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VW Golf



  • Reads like it was written by the VW press boys. Nevertheless, the MK V is on my short list for a replacement for my '96 Golf III. What's not mentioned is the base price, which I've heard (rumored) will be close to $17,000 for the four door w/ manual transmission. Ouch.

    >Just read it here
  • Just curious - what else is on your short list?

    That is a common problem with VW, their cars are very expensive, particulalry compared to something in the same category. They are priced between the standard brands and luxury. It's an interesting pricing strategy, but hey, it seems to work.
  • >That is a common problem with VW, their cars are very >expensive, particulalry compared to something in the same >category.

    Well said. But the "German driving experience" has been worth it. (Repeat this five times a day.)

    >Just curious - what else is on your short list?

    Hmmm. Well, I looked long and hard at the Mazda 3i, but after driving it, I came away underwhelmed. My '96 Golf rides and handles just as well, though I'm sure the 3s is much sportier all around - and more expensive.

    For economy and storage, the Honda Fit looks great. I'm not enamored with its styling and have never warmed up to Hondas. Seems kind of small for the American road system. I'm reserving judgment till I see one in person (in April?)
  • I just got a 2006 Golf GL 5-speed manual and at 70 mph the tachometer registers about 3600 RPMs. That's about 1000 RPMs higher than any other car I've owned running at the same speed, even cars with less horesepower than the Golf, and seems excessively high. Is this normal for a Golf, or do I have a problem? Thanks for any responses.
  • >at 70 mph the tachometer registers about 3600 RPMs.

    VW engines rev high for the most part. 3600 RPM doesn't sound excessive. I assume you have the 2.0L engine. However, my 96 Golf w/ automatic doesn't rev that high at 70 MPH. Have you checked other forums for better info? Try
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Which engine do you have? I thought that the 5-cylinder has replaced to ol 4cylinder 2.0L?
  • Nope. It's the 4-cylinder, 2.0-liter. I guess what I'll have to do is go test drive another one and see if the rpms are the same. Arrgggh.
  • Which engine do you have? I thought that the 5-cylinder has replaced to ol 4cylinder 2.0L?

    He bought the outgoing model (MkIV) Golf. While the new MkV GTI with the 2.0TFSI engine has been out for a few weeks, the new Golf with the 2.5 5-cyl. (or the 4-door GTI) won't be available until about June/July.

    If I don't forget to do it, I'll check what mine does at 70mph. I would guess around 3000rpm.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Nothing wrong at all with your 2.0 5 speed. The automatics are geared much higher to permit quiet cruising. VW philosophy is that the Golf 5 speed should always be "ready to go" - generaly, no need for a downshift if you are driving 70 or 80. At 80, the two Mark IV's that I had were turning close to 4,000 rpm - but so smooth. Still smooth and powerful at 100.

    4th still has some power curve left in it at 80 even with the low gearing. On mountain roads driving 50 or 60 I would often throw a downshift to fourth or third then run it up to redline to pass slow traffic.

    The 5 speed is truly a joy in the 2.0.

    For BEST performance, run premium in your 2.0 as recommended by the brochure and the manual. It will run on regular fine, but will make more power on premium.

    Look up for some great recommendations on gasoline. Most manufacturers have gradually reduced the detergents in their gas to federal minimum requirements, which are based on almost 30 year old BMW fuel injector tests. Chevron, Conoco-Phillips (and their brand, Union 76), and Shell have kept a lot of detergents in their gas, and keep your car running top performance.

    Your car's engine, although based on the 70's Rabbit GTi, has been updated over the years and is highly refined. It is smoother than the 5 cylinder and some drivers (myself included) are a little disappointed that the 5 cylinder doesn't feel much stronger and certainly doesn't run too smooth. The 2.0 oil recommendation is 5W-40. Although I have heard traditional "dino oil" in Europe can satisfy both this viscosity grade AND the VW specification (5xx.x) in your owner's manual, in this country the only oils that satisfy both the grade requirement and the VW spec are all synthetic. Look for 5-40 Pennzoil or Quaker State in bottles labelled "European Formula" or words to that effect; Mobil 1 0-40; or Castrol 5-40 Syntec, which my dealer used for its synthetic oil changes. If you aren't sure, check the bottle to see if it satisfies the VW spec or check the manufacturer's website.

