For all of you who notice a rattle in upper driver's door, check the grab handle! Mine is constantly rattling (all 4 actually). I think Honda has to reengineer these little babies and replace them.
I have/had the same problem in my 95 accord. The light actually goes off when it thinks that the glovebox is closed. The reason your light comes on when the headlights are on is that it doesn't think the glovebox is closed. The problem exists on the handle of the glovebox, its not as tight as it should be. Open the glovebox door, and check the back of the handle (same part with the keyhole on it). There should be one screw in the back. Screw it in tight and it will tighten the handle which in turn will trigger the switch near the latch to turn the glovebox lights off. Give it a try!
I don't know if you monitor the crv board so I am asking my question here. Do you know the location of the pcv valve on the 2002 CRV 2.4 vetec engine? I checked every where under the engine, under the plastic top covers and where the dealer said it was on the right front under the cover and I don't see it. Perhaps you can check the diagrams at work. Thank you it would be appreciated.
If you are looking for parts well the complete car parts go to www.majestic honda.com they have every thing for you to built you own honda. Greetings from sunny Miami. fig.
baker16 If they do the repair correctly it will last a long time. The port hole is supposed to be drilled open and have a sleeve installed that is supposed to resist clogging which so far has worked well and long term. Good luck
Rattle from front windshield For those of you that still have this noise try taking a piece of card board and inserting it near the bottom of the windshield bettween the glass and the molding on the left side. If the noise goes away the molding/weather strip needs to have its clip repaired. I have seen a few of these..
inkie I will look as soon as I can havent had a chance to look yet but I will..
Has anyone gone to copper plugs for the 4cyl accord engine. I'm looking at using the NGK v-power coppers instead of the plats. The number appears to be the same minus the "P". Copper #ZFR5F-11.
They are resistor plugs also and the 4pack costs less than 1 plat. Since the plugs on the Accord I-4 are easy to get to, I don't mind having to replace every 30K.
got the car back from warranty service on various minor problems, one of which was subect.
as they advised me before pick-up, the driver window noise is caused by air turbulence, which sure doesn't sound like it. i let it go.
i found that if the window is cracked open just so, the noise stops, suggesting that the window's top edge rubs against the window surround. i'll apply some lubricant/dressing and post what happens.
I had a civic that had over 100,000 miles on it. I never changed the plugs once. The plugs either fire and ignite the gas/air mixture, or they don't, it's as simple as that. I guess mine kept igniting! Moral to story, don't waste your money replacing perfectly good plugs.
Thats the OEM plug type and core. NGK uses and has used a solid copper core for some time now if not always as well the same goes for the v groove. If you still have the under hood stickers I think they show that. The other more expensive but last forever types are the platinum and the iridium. But as you said you can buy 3 sets for the cost of 1 plug so I would keep the zfr5-11. Heres what the letters stand for Z=extended gap, F=measurements, R= resistor, 5= heat range, I or P = iridium or platinum, no letter is normal and 11=the gap which in this case is 1.1mm.
my input is to change them around 30k as the gap gets wider and wider as they wear which changes the performance as well as the efficency of the cylynder..
My plugs have over 85K and the engine still runs fine. But I keep meticulous MPG records and the mileage has slipped some. The plugs are the least costly and simplist part to replace. Also, if I use coppers instead of plats, it will only cost $9 and 15 minutes of my time. Coppers don't last as long, but I do believe they spark hotter.
Besides, there is joy in making machines run better.
The used plats will go into my emergency parts bin.
for confirming the part#. I have an 01 LX which has plats now and am thinking of "stepping down" to these copper plugs. Any problems with this in your experience, other than having to replace more often.
My 2002 Accord SE has the following Problems that I am very concerned about:
(1) Had trouble starting the car in the morning, 4 times in last one year. It felt like as if the engine would die immediately after starting it, but it did not die and came to it's normal running condition.
I took the car to the dealer 2 times for this. They had the car overnight. The first time the dealer told me that they could not reproduce the condition. But the problem occurred again. I took the car to the dealer again and they had the car for 6 days (there were some other problems that the dealer was working to fix). I was told that they put the car one the computer and looked at all the data stream and everything looked normal. Also, the dealer did not encounter the morning start problem (which is believable, since it happened only on random ocassions with me).
