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Nice PRACTICAL cars. Greman cars are more then that. I used to never understand it. Why would someone buy a Jetta GL over a Civic EX Sedan? The reason is that is some people want more and some want detail. The Jetta GL has less options, but the things that it does have are far superior. The Civic EX has everything, but the car still looks simple. I have never heard the word cheap used with VW. I never saw the difference until I owned a VW. Now it is night and day and I could never go back. My next car will probably be a BMW of some type. Are you going to tell me I should have bought a Acura? A person that wants a BMW is not going to drive an Acura. It will not even cross their mind. This post has no right answer. It is all about opinions. I say if you have the money go with a VW.
I do believe the VW Golf is built a little better, provides a more solid feel and decent road feel compared to a stock Civic HB. This is stock to stock. The Civic HB is more of an economy car with excellent gas mileage. I average 34-35mpg on the highway doing 80mph and never less than 31-32 in city driving with a heavy foot. My VW friend's average mid 20's. So anyway, just looking at the price difference and the options, the 2 cars cannot be compared together. Looks are objective, and the only thing they have in common is the hatch. I personally thing if I were going to spend $15K (price of a base Golf) I 'd probably get the Sentra SE which is more than comparably equipped and much much faster than any 2.0L Golf or Civic EX.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
carlady
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News & Views and Hatchbacks Message Boards
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
carlady
Host
News & Views and Hatchbacks Message Boards
I guess this was a trick question? :-)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
As for the Mustang GT and Type-R article. It is one of the best I have ever read in SCC. I love how they tried not to praise the Mustang GT for what it is. I was also surprised they compared a 25k Integra against a 22k Mustang. Why didn’t they use a 22k GSR against a 22k Mustang? That would have been a great story. I’m sure Hot Rod will do the same thing. Lets test a 25k Type-R against a 50k+ CobraR. Or better yet a CobraR against a NSX? When is Edmunds (or somebody) going to do a comparison test putting the ’01 GTI GLS 1.8T with 17’s against a GSR coupe? That is what we all really want to see.
As for the Mustang GT and Type-R article. It is one of the best I have ever read in SCC. I love how they tried not to praise the Mustang GT for what it is. I was also surprised they compared a 25k Integra against a 22k Mustang. Why not compare a 22k GSR against a 22k Mustang? That would have been a great story. Im sure Hot Rod will do the same thing. Lets test a 25k Type-R against a 50k+ Cobra R. Or better yet a Cobra R against a NSX? When is Edmunds (or somebody) going to do a comparison test putting the 01 GTI GLS 1.8T with 17s against a 01 GSR coupe? That is what we all really want to see.
Tommyhatchback, it's pretty easy to get some extra ponies out of that 2.0 of yours, but unless you want to spend the extra money to turbo it I would think about trading it in for the 1.8t instead. I had a 94 four banger that I invested alot of money in trying to get more power out of. To me the MK3 model had a better power to weight ratio compared to the MK4. The car tipped the scales at 2400 lbs. I purchased a European spec engine from German parts & Restoration out of CA for about 2k which out of the box produced 140hp and 138 ft/lbs of torque to the front wheels. You could do the same with your current car but you'd still be slower than the current 1.8t because of all the added weight the MK4 has. Not to mention that turbos also respond better to intake, exhaust, and chipping if you have that kind of stuff in mind.
Wordman93: Do you really think it's fair comparing a 260hp GT against a 170hp GSR?? The price may be the same but they 're 2 different cars.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I still wouldn't get a Mustang GT over the Type R though.
http://Edmunds.com/road tests/first drive/2000/ford/mustang/43944/index.html
I think the $55,000 CorbaR will beat a NIX on a track. A Z06 Corvette, BMW M3, and Viper GAS also will run with a NIX. Personally I would pick the new M3. At $47k (not 100% sure of the price, but at least 90% sure)it is a bargain. The M3 is an all out performance car that doubles as a German luxury coupe.
