Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

sv7887 · August 2005

Mfpr,
Thanks for your post...I am used to Mercedes cars that run for nearly 20 years without a problem. My brother still has an ancient 300D that runs like a charm. It hasn't needed much nor has his old 420 SE..He swears by these old Mercedes cars. Look at the mileage of this car: 96,000 miles. It's been garaged and babied to no end..I am just disappointed with the overall experience I had at the dealership today. They added in unnecessary labor charges (Overlapping jobs) and work that the mechanic said did not need to be done. Initially they told me $4200. After making an appointment to come and see the car they made me wait for 40 minutes while they aimlessly tried to locate the mechanic and then the car....Not what I'm used to, and I've owned Lexus cars since they came out..

SV

paul29 · August 2005

Take a paper clip , straighten it out , bend in half , this is now your jumper, lift the cover on the grey diagnostic box and stick the two ends of the clip in the the positions previously stated do not make an error , now turn on the ign ( do not attempt to start ) . If you are not sure of your ability to follow this , perhaps you have a friend who is car savy and can help , the responsibility is completely on you . If there are codes stored in the engine computer the check engine light will blink out the codes . Do you know how to read them ? If you post the codes , someone one this board or myself will tell you what they refer to .

paul29 · August 2005

You seem enamored with Mercedes , and yes they are a good car , a great car , imo no. This comment is specifically referring to the two models you mention . Is the 300d you refer to an normally aspirated or turbo diesel ? You are talking dealer prices on the Lexus repair and independent prices on the Benz . If you have any Benz model ( not that 20 yr old stuff ) that is as sophisticated as your Lexus you will have to take it to a dealer also , as very few people can diagnose the problem , let alone fix it . ( try pulling the engine codes from a pre 1996 Merc , it will cost you at least a hundred at the dealership , with the Lexus you can do it yourself ) . Most Merc dealers have the customer hosing routine down to a science .

walkjc · August 2005

Hello All!
I'm thinking about buying a 98 LS 400 with 80,000 miles. I'd be getting rid of a passat to make this move. I'm a pretty tall guy and am excited about all of the leg room and decent 25 mpg HWY. I have a couple of quick questions:

1. Is it relatively easy to find private mechanics to work on these vehicles (who actually know what they're doing)? I live in Houston and found that I have to get the VW serviced by the dealer since no one else will work on it and the dealer does an extremely pricey yet lousy job 98% of the time.

2. I'm assuming the LS 400 will need the usual 80,000 - 100,000 miles tlc as I am buying it on ebay without maintenance records (CARFAX looks good). Any ball park maintenance figures out there?
I found out that the complete VW passat 60,000 mile service was $1,100 (too much for that car). A passat timing belt (which I haven't done yet) is $800 - $900 and can only be done by the dealer since only they have the magic tool with which to do the job.

3. Anything anyone can think of as words of caution/encouragement? I'm really looking for a classy, well made, reliable auto with relatively infrequent maintenance issues, but I also realize that this sort of car may sometimes have costly upkeep.

Thanks for reading and if you would, please throw in your 2 cents, I'd really appreciate it.
Jon

stanyslaw · August 2005

I went and tried to jump it with a paper clip no nothing, question there is like some brown color grease glue all over that where you stick the clips at is that suppose to be there? how can I tell if the computer working or not.

paul29 · August 2005

The grease is supposed to be there it is dielectric grease , it is there to prevent corrosion , it is non conductive . Double check that you pushed the jumper all the way down and turned the key until the dash lights are on . the check engine light will flash the codes and also the o/d light will flash In the grey connector box there is a two row set of pins and a three row set . Are you are jumping in the three row block of pins towards the firewall , In this three row block you will jump the center one ( TE1 )and the forward (front) one on the driver's side within this 3 row block E1 . Do not jump any pins in the two row block. If this doesn't work there is another round covered TDCL connector under the dash approx where your left knee would be in the driving position .. The pin locations are laid out differently in this connector ( layout on the cover ) but the procedure is the same . I always use the under hood one as it is easier to see but they both do basically the same function . If all your dash lights come on but no blinking you have not made proper contact with the pins or you may have more serious problems.

wwest · August 2005

I suspect that should you take a good look at the ACTUAL factory scheduled maintenance requirements for your VW you will find that done "by the book" the cost for 60k service will be less than $100.

