I've got a really noisy drivers side door, whenever my car's idling in a traffic jam it rattles, whenever i shut the door it rattles.
I've taken the trim off and had a look but cant seem to see anything loose.
Usually it's because the linkages connecting the handle to the opening mechanism are knocking against the door pannel, but the rattling isnt coming from there.
PHILL:My 2005 GT driver door will have a slight clatter if the window is more than 1/2 down. If up, the door shuts with a very solid "thump" ( Ilove that sound ) so I think the sound is related to the glass raising hardware (power windows in my case) so if it does it on a brand new car I guess it will still do it as the miles build up. There is NO rattle from that area at any other time tho.
Funny you say that, the cabel in the window regulator snapped on my car last month, i thought that when i replaced it the rattling would stop, but it didnt.
I had a good look round the inside of the door while the trim was off, and i saw a large pole stretching the length of the door, it looked to be like a support strut. That was a little bit loose, as if one of the weldings holding it on had broken, but couldnt see how i could fix it, didnt look very accessable in terms of getting the welder out. But if you have any tips of the trade?...
Phill: That is the door side impact beam. The fact that it was loose is a definate no-no. That thing is supposed to protect you in a side impact. The fact that it had come loose (unwelded) is worrisom. Chances are it never was properly welded from the factory. have you had the car since new ? To your knoweledge has it ever been in a accident ? What year is it anyway ? If still in warranty I'd get the dealer to take a look @ it & get it properly attached. it will do little good if you get smacked in the door.
had it 2 yrs, it's 1999 reg. And the person who had it had never had an accident, it's got full service history, he even went to the hyundai dealer to get light bulbs and tyres for it lol.
i did have a lil smack in it, but it was rattling b4 that anyway. and i got it repaired on insurance at a professional place reccomended by my insrance, so it wern't that.
I looked on both doors, and both them bar is held on by only 8-10 spots of weldin, you'd av thought with summit important as that they'd put more seccure weldings on! cheapo hyundai's :P lol
You will see a bar stretching the length of the door. It's held on by blobs of silicon. Yes this is strange, a shock absorbing bar, designed to save you in a side on collision, held on by blob's of silicon....but hey that's hyundai's for ya lol.
On my car this was loose near the locking mechanism, making an awfull squeaking noise (which doesn't impress the ladies one bit! lol so it's GOT to be sorted out ASAP!)...so i repaired this in true hyundai fasion.....i got my silicon squirting gun (that would usually be used for sealing windows with) and put silicon wherever the bar seem'd loose.
When this was set, there were no more squeaks or rattles from my car.
hope this helps someone, cheers for yr help believer.
Just hope there are no hyundai's having side on collisions, i dont fancy the chances, the thing that is meant to protect you is held on by soft rubbery stuff! lol. CRAZY!
The make is a 1999 Hyundai accent 4 cycle stick shift. I did it like the book says except turning the rotors down I sanded them with some sand paper to get some surface smoothness off, everything went together smooth as normal I put the shims back in hooked caliper up out of the way with a coat hanger until I replaced the pads,made sure the warning wear indicator was on the inside pad, the spring clips are in right, the caliper moved smoothly in and out on the sliding pin. the old pads that were worn, were evenly worn. I didnt do the other side yet so Ive been driving the car for 2 days now and it seems its not as warm on the wheel lugs as it was when I drove the first day it never gets the whole rim warm to the tire.Are the pads going to get cooler to touch when they wear in?
Maybe when you used sand paper to take away the surface smoothness you put too much roughness on it. so this extra roughness would cause excessive friction, which will then mean excessive heat when being used.
After the first few drives out maybe they smoothed down a bit, causing less friction and therefor less heat.
But still, i have not seen your car, so i cannot be sure on this. if you are unhappy about the way it is performing i would take it into a garage for them to check it out if i were you.
Lastly, change your other brake pad/disc as soon as you can, whenever you change brakes you should change the two on the same axle at the same time, as they usually wear out at the same time.
Actually - we have some great resources of our own in the Maintenance & Repair message board. There is a great discussion where you can ask your questions and the resident mechanics will assist you - Transmission Traumas?
