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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • Be careful how you define "high mileage" for a Geo. I'm the second owner of a 1993 that is still on the road every day. During the Summer it gets between 45-50 mpg which drops to 40-45 mpg during the Winter. It has the original engine that has only been opened-up once during it's life.

    The little car will be retired this Summer, when I get a replacement car, as the A/C finally quit for good. I may bury it in the back yard or make a dog house out of it.

    Oh, did I mention that the Metro has 344K miles on it - that's right - 344K.
  • kreuzerkreuzer Posts: 127
    I'm needing some info. on the idler pulley for my '96 Geo Metro 1.4L 4 cyl. At least I think it's the idler pulley that's making the noise! Is it difficult to change this if, indeed, it's this making the noise? I would like to change it myself if possible to keep the price down. I was told I could purchase the part for $10-15. Any help and helpful hints for replacing this? Thanks.
  • any one kno of a website where i can buy a cylinder head for a 1997 geo metro lsi (1.3)????????

    i found a few on ebay... but i was wondering if anyone knew of a good website to buy a head....
  • Hey everyone,
    I've decided to get a Metro for the fuel efficiency, but I've found it's hard to find a good used one that isn't overpriced. Consequently, I've found a 92 Geo that I'm going to go look at tomorrow and pick up if it's in good enough shape, but I was told when I talked to the guy on the phone that the dash is cracked and looks like it's spent time in the sun (I'm in AZ.....I know, right?). So I thought perhaps I might just replace the whole dash if I could find one. I haven't tried looking around yet. I figured that if anyone might know where to find one, it'd be all of you. Any suggestions?

    It sounds like there might be some work I might have to do to bring it up to my standards, so I will probably be back to pick your brains.
    I'm looking forward to getting some good use out of a Metro.

    Thanks for any help!
  • Hi there,
    This fellow member of the Quebec swift club has a dash for you.
    Geo-Swift-Firefly...all the same b99bc02bb9e96c

    good luck, shipping to the States present no problems.
  • Please does anyone know what the fuel filter look like? and the location of the fuel filter? Is it the white squarish plastic box located on the drivers side of the tank? or is it in the gas tank? thanks
  • Hey y'all from Richmond VA

    I know I'm in the right place because there are some seriously knowledgeable people answering questions on this web site's forums; I sure can use your help now--BIG TIME!!!

    I know I'm dealing with a head gasket issue but its not as bad as it might seem--at least not yet. What is bad, however; I can't locate the "Chilton" Repair Manual to get me through this. :cry: I've tried everything, researched libraries, websites, etc. and have visited every place I can think of with zero results.

    Is it possible that one of y'all can direct me to where I can locate, possibly buy, the "The Chilton Book Company Repair and Tune Up Guide GEO Metro 1992'. Am I perhaps searching under the wrong title? I just don't know.

    Anything and everything y'all can do to help me with my dilemma will be MAJOR appreciated. I just bought the head casket kit tonight but before I do any serious work on my "Little Red Convertible" I'd sure like to know I've got that Chilton Book in my corner! ;)

    Thank you so very very much for your help.

    Have a good one!
  • Ecu
    I had that exact problem and can't tell you this was the fix all. However, I know after doing it, a buddy who is a chief mechanic told me about it, it no longer does it!!

    I am now "alternating" gas tank joke--regular then super unleaded AND I NEVER EVER use anything but Amoco/BP--haven't bothered with the midgrade as that's what he told me to do. So help me ecu, I've not had that problem since and I've been doing it for years now. My GEO Metro LSI Convertible is a 1992 and my baby!

    Try it hun! Hope it works for you like it did for me! I'd like to hear if you have the same good luck with this I do!


    P.S. Just as a "heads up"-- As we all know gas prices are through the roof and won't be getting better anytime soon but I did use a much "cheaper" brand gasoline and so help me, the same problem came back to haunt me. Once I got all remnants of the "cheaper" gas outta my baby, the blue smoke has never returned.
  • Try JC Whitney or your local auto parts store.
    google for Chilton's manual
    I had no problem finding lots of listings.