As for comparing the Mustang CT to a GAR. I think it is fair. Honda people always brag about performance to anyone that buys anything different. The only performance that matters to me is how fast it will go on a road course. A stock Mustang CT in most cases will be faster then a stock GSR. A Type-R will stay close because of its great handling and even beat it on a tight course, but it cost 3k more then a GT. I'm sure 3k would buy you the handling to match the Type-R. Fords CobraR parts bin would be a great place to start. You can argue we are comparing a 4-cylinder to 8-cylinder until you are blue in the face. It is just a way of denying defeat. I used to always make that argument when I lost to Corvette or 911 Turbo. There are many ways to build a sports car. Which is right? (High-RPM low displacement, Medium RPM-Large Displacement, or Forced Induction? FWD, RWD, or AWD?) I can't say. I just try to look at things from the other guys point of view. I do believe that RWD and 6 or more cylinders is a good place to start building a sports car though.
Check out this BMW M3 link. http://roadandtrack.com/RoadAndTrack/Article/jan2001/0101_bmw_m3_pg1.html
carlady
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News & Views and Hatchbacks Message Boards
This is my first post on the Edmunds TownHall and just wanted to share a little fact with everyone. My '89 VW Golf GL just surpassed the 150,000 mile mark today and it looks like she'll probably be merrily chugging along past the 200,000 mile mark. : ) I have read that a lot of people have been complaining about the reliability of VW's and I felt the need to mention that not all vehicles are necessarily error prone. This is my second VW and it has not had any major problems the entire time I have owned the vehicle, which is 6 years now. My father bought it brand new in '89 and aside from minor repairs he never had any trouble with it either. Before this one I owned a 1985 VW Jetta Diesel (probably the exact opposite of a turbo diesel) that had over 250,000 miles on it when I sold it. The thing had slower acceleration then a riding lawnmower, but it sure kept going and going and going... Anyhoo, just wanted to share my personal experience with VW's. : )
I'm looking at getting myself a brand-spanking-new 2001 VW Golf GTI GLS and was wondering if people feel the upgrade to the 17 inch wheels is a justifiable expense. As I've never had a car with anything even resembling extras I was wondering what people's input was on this. Is there really a noticeable difference between the 17's and the 15's?
carlady
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News & Views and Hatchbacks Message Boards
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
carlady
Host
News & Views and Hatchbacks Message Boards
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Before owning the Golf I had a 1981 Civic. The Honda burned oil like crazy (soft valves), the engine's 3-barrel carburetor vapor-locked during summer months, and frequent brake repairs on the car were costly.
Hondas are certainly more reliable today than 20 years ago, but I'll stick with my Golf. I prefer the way VWs shift, steer, handle and feel on the road. The only Japanese make I've driven that came close to the "feel" of a VW was a Mazda Protoge EX.
I thinking of buying a VW GOLF,
but I am unsure if I should get a CL or GL.
I want a 2 door version though, I want it to be a little sporty.
Unfortunately I don't have enough cash for a new one
so I am geting a 1995.
Can any one advise me on the GL or CL side of things... as in speed etc..?
Revka
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Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
one happy VW owner,
/davis.
I recalled seeing a a similar one over there. Did it have the fake HID (blue) bulbs & debadged rear?
After driving the car in the rain tonight, I feel the wheels are slipping too much when I drive it off the line, even with ASR working. I am looking to replace with 17" BBS by summer with all-weather tires. Any suggestions anybody? Also any such thing as short throw gear box for VW Golf/GTI ??
By the way, that was a great WRC segment tonight on SpeedChannel. Any one else catch it? Subaru is getting their butts kicked by the Peugeot team. I love those Peugeot 206s; wish they bring them here. I would love to see them compete with VW.
/davis.
So when are you going to chip it?
another 7,000 miles on my TDI...then it's getting chipped.
I usually watch the WRC coverage on Speed Channel. Those french hatchbacks are pretty nice looking.
2. I'm getting noises in the back seat. I'm not sure if it's the rear hatch cover or the seats itself that's making the noise.
3. I think the tire well is just enough for the 15" wheels with 205/65. To increase to 17" with really low profile tires will be very hazzardous in the City's many potholes. Perhaps I'll just stay with the 15" with Bridgestone Potenzas. I'll get 17" only for auto-crosses when I'm good and ready this summer.