My friend just bent the steel rim on his 2004 Hyundai Accent GL Hatchback with automatic. He got a "in stock car" from the dealership so does not know what options it has. What is the size of the stock steel rim on this car?? Diameter, off-set, bolt pattern, width???
kagedude/any body pls. giveme the link to hyundai accent's trouble shooting page.. i took my accent '96 for inspection ticket..it failed..reason is Throttle position sensor circuit faulty..could any body has any idea how much it would cost to fix that TPS sensor/circuit & O2 sensor ..hhelp would greatly appreciated..
i'd rather not drop the $100 they'll charge me at the dealership, so does anyone know the procedure for flushing the accent's transmission fluid system? how many quarts will i need/what other parts will i need?
Can't go to work on it quite yet becuase of the snow (upsate NY thing...), but as soon as its better I'll take care of it.
Actually, this is only 25k since I bought the car used (and they changed it then), but I'm moving in a few months (college) and won't have a place to maintain the car.
Decided to give my Accent a coolant change over a slight hangover today (not the best choice).
Anyways, a few things I noticed throughout:
A) I had a lot of trouble finding the drain cock. Maybe I was unaware of the full meanings of "cock," but I was looking for a plastic cap-on-a-tube type of deal. Turns out you need to take off the plastic skid (beat from the low clearance) and turn a tiny switch (black--same color as radiator).
Remove the front starboard wheel. Impossible otherwise, esp. since the stock jack only raises the the car to the third peg on my jack stands (STILL REAL LOW).
C) The manual is wroang about 6+ quarts of coolant; 3 and a half is more accurate Kind of miffed about that one, seeing as I spent the $9 on another gallon of coolant. Also, the radiator severely overflowed to my surprise. The car smelled like a rotting emu for the first 30 minutes running time.
D) Your best bet is to not follow the manual too horribly. They use the term "fill" instead of "add" or "top off" and they also use words about 12 interchangeably to mean "radiator cap." And there is a sentance that begins with "And..." Kind of scary...
That should cover it... One error on my part I wish to warn of: When you buy a 4 gallon fluid container, DO NOT ASSUME THE BOTTOM DRAIN CAP IS TIGHTLY ON before putting your coolant/oil/A/T fluid/what have you in the car to "legally dispose of."
This was my first time, it came out fine and was still cheaper than doing the coolant at a "place."
Has anyone let the belt change for the timing belt go way passed the recomended amount of mileage required at 60K one friend of mine has 103K on his bought new accent with 3000 oil and filter changes performed without a miss. :confuse: The reason I hesitate to have the belt done is confidence in a dealers work, I once had a belt timing replaced on a touyota, found missing bolts on cover candy papers in well on engine and a bent pulley damper, this was a dealer for toyotas :mad:
I know that people have neglected to change their timing belts when recommended. One of two things has happened. Either they had no problems or their engine seized beyond repair when it broke. It is about a $300 job. That is a lot cheaper than a new car. Only you can decide what it is worth to you.
Ah ha....you drained the radiator.....but you did not flush the system...
When you unscrew the plug on the bottom of your radiator, yes you're right about 3 litres comes out, the other three litres (which makes up the six, mentioned in the manual) is hidden within the engine, because the water doesn't only go through those two large pipes and the radiator, but also lots of tiny lines throughout the engine, and through another system which heats the cabin up when you put the blower fan on.
Draining the radiator alone is not good enough, you are still left with lots of impurities, and coolant where only half of is any good, the rest is out of date, with all the special chemicals broken down with age.
To flush the system, the cheapest (but time consuming) method i choose is to drain the radiator, do the cock-stop up, fill it up with water, and leave the engine running for 2-3 min's with the blower fan on hot in the cabin. Drain, fill and run the system again....and again....and again....(6-7 times when i did it) untill you drain the radiator and see clear water coming out, and on the final time, fill the radiator up with 100% anti freeze.
Since the radiator contains about half the water for the system, you are left with a 50:50 mix...as recomended.
Note, to prevent scaling up in the system, use purified water.
