ex on the passenger side came apart at the seams on the seat within a month. took it to the dealer and they repaired it without a question.
Do not go back to these guys-if they are that big of liars they may sabatoge your vehicle. Wish they lived near me-I would go in and describe some symptoms and then wait for their line of BS and then lay into them. Beware there are crooks out there.
After realizing what I did, I decided to drive for about 10 miles to see if I noticed any type of damage. I drove at highway speeds (65-70) and through neighborhoods at 25 mph, made three u-turns, and braked at varying speeds and didn't notice anything unusual. There's no vibration during braking (like you get with warped rotors), the car doesn't pull to one side, and there are no strange noises anywhere. The car only has 1,900 miles on it.
The owner's manual says driving with the parking brake applied can damage the rear brakes and rear axles. My guess is that no damage has been done, but I'd be interested in getting any feedback from anyone who knows more than I do. Thanks.
Luckily I caught myself before 600 feet though. Thanks a lot for your input.
maybe a cheap fix available-don't know but did rebuild a carb on an 80 in a couple of hours.
I will keep you guys posted regarding to this suspension problem.
The scenario is as follows: The car sat for two cold weeks and was hard to stay started. Once it warmed up it ran fine for a week. Then this week it started fine but stalled and immediately re started. After about three miles the check engine light came on and stayed on for that trip. After re starting the light never came back on.
I checked the code with a jumper wire and got 4 long blinks with three fast ones.
My question is what are the components to check in this situation? And why does it run fine once it is warmed up? Thank you in advance.
A.Hughes
FWIW my V6 was just fine....although it got wrecked so I can't comment long term.
tell me what the fuel injector fluid was.
i hear they also can change the turn signal fluid.
Are the noises you hear at or about 1800rpms under load? If so this is just an exaust buzz which is fixable but since it will not hurt anything it isnt worth the money to fix it..let us know...good luck
I have an alignment question. I bought my 2002 accord in November and had it realigned 2 weeks later because it kept pulling to the left. After the realignment, it didn't pull anymore, but it still seemed to want to drift to the left when keeping the wheel straight. 2 months later I brought it back to the dealer to have it checked and they realigned it a 2nd time. This car is only 2 1/2 months old with 4600KM! Is this a normal thing? Now after the second alignment, it seems straight on local roads with the occasional drift, but on the highway, I still need to keep the wheel slightly turned to the right to go straight, especially on the fast lane. I learned about the roads being curved, and road crown can cause a car to pull to one side, but I notice it on every highway. Has anyone else noticed this type of steering wheel behavior?
Any info or advise would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Johnny
take it there
suspension may be out slightly and factory will not grind on strut holes to fix it.
If you read back you will find people who have had bad V6 transmissions. It's hard to tell how widespread the problem is, but it appears to affect a very small number of cars. Honda has been replacing bad trannies, but of course it's still a pain if yours is one of the bad ones.
My opinion: I would buy the V6 Accord if I liked it - even now, knowing about a few bad trannies out there. If you like the Accord and like the V6 power and smoothness, go for it. You could always have problems with a Nissan, Toyota, Mazda or Ford, as well.
Next rotate the front tires from side to side. If it now pulls right-defective tire and this is fairly common. A tire if built incorrectly will cause a significant pull on the side it is mounted upon. They generally get hot and blow.
Check the brakes by jacking up the car and rotating the tires while in neutral with both front tires in the air.
Drive on both sides of the road-there is a crown-you will get a slight pull in the direction of the crown both left and right.
AFter you have done all of the above-then check for indications of damage from being damaged during transport.
On 4 different honda's, only time I had to align them was after replacing the ball or tie rods.
good luck
Does this mean that it is normal? This is my first Japanese car. I owned only American cars in the past, without any speed sensitive steering, so I never noticed anything while driving. Then again I never really thought of looking at the steering wheel. Does this mean that every Honda with speed sensitive steering will pull like this depending on the amount of curvature on the road?
On local roads it seems to be fine, and when I let go of the steering wheel, it does not pull. Am I being paranoid? Should I consider this a real problem, or is this type of steering wheel behavior normal on these highways?
Thanks again,
Johnny
Can this be improved? It usually can by adjusting the camber and/or toe-in. You'll have to get a mechanic's advice on adjusting these on your car. Maybe Auburn can help.
Yes - use Honda pads. I too have hear horror stories about aftermarket pads.
Problems seem to be only on the 'current' generation of cars, which I think would be the 1998 thru 2002 ones.
The rear disk brakes seem especially prone to wear out quickly. There have been comments that Honda personnel have admitted the thickness of the rear brakes especially have been reduced.
Honda seems to have gone too far in reducing the brakes thickness.
And, of course, when pads are needed, people seem to be getting the pitch that the rotors have to be turned during the brake job.
And, there have also been complaints about warping brake rotors.
Seems like Honda has really reduced the quality of the brakes too far. But, of course, this is something that leads to a lot of income for their repair service.
And, I've also been reading in several other car model areas, the short life of braking systems seem to becoming prevelent across many car brands.
I also have a 99 CRV that had to have front pads after 52K miles and 2.5 years, not bad huh?
I traded the 99 Odyssey in for a 2001 Accord LX 4 cyl. in May 2001, no repairs whatsoever in the first 6K miles and 8 mths.