And if you're gullible enough to swallow that $1,100 60k story from VW you absolutely don't want to ever hear a Lexus dealer's "recommended" 60k service.

stanyslaw · August 2005

I tried again under the hood applying pressure to the clip ends till it was a firm postion and turn the ignition to on, (not cranked) and the check engine stays on but do not flash I repeated this several times and the same out come. I tried inside the car but the space is to small for me and I can't get the clips in there. if i'm not getting any power to be able to check the codes what do that mean? Is there fuse/or circuit related to this that maybe blown?

paul29 · August 2005

Do you have a multimeter ? If so check voltage between TE1 and E1 with the ignition on . You should show 4-6 volts . If not ,then check for continuity between E1 and ground .

rcf8000 · August 2005

I got the Lexus XM installation, and I observe that the "TEXT" display that shows the names of the song and artist is only 10 characters, even though there is space for many more characters. Is this normal? I have an aftermarket XM installation in my LX470, and it displays many more characters. Incidentally, I had the antenna installed in the middle of the front edge of the trunk lid, even though the service advisor swore that the accuracy of the nav system would be affected and strongly advised against it. (The recommended location is on the left side of the trunk lid, which as far as I'm concerned is aesthetically unacceptable.) As far as I can tell, there is no problem with the nav. It seems to be accurate to about 50 feet most of the time, which is about the same as the LX470's nav.

stanyslaw · August 2005

hello I went out there fooling with my timing belt trying to line it up as those picture on the website that was given to me and I guess those other 2 mechanics who previously tried setting it did it wrong the first guy said no compression after he was done, second guy said no spark after he was done so I sett it and it cranked.
now i'm trying to put everything back together now which I just about did. my problem is I forgot which atf hose go where there is a big hose coming from the driver side of radiator and a smaller hose right in front of the place where you plug the 2 atf hoses which hose go on the transmission fluid connector the smaller hose or the bigger hose

georgia4 · August 2005

98 LS400 80,000 miles Buy It You'll never regret it. I have one with 300,000 miles and I wouldn't think about trading. Great Car

rgsw · August 2005

The limited text display is normal for the LS430. I had the antenna moved from the left side of the trunk lid to top center about 18 months ago and did not notice any difference in the quality of XM reception or NAV operations. Left side of the trunk lid looks awful.

paul29 · August 2005

There are two metal pipe connections at the front of the engine one supplies fluid to the rad and the other returns it to the trans . From what you said I do not know if you have the flex hoses attached to the pipes or the rad . Any way the passenger side flex hose attached to the pass side metal pipe on the engine attaches to the pass side of rad . The flex hose with the protector covering ( large longer hose ?) attaches to the driver's side metal pipe at the engine and the driver's side of the rad . Just remember from the engine pipe connections out the hoses do not cross each other.

stanyslaw · August 2005

after setting the timing and I putt everything back together got the atf hoses right and refilled the car with transmission fluid I let the car run to warm up and to burn off old gas/fumes out of the exhaust it didn't stall. the car while in park no more overheating, the engine wasn't shaking or making no noises. I put the car in drive and eased my way pressing the gas and at that slight touch I started hearing a sound excuse my grammer like a farting sound puut, puut, puut it soon stop pushing the gas pedal further down but the car wasn't picking up. I'm at a stop sign it stalls but starts right back up pu,pu, pu sound then I get on a straight away trying to build speed up which it did after easing my foot on the gas pedal slowly if I pushed hard it would slow the car up and probably would shut off but I didn't let that happen, and coming up on a hill forget it a turtle would of beat me in a race! each light it would stall but it would start right back up. These two situations may have something to do with those symptoms I'm not sure this is why i'm asking but while taking off the mass airflow unit I broke a small connecting hose. also when I went to a lexus site showing me the spark plug connecting diagram 1990 to 1994 it showed on the right cylinder head front to back 2-4-5-8 on the left cylinder head front to back 1-3-6-7 which after seeing that I changed mines to that before it was 2-4-6-8 right cylinder head and the left cylinder head 1-3-5-7 so basically I switched the #5 wire on right cylinder head with the #6 wire on the left cylinder head. which way is correct? The car didn't get hot, it didn't jerk no loud popping noise