To see some pic's of how to do this, and more detailed instructions, here's my website
thanks phillbill. that explains a lot (and makes a whole lot of sense). i would, however, still love to have a talk with the person translated the owner's manual from korean.
i'm not horribly embarrassed yet. ive read stories of people fixing their side impact bars with silicon guns...
Yeah well if you take your door pannel off and look at the side impact beam, you will see several blobs of rubbery adhesive, so i thought i'd repair it with the same stuff it was made of lol. You'd have thought that it would be welded on with alloy metal to be fair :confuse: ah well, it stopped the rattling and my car's not falling appart, so all seems good.
Its also good when the state takes the time to inform you that you have been unknowingly entering the wrong SSN on all of your tax documents instead of letting you ignorantly go on with it for 5 years :mad: :mad: :mad: .
It looks like Hyundai has one up on New York State...
when i did it the engine was stone cold when i did the 1st drain, but by the end of it all it was kinda warm because i'd been turning it on and off for short intervals to get it round the system. i dont think it really matters all that much though, but you dont really want to be handling boiling hot coolant, could end up getting severly burnt if you're not carfull. good luck!
i drive a 2000 Accent How do i remove the caliper? and how do i replace the break pads? pls help me ...i dont knw hoe to remove the bolts that hold the caliper especially the top bolt coz it looks l=more like pin than a bolt
i've been horribly tempted to replace my own brakepads lately (2002 GL), and i recently ran into some great sites that explained it very well. i don't know the urls, but im sure if you googled (i love how that is now a verb) "brake pad change," you'd run into some of them.
mine has the pin that you are talking about and the two bolts, but the bolts are covered in... stuff... (fire protectant/dirt/hyundai love juice/road gunk/poor korean design [never!]?)
just got a remote starter put into my accent (18th birthday gift)... its... odd... i was coming home from work and threw it into neutral and turned off the engine (enter the hyundai ding), then turned the key back to "on" and the engine kicked right back in, as if it were hooked up to a light switch (some techie, in the near future: "well actually, it IS a light switch persay..." ).
Hello! I am the owner of a 2002 hyundai accent AT. I recently had my scheduled 60,000 maintinance done, as I have had all the scheduled maintinances done on time. However, I was traveling up a large hill (which my car generally has no problems with) as soon as I kicked into that last gear to maintian my speed, the interior of the car started smelling like burnt rubber. Almost like I had left the E brake on or something. (which I had not ) I pulled over, turned the car off, and checked the engine. I could smell nothing from the outside of the car and all my fluid levels were good. I started on the road again, reahced the top of the hill and had no further problems.
anyone have any suggestions to what this might be?
I hit 119 MPH on a downgrade in my Accent. You may not beleive it (I wouldn't have thought it possible before I did it myself), but it happened. It was insane and I do not plan on doing it again.
However, my car has been acting 'all around funny' since I did it (about a week ago). A lot of transmission kicks and some on-and-off weird noises "here and there." The car behaves just as it did before hand in terms of performance, but I am worried that I could have screwed something up. Any ideas?
Funny thing is, ten minutes after going 119 in a 65, I got stopped for eleven over. ("Officer, you think 76 is fast? Listen to this!")
I've let my Accent hit the red line a few times, and it's caused no damage. Besides, engines are set so that the rev's cut off at high engine speed (hence the jerking motion in the red line) to protect the engine. It is most likley that there was a componant on the way out anyway, and going that little bit faster just pushed it to its limit, it was probably just a matter of time before somthing went wrong if you carried on driving normally.
But to help you out with diagnosing what component needs servicing / replacing, i think we need some more symptoms...
Well it's been over a week now and the noises and jerks have stopped. I knew it wasn't redlining that caused it (actually, I had to start slowing down before I hit the redline)-- I was more concerned that the tranny was somehow more "thrown off" by the high speeds b/c of the constant switching bt/w 3rd and 4th sometimes at highway speeds even though I'm not changing throttle pressure.
I just love how the Accent fixes itself. Maybe I'll wake up one morning and there will be fresh brake pads on it.
Someone ran a stop sign and almost totalled my car today. I should have let them. Sole occupant, front passanger impact... my chances were good. I'd be driving a stick now, that's for sure. My damn defensive instincts, they never leave me time to think objectively.
