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VW Golf



  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Besides, if the car is still under warranty and there is an oil-related failure, the fact that 5w-50 was used gives VW the ammunition (and justification in their eyes) to deny the warranty claim. I prefer to err on the side of caution (or at least until the warranty expires).

  • wetwilliewetwillie Posts: 129
    You're right, if it's under warranty I would stick to their list (at least until it's updated).
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    You said, regarding usng 5-50 Syntec instead of their 5-40:

    Not true, it in fact exceeds the requirements - the API SM rating supercedes previous ratings i.e., SL, SJ, SH, all the way to SF- VW requirements. It supercedes previous ratings precisely because it not only meets those requirements, but exceeds them. Whether VW is specifcally mentioned in their sales blurb is immaterial - the SM rating says it all. No problem using a lower rated 5w-40 oil on the 2.0, but for the turbo I would want to use the best oil you can get your hands on.

    API is the American Petroleum Institute, controlled by the oil companies and oil refiners (Chevron etc. for oil companies, Pennzoil etc. for refiners). They set the most commonly recognized ratings for motor oils, the ones like SF, SG, and the current SL. They also trademark the "Starburst" energy efficient symbol commonly seen on oil bottles.

    Most American oils are also rated by IILSAC, the "International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee", which is composed of major North American automotive manufacturers and forms the car manufacturer counterpart to API (which represents oil companies).

    The two fight over oil requirements and grades of oil all the time. The US manufacturers don't want the consumer to be confused, so they try to specify, for warranty requirements, commonly available oils, which means constant compromises with API over oil quality. The API website indicates that API accepted the current manufacturers ILSAC GF-4 requirements and thus SL oil. They had previously resisted the upgrade to GF-4/SL because it requires a higher grade of basic oil stock, and many API members complained it would make the oil too expensive and/or drive independents, still using the crudest of crude base stocks, out of business. In 1999 Ford commissioned Conoco (I believe) to come up with a 5-20 oil which far surpassed the SG oils of its time. It took until 2005 for the industry to come closer to the specs of 5-20 oil with the new SL grade. That is troglodytic upgrade schedule.

    On the API website, the following manufacturers are noted as accepting, and endorsing, the new API SL oil grade: Daimler Chrysler; Toyota; Nissan: Mazda; Isuzu; Ford; Honda, GM, Suzuki; and Subaru.

    Conspicuously absent from the list are VW, Mercedes, and BMW. European manufacturers have their own ACEA industry organization and lack the Magnusson-Moss Act and can further specify their own standards for oils. Besides the ACEA 2, 3, 4 etc. requirements, Mercedes and VW each publish their own spec. SL oils (and ACEA graded oils) do not necessarily satisfy this spec. Ironically the converse is true; 5-40 can't satisfy satisy this spec because it is not an energy saving oil per se.

    Syntec 5-50 may or may not satisfy the VW 502 spec. It doesn't satisfy the viscoscity range requirement. According to tests, VW spec 5-40 oil is closer to a 30 weight than a 40 weight; which is also why the Mobil 1 SUV 5-40 oil does not satisfy the spec.

    The only thing you can trust is the oil refiner's website and bottles. The refiners want bragging rights and will include every obscure spec that they satisfy. Once again, SL oil is the lowest common denominator, and some high performance oils like VW 5-40 don't qualify due to their viscoscity (also due to anti wear additives - VW's have higher grade, longer life catalytic converters that can withstand heavier concentrations of anti wear additives, which is why my 2.0 manual specifies SF oil, which is actually an older grade than SL).

    This balkanization of oil standards has gone on for years. I remember reading some bottles saying the oil satisfies "Japanese valve train wear requirements." Good old 99 cent SF oil wasn't good enough even back then.

    My 2.0 manual says, if 5-40 isn't available, 5-30 can be used. The 1.8T has no such escape clause. There are known sludging problems with 1.8T's, which is why other posters caution using both the approved VW spec oil, and changing promptly at the required 5,000 mile interval. Since VW only charges $4.00 a bottle for the absolutely, positively approved and tested (by the refiner) oil, why use Syntec 5-50? It just isn't the same oil. I haven't found 5-40 Syntec at Kragens yet, but if you want to do it yourself, they carry Valvoline 5-40. Most Jiffy Lubes should have 5-40 from Pennzoil or Quaker State.

