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Comments
I buy them at Ace.
Steve B.
The replacement took a little longer than expected because the screws holding the injector in place were fastened with blue loctite. I gently loosened the screws with a pair of needle nosed visegrips. As they started to loosen I would spray some penetrating oil under the screws while ever so gently rocking them back and forth.
I noticed a quicker engine response when hitting the accelerater.Iwould be getting better mileage if I could keep it at around 60,,anything over that reduces the mileage. I also checked the IAT sensor plug.Its good. Thanks zaken1,,,,,,,luke
This am it would not start at all. Didn't even try to start. No sputtering or anything, just the engine turning over very fast with not the slightest attempt to run. Figuring it could be the filter or the fuel pump I poured some gas directly into the carb to see if it would try to start. Nada-Zero. My thought is it could possibly be the coil or something electrical. I recently put in new plugs and ignition wires.
Any help greatly appreciated.
So here are the ways to sort out those things: Remove the distributor cap, and watch the rotor while someone runs the starter, to see if the rotor spins. If the rotor does not turn while the starter is running; the timing belt is broken.
Sometimes a set of new wires comes with the protective boots moved too close to the end of the wire. When a wire in that state is installed in the cap (or coil), the metal terminal on the end of the wire will not go far enough into the socket to contact the internal terminal. And that creates an open circuit in the electrical path from the coil to the plugs.
SO, BEFORE RUNNING ANY FURTHER TESTS; REMOVE EACH OF THE IGNITION WIRES FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP (only one wire at a time) SLIDE THE RUBBER BOOT WELL BACK FROM THE END, AND MAKE SURE THAT THE METAL TERMINAL ON THE END OF EACH WIRE IS FULLY INSERTED SO THAT IT BOTTOMS IN THE CAP SOCKET. THEN SLIDE THE BOOT BACK INTO PLACE. DO THE SAME THING WITH BOTH ENDS OF THE COIL WIRE.
Similarly, there is a carbon button which is installed in the center of the inside surface of the distributor cap; which is intended to contact the top of the rotor blade. If that carbon button has fallen out or disintegrated; it will severely disrupt the ignition.
Carefully inspect the inside surface of the cap for hairline cracks or carbon tracks radiating out from the center terminal. The cap must be completely free of dirt or carbon dust inside or out. Deposits may be able to be removed by wiping with a clean rag dipped in alcohol or kerosene. But if there are any cracks or carbon tracks, or if the carbon button is missing, the cap will have to be replaced. The rotor must also be clean and free of carbon tracks, and must be properly aligned and securely seated on the distributor shaft.
If the rotor spins when the starter runs, then (when the starter is not being operated) remove the coil wire from the center socket of the distributor cap, wrap the wire about 6 inches back from the free end with a heavy dry rag, to insulate your hand from a possible electrical shock, and hold the rag wrapped wire so that the end of the metal terminal is about 1/4 inch from a bare metal spot on the engine. Have someone run the starter, and see whether any sparks jump from the coil wire to the engine. There should be a steady stream of sparks jumping while the starter runs. If there are no sparks; then there is a problem in the ignition system. It is most likely the distributor pick up coil, or the ignition module. These items would have to be tested according to manufacturer's instructions.
One last note; Geo Metro engines are extremely sensitive to differences between brands and types of spark plugs. If an unsuitable brand, or the wrong model of plug is installed, or if the plug gap is not properly adjusted to .043" (1.1mm) a set of plugs will soon begin to misfire, and the engine will eventually become unable to start. Once the plugs foul, even if it is from an external cause, it is very likely that the engine will not be able to run again until the plugs are either replaced, cleaned with a propane torch, or bead blasted. The preferred plugs in that engine are either Autolite (listed in increasing order of price and quality) #63; AP63; APP63; or XP63; or Bosch platinum "+2" # 4306. Only this particular Bosch plug has a gap that should not be adjusted.
The next thing to do is to re-confirm that the timing belt has not slipped. There are two ways you can do that: One way would be to run a compression check on all the cylinders. You would need a compresssion gauge for that test. The pressure should be at least 180 psi in each cylinder. If the timing belt has slipped, the pressure will be significantly lower than that.
