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Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kimsingerkimsinger Member Posts: 12
    Two years ago, in a unsuccessful attempt to fix a small shifting problem, a transmission specialist I went to decided to flush out the original factory-fitted Toyota Type IV gearbox oil and replace it completely with Dexron (2, I think.)

    Can anyone suggest what, if any, the likely implications of this switch from the recommended lubricant may be for the long-term future? Thanks.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    I had a similar situation with my LS, vibration underneath and could not isolate , car was on warranty at the time. Dealer got equipment from Lexus and sensors were placed on various points on car .During a test drive readings were taken and then sent to Lexus ,shortly thereafter the dealer was told to change out the driveshaft. Absolutely no vibration afterward. The constant velocity joints on the rear axels could be your problem and also the driveshaft angles are critical for smooth transmission of power to the rear diff. All these parts are expensive so time spent identifying the defective part will not be wasted. Also the driveshaft can be balanced at a balancing shop by changing bolts in the rear flexible coupling , there are 5 different bolt weights available for adjustment or the shop can weld tabs on the shaft. The target value is 3gr. or less unbalance.All parts should be marked so can be installed same position as before.
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    No the power steering fluid in all my cars is kept clean, the alternator had 190K miles on it, some things just fail because of age. Awhile back you had told the group that they should flush the air conditioning system out to keep the oil fresh, I have yet to find anyone in the A.C. field that goes along with that one. Can you tell us what things that Toyota has re designed to fail quicker.?
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    The right fluids are more important these days than ever, why would anyone risk their transmission on something not recommended by the OEM. If it were my car I would get that stuff whatever it is out of the car. The fact that the car seemed to be better after the trans fluid change, more than likely just means you needed a fluid change but not to Dexron. Dexron 3 replaced 2.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Lexus designed a special longer lasting [less heat sensative] ATF, that is not substitutable even by Mobil 1 ATF.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    As the LS evolved, the handling was improved with each redesign. As the wheels increased from 15" to 16" to 17" the unsprung weight [tire, wheel, brake rotors, 4 piston calipers, etc] increased, thus to maintain the ride the suspension components were switched to aluminium to compensate for the weight increase. The tension rod design was changed and lightened.
    Generally this results in more stress on the various bushings and sooner failure of these components.
    In a severe curb hit [highway divider] or climb and bash the level of damage [cost] is more on the newer 98 design.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    "you had told the group that they should flush the air conditioning system out to keep the oil fresh, I have yet to find anyone in the A.C. field that goes along with that one. "

    Are you speaking to engineers who design the systems or shops that make their living replacing components?
    We had the same problem in getting owners to understand the importance of transmission fluid exchange......the shops were against anything that prolonged life as it decreased their revenue!

    Understand WHY an evaporator begins to leak and why the $500 parts cost $500 in labor to replace.
    Understand WHY the $800 compressor fails.
    People want a cheap fix and shops want a short life fix [a month or two beyond the 12 month warranty is GREAT]......anything more is taking food from their children.
    A QUALITY new or rebuilt compressor should last almost as long as OEM [after all they were designed to have 0 to 3% failure for the first 6 years. But there are grades and cost differences in rebuilds and inexpensive Malaysian copies of OEM evaporators [lighter weight and thinner more porous aluminum].....sure you can save $200-$300 but you get to pay again soon.
    Always use OEM replacement parts [and these may not even be the same superior quality as the new build parts] as the labor component is significant.
  • lexor2lexor2 Member Posts: 11
    Howdy, While driving at about 40-50 mph and hitting the trottle to aclerate. I feel a slight thump from the rear. Not so much a noise as a lag in response to acceleratiion. I can eliminate this by slowly easing the trottle forward. My car is a '94 LS and I also had noticed this in my '90 LS. I unerstand the Lexus has no U-joint, but uses some kind of rubber bushing. Could wear of the bushing (if there is one) be the cause of this problem? Thanks much.
  • kimsingerkimsinger Member Posts: 12
    From reading a number posts both here and elsewhere about the importance of Toyota's own highly-regarded brand of ATF to the smooth operation of our transmissions, I am perfectly clear now about the fact that all ATFs are not the same. Today, I would not consider switching to any alternative lubricant

    Two years ago, however, when this flush-through procedure was done, I had owned the car for only a couple of months and was not so well-informed about this issue. Besides, I was given every assurance by the operator of this equipment - who, as I've said, is a professional transmission specialist (although not specifically Toyota) that the Dexron ATF he would flush through my transmission was at least as well-specified as any other ATF on the market at the time. (By this time, I had already been specifically told by my Lexus/Toyota dealership to consider replacing as much of the existing ATF as possible, so when I heard about the only guy in the UK with ATF flushing equipment, I paid him a visit. (Dexron was the only option available for the flushing procedure.)