Paul : You should have been more worried that the el-chepo OEM tires did not come apart on you. They are not speed rated for that much stress . Good thing it was just a short burst and not prolonged. I did the same thing with a Mustang. Just a short adventure north of 115 MPH and lost TWO tires. They were virtual "rags" by the time I got stopped. These were brand new OEM Goodyear Eagle RS. The guys @ the Goodyear store were scratching their heads over that one. No slam on the Accent, I have one too but it has had speed rated Pirellis since new.
Actually, the tires on the Accent are T rated, meaning they can withstand sustained speeds up to about 118 mph without falling apart. This is why you don't see a speed limiter on the Accent. Granted, that high of a speed is still very risky. Now, if the tires were S rated, I wouldn't even recommend sustained speeds over 105.
intonge: Curiosity got the best of me. Went out in the dark and took a gander @ the Hankooks on my 2005 Accent GT. They are "H" rated or 130mph. Gives me a little comfort while tooling @ 80 / 85 mph on I-95.
Just this morning one of the Eagle RS's on my wife's Vibe destroyed itself for no reason @ 35mph. 18K on them. I suspect a tread seperation. Never had much luck with any Goodyears. Had one on a new Mustang totally explode @ 70mph with only about 600 miles on it (new car) go figure.
I have used autolite spark plugs and see no difference than uesing NGK spark plugs, I thought of those spit fire plugs, does it matter if its the right size and heat range spark plug, or should you use just what the handbook says? :confuse:
On a Hyundai Accent, i personally would just stick to what it says in the hand book, the chances are on a 1.3 / 1.4 / 1.6 engine that it isnt the spark plugs limiting the power output (assuming yr hoping for better performance)...but the size of yr engine. (im not dis-respecting Accents...ive only got a 1.3i myself lolol)
It's like all these kids puttin K&N filters and straight through exhausts on their cars, makes it sound better, but it actually decreases engine power by reducing the pressure within the engine. They get fooled cuz they read about cars being put on the dynamo (if you go and get your cars power tested) and the horse power goes up, but this is due to a constant flow of cold air to the engine, the bonnet being open etc. But in real driving conditions with the hood down, and being stuck behind yr granny sucking up her hot exhaust fumes, it makes naff all difference, it actually decreases yr performance on most small engined cars :P Maybe it makes yr miles per gallon go up.....cuz yr engine isnt being used to its optimum.
But back to the spark plugs....u gotta make sure the threaded part (the shell) is the same size as specified in yr hand book.....otherwise it wont fit in yr engine
The length of this threaded part of the shell is called the reach, make sure this is exactly the same as specified in yr hand book or you may muck up your engine!
Hot or cold spark plugs?.....the heat rating of the spark plugs will make no difference to the running temperature of your engine. The amount of heat they take away from you rengine is negligable. Basicly it means that the tip of a hot rated spark plug will be hotter when running in the same engine under the same conditions. This is down to the length of the spark plug, a longer spark plug will have more surface area so more heat can escape from it to the engine block, making it a cold spark plug. Whereas a hot spark plug has a shorter body meaning less heat can escape from it. (im pretty sure i've got them the right way round...) Using the wrong heat rated spark plug will mean short spark plug life. which is fine if the plug only destroys itsefl and you can just change it....but it may not destroy itself, but destroy the engine instead if you're unlucky...through pre ignition. when the fuel mixture gets so hot that it burns before the cylender is up...not good!
If the plug is too cold it will get and excess build up of impurities....called fouling.
So yes, i would go with what it says in the handbook. Sorry to have rambled on so much, i just like to give reasons for my answers :shades:
phillbill: Noticed my Accent owner's manual says change out the plugs @ 30,000 miles. Is this because Hyundai uses el-chepo OEM plugs or what. Can't tell what they are without pulling one but I assume they are not long life platinum 100,000 types. What do you think about putting in some premium plugs @ 30,000 and run the primo ones for 50 or 60K. ?
ok so im moddin my 99 accent si and i decided to change the colour of my dials after changing it all over and putting the unit back together pluging everything back in , now we all know the air bag light flashes like 6 times when you start the car but now it flashes 6 times then stays on all the time now can anybody help?