The other way is to turn the engine to the position where the line on the lower crankshaft pulley that is the timing mark lines up with the 6 degree mark on the scale built into the timing cover. If the car has a stick shift, you may need to push the car in second gear to get the pulley to that position. If you have an automatic, you'll need to keep bumping the starter, and maybe turn the engine the last distance with the alternator fins or with a wrench on the water pump pulley (the engine will be easier to turn if the spark plugs are removed). Once you get the pulley to that position; remove the distributor cap and look at where the tip of the rotor is pointing. It should be either pointing straight up (directly at the cap terminal for the plug wire that goes to the # 1 cylinder) or straight down. If the rotor is pointing as little as 20 or 30 degrees away from vertical; it means the timing belt has jumped out of sync; and thus will need to be replaced and realigned with the proper marks. (If the belt had slipped out of position, but did not break; the previous test you did, to see if the rotor is spinning, would not be valid).
If the test indicates the timing belt has not slipped; re-install the distributor cap and wires; and check for sparks at the end of each plug wire. You may need to hold the end of the plug wire very close to the engine, since the actual connector is recessed into the boot. You could also put the wire onto a clean spark plug, and clamp or lay the threaded part of the plug against a metal part of the engine. Then, the spark will jump between the plug electrodes. If the porcelain insulator inside the THREADED end of the plug is carbonized or wet, that plug cannot be used for the test. If you run the test without using a plug, or with a clean plug, and still do not get spark from the plug wires; the rotor or distributor cap is probably shorted internally. So both of those parts should then be replaced.
If all the plug insulators are blackened or wet, that will prevent the engine from running. The plugs will have to be replaced or cleaned with a propane torch or bead blaster, in order for them to work.
Standing in front of the engine, looking towards the motor- which cylinder is #1? is it the one all the way on the left, or the one all the way on the right.
Thanks.
Timing belt is fine, engine is timed perfectly, Fuel pump/filter working properly, rotor-cap-all wiring is ok, spark plugs are fine, getting fuel-spark and air, should start but doesn't. Could it be the pvc valve or some other little thing that's giving trouble. What to do? Thank you very much for your help so far. Do you have any other ideas.
Even if the plug center insulators are black and appear dry, the carbon could easily short out the spark. The insulators should be white or tan, in order to fire properly. That happens so often when an engine is unsuccessfully tried to be started; and that's why I feel so strongly about installing a fresh set of plugs.
You also should try different starting techniques. Sometimes holding the throttle all the way to the floor while you crank is what it will take to clear out all the gas you've been pouring into the engine. Sometimes it won't start unless you don't touch the gas pedal while you crank it. And you definitely should hear the fuel pump in the back of the car run when you turn the key on, and then don't turn the key further to run the starter, until you hear the fuel pump stop running. This may take about 10 seconds after the dashboard warning lights come on. If you don't hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on, the pump fuse may have blown, or the pump may have failed.
If what I have wrtten above does not fix it; I'll need specific answers to the following questions in order to sort out what is going on: Please explain in detail;
How did you determine that the fuel pump is working properly?
How did you determine that the fuel filter is good?
Thank You.
I disconnected the fuel feed line to the carb, turned the ignition key long enough to get the fuel squirting out of the line, and it was a good stream. However, before that, when I pulled the plugs to clean, the tips were wet with gas, so I dried them out with a rag and then held them on the stove burner very briefly to completely dry out any other gas residue, if any.
Maybe I poured too much gas into the carb when I originally tried to prime it. But, this would not account for the original problem I had, which is what stopped it from starting originally. Tonight, I opened the butterfly or whatever it is called on the carb and have it propped open to dry out the engine of gas if that might be the situation. Tomorrow I'll charge the battery and try to start it, if no good I'll replace the plugs. Yes, the plug wiring and sequence is ok. What does the EGR valve look like & where is it located? Plus, how do you unstick a fuel injector if that is the case? Would the injector cleaner I originally poured in help. Thanks so much for your help, I need this car for work on monday and would never have gotten this far without your assistance.
To me, this still doesn't seem like the problem in the first place.
What does the inside of your exhaust pipe look like?
Is it relatively clean or is it BLACK? I'll bet it's black.
If so, it's probably a mixture problem.
Also, if you don't mind my pointing this out; that thing you keep referring to as a carburetor is not a carburetor. It is the electronic fuel injection throttle body. Geo Metros never had carburetors. But throttle body injection looks a lot like a carburetor, so many people confuse the two. The difference is that there is no float chamber on the throttle body injection unit, and this system runs on 30psi fuel pressure; while a carburetor would run on 3 to 5psi fuel pressure.
