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Comments
www.cami.ca/start.htm
sorry...
And one more thought...when someone asks me for a ride I warn them I drive a Metro. I'm four for five in getting them to stay behind. The one person who rode with me, well, he traded his '88 Camaro V6 for a 1996 Metro sedan. Funny huh? He liked it because he knew he could drive like a maniac in first and second in town, and still get 30mpg. He got lucky and found a 4-cylinder, 5-speed, LSi sedan with power steering, tach, defroster, even power locks. It must have been special ordered new, no dealer buys them like that with a stick.
Metro Automatic. A possible solution.
Does anyone remember years (and years), ago when Plymouth and Dodge imported a couple of subcompacts called the (I think), Dodge Colt and Plymouth Champ. I think the manufacture for those two little cars was Mitsubishi.
Anyway, it had a shift on the final drive. As I remember, it said: "Power" and "Economy". You could change the gear ratio on the differential.
It seemed pretty neat. I've wondered if Suzuki/Chevrolet incorporated this in the Metro for the Automatic, I bet during highway driving, you could really improve your mileage quite a bit and cut down on the high rpm.
Funny this never took off (were there problems?).
I believe this was back in '79 to the early '80's.
Doe's anyone remember that?
Tom
Just 1 week ago, I was paying $1.29 per gallon for regular at a Chevron truck stop not too far from where I live.
Yesterday, I filled up at the same place with the same grade of gas (regular) at $1.49!
I've read in the newspaper it could go higher to $1.75 for regular before it stablizes.
Glad I bought a Metro!
carlady/host
The 2-speed differential is a good idea, but I think if my transmission ever fails I will simply have a taller final drive installed, maybe 3.23:1 instead of 3.61:1. That ought to give better mileage, although it will be more sluggish in town, then again it is slow now, so why not? I figure they are building an economy car, why not go all the way? The Sprint ER and Sprint Metro and Metro XFi were standard Metros fitted with a 5-speed stick and highway gearing. Makes one wonder if the transmissions are interchangeable between 1989-1994 models and 1995-2000 models. The taller final drive would make a big difference. If I ever trade this car for a standard and I ever need to do work to it, it would be the perfect time to find a good pre-1995 XFi transmission to hook up to it. I know it will fit a 3-cylinder, but probably not the four. The ratios for the 3- and 4-cylinder 1995-up Metros are different so I think the transmissions may be slightly different, too.
I would like pop-out quarter windows in my Metro, too. They are easy to replace due to vandalism, three screws and you're done, the glass is cheap and plentiful, and it's a way to save $40 for a locksmith by keeping a spare $10 window at home.
Maybe I ought to buy a 1992-1994 XFi. With air. Now that woiuld be rare!
1) The XFi has lower horsepower. XFi gets 49 HP while the base and the LSi gets 55.
2) The XFi fuel is leaned out considerably.
3) Chevrolet GEO strongly discouraged anyone ordering optional air conditioning for the XFi. It wasn't offered in group packages for the XFi.
Because of the already leaned out fuel to air ratio on that model and the reduced horsepower, GM mechanics said if I ordered A/C for the XFi, it would void the warranty for the engine. In fact, I believe at the time I couldn't get a/c from the factory for the XFi. So I went for the Metro base instead (I lived in southern California and A/C is mandatory!).
Now get this, the LSi has 3 rings for its pistons while the XFi and Base has 2. I bought a 1991 GM service manual for the '91 Metro and it shows it.
Go figure on that one.
When and bought a set of Sear's Michelins (12 inch). They were the best tires I've ever invested.
I don't know if this is your problem, but if you still have the original tires and they are Goodyear Invicta's, you might consider changing them.
My suggestion would be to test drive a new Metro Automatic (it has the same engine).
It rev's higher at highway speed (only 3 gears), compared to the 5 speed manual, but it does ok (for my standards).
You'll loose some horsepower but it's not too bad.
I wish Suzuki would come out with a four speed auto.
Check this site out!
http://www.suzuki.co.uk/swift/index.htm
Go see the limited edition "SKY" model (blue).