    Steve B.
  • billy508billy508 Posts: 1
    There is a ball check in the block. Did it happen to get lost when you rebuilt it?. Some engines have a restricter plug that screws in the head. Just a thought. More info on this at Team Swift. There also seems to be a issue with head gasket oil hole/drain alignment. I am building mine this week. Waiting for the machine shop to finish up. Take care and good luck. .
  • diputsenodiputseno Posts: 3
    I bought one for a 96 metro at a autoparts store----Autozone
  • diputsenodiputseno Posts: 3
    Hello everyone.....I have a 96 four door 1.3 with 160,000 on it.....its burning oil like crazy. The strange thing is the car does not smoke, not even a little bit. However when it is driven roughly 1000 miles it looses around 2 quarts of oil. So where is it going. Also, it is a 5 speed manual. When going through the gears it is great but when I get to the 5th gear it whines pretty loud and the dummy shift lift flickers. Other than that its a great little car. Thanks ahead of time for any input.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    WE will sell the Geo 94 to State of Calif for 1,000.00 goodbye Geo
  • Thank you so much hun. Yeppers, that's where I went and that's where I got my Chilton for my little red. Thanks again--Have a great day!

  • 9thirty39thirty3 Posts: 8
    Thanks for the response. After I took the head off I noticed that the check valve was gone. I dont know where it went.I got a new one at the Dealership for around $12 bucks.All it consists of is a small ball bearing in a screw.I dont think to much can go wrong with it.Anyway I have not found the time to put it all back together,to have a running metro.But the price of gas will certainly be a motivator to get it running again. How did your rebuild go? I hope it went well.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Posts: 40
    It seems to be more and more difficult to find parts...I guess the price of scrap,is causing the jnkyards to crush and sell everything in sight. I have a 1996 2 dr that needs a lot of rebuilding after an accident-hood,radiator,air filter housing, steering column switches,oil pan and drivers mieeir..all need to be replaced....anyone have "good sources" to recommend??? :sick:
  • eurocarmaneurocarman Posts: 1
    looking for the above or a reasonably priced complete car with bad mechanicals. Near the Indianapolis, Indiana area
    Thanks in advance
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    Good News:

    I will be depositing a 1994 Geo Metro in running condition to Pick Your Part in
    Stanton CA. this 3/31/08 tommorow. It is a two door hatchback 131,000 miles.
    It did not pass smog ,I think it is the CAT but the condo assc is getting hard to
    have three cars. My loss your gain. You must work fast. There phone number
    is (800)962-2277 this inside info call after 10:00 am!
  • tonyraytonyray Posts: 1
    Did you ever get this fixed?? Mine is doing the same thing.
  • geopetegeopete Posts: 2
    I got rear ended in my 93' 2Dr 1L 5spd Geo Metro Htchbck! I rebuilt the engine last year and it was running like a dream. The front and rear bumpers are shot the hood is crumpled up but the engine ran ok and I drove it home. My 94 was my spare parts car and it seems to running on 2 cyl. I'm thinking of swapping my 93 engine into the 94 body which is also a 2Dr 1L 5spd Geo Metro Htchbck. Are there any issues I should look out for? Saw in a previous note that 90-94 engines seem to be pretty much interchangeable as long as the body and transmission are the same. -Pete
  • No problem: Go for it.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    Be extremely careful that you put only 3.4 quarts of oil on a crankcase. Tustin Buick
    in California put 4 quarts in and the engine would fail on steep upward hills. Check
    and drain if you are putting to much in. I sold the GEO to State of Calif for
    1,000.00 I will miss the Geo it could still be at Pick your Part in Stanton CA.
    But they wrote Crush all over it.
  • Hello,
    I'm new to this forum. Lots of good info here. I have a problem with my Canadian built 94' Metro TBI 2dr hatchback. A couple of years ago it dropped a valve while crusing on the highway. I have finally purchased a Japanese engine off ebay. I dropped it in and buttoned everything up and now I don't have spark to the plugs. I don't hear the fuel pump either. This is a throttlebody engine with an auto trans. Could this problem be from a defective ECM or coil? The car sat for a long while (3 years) before I replaced the engine so, I cleaned all the grounds and even made new battery cables. I have replaced the dist. cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires. I tested the coil with a test light. It has power but I don't know how much since I don't have a voltmeter. I don't want to buy a new ECM or coil just yet since I don't know if that's the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Hi there Dan, if you can't hear the fuel pump, check to see if that ground is screwed in properly. It's quite well hidden in the rear of the engine, on top. Also check the relay for it in that black box sitting on top of the fender, driver's side.
  • mljwiremljwire Posts: 7
    Hi everyone.
    I am new to this sight. I have had 3 cylinder Geo's since my first 85 Sprint and I love um. I have always maintained them myself. But I am at a road block.
    The 95 has 150+K and was running fine except the idle got real rough and the idle speed repeatedly goes high to low (pulsing) some times at idle (when coming to a stop). I have cleaned the PCV and have tested the sensors and dash pots and everything seemed fine. The only thing I questioned was the TPS riestance was off from the manual I have but it seems to work and at $140.00 I do not want to replace smoothing that is good. I also have looked for vacuum leaks. I have not written sooner because I want to do the testes again so I could write a better detailed post but I have not had a chance. Also I am afraid I will get chastised because I have adjusted the forbidden screw (what looks to be an idle screw). In my defense I am from the old school and we did not used to have to worry about turning one screw ending the world. Any way with this screw and adjusting the throttle position sensor I was able to greatly improve the idle (although not perfect) of coarse you know this killed the gas mileage. I have tried to adjust it back with no success because of the rough idle. My next step is to do a compression test but the car seems to run fine other than the idle. I also had added cruise control years ago and heard that this may have harmed the ECU, could this be true? If so what would the symptoms be? Thank you for your time. Any one with any ideas on my idle problem and getting my gas mileage back up would be gratefully appreciated. Also any links for parts and repair for this car would be nice, especially on how to adjust the forbidden screw.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Since I'm the person who posted the original warning about not messing with the idle air bypass screw, I now feel entitled to suggest that your current problem may be the result of something as simple as a carbon bridged spark plug gap. So before you get too involved in diagnostics, please be sure that all 3 plugs are the right type, and that they are completely clean and fresh. (On my engine, NGK plugs just never seem to run right). And if the distributor cap or rotor has a carbon track, or a crack on the inside surface, it can also create similar seeming problems.