So the sea foam may have cleaned the injector; but I bet it wiped out the plugs. It takes a surprising amount of focussed heat to clean out gas fouled plugs. I have had to point the blue tip of a strong flame from a propane torch directly into the space between the insulator and the shell; and slowly move it all the way around the circumference of the insulator; before the plug was cleaned well enough to start the engine again. My experience has been that a gas stove will not put enough heat on a plug to clean it up; if the plug is badly fouled. And if a plug insulator is fouled with certain electrically conductive chemicals; it simply cannot be cleaned with any amount of heat. Spark plugs are amazingly vulnerable to contaminants in the fuel. Because of their tendency to foul in Metro engines; I would strongly recommend NOT using NGK plugs in this application. Autolite or Bosch platinum + 2 are the preferred choices.
The EGR valve is mounted on what you would call the right hand side, on the back of the intake manifold. You can find pictures of that part, and all sorts of other parts on your engine, by going to www.rockauto.com and selecting your car make and model. The EGR valve is listed under the "emission" category. Once you get to the EGR valve listings, you can click on the square blue icon with the "i" in it, next to the part number; to bring up a large image of the part. Some brands have several views in their images. The images of the EGR valve show it in a vertical position; but it is mounted horizontally on the Metro.
It is risky to try removing the EGR valve, because the bolts can break off in the manifold. Similarly, I would strongly recommend to NOT try disconnecting the exhaust pipe from the manifold, in order to see if the catalytic converter is plugged; because those bolts will often break off and leave you stranded.
You can check the EGR valve without removing it, by simply reaching into the exposed diaphragm area underneath what would be the top cover of the unit in the photo; and pressing the thumb of each hand against two opposite sides of the diaphragm. On the engine, you'll be pressing horizontally, in the direction toward the firewall. It may take a fair amount of pressure to initially move the diaphragm; but it should snap back to the seated position when you let go. If it does that; it is not, (or no longer) stuck open.
The best way to dry out a fuel flooded engine is to remove all the spark plugs, and unplug the coil wire from the distributor cap. Clip the coil wire so that the sparks will arc to the body somewhere away from the battery or the spark plug side of the engine. Crank the engine for about ten seconds; and the excess fuel will spray out of the plug threads in the cylinder head. Then let it sit with the plugs out for about a half hour, before installing new plugs.
You can check to see if the injector is stuck open by looking into the top of the throttle body while someone cranks the starter for about 15 seconds. If fuel either pours into the throat while cranking, or does not stop flowing as soon as the starter stops; the injector is stuck open. Normally, you should see only a fine mist spraying from the injector (which hangs down in the center of the throttle bore).
Now that you have determined (very conclusively, too) that the fuel supply is good, please do not pour any more gasoline into the engine!!! If the problem is solved, it should start without needing to be primed; and any gas you pour in will just flood it again. Initially, I would suggest holding the gas pedal all the way down while you crank it. Try that for a total of about 15 seconds. If it does not start; hold your foot about 1/4 of the way down on the gas while you crank it for ten additional seconds. And if that doesn't work, try not touching the pedal while you crank it. Once it catches, you may have to hold the pedal part way down to allow it to clear out all the accumulated fuel, before it will idle without stalling. After that, it should be OK.
One more thing you could check is the electrical ground point on the back side of the intake manifold. If that bolt comes loose, or if the wires break off, it will prevent the engine from starting.
P.S. Contrary to the suggestion of one other poster; it is NORMAL for the exhaust pipe in Metros to be black on the inside. But if it is too rich, the pipe will be wet looking. It only becomes grey or tan on long freeway trips; and that color is becoming less and less common as more oxygenating additives are put in the fuel we use.
Thank you.
Thanks for your help, finally got it resolved. Went through everything and finally found the problem. The timing belt was chewed up. Sometime it would hold the timing and then it would slip. When I thought I had the problem fixed, shortly thereafter it would return. Removed the timing belt cover and there was the belt, all cracked and damaged. Put a new belt on and battery and now my little Metro is running as good as ever.
Thanks.
Seriously, it sounds like you did a great job of sorting out what ultimately was a very tricky situation. An intermittently slipping timing belt; which thus goes in and out of time, is one of the toughest of all problems to find. Many mechanics would have given up long before that job was finished. It takes confidence in your knowledge of what is required for an engine to run, along with faith in the accuracy and consistency of your observations, plus persistence and the determination to succeed; to be able to overcome such obstacles. And that's what it takes to be a success in this business. For that: I congratulate you!!!