I've not looked into how much spark plugs cost...it depends if you think you'll get your money back on them in terms of cost Vs mileage.
Well as long as the specifications are all the same, like heat range, range etc. i cant see the harm in experimenting.....but dont blame me if it goes wrong :sick:
Ever since i had my car lowered....and now cant get my jack under it, i've been put off modifying lol.
That flasing effect is created by a series of capaciters and resisters in the light circuit.....it could be that you damaged one of those lil components in the SRS airbag circuit, hence it's staying on.
If you had to unplug somthing, maybe you didn't plug it back in correct afterwards.
Otherwise there may be a fault with yr air bag circuit, and it was just bad timing that it went wrong at the same time as you were playing round with the dash. In which case the air bag may not inflate in an emergancy
All those lil lights on the dash are warnings, if they stay on summit's wrong. Eg if the break light stays on, you probably need new pads, or the ABS system's bust If the oil light stays on you may be losing oil pressure If the battery light stays on you got summit wrong in the charging circuite (a faulty diode in the alternator for example) and so on.....
I would take it to a vehicle electrician to have a look at, just in case there's summit wrong more than a loose cable...last thing you wanna do is ignore it and have a bad crash...
If you are doing modifications, be sure and ask for help in our Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification message board. We have a number of experts in there who can help out.
ok so my wife and i own a 2004 accent GT w/ about 30K miles on it. only real reason we got it was because it was fairly good-looking and very well priced. needless to say, the performance has been less tham acceptable (should have driven it a little harder on the test drive) but the biggest issue is with the windshield...seems like EVERY time we take it on the interstate a rock hits it. i have NEVER had a car before that gets hit by so many rocks...it's already been repaired once and now, about a month later, there is about a 6 inch hairline fracture in it and 2 more pits! i just don't get it! i drive my car on the same roads, same times, and never get hit with rocks...maybe the accents very short nose and non-low profile demeanor have something to do with it? any suggestions?
When I turn right (even slightly), there is a horrible squeel from the disk of the front passanger wheel (it is particularly bad in reverse). The noise goes away when I apply the brakes. I had the front wheels realigned today (which needed to be done anyways) and the noise is still there [negative $217 for my enjoyment].
I know that it is time for new brake pads. Could there be some mechanism in the brake that is broken and rubs the disk, but shuts up when the caliper puts pressure on it?
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Please help me before this noise makes me snap and kill somebody. Thanks.
Oh and I ditched the old tires, so there is no 'rough history' with them anymore.
Disk brakes have a warning mechanism attatched to them that squeels when the pads are low. This noise can go away when you hit the brakes if they are worn badly. Get new brakes and your noise should go away.
By the way, who charged you $217 for an alignment? That is ridiculous.
$217 was for the "axle thrust allignment" (more serious than do-it-yourself wheel blalnce) AND two fresh Firestones plus labor. Which makes 217 bucks decent/justifiable. But whether its justifiable or not, its still a bunch of hours bussing tables and working amusement rides for me.
Monro Muffler/Brake did it. They forgot to put a lugnut back on. Shame, shame.
Thanks for the info. Now I have some assured serenity to look forward to.
Not so bad when you include two tires as well. I've never heard of an axle thrust alignment and couldn't tell the difference, but that is why I'm not a mechanic.
With normal tyre alignment your getting your tyres truely vertical and so that they're not toeing in/out, maintaining life of your tyres. With thrust aligment your getting all four wheels aligned in a perfect rectangle, rather than like a parrallagram shape....if you know wot i mean. That make any sense?
Comments
I've taken the trim off and had a look but cant seem to see anything loose.
Usually it's because the linkages connecting the handle to the opening mechanism are knocking against the door pannel, but the rattling isnt coming from there.
Anyone had this problem before and solved it?
Believer
I had a good look round the inside of the door while the trim was off, and i saw a large pole stretching the length of the door, it looked to be like a support strut. That was a little bit loose, as if one of the weldings holding it on had broken, but couldnt see how i could fix it, didnt look very accessable in terms of getting the welder out. But if you have any tips of the trade?...