(2) As per my driving habit/condition I used to get about 350 miles for a gas fill up of about 15 gallons regular unleaded gasoline. For the last couple of months I have noticed that I have been getting about 320 miles for about the same fill up. I have not changed the gasoline brand or octane rating and taking gas from the same 2 gas stations always. Again I was told by the dealer that they checked the engine and things look OK. The dealer did confirm that I am getting about 320 miles for about 15 gallons fill up, but could not explain the DROP in fuel efficiency.
I would appreciate response to my problems.
Apart from the above 2 problems These are some other problems that I had to take the car to the dealers to get them fixed:
(1) Thumping Noise during Starting
The first dealer that I took the car to told me that the noise was normal. But I took the car to a 2nd dealer and they found a service bulletin about the engine start thumping noise.
Engine mount solenoid control valve had to be re routed to get the problem fixed. This required NEW parts to be installed in my car.
(2) Driver Seat Noise.
I took the car to the dealer 5 times (2 different dealers) for driver seat noise. For the first 3 times the dealer would put some teflon lube, tighten the bolt and give the car back to me saying the problem is gone. the 4th time I took the car and spoke with the shop foreman. This time they told me that the seat base was cracked.
The Seat Base was REPLACED the next time and the noise is now gone.
(3) The car lost it's alignment after driving about 2500 miles. I do drive carefully and I am the only driver (so no rough handling or driving over pot hole etc. is involved)
(4) Noise almost all over the car. The really bad one is at the lower left corner of the dash. At one time the dealer had the car for ONE full week to get the Rattling/Rubbing noises fixed. Still the lower left dash noise could not be fixed. After my last visit to the dealer, the dash noise seems to be better but not completely gone. I did not expect this kind of rattling from a new car (I have driven other new cars before and still own one that's now 8 years old).
Overall I had to take the car 11 (ELEVEN) times to the Honda dealers in the last one year to get one thing or another fixed. I feel that the 2nd Honda dealer that I am taking my car to is trying to get the problems fixed. I did talk to this dealer's Service director, service manager, shop foreman (and they know my name now). I always drive with either the shop foreman or the service manager to make sure that they agree with me there are problems and then I leave the car with the dealer to get it fixed.
I expected better than this from Honda (By the way this is my first Honda).
I did write to Honda Consumers Affairs Division with a list of all my problems.
Any suggestion is appreciated as to what I should do with my car.
Where can I find the TSB (technical service bulletins) associated with Accords?
If there an enthusiast site where these are posted?
I used to have a Maxima, and there are tons of resources for TSB for it...I'm surprised I don't see it for the Accord (but I may not be looking in the right place.)
As for the intermitant start problem the first thing I would want to know is if the immobilizer light is going off or is it staying on or flashing at the time of failure. The next thing would be how low is the fuel tank on gas at the time. Try and check those ideas out and see where they will lead you. As for the drop in fuel economy if you live in a cold area chances are that the winter fuel is the reason for the drop.
treoster TSB's as of now are not openly available yet but really are not in a need to be either except for if you are having a specific problem, in which case all you need to do is post and some one can check for you..They are supposed to be releasing the TSB to the general public soon but not for sure when..
according2me No I dont think there will be any problems in stepping down as the heat range and the construction is the same except for the core of the plug.
Honda WILL make some bad cars. They sell 30,000 Accords a month. 1% of that is 300 and .5% still is 150 cars a month. That's at least 1800 cars a year assuming .5% failure. Somebody is gonna get a crappy one. What we take our chances on is that we won't get the one MShamed gets. I mean who would buy a Yugo or a Daewoo? But there are gonna be cars built by them that will go 200,000 miles with no problems. Of course the numbers suggest you will have a better chance of that in a Honda but the fact remains there will be Hondas that will leave a lot to be desired. I don't think Honda's quality has deteriorated I just think we now have many more mediums to get our b:::: on.
As far as I can remember none of the lights (indicators) was doing anything abnormal in any of the (4) Engine Start problems (immobilizer light was off once the car started). Then again, I was not looking for that light only too.