This morning it started fine, ran about 30 seconds and died. Restarted after a few minutes- it would idle for about 30 seconds, then die. If I try to open the throttle even slightly, it dies immediately. The fuel pump comes on when ignition is turned on, runs about 10 seconds and cuts off, just like it should.
All plugs, wires, cap, & rotor are new, cam and distributor timing are spot on..
I hooked up a timing light which shows good spark until the second it dies- then nothing.
Is it fuel or ignition? ECM? TPS?
I'd love some help with this one- I just can't figure out what could have changed while it was parked overnight.....
(Running out now for a new fuel filter, just in case I might get lucky)
In that direction; it also might be a good idea to remove the fuel filler cap, and see if that changes the way the engine runs. If there was a problem with the tank venting, or with the valve for the evaporation control cannister; it could allow enough vacuum to develop in the tank that it would prevent the fuel pump from drawing fuel.
It also might be a bad electrical ground connection, at the point on the back of the intake manifold where a bunch of wires come together.
It probably would be a good idea to pull the plugs, and inspect them to see if they are carbon fouled. If there is enough carbon on the plug insulators; it could cause the plugs to start and run at idle; but they would break down as soon as you tried to open the throttle. The plugs could carbon foul if the TPS was set too rich for the current engine compression, or if the plug gap was set too wide, or if the plug brand was unsuitable (I've seen this happen repeatedly with NGKs in Metros). The fix for that is to use either Autolites or Bosch platinum.
An opposite situation with the TPS could happen if it had been adjusted to match the way the engine ran when it had low compression; and the valve job raised the compression to the point where the fuel mixture went much leaner than it used to be. Sometimes it takes a few hours of running; or several heating and cooling cycles, for the mixture to change. In that case; you'd need to readjust the TPS richer (more clockwise). BUT IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOT TRY TO ADJUST THE TPS OR THE AIR BYPASS WHEN THE PLUGS ARE DIRTY OR PARTLY FOULED; because the adjustment will not come out right.
Whatever the case; I would not suspect the ECM. It might possibly be a bad ignition module; but I would think that is also unlikely.
Hey Joel. back in September 2008 I bought a 1998 Geo Metro 1.0 stick. I was getting 32 MPG combined. You gave me a list if items that I should do to before I could look to improve my gas mileage. I did them all. Exhaust system original and in tact, tuned up with all new stuff including plugs recommended, new Goodyear fan belts, installed timing belt, and even added a K&N air filter. All that, and mileage is still the same, though the engine runs a lot smoother. What now?
AJ
Glad to see you're still around, and that you did the preliminary steps. The K&N air filter may have actually interfered with your goals; as it changes the resonance and restriction of the intake system. My experience is that; when used on Metros, it makes the engne run too lean.
I need to qualify that by mentioning that I use a K&N filter on my own Metro; but I have tweaked the engine controls and made other modifications which caused the fuel mixture to become richer than ideal; so the K&N filter has helped bring it back into the ballpark. But I would be uneasy about using it on a stock engine. Too lean or too rich a mixture is the most common source of poor fuel economy on Metros. And that engine is so incredibly sensitive to mixture changes that it will not tolerate any deviations from stock (unless you are willing to open up a Pandora's Box of ongoing compensations and adjustments which probably will never close again).
So please bear my warning about your use of the K&N filter in mind, as you try to improve the mileage.
Do you know what the compression pressure readings are on your engine? The factory specs are 195psi. If your engine is 185 or more on all cylinders; then there is good potential for improving the mileage; but if any cylinder has a lower reading than 185; you'll be wasting time and money by trying to improve it.
I'm sort of busy today; so rather than writing more now, I'll ask you to post the compression readings in another message, and we can go from there.
Joel
Replaced the fuel filter; removed,cleaned and reattached the grounds on the back side of the manifold; checked resistances on the ignition parts; and checked the circuits for fuel pump and injectors. Not much change.
I bought the car with 90K miles on it, and the valves burned at 187K- I never messed with the timing, air bypass or TPS.
A refinement of the situation: it starts perfectly and idles smoothly, but will not tolerate ANY opening of the throttle. If I let it idle long enough for the temp guage needle to move noticeably, it runs fine, and starts and runs fine once warmed up.