Gee, i better go look @ mine too !
believer
i did have a lil smack in it, but it was rattling b4 that anyway. and i got it repaired on insurance at a professional place reccomended by my insrance, so it wern't that.
I looked on both doors, and both them bar is held on by only 8-10 spots of weldin, you'd av thought with summit important as that they'd put more seccure weldings on! cheapo hyundai's :P lol
take the door trim off, (tells you how to do this on my website if yr unsure http://www.ennerdale.freeserve.co.uk/dave/hyundai_accent_repair_pages.htm )
You will see a bar stretching the length of the door. It's held on by blobs of silicon. Yes this is strange, a shock absorbing bar, designed to save you in a side on collision, held on by blob's of silicon....but hey that's hyundai's for ya lol.
On my car this was loose near the locking mechanism, making an awfull squeaking noise (which doesn't impress the ladies one bit! lol so it's GOT to be sorted out ASAP!)...so i repaired this in true hyundai fasion.....i got my silicon squirting gun (that would usually be used for sealing windows with) and put silicon wherever the bar seem'd loose.
When this was set, there were no more squeaks or rattles from my car.
hope this helps someone, cheers for yr help believer.
Just hope there are no hyundai's having side on collisions, i dont fancy the chances, the thing that is meant to protect you is held on by soft rubbery stuff! lol. CRAZY!
Did I do good? I shopped around and tried to get both sides to compete.
im thinking next time i get a car to go over sea's to buy one and bring it back over to england, i'd save so much money, they rip you off over here!
But yeah, if you ask me, you did very well.
bring it over to england and sell it for double the price you brought it for lol.
After the first few drives out maybe they smoothed down a bit, causing less friction and therefor less heat.
But still, i have not seen your car, so i cannot be sure on this. if you are unhappy about the way it is performing i would take it into a garage for them to check it out if i were you.
Lastly, change your other brake pad/disc as soon as you can, whenever you change brakes you should change the two on the same axle at the same time, as they usually wear out at the same time.
Maybe this site might help you out a bit in diagnosing the problem....
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/aa072702a.htm
Good luck!
pls. giveme the link to hyundai accent's trouble shooting page..
i took my accent '96 for inspection ticket..it failed..reason is Throttle position sensor circuit faulty..could any body has any idea how much it would cost to fix that TPS sensor/circuit & O2 sensor ..hhelp would greatly appreciated..
i'd rather not drop the $100 they'll charge me at the dealership, so does anyone know the procedure for flushing the accent's transmission fluid system? how many quarts will i need/what other parts will i need?
much thanks.
-paul
http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_transmission/article/0,2021,DIY_13700_2270920,00.html
Can't go to work on it quite yet becuase of the snow (upsate NY thing...), but as soon as its better I'll take care of it.
Actually, this is only 25k since I bought the car used (and they changed it then), but I'm moving in a few months (college) and won't have a place to maintain the car.
Anyways, a few things I noticed throughout:
A) I had a lot of trouble finding the drain cock. Maybe I was unaware of the full meanings of "cock," but I was looking for a plastic cap-on-a-tube type of deal. Turns out you need to take off the plastic skid (beat from the low clearance) and turn a tiny switch (black--same color as radiator).
C) The manual is wroang about 6+ quarts of coolant; 3 and a half is more accurate Kind of miffed about that one, seeing as I spent the $9 on another gallon of coolant. Also, the radiator severely overflowed to my surprise. The car smelled like a rotting emu for the first 30 minutes running time.
D) Your best bet is to not follow the manual too horribly. They use the term "fill" instead of "add" or "top off" and they also use words about 12 interchangeably to mean "radiator cap." And there is a sentance that begins with "And..." Kind of scary...
That should cover it...
One error on my part I wish to warn of: When you buy a 4 gallon fluid container, DO NOT ASSUME THE BOTTOM DRAIN CAP IS TIGHTLY ON before putting your coolant/oil/A/T fluid/what have you in the car to "legally dispose of."