Check out all the equipment it comes with.
It's got power everything!
Sure makes you feel empty on the one's shipped to the U.S.
When I had my '99 LSi without a radio, I priced a factory replacement AM/FM/Cass, which matched the original equipment. It was $50.00 at a local flea market. I don't know if they have any more, but I'd be glad to look this weekend, if you still need one. It was at the Big Top flea market in Tampa, Florida, by the way. :-)
Pat (The MetroGnome)
pat56@freenet.tlh.fl.us
Tampa, FL
I'm moving to Dallas Monday, won't be here to check in until I start an ISP account, probably with Flashnet. The Metro is not coming with me the first trip, I'll be back to get it in a couple of weeks. Anyone who wants to buy it, just email me, $2500 takes it, read back on the posts here to see what I have and whether or not you want it.
Hey Pat, let us know when you find another Metro, what you get and all, and whether or not the insurance gave you a hard time because it was a Metro. Are they really going to fix that? We've seen the pictures...that is definitely not a roadworthy car now!
That does sound like you've got problem(s).
What size engine do you have? The 3 or 4 cylinders.
I have a 1991 Metro with 3 cylinders and it has close to 130,000 miles (I'm the original owner).
Only had 1 valve replaced since I bought it new.
Other than that, just oil/filter and 1 timing belt (at 80,000 miles).
Some mechanics have told me the 1.0 liter 3 cylinder engine does have some problems. That is why Suzuki (er, GM, yea- that's it, GM), offered the 1.3 liter 4 cylinder in some models beginning in 1995. At least that's what I was told.
Other than that- sounds like you've got a case to invoke the use of the "Lemon Law" (if your state supports it and it's not too late).
I then purchased a 1990 Metro with a good body but bad motor for $250.00 last June. I transplanted the good motor and tranny out of the 1989 into the 1990 and have driven it on my daily commute of 122 miles every day since.
I have done absolutely no work to this 3 cylinder motor since I got it except a tune up and oil changes. Just wanted to tell a "good" Metro experience.
Yeah, State Farm totalled my '99 LSi. Despite the photos, the damage was relatively minor. My visual inspection indicated this damage:
1) Front bumper assembly, nose, hood, both front fenders
2) Radiator and fan assembly
3) Right side motor mount (engine pushed back slighly on right side)
There were no fluids leaking from the vehicle, except coolant. Front suspension and both front wheels still appeared to be in alignment and operational. I was told the only reason it was totalled was that the parts come from Japan (Suzuki), and were quite expensive.
C'est la vie. I'm driving around in my Bright Blue Metallic 2000 Metro LSi Coupe (Hatchback) now, that State Farm (the other party's insurance company) bought for me.
L8er...
Pat
The MetroGnome
pat56@freenet.tlh.fl.us
Tampa, Florida
the car is great and amazing on gas but i have been waiting 3 years to get a vw cabrio.
only had the geo for a little over a year due to an accident with my old geo prism.
i still have a note on the geo so i would be asking around 6,100. email me if any interest:
karid@ntcnet.com
1997
automatic
51,000 miles
cd player
car starter
great shape
My second question is: has anyone bought a car from Enterprise? They have Metros with low miles and I was wondering if anyone has bought one and if they were happy. Further, I would like to know what a fair price for one of those would be. Any help is appreciated.
See how that compares to your price and please, let us know how everything works out for you.
carlady/host
Gene
This started within warranty, but the dealer was no help -- they could not find anything wrong (and since the symptom goes away after a while, the dealer would claim it "fixed" by "misc. adjustments" or similar BS).
A friend suggested that I might have a loose connection somewhere (which self-corrects once
the temp under the hood goes up). And he was on the money. All I had to do when this happens again was to massage all the connectors I can see, and the problem goes away, at least for several days. (And this only happens in summer time anyway.)
I wish I know which wires are the trouble makers so I can fix them for good. But I could not find a book about it (maybe Metro is not main stream enough). If anyone is more knowledgeable on this, please help me out. Thanks!
