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The hot water flow valve is in the engine compartment at the top center of the firewall. A cable attached to this valve is driven by the same servomotor that drives the mixing vane internally. You should be able to observe this cable moving from the valve closed position to fully open when you go from max cool to max heat.
The good news is that if the compressor is cycling on a fairly regular basis then you can bet that "something" is being cooled. The most likely problem is that the incoming airflow is being cooled but then fully reheated due to the mixing vane being stuck in the max heat position.
To quote my previous post #1416 responding to someone who drove a demo LS and described a "dead spot" on the gas pedal:
"When I first got my '05, I noticed not what I would call a dead spot in the pedal, but there was a definite hesitation when I first gave it gas. I wonder if that was what you were experiencing?
This has been attributed to a problem in the programming of the transmission/engine interface. There is reportedly a TSB (00604) describing a re-programming fix for the issue. But interestingly, after driving my car for a couple of weeks, the issue went away in my case and has not come back, so I never took it in for the re-programming. Apparently, the transmission "learns" the driver's style and can adapt in some cases; in other cases, it takes a re-programming. It's possible that the demo you drove was either brand new or had "adapted" to a driver's style that was incompatible with your style.
I have seen posts in other places by people who had the re-programming done and found the problem resolved. "
A bunch of people posted after this that the re-programming fixed that problem completely.
As to the harsh ride issue, I have the 18" tires and so far I have decided to live with the slightly harsher ride in favor of the better handling that comes with the high performance tires. It's definitely a trade-off, but I have been willing to accept it.
But definitely get the re-programming done-- no need to live with that hesitation!
Is the alternator really truly damaged or are is the slip ring so covered with power stearing fluid that it cannot function?
The reason I asked is that the morning I went to put a charger on the battery but started the car first just to check that there really was no charge rate... I discovered that the battery was being charged, 12.76 volts at idle and rose with engine RPM. But about 10 minutes later the battery was indicating 11.60 volts and no charge rate.
Additionally it's hard for me to believe, accept, that PS fluid could damage the diodes or the regulator.
Did the slip ring dry out overnight and then get recoated while the car ran this morning?
I guess I'll be overhauling the PS pump this afternoon but I'll delay any work on the alternator until I hear from a few of you or it begins working again.
chrome wheels and it worked fine. I later upgraded again to 18" wheels using low profile tires. It compromised the ride slightly but man does it look good and ride great on the road.
Thanks in advance,
Ken
Can late model '90s LS 400 owners provide a summary of expected maintenance beyond the 60k mark? Based on this thread, I expect timing belt, LED display, AC, power steering pump and maybe TPS issues around 80k - 90k.
Would owners in this forum feel good about a fair priced '99 LS 400 with 57k miles on her? I must admit, I'm torn about value - does one go with a loaded, 0 mile new Camry or the '99 LS 400 with 57k?
Input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
For that reason alone, I nixed the Camry and went straight to the Avalon/Lexus LS groups.
BTW, if you're looking at a new Camry, why not look at the new '05 Avalon? Our old '98 Avalon has held up like a trooper. We kept it and ditched the Volvo. You've had Saabs. Need I say more?
FWD will get you up and going quicker and easier in those conditions but when you lose traction on the drive wheels, too much gas pedal or at times even too little, you have also lost all directional control.
AAA currently has a campaign to inform FWD owners how best to recover traction and thereby directional control in those conditions.
SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL, QUICKLY!
With RWD you simply get off the gas and steer into the skid.
Buying a new Camry is personally a better way to go as it's a brand new car, maintanance will be cheaper over the life of the car, and you have years to go before having anything major to do like a timing belt change. But the LS400 is a better car, even a 1999 model. It's more comfy, roomier, has more luxo features, is quieter, etc. etc. etc. Tough call.
An oxygen sensor failed about five years ago and this weekend I rebuilt the PS pump, new tires and brake pads all around and installed a remanufactured alternator since the slip rings on the original one wore completely worn off.