    Otherwise, one item that may be responsible is the electrical or vacuum connections to the MAP sensor. This sensor is a black plastic box, which is mounted near the top of the firewall, on the passenger side of the engine compartment behind the air filter housing. There is a 3 wire electrical connector that plugs into the side of the sensor, and a vacuum line coming from the back of the throttle body mounting flange, that connects to a spigot which hangs down below the sensor. If there is a crack or a break in that vacuum line, it could cause the problem. Or if any of the terminals on the electrical plug have become loose or have bent and are making poor contact (as they tend to do when they age) this could also cause the problem. The same problem could also happen if the vacuum hose connecting between the spigot on the bottom edge of the air filter housing and the idle air control valve has come loose or is broken. Those are the five most likely causes.

    The setting for the idle air bypass screw is dependent on the setting for the throttle position sensor; if one of them is way out of adjustment, it becomes impossible to properly set the other. The GM factory service manual says that the TPS (ON EARLY MODEL STICK SHIFT CARS) can be adjusted with an ohmmeter and a feeler gauge. The early model TPS units can be identified by there being slots in the flanges under the two mounting screws. Later model TPS units, which are not adjustable, have holes in the mounting flanges rather than slots. I expect the TPS on your '95 model is not adjustable. But if it can be adjusted; try setting it exactly in the middle of its travel. That will be a good starting point. The resistance between two of the terminals on the TPS is supposed to switch between zero and infinity when the throttle bellcrank has opened exactly .015"-.020" away from the stop it rests upon at idle. The precise measurement is made by placing different thickness feeler gauges between the throttle linkage and the stop it rests on when it fully closes; until you find the size gauge that matches the linkage position when the TPS contacts switch. These 2 terminals will also switch again as the throttle position approaches wide open.

    Adjust the TPS BEFORE you try to reset the air bypass screw. The proper procedure for setting the idle air bypass screw is to have the engine fully warmed up; and, while the engine idles, slowly turn the screw in (clockwise) until the motor noticeably slows down or becomes much rougher. Turn the screw only about 1/8 turn at a time, and let the engine stabilize. Then turn it 1/8 turn further. Keep going in that direction until you reach the point where the idle quality has obviously become worse, then open the screw back out just until it becomes smooth. Don't be concerned if the idle speed seems to have become a lot faster or slower: The computer will normally put the speed back where it belongs, after it gets used to the new air bypass setting.
  • mljwiremljwire Posts: 7
    Thank you for the response. I have replaced the plugs, cap, rotor and wires. I need to check the brand of plugs that I have installed; I have read a few other threads suggesting that certain brands do not work well. The TPS is adjustable, I have done the feller gauge and reistance setup but moved it again trying to achieve a better idle. I will try it again. I also did mess with the MAP sensor and thought I was seeing some change. I will check the wires and the vacuum hoses again. I have been all over the throttle body and I do not see the idle air bypass screw. I am assuming it looks like an old idle air mixture screw. Or is this the same as the linkage stop screw? I adjusted the linkage stop screw, exactly where is this idle air mixture screw? I am going to print this and go over it again over the 4th weekend. Thank you for your help. I will let you know how it works out. If you have any additional response I would appreciate it.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    First of all; if you have not previously changed the idle air bypass setting, I would strongly recommend that you leave it alone. Resetting it would just add another uncertain element to the puzzle, and we have enough of those to deal with already. Once you are able to set the linkage stop screw and the TPS correctly, and also find what caused the rough idle and poor economy; the air bypass screw will work just as well in its current position as it used to do. If you change the air bypass setting while the engine is running badly, you'll lose your baseline; which will only make the situation worse. That screw position is super critical; it is set electronically at the factory, and does not normally need to be readjusted. The only time the setting may need to be changed is when the engine is modified or overhauled. Besides, most people are not sensitive enough or experienced enough to adjust it properly. That's why the factory hides it.