I suspected the ground wires since the sheet metal body are the most likely culprit that expands and contracts in different seasons/temps. But they look fine and after all they are just metal to metal ...
carlady/host
In response to you question, "Is it normal that (the Metro automatic), runs @ 4,000+ RPM when going at 65 MPH?"
Yes. It is normal.
I had an automatic Metro (1994), and am awaiting for a new 2000 Metro Hatchback automatic that I've ordered (should arrive next week).
The axle ratio for the new Metro's with the automatic is 3.61 (that's right out of the factory specs). Unfortunately, I don't know if that's any different from the 1994's (when autos were with the 3 cylinder engine). Now you can't get them unless you opt for the 4 cylinder LSi.
Yes, that little engine whines when you get moving. There is a reason for this.
It's a 3 speed on a 3 cylinder engine. Since horsepower is already being lost in an automatic, the gears are going to be "lower than average" to keep it from being a complete "gutless wonder". You've also lost 2 gears (from the manual trans.), so with only 3, you've got to increase the spread on what gears will operate at what speeds.
Since I've owned both manual and auto (I've had two at the same time), I've had the experience to try both. Sure the manual gets better gas mileage, but the auto has better gears for power!
I've had it climb up hills, pass trucks, and merge on freeways with the auto and was impressed!
Now, it's by far no head turner, but for a 3 banger w/auto it wasn't too bad. What it REALLY needs is an overdrive 4th gear for highway driving (engaged by pressing a button on the select shift).
I've thought that Suzuki would offer something along those lines- but alas!
Just one other thing... on the new Metro's, there is a cut-off in the fuel injectors when the RPM gets to 6,000 (red line), or above. I guess it would be pretty hard to over-rev the engine (unless you're going downhill).
Tom
Thanks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/inuvik_nwt?e&.flabel=fld1&.pindex=2&start=1&.src=bc&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/inuvik_nwt%3fc%26.flabel=fld1
But that is not the best part. I thought that I might and go rent the car, after all it is a rental right? Well he refused to tell me the location. It is in the same city as the sales lot. He said that it may be rented out or that it may be somewhere else. The man thought I was crazy for wanting to look at a car before giving him a check for $500.
Ok here is the grand finale. Then I got curious and asked to see what my check would be attached to in order to see if it was possible to get my money back out of the dealership. He said sure no problem and then gave me a contract. He gave me an order form for the car and asked me to sign it. I was like NO. I told him that I was not signing a contract and that that document would hold up in court. He said that it would not hold up in court because a "real contract" for a car is in triplicate. How ridiculous is that? By the way I have one year left in law school and I have the UCC on hand. My wife just said lets go.
Avoid them like the plague. The classic bait and switch. Take the deposit and then suddenly the car is sold and you are stuck.
Believe me, I wish there was an overdrive switch you could engage at highway speeds.
I don't know anything that might help (buy the biggest tires you can!).
Your mileage is about right. I know there have been times I wondered if the darn thing shifted into 3rd or stuck in 2nd gear.
Tom
If you are looking for a Metro try:
http://www.traderonline.com/
Just plug in your search parameters.
Also does anyone know what the axle ratio's of the '89-'94 metro's are ? or the '95-'00's ?
thanx
Steve
Also does anyone know what the axle ratio's of the '89-'94 metro's are ? or the '95-'00's ?
thanx
Steve
motorcycle with a shell :-) And the noise confirms this ... I also wish that they'd add an OD 4th gear to it.
As for gas mileage, I once went back home (Northern NJ) from the US/CAN border with a single
tank of gas (however small the tank is). That should have given me about 35-38mpg or so (all highway). Now the exciting part of the story: the fuel gauge was at the bottom when I was about 50 miles from home, but I went on with the belief that there was a "fuel low" warning light -- there wasn't one on the Metro '94! Of course if you pump as soon as the gauge hits bottom, you are only able to add some 8.5gals.
carlady/host
I test drove a 2000 Suzuki Swift a few days ago and was quite impressed with it. The dealer was advertising it for 7990 but it had no air and no stereo. I was very impressed with how thick and solid feeling the doors were. They closed with a solid thunk with no rattles, unlike Saturns costing thousands more. However, the hood felt ridiculously light and thin and both the hood and the hatch closed with a cheap tinny sound effect. Going down the road, the car felt more susbstantial than it looks or its size would suggest. The car seems to be very solid and well made.