About the amount of fuel in the tank, I can not say for sure. But there should have been at least 2/3 gallons in the tank, as none of my fill up takes more than about 15 gallons (I do fill up soon after the low fuel light turns on).
I live in Portland, OR. I thought about the fuel blend (winter fuel) too, for fuel efficiency drop. Then again I could not convince myself because of the following reason. I bought the car at the end of December, 2001. I started to keep track of the fuel efficiency soon after buying the car and I used to get about 350 miles for about 15 gallon fill up. But for the last couple of months the fuel efficiency has gone down.
I'm a former owner of a '96 Accord LX. The car died saving my life in a 25 mph frontal collision. (Honda's frontal crumple zone, seat harness, and steering wheel airbag did their stuff flawlessly. I had only a mild bruise across my left shoulder from the belt restraining my girth.) I now have a 2003 Hyundai Sonata V-6 - not out of choice, but economic reality. (Believe me - I'd love to have been able to afford a new Accord LX V-6... Shoot, for that matter I'd love to be able to afford a Mercedes E-Class 320 sedan, too!) Anyway, those of you complaining about the rotten egg smell are not alone. I get it in my Sonata, too. It's hydrogen sulfide gas (which is also synthesized in rotting eggs, by the way). This gas forms because of the frankly crappy high sulfur content gasoline we're getting these days along with the lean tuning of emissions hyper-tuned automotive engines. It's not the car manufacturers' fault. It's not the EPA's fault. We're simply being reminded that despite the best intentions of a lot of very smart people, an unintended and unanticipated juncture of technology and world politics resulted in a stinky backfire along the road to emisions control. And, unpleasant odor notwithstanding, the real danger with all this hydrogen sulfide gas floating around North America will be the accelerating tendency toward increased (sulfuric) acid rain in the coming decade. No, I'm not a ranting tree-hugger, but, this stuff is BAD news for all us air-breathers.
I want to disconnect my power antennae for 94 Accord EX. its winter now, and its really noisy while retracting. i want to put the antennae up, and disconnect the power (leaving antennae up) for the rest of the winter.
Does anyone know how to do this? What does the power cord look like? Will this affect reception?
Failing that, is there any type of lube I can add? I tried spraying WD-40 on the anteanne, wiping it etc. Dint really help.
Thanks for you reply, although I don't think the owner should post a problem in order to see if there is a problem. I had a notorious knocking issue on a Maxima, that the dealers would not fix until I produced the TSB about defective ignition coils for my car.
That said, are there TSBs for the 2003 Accord for:
Hard starting - engine does not turn over immediately; needs repeated efforts.
You can find the general info on TSB's by going to home on edmunds then click on safety and maintenance and then looking under maintenance. it will give you gen'l description on the database w/o having to pay.
No bulletin as of yet on the hard starting conditions going around but keep an eye on your immobilizer light and fuel level at the time of the hard start and let me know the results...
I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 cylinder front wheel drive automatic transmisson.All of a sudden my transmisson start slipping.Change fluid still didn't solve the problem.When I first start it up and take off it pulls fine,after driving about a mile or more it will stop pulling again.I cut the car off about a minute or two let it set,start it back up and the transmission start pulling again.could this be something electronic or just a bad transmission.have anyone out there had this problem
Does anyone have problems with squeaks coming from the A Pilar on the 2003 Accord Sedan. There is a bulletin out to fix them and I have brought it in for that and it still squeaks and rattles from the windshield area or the A pilar. Please help?
I have a 92 accord lx auto. The problem I have been experiencing is the failure of the parking lights to come on when it is cold outside. Each morning (leave when dark) I turn the switch on the stalk one position and nothing lights up, no interior lights (speed, tac, dash)..one more turn to the headlight position and the head lights will turn on but still no parking light or interior lights (rear lights are out also)..but once the car warms up (2-10 minutes of driving) the lights suddenly come on and all is well. Any suggestions as to the cause? I dont like driving in the dark without tail lights. Any ideas will be appreciated...thanks
durwood1 Typicaly your complaint is a clogged screen in the ATF filter, which unfortunatly is internal and requires a disassemble to repair. You could try a flush and may want to have the transmission computer checked as they can cause this also..good luck
venanzik Sounds like a bad headlight switch to me but leave it over night at a repair shop and have them check it to be for sure..