    So, rightly or wrongly, the Dexron is now installed, and total removal is not really an option unless I could find someone with the same extremely rare flushing equipment who also happens to work with the specialist Toyota ATF instead of the more generally used Dexron.

    The question I'd like to know the answer to, therefore, is what is the worst that could happen if the Dexron is left in. (Two years later - and 8,000 miles since it was put in - I have not noticed anything untoward yet. the car has done around 32,000 miles in total).
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The same result can be achieved by disconnecting the cooler return line at the trans and diverting it's flow through a hose to a suitable container. Have an assistant start the engine with the wheels off the ground, and shift through the gear ranges while it's idling. Add fresh ATF at the rate it's being pumped out until what's coming out is clean, new fluid. Don't run it longer than required with the cooler line disconnected as cooler return provides the trans gearset lubrication.
  • kimsingerkimsinger Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, alcan, for the tips on exchanging the ATF - some excellent advice there. But can you - or anyone else for that matter - advise me about what, if anything, would be likely to happen if I did nothing and simply left the Dexron in? I mean, is it really worth the trouble of taking it out?
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    the early LS400 transmissions seemed to last a long time [200,000 miles plus] in comparison to BMW and Infiniti. We think that this is the result of the Higher temp, better quality, more expensive Syn Base T4 fluid and the drain requirements which hopefully get done by the dealers.
    Dexron II,III, IIIe, IV is a minimum specification description not a brand!
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    Cause it sure is expensive.
  • oldsman01oldsman01 Member Posts: 1,203
    I've never heard of flushing an A/C system unless it is being repaired. An A/C system is a sealed system and if properly evacauated when charged, it doesn't need flushing unless the sealed system gets damaged. I had an 89 Olds that never needed the A/C system touched and still put out ice cold air after 10 years of driving. Think of your refrigerator or heat pump in your home. How long do those typically last. Again, unless the sealed system is damaged, there is no need to flush it. If your car is a pre 1994(R-12 system), you don't want to touch the A/C system unless you want to spend $$ converting it to R-134a and have it not cool as good. I'm all for maintaining a car properly, but A/C systems are one thing that need very little maintenance unless they fail.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    the Failure.

    R134a molecules are much smaller in size [permiate thru microscopic holes in hoses] than the Obsolete R12 and R22 in home AC is a different animal also.
    "all for maintaining a car properly, but A/C systems are one thing that need very little maintenance unless they fail. "

    When something fails that is a repair not maintenance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    The root case of most auto AC failure is moisture getting into system and the dryer at capacity unable to absorb anymore moisture so the water stays in and free to form acids.
    If the silica jell in dryer is wet the cheap solution is evacuation, dryer replacent, and repressurize.
    In the past owners just topped up the Freon as it leaked out [today this is illegal and a felony].
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Why there are so many Airconditioning and transmission repair shops -- because owners don't proform need maintenance allowing these expensive components to fail.
    Why does a repair only carry a 1 year warranty because the repair does not address the reset of the system which may just be hanging on.
    If owners changed all the fluids [diff, brake, ps, ATF, coolant, etc] on an annual basis more than half these shops would be out of business as the failure levels would drop dramatically!
    Warning many dealer services are not full fluid changes [suck out the reseviors and master cylinder, drain the pan, drain the radiator---only removing a third of the contamination].
    After all they can hardly wait till the warrranty runs out [so they can start to make some real money on your car].