    My dealer told me that 5-30 oil can be used, since the 2.0 isn't a turbo; and the manual states, somewhat enigmatically, that "5-30 may be used if 5-40 is not available." Which is VW speak for "we would never do it, but you American's insist on the cheapest possible oil." Also keep in mind that American 5-30's don't satisfy the VW spec and are not "long life" and therefore shouldn't be kept in the crankcase for the full 10,000 mile interval VW permits.

    On my first Mk IV I didn't take this stuff seriously; I believed in good oil, but thought dealers were overpriced. Since I had trouble finding 0-40 at Walmart, which is very cheap for oil, I ran Mobil 1 5-30 instead. This is full synthetic, and I was only running 5,000 mile oil change intervals, and I never had a problem. Unfortunately I didn't know that VW REQUIRES a drain pan bolt replacement at every oil change as a routine part of the oil change process, and as a result (and also, I am sure, due to aggressive lube shop mechanics) I lost an oil pan, thus giving back all the savings I got from cheap oil changes.

    On my later 2004 Golf, I checked the dealer prices, found out they were reasonable (about $89 for a full synthetic 5-40 oil change with a superior VW oil filter and new drain pan plug).

    I got far enough with the 2001 to need a 40,000 mile major service, which includes an oil change, spark plug change, cabin filter change, and air filter change. Plus the usual numerous inspections. This ran me $300, thanks to shopping around and a dealer discount coupon. Some dealers wanted up to $500. These prices are competitive; my Honda dealer wants $500 for a 30,000 mile "tune up" on a car with 100,000 mile spark plugs and fluids. At least on the VW the dealer was doing some real work.

    VW has very demanding specifications and the market for replacement fluids is so small in the States that anything generic you find on a Kragen shelf or at a lube shop is apt to be the wrong stuff (even if it claims VW compatibility), and may cause more harm than good. I wouldn't put anything other than genuine VW fluids into a modern VW.

    I don't want to give the impression that VW's are high maintenance. They are VERY low maintenance, BUT very particular about what they want. :P

    Have fun. Don't be afraid of the RPM. You might hate your first VW, go back to a Honda, but I guarantee you that later on you will miss the VW....
  • 1995 VW Golf 4-door hatch 2.0L manual
    for as long as ive had my car the bank 1 sensor was out. is it neccessary to replace it? and if it is, where is it? i cant spot it out..

  • boy1984boy1984 Posts: 1
    I've been doing a lot of research on purchasing a used VW Golf. My father had a VW Rabbit way back when, and he loved it. Ive had many cheap cars, mostly domestic, which were the kind you pray before turning the key. I will be graduating from college in a couple months, and I need a car for a commute to work. I am leaning toward the VW Golf GL, 2 or 4 door hatchback. 2003 or newer. I feel the value is great, and the style is good for me.

    I do have a few questions:

    I am a big guy, 6'2", 300lbs. Will the golf be comfortable for me? I will be driving alone mostly, just commuting to work.

    My primary desires in a new car are fuel efficiency, and reliability. I've been through the constant repairs, and headaches. I need at least a couple pain free years. Is a VW Golf going to work for me?

    I hope the VW will work out, I love the VWs!

  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    You said, in part:

    My primary desires in a new car are fuel efficiency, and reliability. I've been through the constant repairs, and headaches. I need at least a couple pain free years. Is a VW Golf going to work for me?

    I doubt it. I owned a 2001 and 2004 Golf and they are upscale for a small car - that is their allure, not bulletproof reliability.

    I had a frustrating ECM problem with the first one and no problems (albeit a much shorter period of ownership) with the second, sorry to see it go but needed a minivan.

    However, VW way at the end of the line on Consumer Reports' list of reliable cars, and there are a lot of anecdotal reports of problems and bad dealers, in terms of fixing those problems the first (second, or third) time around.

    So unless you are prepared to work around the problems (which are not insurmountable given a healthy dose of patience and proximity to a good dealer - this is 2006 after all) you should just buy a Corolla (the new Civic has teething problems).

    Also, consider this: a person with 10 problems with a Corolla waits patiently while the dealer fixes them and never doubts the integrity of the brand. On the other hand, a person with 3 problems on a VW or American car freaks out and immediately starts a vitriolic campaign against them everywhere he or she can post.