Hey all. Bought my 2003 EX Coupe about 3 weeks ago and I love it. First new car I've ever owned, and it's awesome. I've been reading on the board and saw some common annoyances that people have been having.
FRONT CHASSIS: Coming out of turns sometimes this deep creaking noise comes from somewhere under the front of the car. I read somewhere that someone had this problem and all that needed to be done was a little bit of lube.
FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE RATTLING: I haven't had this problem. Drove on a rough road today and turned off the radio, but everything is quiet in the cabin.
HARD STARTING: About twice the car has not started on me like it should. I had to turn the key a second time to get the car started. I think it is an immobilizer problem too.
JUMPY TRANSMISSION: I never noticed this when test driving the car, but hey the car's got some pep, and when you are coasting around a parking lot and step on the gas, it does jump a bit. I don't mind it at all.
If anyone does know for sure about the creaking noise and what to do, please let me know. Other than that, what an awesome car!!
I wonder if starting problems could be related to nearby radio/cell/etc. antennas. When I lived in Albuquerque I noticed everytime I visited one area (at top of a mountain) that was heavy with antennas, I could not unlock the door/trunk using the remote, I had to use the key.
Perhaps it would be worth noting if the problem occurs most frequently at certain locations.
I have rattling from the A-pillar, front passenger door, and a resonating buzzing from the speakers. Where can I get the TSB info to bring to the dealer?
I have been driving my 03 EX V6 sedan for 10 days (1000 miles). Last night with radio and Auto climate control (which makes some noises continuously) on freeway, I noticed that it was making shrieking wind noises from front. I could not tell if the noises were coming from both front windows but they seemed to be coming from the front. When car is complete stop, it is very quiet. As soon as it starts and as it speeds up, the noise level increases significantly. Has anyone had this wind noise problem? I might be paranoiac about wind noise as I have had it with my previous car (Hyundai XG300). I have also noticed jumpy transmission quite a few times mostly when I slowed down with braking. It seems that it gets jumpy sometimes when it goes to lower gear. I guess this jumpy transmission problem is quite common with many different models as I noticed on my XG300 too.
If I recall, this is the sequence to turn off the maintenance light:
- With the key in the off position, press and hold the trip odometer reset button - While holding the button, turn the ignition key to the On position (don't start the car, just leave the ignition switch in the position where all of the warning lights are on) - Continue holding the button until the maintenance light goes out... you're done!
If you still have your owner's manual, this is detailed in there.
Geez, why did they make this so complicated? On our 97, you just use your ignition key to depress a recessed button on the instrument cluster and it's reset. Piece of cake.
What can I use for creaking windows? My Honda dealer today told me about some special lubricant, but I don't buy it.
Supposedly, the seals around the window(the seals that come in direct contact with the window as it slides up and into the door frame), dry out in the winter and cause a creaking noise. What can I use that I can find at Pep Boys or such to get rid of the noise from time to time?
we use Shin Etsu greese and that is a quality lube that is safe to use on all Honda seals. However I dont know anything on the window noise, does it happen when raising and lowering the window or just driving down the road?
Personally, I think I would check under the dash for the parking light relay in the fuse box. This is where it is located on most Accords and Civic's I have seen. The easiest way to find it is to buy the service manual for $15. The hard way is to wait until it is working, pull off the panel under the steering wheel, and hunt. Toggling the parking lights on and off will help a bit because you will hear the relay click as it is switching the parking lights on and off. Most likely is a $5 relay where the contacts are starting to stick in the cold climate. Strange, but the only thing I can think of.
Comments
I have/had the same problem in my 95 accord. The light actually goes off when it thinks that the glovebox is closed. The reason your light comes on when the headlights are on is that it doesn't think the glovebox is closed. The problem exists on the handle of the glovebox, its not as tight as it should be. Open the glovebox door, and check the back of the handle (same part with the keyhole on it). There should be one screw in the back. Screw it in tight and it will tighten the handle which in turn will trigger the switch near the latch to turn the glovebox lights off. Give it a try!
Greetings from sunny Miami.
fig.
