Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I assume you have checked the ATF and have changed it regularly at say 30K intervals using only Honda ATF. You might try changing ATF using Honda fluid and see if that helps. You could get lucky.
The only other water-like fluid that you're likely to see is coolant, but it should have a distinctive color and smell. Any other leaking fluids should be oily.
To replace those bulbs you will need to take the center console out, then the trim around the radio and then the glove box and the under panel on the left side. Start by poping open the trap door inside your arm rest glove box, remove the 2 screws, pull up on the cup holder to remove it, remove the forward screw near the shifter, remove the back half of the center panel, remove the 2 screws holding down the shifter trim, remove the ash tray, then the screw behind it, pop out the 4way and rear defroster switches, there may be screws behind them if not use the opening to now pop out the shifter/radio trim, at this point you may be able to reach under to the shift bulb but if not you will need to remove the center panel, to do this remove the glove box and the left side under dash panel to gain acces at the screws holding the center panel, now remove it and the shift bulb is easy. To continue to the other bulb just remove the heater control panel and acces that bulb... Hope I didnt forget anything but that should put you in the ball park on how too.....have fun..
Sammy
If you had a low battery condition or slow crank that would be all you would need to have happen to couse a SRS light. I would get the code pulled by some one and then go from there as there are too many possibilities to be for sure what is wrong..
bostonoriole
If the diagnoses was to install a new TCU(trans computer) then they maybe on the correct path other wise I would get a second opinion as it sounds as if the TCU is bad...Good luck all
we were thinking about buying the accord ( EX V6 ), should we wait for the 04 ( any problems should be fixed ) ?
I took it to the shop this morning, they reset the code or cleared it. Said nothing wrong charged $33.00
Sammy
Radiator (it cracked), front brakes, new starter (wouldn't crank), new muffler and shocks and springs that sound like they're about through. I'm thinking my alternator might be next.
Just curious if any others have had to replace these items in the same mileage range. I hear so many say they have to do nothing except oil changes. Really?
These repairs don't seem to be that big a deal considering that things don't last forever. The car has never stranded me and the engine and transmission have not had any work done to them besides the normal maintenance. When you say that your springs sound like they are about through, are you saying that your car is making a creaking or crunching noise when you go over bumps. If so you might need to have the sway bar bushings lubed to alleviate the noise. Also, coil springs seem to be the common weak point of the front suspension.
As for the radiator and starter, they are certainly less commonly-repaired items than the above, but your car does have 145,000 miles on it, so I don't know if it can be said that these repairs indicate a lack of long-term durability. Everything wears out eventually. And nothing is perfect, not even a Honda.
If you live somewhere with 70F, overcast, low humidity, and you only drive 30 min at a time (no shorter, or longer), then ANY car is going to last much longer. But if you live in south Florida with 90% humidity, and you regularly drive 1-2 mile trips, then I suggest you trade often. Probably the same for North Dakota...
I expect to get at least 250K and maybe 300 out of this accord. Got rid of my last one at 200k cause the thing had holes in the floor pan from all the salt up here in socalist cold country. That one is still going and has over 300K on it now-new owner put cardboard over the holes-too cheap for tin.
Maintenance and driving style is definately part of reliability but there are a lot of cars out there that are just poorly designed and made. Know about those GM v6 head gasket problems-helped a neighbor replace two of them. However if I had to buy an Ami made car-it would probably be GM-but would definately do some research and find out which engines to avoid. Replacing head gaskets is a royal pain.
accord. They reset the idle to factory computer settings. No change. In my opinion this is a lot of bull. The vibration goes on my car when I use the heated seats or rear window defogger. If the heater fan is on very high, I turn it down all the way, then back to the 2nd setting & it usually stops. I even know how to stop the compressor from turning on all the time. I hope this vibration stops . Do we have to settle for their standard perfunctory (nice word?) response.
It's just a bunch of bull!
Long term durability
I know I am a mechanic but that usally works against cars, but my 92 Accord has 288,888 on it and is still going strong with no major repairs as of yet...
You got 145k out of your vehicle, and only put in about $500 in repairs. OK, maybe $1g, but that is still about a penny per mile(if that)...
You kinda have to be reasonable about it, though... most people that say they only change the oil don't list the maintenance and wear and tear items...
The starter, well.. that's about the only one I would call unusual, perhaps even the radiator... but usually if you flush the radiator every 60k or so completely, you shouldn't have much of an issue.
I had a '86 Corolla LE in '96 and rear power windows didn't work, I changed the brakes, cruise control stopped working, radiator leaked, oil pan leaked, tranny slipped, muffler had to be changed, starter died, alternator died, battery died, changed tires, instrument cluster went wacky on me, and the timing belt snapped. IT was a reliable car to me..... got it at 110k in '96 and drove it to 175k in '99. $3k in 3 years + 1k for the car... cheap transportation.
Thanks
from the steering column. The clicking noise starts when I start to turn the steering wheel. I talked to the dealer and they say that this is normal and it is some relay switch. This doesn't happen on the Civic or the new Pilots. Has anyone else been experiencing this same problem?
I don't have a chance to bring it back to the dealer yet, probably next week. Many ppl said it's normal, so I feel better but I am not sure until the dealer check it.
If you can't get the current dealer to do something about the CEL, find another. The vast majority of CEL alerts are for problems within the emissions system. People failing to close the gas cap tight enough and you will get a CEL. Getting one this early is scarey-particularly when the dealer sez no problem.
Let us know what u find.
One owner who maintained it well but never had anything out of the ordinary go wrong.
Used car inspection...leakdowns like 9-9-7-8.
Said the power steering rack had a slight leak.
Car actually looks and drives like a 50,000 mile Accord.
Pretty amazing!
"Having a hard time understanding what it feels like. Is it as if the car is hunting around from left to right. Sort of following a weaving track? Also, is yours a 4 cylinder? Mine hunts around the road at times and moves around a bit. As if it is catching a groove. Let me know if this is what your experiencing"
"Having a hard time understanding what it feels like. Is it as if the car is hunting around from left to right. Sort of following a weaving track? Also, is yours a 4 cylinder? Mine hunts around the road at times and moves around a bit. As if it is catching a groove. Let me know if this is what your experiencing"