The 79 horse 16 valve engine shocked me with how much pep it had (it was a stick). It is a very responsive and quick to accelerate engine. I was also impressed with how quiet the engine was at both idle (barely noticed the car was running) and under hard acceleration. It was much quieter then the Kia Sephia I drove. However, the clutch would not fully engage till the top of the pedal travel and it felt a bit weak. That worried me a bit and caused me to drag the clutch more than I should.
It has a nice looking dash design, though it is made of some rather shiny cheap looking plastic. I was disappointed that the car had no tachometer, because according to Edmunds, it is supposed to be standard on the Swift. And why can't Suzuki make the bumpers body colored like the Metro Lsi??? It would make the car look so much better.
Anyways, those are my thoughts on the Swift. I think it is a well designed, solid car that does not deserve the cheap junk label it has been given. If only I had some car credit under my belt, cause than I probably would have driven the car home after they installed AC in it (in Florida, u NEED ac). Oh well, guess I will have to wait a bit longer to buy my first new car.
Enterprise dealers are terrible. Their Metros are OK. Mine was an Enterprise rental car at one point, the original owner was Enterprise Leasing. That is a tip that it was a rental. That and the green e under the hood and on the hatch (since removed).
Hertz and Budget are no better. I worked at a Budget Car Sales for a week, couldn't stand it. They have almost no money in their cars because they made so much renting them, and they still ask above retail for them. A 1999 Metro sedan is worth about $6000-$7000, and they ask $9995. Then they add a Gold Seal (a coat of wax) and charge $499 for it. It's ridiculous. The best place to buy a Metro or Swift is from the owner, a repo auction (if you're careful), or salvaged and rebuilt. I wouldn't spend $12,000 on a new one, but I would be happy to spend $5000 on a 2-year old model, and that's what they are worth used. I think they're great cars, but there is no reason to spend oodles of money on a new one when a used one is exactly the same car for thousands less.
I own a 1999 Metro LSi Coupe--I was wondering if anyone has ever had these problems before:
1) Speedometer needle wiggles at speeds between 20 and 45 mph at constant speeds.
2) The sealant (urethane or some black sticky guck equivalent) seeps from the top of the front windshield and especially a lot from the top, bottom, and sides of the rear back window. The sealant seeps out from between the rubber seal and the glass.
3) A clicking, rattling, knocking, snapping, puffing noise is heard coming from both rear left and rear right wheel area.
4) The key is hard to insert in the driver/passenger doors. The key becomes jammed during insertion.
5) Uneven wearing patterns on all tires, which I first noticed at approximately 1,500 miles.
6) The vehicle pulls to the right while driving and accelerating.
I have had repairs after repairs and nothing has worked. The Repairing Dealership not only tried to fix some problems but they made them even worse.
Is it just me or did I truly get a Lemon?
As far as the speedometer - her car's speedometer is never right. Always 10 to 15mph off. Has been since day one. Repair shops want alot of money to fix it, so we said forget it.
You're pulling problem may be a simple alignment issue. Has it been aligned? Also, there is a decent amount of torque-steer when you accelerate which could add to the pulling.
Try WD-40 in the lock to loosen things up. Worked for us.
We don't have sealant problems.
Personally, I can't stand the car. You can't safely take it on the highway when it's very windy, its a nightmare in the snow - those tires get trapped in ruts and pull the back end all over the place, it's loud, handles awfully - body roll is almost frightening, people are always cutting you off (piece of crap car factor), I am afraid to even imagine what will happen in a side impact....I can go on and on.
Bottom line, we're dumping the car and buying a PT Cruiser (assuming we can actually find one).