stanyslaw · August 2005

I glued and taped that broken plastic connector with hose on mass airflow unit which the puut, puut stopped and the power is alot better but I need to replace that part asap cause its not sealed well. but I'm still concern about the spark plug wires I switched

dhanks2 · August 2005

Recently on a long trip the lexus slowed to a stop and died. waited 20 minutes trying to call out of the desert, with out success, the car started and I slowly made my way to Kingman Arizona. Had the fuel filter changed. Car ran like normal for about a month, and I returned to California. Then after twenty minutes driving in the city it started hesitating, chugging and I slowly made it home. Any ideas what could be wrong. check engine light did not come on. Many thanks Del

wwest · August 2005

Fuel pump.

paul29 · August 2005

On the driver's side ( left ) the cylinder numbers are the odd ones ie. 1-3-5-7 front to back , on the pass side ( right) are the even numbered cylinders 2-4-6-8 front to back, all v engines are laid out this way . Now using this layout of the cylinders and you are standing in front of the car , start from the driver's side and go across both dist caps , you see ten terminals , eight are for plugs and two are for the coils . The first terminal wire from the driver's side ( on the driver's side cap ) is # 1 cyl , second is #7 cyl , third is the left coil wire , the fourth is #6 cyl, the fifth is #4 cyl that's the left dist cap , now continuing in the same direction on the right cap starting on the driver's side ( of the pass side cap) the sixth wire is #5 cyl , the seventh is #3cyl , the eighth is a coil wire , the nineth is #8 cyl , and the tenth and last is #2 cyl . It can be confusing as these twin dist systems fire alternately . The actual firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

stanyslaw · August 2005

I was jumping it wrong with the clip but I found a diagram on how to jump it here are the series of the check light flashing 1time-2time-1time-3time-1time-4time-4time-1time then it start over again.what does this mean?

paul29 · August 2005

You have 4 codes 12,13,14,41 . The first three relate to RPM signal and ignition , no doubt caused in your attempts to start/run the car after the botched repair by the mechs . The fourth is a throttle position sensor problem which you probably had originally . Now you want to erase the codes , At the fuse box in front of the radiator fill tank ( the rad cap is on the rad fill tank ) and behind the battery , loosen the two screws with a penny or coin of some sort remove the cover and turn over, inside you will see a diagram of the fuses/relays and a white fuse removal tool setting on a mount . Use this tool to remove the EFI fuse ( 20amp yellow ) for twenty secs or more with the ignition switch off . then reinsert it . Now start and take the car for a drive if you can . When you return , do the code reading again . Are you having fun yet !!

stanyslaw · August 2005

this time the codes came back 13 and 41, you said the 13 is ignition related I believe my intial timing is off making the car lack of power retarded timing if so how do I correct that

stanyslaw · August 2005

It just spin over and over no start

stanyslaw · August 2005

I redone the code check and only code 24 comes up, well the last time it was started for like 15 seconds I had the mass airflow sensor unit off then I cut it off but now it won't start up again with the mass airflow sensor on

paul29 · August 2005

Code 13 refers to a problem in the engine speed sensor area could be an open or short in the circuit , or speed sensor plate on backwards ( concave side should be to the front ) or teeth missing/bent or connector not on properly , or even a problem with the timing belt which you have replaced , etc. The plate and sensor can be seen in the link in post 1657 on page 36 the plate and teeth are self evident , the pickup and connector are at the bottom right corner. Now each time you think you have found or fixed something , cancel the codes and re try the car , then reread the code/s. The event which caused code 13 could be related to the belt coming off maybe damaging the sensor or teeth , or the parts were not re installed and connected correctly as more than one person has been playing with it .

paul29 · August 2005

Get your damaged air flow/mass unit repaired/replaced before you do anymore and a tip , do not start the car unless you have every thing hooked up , you are generating codes which have nothing to do with your original problem .