    Using the wrong grade of oil with a highly engineered engine like those in European cars is asking for trouble. Even Camry's had sludge problems, and 2.7 Chrysler engines. It is becoming more of a problem across the industry, and it pays to be careful with engine lubricants and fluids. I have come to the conclusion that the car manufacturers know best, use what they recommend.

    These are the extended specs satisfied by 5-40 Syntec: Porsche approved and also exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, MB 229.3, MB 229.1, BMW LL-98. Meets the engine protection requirements of Volvo, BMW, Mercedes Benz and ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.
  • newfoundmenewfoundme Posts: 3
    what is the component on top of the battery in 2001 Volkswagen Golf
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    On top of the battery on ALL of the MKIV VWs is the power-distribution. Basically, the '+' side of the battery is broken up (distributed) to various wires. There may also be some fuseable links (fuses) included in the Power Distribution.
  • newfoundmenewfoundme Posts: 3
    is that power distributor expensive and hard to replace?
  • mackoronimackoroni Posts: 1
    I'm thinking of buying a 2005 Golf (either that or a 2005 Corolla LE - both have are affordable cars with side impact airbags).

    I've always liked and wanted a Golf, but I'm worried about all the things I keep hearing on their unreliability. Have these issues been significantly worked out for the 2005 model? I also read the latest issue of CR, they didn't give it a reliability check even though the 2005 model got excellent ratings in all but electrical...I'm confused and don't know anyone who owns either the corolla or golf that I can hit up for info and impressions.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I dont really understand why you would want to be replacing the power-distribution. It has no moving parts, cannot wear out and is just a bunch of wires. Please explain why you are asking?

    If you REALLY need one, make some phone calls to salvage-yards... since it CANNOT wear out, any used one will be just as good as a new one.

    I just dont understand how in the world your power distribution unit could be a problem.
  • fluffheadfluffhead Posts: 2
    hello everyone,

    i was pulled over today and informed that both of my brake lights are out - just the bar on the back window is functional. does anyone have any clue why both would be out at the same time? clearly there is something going on with the electrical system. is there possibly a blown fuse? i just changed a front headlight myself, did i screw something up?

    daniela :sick:
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    start replacing bulbs. The headlight is just a coincidence, I think.
  • fluffheadfluffhead Posts: 2
    could anyone recommend a fuse map? my googling is not producing any results. many thanks.
  • faypitfaypit Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Golf with almost 95k (mostly highway) miles on it. The check engine light keeps coming on even though my mechanic has changed the o2 senser after the computer diagnostic said that was the issue. Also did a full tune-up, new plugs, new fuel filter...

    He has done several smoke tests, but can't find a leak. Any suggestions? I hate dealer service shops...
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    You might want to ask in the Maintenance & Repair board - "Check Engine" light discussion
  • aqua_uomoaqua_uomo Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have a basic CL and installed an alarm system and power locks on it myself.
    I want to get a spare key and was thinking of getting a flip up key with remote.

    I was wondering if there is a way to have the VW remote "learn" the existing remote that I have (non VW!)

    thanks in advance
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
  • h20polo8h20polo8 Posts: 2
    :confuse: my 02 golf is making whining noises in and out of turns. I notice the steering isn't that responsive either ( I have to turn the wheel more than before). I put wider tires on my golf to increase handling and before I hardly had to turn the wheel and I changed the direction. My suspicion is something to do with steering fluid but I have no clue how to access that. Other vw owners have told me that only the dealership can do it. Anyone have any comments? Suggestions?
  • h20polo8h20polo8 Posts: 2
    First off don't go by CR ratings because especially on VW golf and jetta they don't stay current...even more so on the Golf. Try checking out a few more sites on the internet.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You have been mis-informed. The Power-steering fluid is in a resivour just like on all other vehicles with power-steering. Read the owners manual.

    Since this probem started AFTER you installed wider tires, you need to consider that it is the tires that is the problem. Have you tried putting on tires of the correct size to see if that corrects the problem?

    Also, you can lift the front tires off the grond and try to steer lock-to-lock. If it is not freed-up then, there is a serious issue with your suspension components.
  • golfiegolfie Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 vw golf gl and had the mass air sensor replaced about 2 years ago. 1) Now that the check engine light is back on one of its frequent visits, it is being suggested that the mass air sensor may need replacing again because it could be bad again. how is this even possible? do you need to rebuild the car every 2 years, is this a faulty part that deserves recall, or is the mechanic trying to empty my bank account?

