Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

gee35coupe · February 2003

Mine were 40 or more psi when I got it.

avtopiwala · February 2003

I have already replaced two new CD player under dealers warrantly. The problem is not fixed. Anybody with similar issue ?

bolivar · February 2003

After first starting many cars with ABS braking system, especially after first backing up, when you start forward you may hear and/or 'feel' through the brake or accelator pedal or even steering wheel a clicking/whirring/rasping/pulsing noise/feeling.

This is normal.

It is the ABS system going through a self-testing sequence.

Enjoy your ABS brake system.

isellhondas · February 2003

I wasn't involved in that deal so I don't know what we gave the customer.

We actually weren't supposted to do the used car inspection but somehow we goofed up and did it.

The car got wholesaled, I don't know what it brought.

this isn't something we would sell despite the fact it looked and ran well.

Who would ever buy it?

tab13 · February 2003

I have also had problems starting my 98 honda at times. I will try for awhile and it won't turn over. When I come back hours later, it starts with no problem. Honda replaced main relay, spark plugs, and converter. Nothing has helped. It only happens once a blue moon. But that's to much.

bburton1 · February 2003

Wierd things can happen to and with batteries-check the posts-scrape them anyway-particularly the ground and look at where the ground connects to the body. If this is the same battery as came with the car-it is about at the end of it's useful life. If you are going to keep the car for a while-get the highest CCA rating you can find for the money-found the best deal at a Sam's for $50. Let us know what u find.

tab13 · February 2003

I saw on Honda news there is a recall for the ignition switch. Could that cause it to not start from time to time?

ahughes2 · February 2003

I am experiencing a light shudder (light vibration) at initial acceleration only. It goes away after a few seconds if it lasts that long. I know my driver side CV joint is bad and has been for some time. I am having it replaced tomorrow.
My question is: Can a bad CV joint cause this faint shudder or should I be looking elsewhere? The car is tuned with no runability problems. The transmission shifts fine in all gears and the car has 127,000 miles.

bburton1 · February 2003

Forgot to add that-on my 97 there is a recall out on ignition switches-just had mine replaced 2 weeks ago-no starting problems but you are right-that could cause this problem. Don't know if the 98 has the ignition switch recall or not-the dealer should have looked up the recall info using the vehicles VIN. IIRC the failure rate was really low-around 1% but this could be that 1%.

jrock80 · February 2003

Good news for all of us 7th Generation Accord V6 Owners! Hondas 3 liter V6 made it on the 10 Best list this year!

http://subscribers.wardsauto.com/Microsites/Newsarticle.asp?newsa- rticleid=2666865&srid=10088&instanceid=29125&pageid=5- 991&magazineid=1004&siteid=26

alkanx · February 2003

Hi, anyone knows how hard is it to replace the cabin air filter. I have an 02 V6 Accord, some older models have the same application, any ideas...if anyone has actually done this & would comment on it. Thanks.

-AL

mikefm58 · February 2003

If it's the same as my '99 CRV, you'll need to remove the glove box and it's frame. Took me about 30 minutes total.

robr2 · February 2003

98 EX-L.

Recently, the front passenger lock button works only intermitently. I can raise and lower the button with the key in the passenger side all the time and of course manually by hand.

When using the remote, the power lock switch, or pusing down the driver's lock button, the passenger one may or may not actuate.

Any ideas? Your help is greatly appreciated.

atlantabenny · February 2003

The procedure is in a post on this forum:

http://www.voy.com/8971/

Strongly suggest finding the post before putting up your own query. Outstanding Honda techies there go to great lengths to compose their posts and are averse to repeating them if the posts still exist.

jimc14 · February 2003

When engaging the clutch there often is a clunk sound prior to the car moving. It is just over three years old with about 46000 miles. I have driven standard transmissions for a long time and this noise is new to me. Any ideas as to the noise source and remedies? Thanks

cartagram · February 2003

Same car, but I bought it as a Certified Honda a month ago.

I hear a soft clunk, like a small plate clicking into place, when I just begin to push down on the clutch pedal. Same sound in my wife's 2000 EX.

Not sure what it is, but I've also noticed the sound if the car jerks at a low speed, as in coasting over some (more gently curved) speed bumps, where the car decelerates after crossing the bump.

Dunno what it is, though...

gee35coupe · February 2003

It's a bushing. I had the same thing happen in my 93 Civic. Less than $100 and the car drove like new. I forgot the name of it though.

jrct9454 · February 2003

alkanx · February 2003

Thanks guys, I searched into the forum & have not come across it but I have a feeling I would. Aside, I went & got a Haynes manual, it has few pictures of the area disassembled, I think that should help.