    Ac maintenance should be done around every 60k or 4-5 years to prolong the life of the compressor and evaporator as combined they are over $2,000 to replace on an LS400.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    of A/C maintenance shops. Jiffy Cools and Quickie Chills all over the place.
  • blkmgkblkmgk Member Posts: 54
    can anyone give me a detail step by step on replacing the front brakes on my 96 ls400. I've replaced them on my older 93 ls 400. I know that the ones on my 96 are bigger. also , special tools needed? I already bought napa-ceramix pads.
    thanks!
  • freddyvonfreddyvon Member Posts: 5
    Hello ~
    I am at 99,000 miles on my 1994 LS and I am due for service @ 100,000 and some change, and well what do they do (Lexus) @ 100,000 mile service. Q45man What Fluids sould I have Changed in this service or is it just a regular service and what is the average cost. Also how do I know when my Water Pump goes (my engine temp rises??)ok thank you.
    Paul
    **Also I am somewhat sad about reaching 100,000 miles , is this normal :( **
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    because you know you soon will be making payments again.
    You should have all the fluids changed completely [diff, brakes, ps, coolant, transmission, traction? every year plus the oil every 90 days if you want to hit the above numbers with little repair expense.
    Don't accept the bull that Lexus doesn't recommend and make sure they change it all not just drain a portion of it.
    Be especially concerned with the Power Steering as this is a common problem!
    They can hardly wait for something expensive to fail they are drooling with anticipation. But that's what they are in business for to REPAIR failed items. Extra preventative maintenance goes against a good business plan and lowers ultimate profits!
    The water pump leaks out the weep holes and stains the front of engine....look for red dried coolant slime.
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    A.C.system if it is under pressure, if the system is not open to air,like for maintence, then there is no way for moisture to get in, it would seem that opening the system for any reason will do more damage than good.
  • husskhussk Member Posts: 3
    Just bought a 93 LS 400 with 100K and was trying to get some information about traction control. Took in for a new power steering pump and they said needed new brake pads. So when putting on front left pads, tech said the pin from the caliper slide was frozen . Tech freed and cleaned pin. Said caliper bracket or caliper assembly may need replaced in future.

    Driving the car home from the dealer I started getting the trac light on. I never had the light come on before I took it in for service. I
    turned off the engine and restarted and it goes a way for a while. Not exactly sure why TRAC light comes on. No other lights come on just the TRAC light in the center of the speedometer.

    Any information on traction control or if any one else had this problem is appreciated.

    Also with new power steering pump on any suggestion to make sure I don't have another big expense with the power steering.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    This indicates you may have a fault code registered in the Trac ecu. On the 91LS stored codes can be viewed by connecting a wire between the Tc and E1 terminals of the TDCL under left side of dash or preferably the easier to get at "check connector" on top of the engine (a little grey plastic type box with a flip top) Look inside the cover for a location diagram for the two terminals.The procedure is as follows !/ Turn on ignition, 2/ connect two terminals above, 3/ read code or codes from Trac light on instrument cluster by counting the blinks .The codes are all two digit with a pause between digits ,except the normal code which is a continuous blink without pauses .My book shows 26 different codes starting at 11 and ending at 56. Your car is newer so may have a couple more . Your dealer can tell you what the codes if any indicate or post here and I will give you the indication if I have it. It could be as simple as a disconected wheel speed sensor wire or low brake fluid as this happened just after having brake work. Also ,as a bulb check ,when car is first started all indicator lights should come on for about 3 secs then go out. Good luck
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    blendair of texas has "new" ac compressors for 1990-95 ls 400 for $500 or so. i bought one on e-bay for $355.00. the parts man told me they sell them over the counter for around this amount.the parts are bought from toyota overseas and assembled in texas, according to him.
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    Yes I agree with your A.C. post. To hussk if your trac control messed up after your brake pads were replaced this is a dealer problem take it back, the sensors for your trac are also your sensors for the ABS.They probably got dirt or they messed with the alignment of the sensors or worst broke one of the sensor wires by stressing it. How much did they charge you for your power steering pump? If you want to avoid pump problems just get a turkey baster and suck out some fluid from the top filler once a year to keep it fresh, it will take 4 or 5 times of sucking and running the engine in between, but it is cheap maintenance and it does not take very long, also if you want to go the Max buy the LUCAS power steering lube and as you remove the old fluid replace with the LUCAS fluid. Also Lube Guard makes some great stuff, used by many PROs.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Otherwise you would understand that the molecular sizes of R12 and R134a vs gas permeabilty of the hoses are germane to the discussion.

    A sealed system is relative [sealed enough to not let much of the gas leak out] or sealed enough to not let water molecules leak in.

    When the compressor is not running the pressures drop tremendously thus the need for a dryer to absorb the moisture that leaks in when the system is at rest.


    http://www.apainfo.com/pdf/permeability.pdf


    The above has charts for water vapor permeability of many different hose types and gasket materials.