I finally replaced the factory anti-freeze about a year ago because it was looking a bit murky, Ph and freeze level were still okay. ATF is still factory.
Don't expect to do the timing belt until ~150,000 miles.
I've done the search on the NHTSA board and find nothing. Anyone have info about this problem?
Quality of body work and paint varies all the way from soup to nuts too. You get what you pay for.
I also use mobil one 5w30 in my engine and mobil one transmission fluid in the transmission and I also use the synthetic transmission fluid in my power steering to help keep the seals soft. I have found that if you live in cold climate in the winter and don;t have a engine warmer mobil one will still lubricate down to 50 below helping the engine wear from dry starts and if you live in the desert area the oil will run up to 350 degrees plus. I have read where several people have transmissions that shudder when shifting I recommend going to a good transmission shop have them clean out the trans pan then do a full flush to clear out old oil. I recommend servicing the trans every 25000 miles and if you spend lots of time in bumper to bumper traffic every 20000 and if you can buy mobil one synthetic trans fluid and have the trans shop use it the trans will last a lot longer. All german cars now come with mobil one as standard fluid motor,trans rear-end and power steering Porsche BMW Mercedes ETC. They change the motor oil at 10,000 to 15000 miles which is now standard in a lexus if you use synthetic oil check the level every 4000 miles I hope this info helps I have always gotten at least 350,000 miles on my cars with the same engine and transmission using synthetic fluids. Happy Motoring!!!
I did consider the possibility that the fluid might "wash" the insulating varnish from the copper coils in the alternator but that seemed like it would be a longer term thing.
A few weeks ago the alternnator failed in our 92 LS400 w/100k miles.
Sure enough the PS pump was leaking at the top of the pressure relief spring/valve channel. So I overhauled the PS pump and then pulled the alternator.
Turned out the PS leak had nothing, absolutely NOTHING, to do with the alternator failure. The copper slip rings in the alternator were worn down to nothing. The end result was the same, I installed a rebuilt alternator.
When I purchased the OH kit at Lexus I had also purchased a brush set for the alternator since that is the most common failure point I have found in the past. How is it that the copper slip rings in the Lexus alternator are "softer" than the brushes? Like brake pads vs rotors the reverse is true, the brushes should wear out long before the slip rings.
thank you
Would be using as wife and teenage daughters 'round town vehicle. I figure old Lexus should still be fairly reliable??? Owner recently did brakes, has receipts for lots of oil changes (says 3-4K was norm. He is 2nd owner, bought from his brother). Timing belt replaced at about 125K. Body looks great - never an accident is his claim and looks to be true.
ANyone know of particulars I should consider with this vehicle? Anyone think price is right?
TIA
George
air conditioner compressor and 2 power steering pumps. The car is from Southern California
and had good maintenance, several dealers have said that if you take care of your lexus it's not a big deal to go 300,000 to 400,000 miles. According to JD powers the 2005 lexus is the first car to be under 100 for consumer complaints ever recorded shows again just how superior they build them year after year.
As many of you know (through many of my stories) I've had a 1st Generation LS since 1992. It doesn't require too much care. I think the only thing one needs to keep track of is the Power Steering Pump. Make sure the fluid is changed regularly. When started the car should be around 1200 RPM. Once it has been running for a few minutes mine normally goes down to 800 RPM. This occurs unless the A/C is on. Also you may have to replace shocks and suspension bushings.
As per your pulsation problem, it may be broken engine mounts. This happened on my 92 after it was damaged in a side impact accident. I encountered some of the same symptoms that you have reported. There was a notable vibration when the engine was running. You could feel it throughout the car. Also there was a buzzing sound from the engine compartment. It is a costly repair at the Lexus dealer so you may want to find a good independant service center to do the work for you, if this is the problem. I think any competent mechanic ought to be able to tell you if this is in fact the problem.
SV