stanyslaw · August 2005

I took off the crankshaft pulley and timing cover and the round metal plate is bent I think i put it on backwards was hard to get off. is it best to replace it are they expensive? I'm trying to understand why my car won't start, when it was starting and I was driving it yesterday the car wasn't having power which I think it was retarded timing which has something to do with the ignition timing would driving it or running it like that can make the ignition timing worst to the point it won't start? do code 41 or 13 has any link to why it won't fire up

paul29 · August 2005

Yes , can be related , replace the timing disk behind the pulley it has 12 teeth and must be mounted mounted with the concave ( dished ) side out . The teeth should align approx with the center of sensor at the bottom right of the picture , but not touch it of course and it is positioned by the key on the crank nose . Should not be expensive but you may have to order as there would be no call for it normally . When taking mechanical units apart I use a "marks a lot " or similar felt marker to identify and indicate position of the removed pieces to facilitate reassembly , some times you are days before you get back to the job and can forget . This part is no doubt the cause of your code 13 . The code 41 is related to your tps - throttle position sensor , this is the main tps not the sub tps ( your car can have two tps's if it has traction control), this is probably why your car was stalling/stumbling /hesitation - poor idle before the tim/ belt failed .You will need a new one , don't pay to get it diagnosed , the diagnosis will cost more than the part , about $80 range ..There is an upgraded tps available for your car , it is part # 894520-22090 , make sure this is the one you get at a dealer , the number is on the head of the tps. As far as installation of the TPS , I would get a dealer to do it as the adjustment procedure is critical . Some have just put it on in the same position but that is not the way to go . It must be adjusted properly and you should have a good multimeter to do it , a Fluke 88 or similar is what a good shop would use . Forget using any local mech for this one as they don't have the manuals .After getting the disk and air flow sensor repaired/ installed and everything buttoned up , disconnect the battery for a few minutes , then reconnect and then try your re start . The car ran with the original tps so it should also run now at least enough to get it to the repair shop.

crazydiamond · August 2005

My 1990 lexus LS400 has no heat, the air condition is cold as ice, but the heater doesnt work, the local mechanic said the hatch would not open to let the hot air in, does anyone have an idea to what might be the problem? Im hoping this is just a common problem that is easy to fix, if not then I will probably have to go to a dealer, thanks alot.

wwest · August 2005

The hot water flow control valve is mounted under the hood at the top center of the firewall. The same servomotor that moves the mixing vane (hatch...??) also opens and closes the hot water flow valve via a cable coupling.

If you look at the push/pull cable on the water valve it should move from fully open at max heat to fully closed at max cooling.

lexus_admirer · August 2005

When I turn the steering left or right, I heard the noise ozz....ozzz. Can someone tell me what's wrong with the steering ? power steering ? steering pump ? how much would it cost to fix the problem ? my car is 105K miles, 1994 LS 400. I live in Sacramento, California. Any best places to fix or get diagnostic ? Thanks for your input.

:confuse:

crazydiamond · August 2005

Thank you wwest for your reply, I took it to a mechanic and he said that the motor doesnt work, it wont open the hatch, do you know how much this would cost to get fixed at a dealer? thanks.

Lexus_admirer,

I have had and are still having the same problem, my power steeting pressure hose had a leak, so the power steering fluid was leaking, that is why the steering wheel makes that sound, apparently it is common in lexus ls400s, I just bought a new power steering pressure hose on eBay for about $120, it would cost about $300 at a dealer, I am still having that problem, the local mechanic said it might be the rack and pinion or something, I will get that looked at, but check the place where you park and see if there is steering fluid that have leaked from your hose.

wwest · August 2005

I would manually move the water valve under the hood to the fully open position first to see if you then get heat. It is not at all unusual for the cable from the servomotor to slip off at the water valve end so I would assume the same thing can happen at the vane/hatch servomotor end.

So the servo motor might(!!) be still working, moving the mixing vane/hatch, but with no hot water flow to no good result.

lexus_admirer · August 2005

Thanks for your reply crazydiamond. There was no leaking on floor when I moved my car. The power steering fluid is still full.

billw94ls400 · August 2005

There are 2 charcoal filters in the passage way of the cabin A/C-heater system. Does anyone know how to replace them?

billw94ls400 · August 2005

I had this same problem. In your power steering reservoir tank, there is a very fine screen (they call it a filter) that screens the fines out of the circulating fluid. When the fluid get old and starts to break down, this screen will not allow circulation of the fluid, and the pump suction becomes starved, therefore making the sound. You need to remove the pump with tank intact, take the tank off, and back flush the screen to clean. After cleaning, reassembly, and refilling with new fluid, startup and turn the wheel lock to lock (2 or 3 times), to remove any air. I suggest you periodically suck out (verrrrry carefully, so to not damage the screen) the accumulated fines, and replace with fresh fluid. Use plastic tubing on a syringe.

wwest · August 2005

Sorry, I overlooked something fundamental.