    Unfortunately many automobile ac systems have some type of rubber hose to allow the fixed to engine ac compressor to move against the frame rigid rest of ac system [remember motor mounts allow the engine to twist under acceleration]!

  • blkmgkblkmgk Member Posts: 54
    My current problem is that my brake sensor light is on. It stays on-thats the problem.
    I just replaced my front pads, and visully inspected the sensor, no visual damage. I had the rear pads replaced along with the rotors. (96LS400) Had a new sensor put on the rear as well.
    Anyone come across a situation similar to this?
    I know its a minor thing, but the sensor light is kind of annoying when its lit on all the time-even though your brakes are fine.
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    Even glass and metal has permeability you still have not shown any practical reason to open and flush a working auto A.C. system. Show us some real world information that recommends this as a maintenance service. All the information I have seen even the OEM. does not recommend opening the system for this.
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    The first gen LS 400 didn't use the electronic sensors for the brake pads, they used the old tried and true little metal tab that gives a high pitch squeal when the linings got low,the second gen added the sensors to the brake system and they are troublesome in that they are damaged as the pads get worn down, I believe the fix is going to be replacement of the sensor that has not been replaced.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Why would the OEM care if it lasts beyond the 60k warranty by using as design life of 100k, they spend little prior to this point. Less than 1/3 of new buyers care as they sell prior to warranty expiration and many are leased and resold.
    Yes Toyota is concerned about the Lexus reputation [to keep resale price high so new prices can be inflated] but the dealers need revenue to keep service department profitable.
    So don't be surprised if engineers are forced to underdesign a few things to fail...just after warranty. Likewise the dealers will not offer advice which will decrease future revenue as the service center is a separate profit center.
    The current trend is to minimize mainteance expense since non informed owners equate low mainteance with a lower cost of operation....in the short run.
    At our INDEPENDENT facilities we servicee over 2200 Lexus [of all models and years---usually older than 1998 includes many 90,91,92,93,94,95].
    The major failure areas are PS, Alternator, AC system, and lighted dash displays. Minor areas are suspension, radiator, windows and locks.
    After changing some 238 compressors and 247 evaporators in the past 5 years we have a feel for the Lexus systems.
    We have many clients with over 200,000 miles and a few with 300,000 miles on 1990-92 LS400.
    Our customers are different in that they are offered a list of failures [generated from our data base showing how many of what we have replaced on their model.....kind of a future headsup on what to look for and for bugetary planning. Each model is different and behaves differently in different temperature zones thus our data is only good for Atlanta or in the South at best.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    Lexus manual states air filter may be cleaned with compressed air. Personally I would not immerse in water as it is not expected to withstand full imersion in normal use. A fram replacement here, costs more than the OEM Lexus filter at dealer. The OEM Lexus filter appears to be a high quality unit with lots of capacity. It is a beautiful engine give it the best you can afford.
  • husskhussk Member Posts: 3
    Cost to replace power steering pump were $486 for pump $14 for gasket and Dextron II Trans Fluid and $70 for new belt. 3 hours of labor totaled $210 For a grand total of $780 plus tax.

    I hope this fixes the problem. Read about a possible valve that works in conjunction with pump.

    Hint to buyers of used lexus from individuals. Get the VIN number and get a printout of service performed at Lexus dealers. Found out previous owner was told of leaking PS pump and didn't repair it. I hope it was caught in time because could cause problems with alternator.

    In genral how long should the lexus alternator last?

    I also noticed battery was replaced at 33K and 36 months, replaced again at 67k and 32months with Lexus batteries.
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    i have never heard of lucas power steering fluid. why is it superior to any other p/s fluid , and where can you buy it? i have recently replaced my p/s pump, and want to make sure i have the best fluid.
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    Hi Lucas products can be found at Napa parts stores, I have not tried but they are also on-line, I think at Napa.com.
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    what i found at napa was lucas power steering stop leak. the guy at the counter said this was also ps fluid. is this what you are referring to?
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    Yes That is the stuff, I have used this and the Lubeguard, I replaced my power steering pump two weeks ago because my alternator went out and as long as I was all up in there and I have a pump sitting around that I had bought on E-bay I thought why not. When I replaced the pump I left the Idle control valve off the pump because these will start leaking over time and you will be losing power steering fluid and wondering where it is going, well it gets sucked into the Intake because this valve leaks over time.
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Member Posts: 811
    I know this should be on the Lexus SC3/4 board but I don't know if q45man lurks there as well..