This was my first time, it came out fine and was still cheaper than doing the coolant at a "place."
When you unscrew the plug on the bottom of your radiator, yes you're right about 3 litres comes out, the other three litres (which makes up the six, mentioned in the manual) is hidden within the engine, because the water doesn't only go through those two large pipes and the radiator, but also lots of tiny lines throughout the engine, and through another system which heats the cabin up when you put the blower fan on.
Draining the radiator alone is not good enough, you are still left with lots of impurities, and coolant where only half of is any good, the rest is out of date, with all the special chemicals broken down with age.
To flush the system, the cheapest (but time consuming) method i choose is to drain the radiator, do the cock-stop up, fill it up with water, and leave the engine running for 2-3 min's with the blower fan on hot in the cabin. Drain, fill and run the system again....and again....and again....(6-7 times when i did it) untill you drain the radiator and see clear water coming out, and on the final time, fill the radiator up with 100% anti freeze.
Since the radiator contains about half the water for the system, you are left with a 50:50 mix...as recomended.
Note, to prevent scaling up in the system, use purified water.
To see some pic's of how to do this, and more detailed instructions, here's my website
http://www.ennerdale.freeserve.co.uk/dave/changing_the_engine_coolant.htm
thanks phillbill. that explains a lot (and makes a whole lot of sense). i would, however, still love to have a talk with the person translated the owner's manual from korean.
i'm not horribly embarrassed yet. ive read stories of people fixing their side impact bars with silicon guns...
Yeah well if you take your door pannel off and look at the side impact beam, you will see several blobs of rubbery adhesive, so i thought i'd repair it with the same stuff it was made of lol. You'd have thought that it would be welded on with alloy metal to be fair :confuse: ah well, it stopped the rattling and my car's not falling appart, so all seems good.
Its also good when the state takes the time to inform you that you have been unknowingly entering the wrong SSN on all of your tax documents instead of letting you ignorantly go on with it for 5 years :mad: :mad: :mad: .
It looks like Hyundai has one up on New York State...
mine has the pin that you are talking about and the two bolts, but the bolts are covered in... stuff... (fire protectant/dirt/hyundai love juice/road gunk/poor korean design [never!]?)
just got a remote starter put into my accent (18th birthday gift)... its... odd... i was coming home from work and threw it into neutral and turned off the engine (enter the hyundai ding), then turned the key back to "on" and the engine kicked right back in, as if it were hooked up to a light switch (some techie, in the near future: "well actually, it IS a light switch persay..." ).
I am the owner of a 2002 hyundai accent AT. I recently had my scheduled 60,000 maintinance done, as I have had all the scheduled maintinances done on time.
However, I was traveling up a large hill (which my car generally has no problems with)
as soon as I kicked into that last gear to maintian my speed, the interior of the car started smelling like burnt rubber. Almost like I had left the E brake on or something. (which I had not ) I pulled over, turned the car off, and checked the engine. I could smell nothing from the outside of the car and all my fluid levels were good. I started on the road again, reahced the top of the hill and had no further problems.
anyone have any suggestions to what this might be?
However, my car has been acting 'all around funny' since I did it (about a week ago). A lot of transmission kicks and some on-and-off weird noises "here and there." The car behaves just as it did before hand in terms of performance, but I am worried that I could have screwed something up. Any ideas?
Funny thing is, ten minutes after going 119 in a 65, I got stopped for eleven over. ("Officer, you think 76 is fast? Listen to this!")
Wishing I had a manual Accent...
Besides, engines are set so that the rev's cut off at high engine speed (hence the jerking motion in the red line) to protect the engine.
It is most likley that there was a componant on the way out anyway, and going that little bit faster just pushed it to its limit, it was probably just a matter of time before somthing went wrong if you carried on driving normally.
But to help you out with diagnosing what component needs servicing / replacing, i think we need some more symptoms...
I just love how the Accent fixes itself. Maybe I'll wake up one morning and there will be fresh brake pads on it.
Someone ran a stop sign and almost totalled my car today. I should have let them. Sole occupant, front passanger impact... my chances were good. I'd be driving a stick now, that's for sure. My damn defensive instincts, they never leave me time to think objectively.