A 1990 water valve may have become so clogged with coolant "debris" that it will not move. That would undoubtedly restrict the cable travel and stall the mixing vane/hatch servomotor

billw94ls400 · August 2005

I had this same problem, and I thought it was a leaking power steering hose too. As it turned out, the fluid was leaking out the power steering pump's reservoir tank.
In your power steering reservoir tank, there is a very fine screen (they call it a filter) that screens the fines out of the circulating fluid. When the fluid get old and starts to break down, this screen will not allow circulation of the fluid, and the pump suction becomes starved, therefore making the sound. You need to remove the pump with tank intact, take the tank off, and back flush the screen to clean. After cleaning, reassembly, and refilling with new fluid, startup and turn the wheel lock to lock (2 or 3 times), to remove any air. I suggest you periodically suck out (verrrrry carefully, so to not damage the screen) the accumulated fines, and replace with fresh fluid. Use plastic tubing on a syringe.

stanyslaw · September 2005

where is the throttle sensor located on 1992 ls400

jerry5505 · September 2005

You probably need a new battery. I had to have a new battery put in my 2004 LS 430. It sounds like what mine did before I had a new battery put in.

jerry5505 · September 2005

What are we going to do if the State puts 10% Ethanol in the gasoline we burn since the book tells us not to burn Ethanol. Minnesota already does this according to the Omaha World Herald. In the year 2012 they are going to add 20% Ethanol in the gasoline.

glo44 · September 2005

:confuse: I own a 91 Lexus LS 400, and my sterio isn't working right...
I am a female and I don't know to much about this problem. I don't want to take it to a lexus dealer because they will rip me off.. Here is my problem:
I can hear my cd player and the radio but I have to turn it up all the way. It use to be louder and the sound was better. Can anyone help me....

sv7887 · September 2005

Glo44,
Perhaps the Amplifier is out of order? Any decent stereo shop can check this for you. I think it is underneath the rear seat. There are two black tabs that you pull out and lift the seat out. You can always get another amplifier from TAP Auto Recycling, or replace it with whatever you'd prefer.

SV

glo44 · September 2005

SV,
Thanks you, It sounds like the Amplifer is out. I am going to check it out
tomarrow. I appriciate your help.

stran66 · September 2005

Hello everyone, I don't know if this is the same problem or not but here is my problem and hope that someone can help me out. Sometimes I was driving and the engine shift to high gear and the RPM will not goes past 2000. However, the car is moving slowly up to speed. It does that intermittently. Recently, the overdrive display lighting is flashing not all of the time but only sometimes, could that be a code repair? Please help. Thanks. By the way, I have flushed out the transmission fluid already and it doesn't help.

stran66 · September 2005

check for any leaks, the condition of the interior, check the AC make sure it works and check all tires, one more thing, check for accidents.

stran66 · September 2005

Don't be embarrassed, next time you change your brake pads, use organic type and it will solve your problem.

stanyslaw · September 2005

what is the crank angle plate function riding the magnet of the crankshaft sensor does it have anything to do with the car starting? if so, does the plate and magnet has to be lined up a particular meeting point or just long as they are close to each other. I'm asking because when I went to take off my crankshaft sensor whoever had this car in the past had broken the sensor mount and had it glued put back somewhat and when I put pressure on loosing the bolt the mount came down. I'm going to have to have it welded back on I need to know if the crank angle plate and magnet has to be lined up a particular way and certain distance from each other.

deadair · September 2005

Is there an electrical contact on the passenger side seat belt? When the seatbelt is connected it goes slack. When you disengage it, the belt rewinds.

wwest · September 2005

It helps a great deal if the leading and trailing edges of the brake pad material is chamferred. Some of the newer brake pads now come this way.

Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

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