    My son's buying a SC300, 5 speed, either a '95 or a '96, both of them with 75-80k miles.

    Any big $$ problems to look out for?

    I know about the front suspension control arms and bushings going bad, allowing the front end to wobble with alignment problems, etc. - and that's an expensive one to fix at a dealer, around $120--1300.

    I don't think the I6 has the same config up front as the V-8s - power steering assembly over the alternator etc.

    Anyway - any thing beyond the reg maint items to worry about? The one he really likes, a '95 5-speed with 78k, has been to the dealer every 5-10k miles since it was new; the timing belt was replaced at the 60k service and the clutch is relatively new.

    In advance - thanks!

    Jeff
  • djr7399djr7399 Member Posts: 24
    Well Gang,

    I was the one who started the talk about the pinging & knocking coming from the LS400 engine due to lower octave gas. Well just received the news from the dealer that it definitely wasn't the fuel. the lexus tech was baffled by the sound it was making, he thought it was the chrome center cap. we took the car for a test drive, got back to the dealership he lifted the hood,revved up the engine wham!! their was the noise, definitely wasn't the lifters out of tune, immediately he showed me what the problem was. He said LS400 engines were built like tanks.

    Come to find out, it is the e.g pipe sub assembly(whatever that is)(q45mam can explain this hopefully) a small pipe burst. $100 bucks for the pipe, Now the problem he said the trans has to be dropped for the pipe to replaced. Wow (I'm thinking trans dropped $$$$$ hmmm). Well bottom line, about $600 bucks for a $100 pipe.

    Well I guess I solved that pinging problem(never was one).

    Any suggestions?

    Love does dealers.

    dj
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    The book page EM40 says to Remove EGR Pipe, "Remove the three bolts,two nuts,EGR pipe and two gaskets." Its says nothing about dropping the transmission.
  • djr7399djr7399 Member Posts: 24
    rod,

    didn't really mean to doubt you but is that correct?
    hell if it's that easy, why on earth would he tell me they had to drop the trans? I'm going to call to find out how they came up with the notion of the trans being dropped, for some reason it's just doesn't sit well with me for them to take the route of dropping the trans for repairing a pipe.

    dj
  • roddmod11roddmod11 Member Posts: 55
    I just gave you information as it came out of the service manual. It shows it goes from the right exhaust manifold to the rear of the Air Intake Chamber. I have put it on my list of things to check out as I have heard of these pipes rotting out before.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Leaking valve cover gaskets, power steering dirt, egr pipe cracks, build up of crud inside intake after throttle plate.
    All V8/6 vacuum control modulator for EGR valve.
    Cracking coolant expansion tanks.
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Member Posts: 811
    EOM
  • djr7399djr7399 Member Posts: 24
    rod,q45man anyone lexus lover

    Listen to this, I got quotes from 2 dealership, the previous one that I always attend
    quotes me a price of $692 bucks for the eg pipe assly.(don't understand why)same tech said I had to have the trans removed. Now I called a 2nd dealership told them the same problem, they said the cost would be $345 w/o the dropping of the trans, only would be $220 if I retain the part, hell what a big difference, My ? what gives.
    Suggestions?

    dj
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Replacing the EGR pipe is very hard to do without pulling the transmission [depending on techs skill level] and whether he wants to get burns on his body [hand and body size]. Many normal sized techs cannot contort their bodies into the pretzel shape needed to attack the problem from the top. Some can buy or make special tools.
    If the car ties up his working space to cool down you have to pay for the time it sits. Obviously the part cost around $120.
    Obviously one dealer had a tech hungrier than the others or spare room to work on your car or both.
    The higher price quote was the correct way [by the book way].......you will find that some people with repetiton can learn tricks to save time whether they chose to share the fruits with you is up to them! Applies to many things on limited run lux cars.
    Why you should always shop around but at the same time make sure you are comparing apples to apples.
    I have seen some EGR tubes repaired with JB WELD which seems to last 6-12 months then the real replacement gets done if you can scrape/grind the mess away.
    Broken EGR tubes are the result of some abuse [accidents, hitting something, running over something, or bad motor mounts
  • djr7399djr7399 Member Posts: 24
    I think I will go w/ the 2nd dealer($345) I think he may be able to contort his body as you requested,also they said they warranty their work. I guess the pipe just worn out, I never had an accident,can't recall running over anything or hitting anything, hopefully it's not
    the motor mounts, by the way q, how could i tell if the motor mounts are bad?