Is there a temp sensor in circuit with the TPS?
Still baffled.....
You might check the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor, the evaporation storage cannister, and the PCV valve; to be sure there are no leaks. Sometimes the connections of the electrical plug at the MAP sensor or the TPS become intermittent. That can create severe hesitation.
Assuming that everything else is OK, it sounds to me like the TPS is now set too lean. This can happen even if it was previously set right; just because of the change in manifold vacuum created by the fresh valve job.
ECM is not setting a code, so maybe it will be fairly simple to correct.
I once had a faulty distributor cap on my Metro; which caused the engine to go flat when I stepped on the accelerator while the engine was cold. Metros are extremely demanding about the cap insulation. And, unfortunately, there are a number of cheap brands of caps that just don't make it. NAPA has the best caps for this application; if you buy their highest quality line.
And the other fundamental check that ought to be done is a compression test. The factory compression spec on that motor is 195psi. That is a lot higher than most engines. If the compression is lower than 180psi, the engine will not run properly.
Digging around for my good compression guage- the other one is somewhat iffy, and bleeds down so fast I need another person to crank the engine.
Definately going to replace the cap and rotor with premium parts- I've been buying whatever is cheapest, and I noticed the rotor has a nearly imperceptible bit of play in it, which probably has nothing to do with my current problem, but is intolerable.
It is kind of a tedious and protracted process to fix this, since the engine must cool down completely to duplicate the problem. ......Sigh.
Before I start monkeying with sensitive (boy howdy!) adjustments on the throttle body, how is the best way to adjust the TPS?
TPS signal voltages climb from 0.78v closed smoothly to 3.75v wide open. This is shy of the 5v the book references- is it determined by adjusting the TPS position on the throttle shaft?
I'm still wondering what the mechanism is that kills the engine if RPMs exceed 2200 after a cold start. I'm imagining some sensor or other with a temperature-sensitive dead spot sending a bogus signal to ECM, but I sure can't seem to locate it.
I am loathe to begin throwing more parts at it, given the cost and rather dubious efficacy.
Anybody got any ideas?
The throttle stop on fuel injected engines is not used to set the idle speed. The idle speed on the Metro is controlled electronically by the ECU; which adjusts the air bypass valve to achieve the best idle speed and lowest emissions. If the throttle stop position is changed; it upsets the relationship between the air bypass, the TPS, and the ECU. And that is guaranteed to make the overall mixture balance impossible to adjust properly. I don't know whether you have changed the throttle stop setting; but if you have messed with that screw; you're now in a real pickle. And if you had read and heeded my posts to previous Metro owners about not changing the throttle stop position; this wouldn't have happened.
But since we all have a learning curve to go through; the way to put the throttle stop back into the ballpark is to open it as far as possible; without opening it to a point where the computer cannot then slow it down to a minimum of 800 RPM. The computer will take some time to learn the new throttle stop position; so it may idle too fast for a while, until the car has gone through enough cycles of driving and idling for the computer to get the whole picture. You may need to try several times, in order to get the stop in the right spot. It is better to set it too far open; than too far closed (but it is even better to get it right).
There were two different designs of TPS units used on Metros. One was used on automatic transmission equipped vehicles, and the other one used on manual transmission vehicles. The two units are physically interchangeable; but the automatic transmission TPS has a continuously variable resistor that tracks the throttle position. The manual transmission model has two switches instead of that resistor; one switch signals the transition from idle to off idle; and the other switch signals the transition from cruise to wide open throttle.
If somebody has installed the automatic transmission TPS on your manual transmission vehicle; it will kill the gas mileage, and cannot be adjusted right. So you need to see which type of TPS is on your car.
I believe the 5 volt reference you mention refers to the supply voltage for that system; not the adjustment voltage. It also may be one of those annoying typos. But in any case, my experience has been that the TPS adjustment will end up being set differently on different cars; depending on the condition of the engine, the exhaust system, the intake system, and the other mixture settings.
The official Chevrolet service manual recommends setting the TPS so that it switches when the throttle lever has opened .018" from the closed stop.
The throttle lingage stop I'm referring to is externally mounted consisting of an Allen screw and 8mm locknut. It does not appear to have been sealed, and there is a gap of about .008" between the end of the screw and and the throttle linkage tang.
The ISM appears to have salvage yard paint marker on it. (Ding! Ding!)