-AL

auburn63 · February 2003

Try taking the vacuum hose off the EGR valve and see if it makes it better. If so your EGR ports in the manifold are starting to clogg up. Typically will happen right around 1800 rpms...

moolman · February 2003

Anybody have fingerprints on the inside of the radio LCD, I thought they were on the exterior so it needed a good cleaning but they are in the inside, poor workmanship, anyway the dealer wouldn't fix it so I had to call Honda customer service and we're trying to resolve it, hopefully in my favor, I just want them to clean the screen. I guess worst comes to worst, I break the radio, because the dealer told me that would be the only way to get a new one.

Alex

broncodave · February 2003

I have a 2000 Accord EX that has the famous sticky accelerator. I know the fix is to clean the throttle body. I have some STP throttle body cleaner to do the job. After I remove the clamp and disconnect the air assembly, is there anything I should be careful of? I know there is a map sensor that sits on top of the body. The last thing I want to do is fix one problem and cause another. Sensors and alike can be problematic. Any suggests or tips are appreciated.

gee35coupe · February 2003

That's just plain tacky. I can't believe that the dealer won't fix/replace that radio. Honda will straighten that out I'm sure.

ojodelmono · February 2003

In the mornings, I hear that same clunking noise from under the engine. I back out in my car, and when I start pulling forward, right before the wheel is straightened out, there is that clunk.

When the car is "warm" I rarely hear that sound. In the afternoon, it rarely happens. Pretty much only in the morning. Anyone finds anything else about this, please post. I will be going in for scheduled maintenance shortly and am going to have them check it out, along with that intermittent hard starting.

koolio · February 2003

moolman, I got same problem too. It's so annoying. I'll call Honda and track down who installed it and fire that guy. Let me know what Customer Service can do with that. Thank you.

ojodelmono, I have same problem and posted in earlier message. Read message #4095, 4105, 4107, 4121.

atlantabenny · February 2003

The hunt continues for sticky fingers...

Try Panasonic Electronics, Peachtree City GA.

I used to sell equipment to this company, which is OEM for a portion of Honda's (and also Subaru's, M-Benz's, etc.) car audio requirements.

ahughes2 · February 2003

Auburn63-
As you stated I removed the EGR vacuum and the shudder at initial accel (around 1500-1800 rpm) went away as suggested,although the CEL came on, no surprise their.
My next question; What is the best method for unclogging the EGR ports? Should I remove the 6 aluminum plugs (drilling & tapping)in the intake with a slide hammer and de-clogg passages using a sharp instrument and carb-cleaner?
Is this plug removal the only method? I don't want to remove the intake if it is not necessary. If I remove the EGR valve will their be clogging there as well? That part is the easiest when compared to removing the intake plugs or intake. Please suggest the best method and as always thank you in advance.

auburn63 · February 2003

You can drill and remove those plugs in the manifold, clean out the ports, then buy some new plugs at a Honda parts counter and seal them back up. The EGR valve and its passenges are usally clear..If you need instructions there is an old Service bulletin for this repair and you may have some luck getting a parts man to print it out for you when you buy the port plugs..Good luck

moolman · February 2003

I called Honda customer service and they sent an e-mail to the service manager, they said the service manager with the district rep has the final say. I went back to the dealer and the service manager came out, saw the prints and said he will change it. I got a call later that day saying the radio is being shipped in from Ohio this friday and they will install a new one then. I guess I should of complained loudly the first time and talked to the service manager the first time instead of the service advisor. Also I pretty much implied that the Honda customer service approved the changing of the radio, even though they just refered it to the service manager, so they put my case number on the invoice and said approved by Honda customer service.

Alex

gee35coupe · February 2003

It was an obvious quality defect.

ahughes2 · February 2003

Auburn63-
3 of the 4 EGR ports were totally clogged but easily cleared with a coat hanger and carb cleaner. The process took me about 1 hour. I think I could do it next time in half that time. The ports are now clear with the hesitation and shudder gone. This EGR port cleaning coupled with a new o2 sensor, this ole' Honda is good to go.
Thank you for your help.

jimc14 · February 2003

Cartagram. your example sounds just like my situation. Thanks to all for your ideas, a $100 bushing job sounds cheaper than a throw out bearing. If anyone knows where a bad bushing would be to make this noise please let me know.

gee35coupe · February 2003

jimc14 · February 2003

Auburn
I was told you were very sharp on Hondas. Do you have a guess with the following conditions?