    dj
  • codylabradorcodylabrador Member Posts: 18
    New to this forum and looking for help. I just bought my first Lexus - 94 LS 400 off of an auction site. In spite of asking about the dash, LCD and needle displays (and being told by the seller that they worked) the car arrived with the tach needle light burned out and the entire guage bulb display is out when the car is cold! My local dealer told me this is a common problem and I had to replace the circuit board and the entire tach needle assembly, not just the bulb. As I'm sure you know they wants big bucks ($1800) to fix these things. I have tried for help on several forums but no fix yet.

    I can't tell you the grief I have endured from my wife and friends for buying a car off of this well known auction site and "believing" the seller's representation rather than having an independent mechanic examine the car. I can't rewrite history so I am willing to try to fix this myself. I called DENSO (the supplier of the circuit boards) and they will not sell me a new board or exchange my board without going through the dealer. I have borrowed a used board (with another problem) that I can experiment on - so I hope some of you have investigated this problem.

    Questions:

    - I have got to believe that there is a common ground cracked or cold solder joint in the backplane or ribbon plane of the circuit board. When the car is warm the lights work! Has anyone found that a common component or solder joint goes bad on these boards that would cause a temperature-related complete outage of the lights while the temp, gas, seedometer and tach all still work? The circuit board part number is 83247-5A050RP.
    - Can anyone tell me how (or point me to instructions) to change the tach needle after I have removed the guage cluster? The tach needle part number is 83242-50050.
    -If I just buy a new circuit board and install it myself I understand it will show "0" mileage on the odometer. My car has 75,300 miles and I would like to keep it original - any suggestions on service outlets where I can go to set the correct mileage?
    - Any of you bought a "used" cluster and successfully swapped it out or have you found them to have the same problem?

    Im sure I'll eventually spend the $1800 on this Lexus doing some other upgrades - I just hate spending it on things that are already supposed to work. Thank you for any suggestions and help
  • codylabradorcodylabrador Member Posts: 18
    I need some advice. My 1994 LS 400 CD is skipping and the CD brush based "cleaners" help but just won't fix it. I'm working to remove the CD changer from the trunk and have taken out all the trim panels. The CD box is contained within the side panel and for the life of me I cannot see how to unsnap, unbolt, etc the thing. What is the secret? Does the side panel on the CD housing pry off or does the whole package pop loose (or something else)?

    Thanks for any advice....
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Sorry to hear your grief cody. There is always a risk with buying used cars, and worst, someone nag you about it after the car is brought home.
    I have read posts about problems similar to yours but none offers any solutions. Electrical problems can be very difficult and time-consuming to troubleshoot especially without relevant schematics but not impossible. Fortunately, I believe your problem is fixable.

    Here are my suggestions:
    1. Look for cracks under magnifying glass.
    2. Trace conducting lines for any breaks.
    3. Spray "freeze-it"(or something similar at electronic stores) to suspected parts while the instrument panel is fully powered to see if lighting behavior changes. If it does, you have found the problem area. Freeze-it is a aerosol can that sprays very cold gas.
    4. Retouch all relevant solder joints with a heat gun. You'll be surprise how many circuit boards can be fixed this way.
    5. Replace all relevant capacitors as their service life is about 10 years.

    Be patient, take your time, and goodlucks!
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    It has been a long time since I last removed the CD Changer so bear with me.
    1. Remove the first aid kit and the screws behind it.
    2. Remove the screws that hold the panel to the rear dash. These are the same screws you would need to remove if you were trying to gain access to the subwoofer. This step will make room for you to remove the CD changer panel.
    3. The CD changer panel interlocks at the edges of the panel with other adjacent panels, and I don't recall them fasten together with any type of fastener. Check to see if the CD changer panel is fasten to the car frame at the edges and remove if needed.
    4. Use lots of muscle here to break the panels free from there interlocks.
    5. Remove the panel from the trunk.

    The CD changer internal is complex and non-serviceable but do check for external and internal vibration mounts. Let us know how you make of the CD skipping problems.
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