If they do the repair correctly it will last a long time. The port hole is supposed to be drilled open and have a sleeve installed that is supposed to resist clogging which so far has worked well and long term. Good luck
Rattle from front windshield
For those of you that still have this noise try taking a piece of card board and inserting it near the bottom of the windshield bettween the glass and the molding on the left side. If the noise goes away the molding/weather strip needs to have its clip repaired. I have seen a few of these..
inkie
I will look as soon as I can havent had a chance to look yet but I will..
I don't really know anything about the workings of the car, anybody have a clue about this?
They are resistor plugs also and the 4pack costs less than 1 plat. Since the plugs on the Accord I-4 are easy to get to, I don't mind having to replace every 30K.
Any knowledgeable input would be appreciated.
as they advised me before pick-up, the driver window noise is caused by air turbulence, which sure doesn't sound like it. i let it go.
i found that if the window is cracked open just so, the noise stops, suggesting that the window's top edge rubs against the window surround. i'll apply some lubricant/dressing and post what happens.
Heres what the letters stand for Z=extended gap, F=measurements, R= resistor, 5= heat range, I or P = iridium or platinum, no letter is normal and 11=the gap which in this case is 1.1mm.
my input is to change them around 30k as the gap gets wider and wider as they wear which changes the performance as well as the efficency of the cylynder..
Besides, there is joy in making machines run better.
The used plats will go into my emergency parts bin.
mike1qaz
mike1qaz
(1) Had trouble starting the car in the morning, 4 times in last one year. It felt like as if the engine would die immediately after starting it, but it did not die and came to it's normal running condition.
I took the car to the dealer 2 times for this. They had the car overnight. The first time the dealer told me that they could not reproduce the condition. But the problem occurred again. I took the car to the dealer again and they had the car for 6 days (there were some other problems that the dealer was working to fix). I was told that they put the car one the computer and looked at all the data stream and everything looked normal. Also, the dealer did not encounter the morning start problem (which is believable, since it happened only on random ocassions with me).
(2) As per my driving habit/condition I used to get about 350 miles for a gas fill up of about 15 gallons regular unleaded gasoline. For the last couple of months I have noticed that I have been getting about 320 miles for about the same fill up. I have not changed the gasoline brand or octane rating and taking gas from the same 2 gas stations always. Again I was told by the dealer that they checked the engine and things look OK. The dealer did confirm that I am getting about 320 miles for about 15 gallons fill up, but could not explain the DROP in fuel efficiency.
I would appreciate response to my problems.
Apart from the above 2 problems These are some other problems that I had to take the car to the dealers to get them fixed:
(1) Thumping Noise during Starting
The first dealer that I took the car to told me that the noise was normal. But I took the car to a 2nd dealer and they found a service bulletin about the engine start thumping noise.
Engine mount solenoid control valve had to be re routed to get the problem fixed. This required NEW parts to be installed in my car.
(2) Driver Seat Noise.
I took the car to the dealer 5 times (2 different dealers) for driver seat noise. For the first 3 times the dealer would put some teflon lube, tighten the bolt and give the car back to me saying the problem is gone. the 4th time I took the car and spoke with the shop foreman. This time they told me that the seat base was cracked.
The Seat Base was REPLACED the next time and the noise is now gone.
(3) The car lost it's alignment after driving about 2500 miles. I do drive carefully and I am the only driver (so no rough handling or driving over pot hole etc. is involved)
(4) Noise almost all over the car. The really bad one is at the lower left corner of the dash. At one time the dealer had the car for ONE full week to get the Rattling/Rubbing noises fixed. Still the lower left dash noise could not be fixed. After my last visit to the dealer, the dash noise seems to be better but not completely gone. I did not expect this kind of rattling from a new car (I have driven other new cars before and still own one that's now 8 years old).
Overall I had to take the car 11 (ELEVEN) times to the Honda dealers in the last one year to get one thing or another fixed. I feel that the 2nd Honda dealer that I am taking my car to is trying to get the problems fixed. I did talk to this dealer's Service director, service manager, shop foreman (and they know my name now). I always drive with either the shop foreman or the service manager to make sure that they agree with me there are problems and then I leave the car with the dealer to get it fixed.