My 1995 Metro has 112K now and it's speedometer does something different...it is sticky...you accelerate and it the needle takes a second to catch up. The tire wear problem means you need an alignment...another clue the car may have been wrecked at some point.
I have seen 1998-1999, even some 2000 Metros at insurance salvage yards, totaled out, and it is quite possible if you bought your Metro used or as a demo, that it was a total loss at one point. One more reason to run a Carfax on your car before you buy it (unless you buy it for less than $1500 or so).
My 1995 Metro was never a total loss but it had been wrecked before and is currently damaged now, and I will be installing my own headlights and hood. There is no frame damage so I'll do the parts changing myself.
If your 99 Metro has over 60K, you may need new rear struts. Otherwise the noise may be related to the brake shoes, which are made of sandpaper. The brake hardware is comprised of folded tissue paper, therefore it may have failed by now. And I have installed all new Bendix parts back there to make those rear brakes semi-effective. I recommend same. You can get them at Western Auto and Parts America store. Seriously, the standard OEM brakes are of poor quality.
The key thing is normal for Suzuki products. A little lock lubricant (WD-40, graphite, whatever) will help a little, but having new keys made from the locks, not from the keys themselves, may help. Should cost about $45-$60 for a locksmith to make you a fresh key.
Lemon laws are different in every state, so check with your local library to see what you can do. Also look on the net, since you're here. If you have had the same problem repaired several times, or you have a safety issue (the pulling and the tire wear could count if they could cause an accident), you can go that route. Try another Chevy dealer, don't tell them you have been elsewhere, just tell them what problems you are having and see what they can do. Drive 100-200 miles if you have to. Also you might wish to have an independent mechanic try to work on it, it will cost you money, but it might fix your troubles.
I'll trade you my 1995 Metro LSi hatchback, air and automatic, red on gray, with 112K, and it'll be fixed soon. I'll trade you for yours, put in a little cash (not too much, remember I'm buying a lemon!) and you'll have a good Metro.
Good luck and come back for more help if you need it!
Alan Moore
'95 Metro LSi hatchback
'92 Dynasty LE sedan
'89 Tercel coupe ($300 car)
Ours is a 92 Metro 4 door.
Love it,
Gary
#3 - The noises coming from the rear wheels began to occur around 7-8 months after pruchase. It was determined by the dealer mechanics to be the rear struts, which were not neccessarily faulty but wore down with wear. They were covered under warranty but the parts took over a week to come in. Eventually they were replaced without issue and we were happy.
One would think that the rear struts of any car should not be worn down to failure after only 7-8 months of normal daily driving. However, this is not a condition of being a lemon, but the combination of 1) cheap parts being used in the ultra-economy metro and 2) the ridiculous road conditions in L.A.
As for the rest of your problems some seem related to your car needing an alingment (the tire wear and the pulling to one side) while the rest seem unique. Still, seeping sealant and fuzzy needles, while nuisances, aren't threatening the life of your car.
You have to take a broad general view of the Metro. It's probably the least expensive vehicle sold in the U.S., next to the Daewoo Lanos and the Hyundai Accent. It's a very dependable car that has been built by Suzuki and sold by GM alllll the way back to the time when Chevy packaged it as the "Sprint" in the early 80's. The tiny 1 liter 3 and 1.3 liter four cylinder engines can live increadibly long lives on low amounts of gasoline and maintenance. And above all else you have to remember in this industry, you get what you pay for.
I later found out it was because the factory Goodyear Invicta's were horrible! The mechanic blamed it on the back end being so light.
I switched over to Michelins. On the 1994 and earlier models (12" tires), go to Sears and ask for "Sears Michelins" because Michelin dealers don't carry 12" tires. Man, that stopped that problem but quick. I had over 125,000 miles on Michelins and they haven't given me a bit of problem. Now I just bought a 2000 Metro LSi Hatchback and gave it a set of Michelin Symmetry tires. Runs great!
Wal-Mart also sells Goodyear Viva radials and those are decent tires...the 155/80R13 size is $24 per tire plus mounting, so you can have a set of new tires for about $150.