When engaging the clutch there often is a clunk sound prior to the car moving. It is just over three years old with about 46000 miles. I have driven standard transmissions for a long time and this noise is new to me. Any ideas as to the noise source and remedies? Thanks

ja222 · February 2003

geeze i was thinking about buying a honda but after reading all the complaints about them.. no way would i buy one.. i will stick to my good old american cars.. ive always thought the japanese reputation was mostly madison avenue hype and i think im right..and of course j.d. power surveys.. i wonder how much j.d. is getting for all those good reports??? ive looked them over pretty good and they are so slightly built.. no way could they take any abuse.. they would be ok to putt putt around town in.. but any type of heavy driving and im sure they would not stand that treatment.. theyre ok for little old ladies and little old geezers ... as far as longevity is concerned i see lots more old g.m and ford and chrysler cars on the road than japanese cars ..its not uncommon even today to see 70s model chevrolets and chryslers still going strong.. and i see a lot of nissans sitting along the highway .. i travel 100,000 miles yearly so i am in a lot of the states and nissans are common sight sitting on the shoulder.. as well as hondas also... especially honda accords....one more t hing ive noticed is japanese car drivers seemingly never accelerate getting onto the interstate..its as tho they are afraid to accelerate their motor as if they were maybe afraid it might hurt the poor little thing...and when they pull a small u haul trailer with a japanese car you can bet they never get over 40mph where as the american car pulling the same trailer will pass by doing 70 mph.... the drivers treat them like they are so fragile..

inkie · February 2003

Jack according to your profile you own a honda now. So I guess your pulling our chains?

As far as how people in cars accelerate on to interstates it may be any driver in any make. My Accord six is pretty fast on acceleration it beats most of the cars I have owned except for a Chevy Monza 8cyl. with a Hurst shifter and a 65 Corvette with a 327/375 fuel injected Rochester, so don't come on here and try and b.s. people.

Oh yeah! Your right about one thing now that I am an "old geezer" I bought two Honda's.

anonymousposts · February 2003

ja222 ... have you ever owned a Japanese product? Well I have. My first Honda product was a 1990 Acura Integra. It had 130,000 miles. 3 different-sized tires, the exhaust was hanging off, and the car looked like it had been used for mudding. But you know what? A good bath, new exhaust, new tires, and a timing belt was all it needed. We owned it another 30,000 miles before selling it to a co-workeer. That car was in no way babied and it still ran like new. What more can you ask for?

Also brings to mind a 89 Civic wagon we purchased for $500. The timing belt had broken and someone had thrown a brick through the windshield but after we replaced the timing belt the car ran like a baby. We took that thing to Canada, VA, etc then gave it to my sister who drove it until she bought a new Civic. Never had a problem with that car and it too wasn't given the best care in it's previous life.

You can say you see more 70's Chevys and Chryslers and that is probably true since Honda/Toyota didn't come on strong until the early to mid 80's. I know I definitely see more 1986-1989 Accords on the road than 86-89 Ford Taurus'.

As for Honda owners not accelerating .. in my neck of the woods when you are doing 80 and a car flys by you at 90 it will more than likely be a Honda/Acura or BMW/MB. Drivers of old American cars tend to being in the right hand lane blowing pollutants into the atmosphere.

And why would you tow a trailer with your sedan? That's what trucks are for and you can always rent a U-haul.

shadowfax2 · February 2003

so it might as well be YOU ja222. Me, I'm sticking to my Accord. I've owned Frauds and "cry"slers and they've left me stranded more times than I care to admit. I've also owned Mazdas, Toyotas and Hondas and they've been absolutely the best, most trouble free vehicles I've had.

atlantabenny · February 2003

Our first family car was a 57 Chevy 4-door, followed by a 65 Chevelle Malibu. Too young to appreciate cars then, I nevertheless remember that the body of the Malibu was misaligned from its chassis - found this out when I cleaned the tires for the old man and my hand with tire brush could squeeze through the tire & fender gap on one side but not the other.

2 years after purchase, I remember the Malibu engine being "top-overhauled" because the unburned gas during warm-up would make everyone's eyes water.

Fast forward to 1997, and we had a Dodge Grand Caravan whose wipers would swipe unprovoked, reminding us what the fatherly salesman forewarned us: "...these modern vehicles have a lot of electronics, and one must really not expect perfect operation..."