I'm thinking maybe a prior owner may have messed things up a bit.
Some day I'll get a real shop manual.....
On the manual transmssion TPS; you can check the resistance between the center and (I think) the lower pin. Anyway; it is between two of those pins. The resistance will switch between infinity and zero when the throttle is opened to the point where the contacts switch.
Incidentally, when the TPS on my car is set too lean; as the throttle is progressively opened in neutral, the engine will reach a certain RPM (probably around 2,200) and cut out and drop RPMs until it reaches a lower speed. It will then come back on, and begin cycling between the decel fuel cut mode and running mode, as long as the throttle is held in that position. That is a typical response when the TPS is set on the lean side. It is not caused by a problem. In fact, when the TPS is set rich enough to eliminate that cycling; it often turns out that the mid range mixture is too rich. When the TPS is set optimally; there will always be some point in the throttle opening where there is a noticeable hesitation on transition out of the decel fuel cut mode. The trick is to set it so that it doesn't jerk excessively; but the mixture is still clean and economical.
I think it's worth having a look....:eBay Motors: Geo : Metro DIESEL, ENGINE by Subaru Robin (item 230338147682 end time May-03-09 18:00:00 PDT)
I would like to get some opinions about it.
Steve B.
The one practical use would be as a strictly around town vehicle; but for that use; I would prefer to install an electric motor, speed controller, batteries, and plug in charger in a Metro. A friend did that to her Mazda station wagon; and it also uses no fuel and is pollution free; but will cruise at 70MPH on the highway, and can go over 50 miles on a charge. I guess it's just a matter of taste.
Another way to drive a super cheap, high economy vehicle is to buy a motorcycle. My 800cc Suzuki gets 65 MPG on the highway, accelerates faster than most cars, and is very pleasant to drive on cross country trips. And you can buy them used, for far less than a car.
Chevy Metro 2000, brake lights and direction lights not working, service engine light on.
replace fuse, bakes lights and directional lights worked for awhile, stopped working again, replaced fuse again, stopped working again,
Brakes froze up while driving would not go forward, replace brakes pads, and rotors,
replaced fuses, brakes and lights worked for about 30 miles, then service engine light came on, brake lights, and directional lights stopped working, brakes started heating up. Stopped car...smelt both front ties, getting over heated...
Called dealer send to tow it in....but would not say what they think it maybe
Thank you....
The term "synchro mesh," when applied to gear oil, refers to an oil intended for manual transmissions; rather than for automatic transmissions or differentials. But there are many types of gear oils which meet that classification, and yet are not suitable for the Metro transaxle. The Metro requires an unusually low viscosity gear oil (which means it should be a multigrade, which has two numbers; such as 75W-90; and the first number should either be 70 or 75). Metro gear oil should also be labeled "GL-5." That means it contains additives which are made for extreme pressure protection. Oils which are not suitable for the Metro would be any oil with a single number, or those with a first number of 80 or higher, or those with a GL-4 rating, without also saying GL-5.
The Metro transaxle is extremely demanding on gear oil. I have found that many popular gear oils will lead to increased gear noise (and probably increased wear) if used in this application. But the best oil I have found for the Metro transaxle is Golden Spectro SPL full synthetic gear oil, SAE 75W-90. This is an American company, whose oil is usually sold at motorcycle shops; as it is used in the final drive case of shaft drive motorcycles.
There are two great advantages to using a thinner bodied oil; one is that it penetrates better into tight spaces, which gives better lubrication, and reduces gear noise. The other is that it creates less drag from friction; which enables better performance and fuel economy.
Petroleum oil engineers would love to make their oil in thinner grades, in order to gain those advantages; but it just wouldn't stand up under the operating conditions.
OK, I put in new plugs as you suggested. The coil is putting out a strong spark and so are the plug wires. Rotor and cap are clean and fine. It is timed at the 5 mark and the rotor is in the right position relative to the #1 plug at startup. But, the motor still just spins fast and doesn't even attempt to start, doesn't even sputter, etc. I pulled the air filter and took apart that little spring loaded square assembly with the 4 screws-the gasket was fine, so was the spring. It's getting fuel, but I think it may be getting too much as it smells of fuel at the air filter area after trying to start AND the plugs get wet.
Would changing the timing higher or lower than the 5 setting help? What should I check regarding the fuel? Help please. Thanks.
Steve B.
'95 Geo 1.0 5 sp.