    2) anyone have problems with the air intake? (replacement, causes, etc.?)

    3) do your hoses (smaller ones that cost about $40) really need to be replaced to make it run better if they are a little worn, but taped up properly where worn slightly?

    4) leaks in thermostat control problems?

    5) bad vacuum lines?

    6) evap system problems or replacement?

    If anyone has any helpful information to offer on any of the above items, I would be very interested in hearing about similar problems or legitimacy of such problems. as much the golf is fun to drive, the mechanics (especially the dealers) are going to have me out on the street starving and still having mechanical problems. also, any recommendations for good vw golf 98 mechanics would be appreciated, as most mechanics are hesitant to work on "european" cars and especially this model and year. look forward to some helpful responses. thanks in advance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The MAF sensor is a known weakness. VW has an "unpublished" recall on the MAF for some vehicles.

    2) An air-intake does not wear out. It is just some plastic plumbing.

    3) Warn hoses do not make it run any worse... but if your hoses have tape on them -- someone has been doing some rinky-dink maintainance. The question should be "Why are the hoses wearing?" A properly plumbed engine should have no hoses rubbing on anything that can wear at it. I have NEVER EVER had warn hoses on any VW (have owned at least 7 VWs and the family has 3 VWs currently)

    4) Thermostat housing has never leaked on my VWs, just reseal it with approprate gasket cement.

    5) The vacuum lines on VWs are SOLID PLASTIC, they do not wear out. The rubber ends can be easilly replaced for a few dollars to do ALL of them. (Purchase a 2-foot length of rubber hose and cut it into 1-inch peices)

    6) Evap system -- Again I have NEVER EVER had issues thru 7 VWs since 1976.
    Are you sure that the leaky vacuum lines are not the same issue?
  • brady2brady2 Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a 2002 1.6 Golf, mileage 16K
    The car has fire damage to the rear of the car and some blistering on the right rear passenger door & wheel. The cause was due to a car next to it on fire, the intensity of the fire was to melt quite significantly the rear light covers.
    What other unseen damage could this do to the car? Any other electrics/cabling at rear or right back corner of the car.
    Thanks Brady2
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    check the plastic gas tank and plumbing to make sure there are no safety issues.
  • i have a 2001 Golf GL and there is no power going to my radio, its just dead
    can it be the fuse or something?
    please help
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    There is no 2002 1.6 Golf (assuming gas engine only). They came with either the 2.0L four, 1.8T four, or 2.8L VR6.

    So I can assume you're referring to the 2.0 Golf?
  • gti_ownergti_owner Posts: 1
    does this MAF sensor happen to have a button on the stalks next to the wheel, i have a mk3 golf gti and found a button on the steering wheel stalks with the letters MFA or MAF, could this be anything to do with your discussion? :confuse: :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I do not think so -- I am not sure what button you are talking about... but a MAF is just a sensor that measures airflow entering into the engine. There would be no concevable need to have a button anywhere.
  • chriskingchrisking Posts: 1
    could you please tell me why my vw golf 2.0ltr 8v 1997 keeps cutting out when i pull up to junctions. ive changed the plugs and dizzy cap and new ht leads but it still does it. can you through some light on my problem...???
  • rowergirlrowergirl Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Golf, automatic. I just took it in for 1st oil change at 5000 miles. I have noticed in the past couple of weeks that sometimes when stepping on the gas that the car hesitates, this has happened from a stop and when stepping it up from around 30 miles per hour. Mentioned this to the dealer and they said that it is just how the computer works?? Does anyone have this problem and can anything be done about it? :confuse:
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Check the condition of the ignition coil. If there's a crack in the coil, chances are that may be the problem.
  • firstgearfirstgear Posts: 2
    hi people,
    i'm new to the world of VW Golf but not new to turning wrenches. i just purchased a 94 Golf III. after two days of enjoyment it will not start. the battery is fine and the clutch is firm. i've check the lead to the solenoid and it's NOT hot with switch in on position. should it be hot? if so, if so, is there a relay or connection i should check? the only other things that are strange would be the power moon roof opens but will not close by the switch. my other issues are the trunk which dose not unlock when i unlock the drivers door (with key) nor dose the rear drivers door. could this some how be connected? any clues out there?
    anything constructive info would be greatly appreciated...
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