/davis.
The chips, I'm planning Upsolute (www.upsolute.com). Check out www.vwvortex.com for local places (get an account and post around). Sometimes there may be a group event for chipping going on and there may be a group discount.
The stock 15" tire is 195/65 r15. If the previous owner put 205/65, he/she put the wrong size on. The gas cap should tell you the tire sizes and pressures.
Right now I'm going throught the same situation: 15's for snow tires, but which one 16's or 17's for summer. I'm also concerned about potholes as well.
Noises -- don't know. I got a dash rattle in mine.
I would definitely look into suspension changes. I'm going most likely neuspeed. I'm starting with a front strut tower brace, then anti-roll bars, then finally (a few years later, springs & struts/shocks). I first want to reduce the roll in the car.
1) will slow you down (heavier)
2) more expensive
3) more expensive tires
Go to a local autox and talk to the owners of cars similar to yours and you will learn a large amount of information. Good luck.
http://www.vwvortex.com/features/project_cars/golf_18t/part_3.shtml
/davis.
/davis.
Chem123: Yes I already know that. What I would really plan on doing would be to have a dedicated set of 16" tires and rims, wearing BFGoodrich G-Force T/A, exclusively for racing.
17 inchers, I like how they look on the GTI. Again, a dedicated set of summer tires. Finally the OEM 15" wheels for winter mounted on Blizzaks or Artic Alpines.
Though with 17" rims, generally, yes it will increase off-sprung weight, but if you carefully choose (and spend the money for it) a set of lightweight rims but suffer a little on tire weight.
For autocrossing people will recommend to you to inflate the your tires to max pressure, to increase the sidewall stiffness. Smaller sidewalls will naturally have less elongation than a taller sidewall.
I've already been in racing, for me, switching to a diesel is a new experience...heck I've seen people race with a 84 Town Car.
I believe a +35mm Offset.
If you have the OE 15" alloy wheels, it is printed on the wheel itself.
Engine:
Neuspeed: (www.neuspeed.com - www.greedspeed.com)
Downpipe - 7HP gain
Turbo air inlet pipe - increases air into the turbo by 70% - 7HP gain
Turbo XS diverter valve - no increase in HP, sounds cool and nicely made, increased durability.
APR Chip upgrade (www.goapr.com) Upsolute, Neuspeed, Garrett chip upgrades are nice, but the nicest and one of the most expensive is the APR - check out their website. Over 230 HP and 235 pounds of torque all with stock drivability just a lot more :-)
K&N air filter - a Must - these are fantastic, I put them in all my cars. You can get them from APR -
Suspension:
Neuspeed Racing springs - I live in Florida with glass smooth roads - not recommended up north - I love these springs.
Neuspeed upper strut stess bar.
Near Future:
Exhaust - A must - not sure which one I'll get - doing my research.
Neuspeed 28mm rear sway bar - a must for autoX
Bilstien or Koni shocks -
I want to install a short shifter kit of some sort - doing my research here as well - lots of them on the market - the cheapest is an Audi TT linkage that bolts right up - $30 from the Audi dealer and reduces throw 20%.
There are a variety of parts from the TT that you can use to upgrade your GTI - the TT is based on the Golf platform most everything is the same.
/davis.
rickrover
I heard the TT shift linkage isn't that great of an improvement. That's a personal issue (from www.vwvortex.com).
You can use the TT front rotors, but it totally eliminates the usage of 15" rims. Since it doesn't snow in Florida, it's not a concern.
d7sub
Turbo timers, in the A4, there was a incompatibility issue with the factory alarm. It could be the same for the A4 platform 1.8T's as well. "Normal" driving, being light on the turbo, you don't really need to let it idle, but it doesn't hurt to idle for a 30 seconds to 1 minute.
In the more "spirited" drives and/or lead foot drivers, best to let it idle for a few minutes.
I typically let my car idle (TDI) for about 30 seconds in a normal drive.
Use your best judgement. Wasting some gas is cheaper than a new turbo.
/davis.
I think you mean powershifting. But it's going to kill your synchros & your clutch.