Believer
Just this morning one of the Eagle RS's on my wife's Vibe destroyed itself for no reason @ 35mph. 18K on them. I suspect a tread seperation. Never had much luck with any Goodyears. Had one on a new Mustang totally explode @ 70mph with only about 600 miles on it (new car) go figure.
Believer
It's like all these kids puttin K&N filters and straight through exhausts on their cars, makes it sound better, but it actually decreases engine power by reducing the pressure within the engine. They get fooled cuz they read about cars being put on the dynamo (if you go and get your cars power tested) and the horse power goes up, but this is due to a constant flow of cold air to the engine, the bonnet being open etc. But in real driving conditions with the hood down, and being stuck behind yr granny sucking up her hot exhaust fumes, it makes naff all difference, it actually decreases yr performance on most small engined cars :P
Maybe it makes yr miles per gallon go up.....cuz yr engine isnt being used to its optimum.
But back to the spark plugs....u gotta make sure the threaded part (the shell) is the same size as specified in yr hand book.....otherwise it wont fit in yr engine
The length of this threaded part of the shell is called the reach, make sure this is exactly the same as specified in yr hand book or you may muck up your engine!
Hot or cold spark plugs?.....the heat rating of the spark plugs will make no difference to the running temperature of your engine. The amount of heat they take away from you rengine is negligable. Basicly it means that the tip of a hot rated spark plug will be hotter when running in the same engine under the same conditions. This is down to the length of the spark plug, a longer spark plug will have more surface area so more heat can escape from it to the engine block, making it a cold spark plug. Whereas a hot spark plug has a shorter body meaning less heat can escape from it. (im pretty sure i've got them the right way round...)
Using the wrong heat rated spark plug will mean short spark plug life. which is fine if the plug only destroys itsefl and you can just change it....but it may not destroy itself, but destroy the engine instead if you're unlucky...through pre ignition. when the fuel mixture gets so hot that it burns before the cylender is up...not good!
If the plug is too cold it will get and excess build up of impurities....called fouling.
So yes, i would go with what it says in the handbook. Sorry to have rambled on so much, i just like to give reasons for my answers :shades:
Believer
Well as long as the specifications are all the same, like heat range, range etc. i cant see the harm in experimenting.....but dont blame me if it goes wrong :sick:
Ever since i had my car lowered....and now cant get my jack under it, i've been put off modifying lol.
If you had to unplug somthing, maybe you didn't plug it back in correct afterwards.
Otherwise there may be a fault with yr air bag circuit, and it was just bad timing that it went wrong at the same time as you were playing round with the dash. In which case the air bag may not inflate in an emergancy
All those lil lights on the dash are warnings, if they stay on summit's wrong.
Eg if the break light stays on, you probably need new pads, or the ABS system's bust
If the oil light stays on you may be losing oil pressure
If the battery light stays on you got summit wrong in the charging circuite (a faulty diode in the alternator for example)
and so on.....
I would take it to a vehicle electrician to have a look at, just in case there's summit wrong more than a loose cable...last thing you wanna do is ignore it and have a bad crash...
Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification message board. We have a number of experts in there who can help out.
When I turn right (even slightly), there is a horrible squeel from the disk of the front passanger wheel (it is particularly bad in reverse). The noise goes away when I apply the brakes. I had the front wheels realigned today (which needed to be done anyways) and the noise is still there [negative $217 for my enjoyment].
I know that it is time for new brake pads. Could there be some mechanism in the brake that is broken and rubs the disk, but shuts up when the caliper puts pressure on it?
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Please help me before this noise makes me snap and kill somebody. Thanks.
Oh and I ditched the old tires, so there is no 'rough history' with them anymore.
By the way, who charged you $217 for an alignment? That is ridiculous.
Monro Muffler/Brake did it. They forgot to put a lugnut back on. Shame, shame.
Thanks for the info. Now I have some assured serenity to look forward to.
-Paul
With thrust aligment your getting all four wheels aligned in a perfect rectangle, rather than like a parrallagram shape....if you know wot i mean.
That make any sense?