So far, while our Japanese-brand vehicles haven't been perfect, their overall reliability has been better than the domestics our family has owned.

But it's not to say that good US of A doesn't have excellence in other human endeavors and pursuits, because it does.

auburn63 · February 2003

My first guess would be an outer cv joint noise. Sometimes they make noise as you just start to move, try(if you can) to hold your foot on the brake, give a little gas and let out the clutch enough to engage an move the axle, is the noise there now? 2nd guess would be a loosened suspension bolt or strut rod. 3rd check would be possible brake pad shift.. Hard to diag noise complaints but that is where I would start..Good luck...

cartagram · February 2003

Any guesses about this sound: when the temps are cold outside and I start the 99 Accord, I head a gear or flywheel spinning when I depress the clutch pedal while changing from 1st to 2nd gear.

If I keep the pedal depressed, the sound spins down. It'll always stop when let out the clutch pedal in gear and the engine takes over.

Once the engine has warmed, no unusual noises occur when shifting.

What gear or flywheel is spinning when you get into neutral while accelerating the car? What should I look for?

jimc14 · February 2003

Thanks auburn63, I will try that.

atlantabenny · February 2003

Have had manual trannies before but not in my Hondas, so I'll need to go by "theories" if only to start the diagnostic process.

Theory 1: Clutch may be dragging. Any grinding/crunching noise or difficulty when entering 2nd ? If so, clutch adjustment may be all that's needed; then again I'm not sure if the 99 Accord's clutch is auto-adjusting.

Theory 2: "Throw-out bearing" is a wild guess but if this goes, you'll get a rotating noise when depressing the clutch. However I'm almost sure the noise doesn't "spin down" as the clutch is kept depressed.

For more tips, here's an excellent Honda repair forum with highly competent technician-contributors:

http://www.voy.com/8971

bostonoriole · February 2003

My 90 honda accord only used third gear in D-4, and will only go into first in the "1" detent. The Sport shift mode light is now always indicating "on".

How much would a transmission computer for a 1990 Honda Accord cost to replace?

Thanks for the tip auburn63.

phlydude · February 2003

For those who have a 2001 Accord with the I4 2.4L or 2.3L and are wondering what to look for with automatic transmission trouble, here is what I have experienced. At about 40K I noticed that when I slowed down but didn't come to a complete stop, whether at a light or stop sign, then tried to accelerate, the transmission would take a second to torque up. When it did, it would make a abrupt jerk forward as if the gear was slammed into place. I also noticed that as I have made my way up to 47.5K, starting from a dead stop is not as smooth as it once was. I find myself lightly applying the gas until I feel that the gear is engaged fully. I took my car in for the 45K service (albeit 2500 miles late) and had them look at it. I received a call from service stating that they were ordering a new transmission and that it would take a few weeks to come in. But in the mean time just drive normally and they'll let me know when it comes in. I would suggest if you are experiencing any unusual behavior from the transmission, take it in and have them at least road test it when you have your next oil change or service interval.

anonymousposts · February 2003

Is Honda covering the replacement phly?

phlydude · February 2003

They have been great about it. Mark Vigiano @ Sloane Honda in Philadelphia has arranged for a full transmission replacement under warranty coverage. I had purchased the extended warranty at time of purchase but Honda issued a warranty extension on all transmissions for 7 years or 100K, regardless of extended warranty due to the fact that these problems were occuring well past the 36K/3yr point.

jd45 · February 2003

i have a 2003 accord ex v6.i was putting armor all on all rubber surfaces and i noticed there was not any around the edges of the rear windshield is this normal.2 best things i like about this car is its quite power and how easy it is to read the radio lcd and dash board even in direct sunlight.i looked at a 1999 accord and like most cars it had the rubber around the rear windshield.thanks for any info.jd

cdavidc · February 2003

There is no rubber around rear window. I thought it was odd to. When I first noticed it I went back to the dealer and looked at other 2003 Accords and they are all the same.

yrmac · February 2003

I have a '02 V6 Accord with 3,000 miles. Once in a while during cold mornings or whenever I park this car outside(during cold days), I have trouble starting it. The engine will crank but will not start or follow through. Sometimes I have to restart the car several times or just recently, I had to press the gas pedal to start it. The gas tank is always almost full or more than 1/2 full so I don't think it's the gas line freezing. This occured four times since I bought the car and I am afraid that if I go to the dealer to complain about this problem they might not be able to replicate it. Any ideas?

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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