    But back to the likely causes of your problem. In addition to what we've already considered, I'd like to add four more items. One of them is that you may have gotten a tank of bad fuel. If the problem began shortly after you bought fuel, this would indicate that bad fuel is a probable cause. And if you bought it at an unfamiliar station, it becomes that much more likely. In that case, you'll have to drive until the fuel in the tank is almost all gone; and then fill up with known good fuel and drive until it smooths out, before readjusting the settings you've changed.

    A second possibility is that dirt has gotten into your fuel injector. If you haven't changed the fuel filter in 150.000 miles, this becomes highly likely. Your car has a fuel filter mounted on the underside of the frame on the driver's side, just in front of the gas tank (about even with the leading edge of the left rear tire). There is a metal skid plate under the filter, which is held on by 2 or 3 small bolts. Before changing the fuel filter, you must vent any air pressure that has built up in the tank, by removing and replacing the fuel filler cap. Otherwise, gasoline will spray all over when you disconnect the hoses from the filter. Even after venting excess pressure, gas will run out of the lines when they are disconnected. I wait until the tank is almost empty, park the car heading uphill, and use a pair of clean bolts which have a long unthreaded portion, to plug the hoses and stop the gas from running out. But this is still a potentially messy job. It may be worth paying a gas station to do it.

    After the fuel filter is replaced, I suggest pouring a full bottle of Chevron Techroline fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank, and driving at least 50 miles so it can do its magic. That is an outstanding product. It can be bought at Wal Mart, Checker, Shucks, Murray, or Kragen; or at Chevron and Standard gas stations.

    A third possibility is that the spark plugs you bought are the wrong model for this car. This sometimes happens if you get the plug number from a cross reference chart, or a store computer, rather than going directly to the plug manufacturer's listing for your vehicle. Also, contrary to popular belief, many brands of plugs DO NOT come pre-gapped. So it is important to be sure that you bought the right plugs and all the gaps were properly set before installation.

    The fourth possibility is that the ignition timing has been readjusted during the tune up; and that the instructions about disconnecting vacuum hoses and/or electrical connectors before resetting the timing were not properly followed. That would make it idle poorly, and ruin the economy.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    There is one other item that neither of us mentioned; which is highly likely to be the cause. The EGR valve may have stuck partly open. These valves get lots of carbon built up in them, which can make the valve stick. Whenever the idle becomes rough, this is one of the first things I'd look at. The valve can be cleaned by unbolting it from the intake manifold, and working the diaphragm back and forth, while spraying it with carburetor cleaner, and scraping out any visible deposits. When it appears adequately clean, compress the diaphragm spring, and then when you release it; you should see it move freely back to the fully closed position.
  • I don't have any way of analyzing the exhaust, and my '95 3 cyl 5 speed Geo gets only 40 mpg when driven mostly in rural driving at 35 to 50 mph. I think it should be closer to 50 mpg. Even after replacing the O2 sensor, making sure the timing is proper, the plugs are in good shape, the compression is good on all cylinders, the EGR valve is clean and there are no manifold leaks (there never were any) I am not able to improve my mileage. I stuck an oscilloscope on the O2 sensor and within a minute of startup it's toggling (albeit rather slowly) between 0 volts and .995 volts.

    The exhaust pipe is still black inside with a small ring of black around the outside end.
    I have seen only one other Geo in the area which had a very clean looking exhaust pipe. What am I overlooking?

    I'd be interested in hearing from other owners comments, especially from cars from 95 and earlier (pre dual O2 sensor models).

    Steve B.
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