I expected better than this from Honda (By the way this is my first Honda).
I did write to Honda Consumers Affairs Division with a list of all my problems.
Any suggestion is appreciated as to what I should do with my car.
If there an enthusiast site where these are posted?
I used to have a Maxima, and there are tons of resources for TSB for it...I'm surprised I don't see it for the Accord (but I may not be looking in the right place.)
Thanks in advance.
treoster
TSB's as of now are not openly available yet but really are not in a need to be either except for if you are having a specific problem, in which case all you need to do is post and some one can check for you..They are supposed to be releasing the TSB to the general public soon but not for sure when..
according2me
No I dont think there will be any problems in stepping down as the heat range and the construction is the same except for the core of the plug.
I wonder if other manufacturer sites at edmunds also have their own gurus lurking out their.
About the amount of fuel in the tank, I can not say for sure. But there should have been at least 2/3 gallons in the tank, as none of my fill up takes more than about 15 gallons (I do fill up soon after the low fuel light turns on).
I live in Portland, OR. I thought about the fuel blend (winter fuel) too, for fuel efficiency drop. Then again I could not convince myself because of the following reason. I bought the car at the end of December, 2001. I started to keep track of the fuel efficiency soon after buying the car and I used to get about 350 miles for about 15 gallon fill up. But for the last couple of months the fuel efficiency has gone down.
gee35Coupe: Thanks for your comment too.
Anybody else got any ideas.
I want to disconnect my power antennae for 94 Accord EX. its winter now, and its really noisy while retracting. i want to put the antennae up, and disconnect the power (leaving antennae up) for the rest of the winter.
Does anyone know how to do this? What does the power cord look like? Will this affect reception?
Failing that, is there any type of lube I can add? I tried spraying WD-40 on the anteanne, wiping it etc. Dint really help.
Thanks!
That said, are there TSBs for the 2003 Accord for:
Hard starting - engine does not turn over immediately; needs repeated efforts.
Rattles - all over the interior cabin.
procedures.
Where can I find the bulletinre: the A frame rattle?
Typicaly your complaint is a clogged screen in the ATF filter, which unfortunatly is internal and requires a disassemble to repair. You could try a flush and may want to have the transmission computer checked as they can cause this also..good luck
venanzik
Sounds like a bad headlight switch to me but leave it over night at a repair shop and have them check it to be for sure..
FRONT CHASSIS: Coming out of turns sometimes this deep creaking noise comes from somewhere under the front of the car. I read somewhere that someone had this problem and all that needed to be done was a little bit of lube.
FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE RATTLING: I haven't had this problem. Drove on a rough road today and turned off the radio, but everything is quiet in the cabin.
HARD STARTING: About twice the car has not started on me like it should. I had to turn the key a second time to get the car started. I think it is an immobilizer problem too.
JUMPY TRANSMISSION: I never noticed this when test driving the car, but hey the car's got some pep, and when you are coasting around a parking lot and step on the gas, it does jump a bit. I don't mind it at all.
If anyone does know for sure about the creaking noise and what to do, please let me know. Other than that, what an awesome car!!
Perhaps it would be worth noting if the problem occurs most frequently at certain locations.
I have also noticed jumpy transmission quite a few times mostly when I slowed down with braking. It seems that it gets jumpy sometimes when it goes to lower gear. I guess this jumpy transmission problem is quite common with many different models as I noticed on my XG300 too.
Anyone could help me figure why the "Maintenance Required" light's On on my 1998 EX V6 (78500 mi).
Thanks
It is designed to come on every 7,500 in order to remind you to change your oil/perform maintanance.
- With the key in the off position, press and hold the trip odometer reset button
- While holding the button, turn the ignition key to the On position (don't start the car, just leave the ignition switch in the position where all of the warning lights are on)
- Continue holding the button until the maintenance light goes out... you're done!
If you still have your owner's manual, this is detailed in there.
What can I use for creaking windows? My Honda dealer today told me about some special lubricant, but I don't buy it.
Supposedly, the seals around the window(the seals that come in direct contact with the window as it slides up and into the door frame), dry out in the winter and cause a creaking noise. What can I use that I can find at Pep Boys or such to get rid of the noise from time to time?
THanks.