    American and VW cars seem to create paranoia in their purchasers (the "knew I shouldn't have bought this" syndrome). You seem like a perfect candidate for this syndrome.... ;)
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Since you will soon graduate from college, I assume you have limited funds for a down payment on a used 2003+ car. However, you do have a job lined up. Have you looked into leasing a new car? A new car warranty for the duration of the lease would be less expensive than buying an extended warranty on a used car, and would give you more peace of mind than taking your chances on a used car without a warranty. A Golf may be a tight fit for you. You'd be better off actually trying out a few different hatchbacks for comparison rather than asking for other people's opinions.
  • deweydewey Posts: 5,251
    While we North American are still patiently waiting for the fifth generation of the VW Golf, guess what the Volks at Wolfsburg are apparently planning soon?

    A sixth generation Golf!

    But dont get too excited since we will have to wait about a half a decade after the VW VI intro in Europe in order to buy one here(just about the time when Europeans will be driving the newer VW VII) :(

    link title
  • deweydewey Posts: 5,251

    it appears this forum is a solo forum consisting merely of myself.

    So in order to provoke some dialogue I am going to respond to my own post:

    Hey Dewey,

    Here is a link with more information about the 6th generation Golf.


    link title
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    ...when there's something to talk about, we'll talk. Translation: when VW gets off its butt and actually starts to bring the new Golf to our market, we'll have something to discuss. Until then....

    It's been beaten to death before, but VW seems to have a terminal problem with the NA market. Meanwhile, Toyota marches on....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I beleive that the new GTI is part of the "golf" family. I rode along when my daughter test-drove one the other day.

    The accelleration from the 2.0L trubocharged engine can pin one to the seat. The cornering abilities are unmatched. (Salseman took cloverleaf at speed that would make lesser cars squirm) The ESP never came on and the salesman said that during his training, this car has taken the same corner at 10 MPH faster before ESP kicked in.

    The seats are VERY supportive and the new IRS (Indipendant Rear Suspension) makes the vehicle significantly more stable over uneven roads. I spoke to an Audi TT owner that says that the VW GTI is very close to the performance of his TT at half the price.

    My daughter then test-drove a Mazda RX8 (Only rotary engine available in USA) Although the Mazda looks cool and sounds AWESOME with an engine that freely reves well beyond 8,000 RPM.

    After the GTI, my daughter was not impressed by the RX8.

    How is that for some comments on the new Golf?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    ...if you consider the Golf to be a $22k+ car. When most of us speak about the new Golf, we're referring to a car that can be purchased for under $20k. The GTI is fine for what it is. What about the rest of the line?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    My goodness... if you are concerned about a 2 thousand dollar difference , perhaps you should not be looking at a NEW car. Since I keep my cars a minimum of 10 years... that 2,000 dollars amortizies to about $16/month.

    When I look for an automobile which I am going to keep for over 10 years... I look for somthing that I want to be in for that long.... price is perhaps 3rd or 4th on my list.

    Somthing like this;
    1) Rust resistant (I live in Vermont.. Asian cars disenigrate in about 8 years)
    2) Has the amenities my wife desires
    3) efficnecy
    4) price

    The VW Jetta TDI is the ONLY automible that fit all of these.
    1)The 12-year/unlimited-milage corrosion warantee is unmatched among Jetta-contenders.
    2) Wife needed ESP (replacing 4X4 Civic)
    3) 56 MPG !!!
    4) easilly paid for any upfront xtra cost due to #3 above

    As you can see from my comments in previous append... my daughter has different desires in an automobile than I do.
  • I have a 2001 Golf, when the A/C is running on recycled air hardly any air comes out. When you turn the recycle off, it pumps out lots of cold air. Anyone know whats wrong?
  • genuinitygenuinity Posts: 4

    Okay, I have a 2001 VW Golf (GLS 2.0 Engine) and I need to talk to someone who has some knowledge in them.

    Everytime I call the Service department at the dealership they always give me a different answer.

    Example: My friend who has a 1997 Golf her car was reving really high (so does mine - its just not a quiet car) she had her transmission fluid changed and now her car is really quiet. So I called the dealership and he asked why I wanted my trany fluid changed - i explained what my friend had done and he replied with - well if you want to, but u should never have to change your tranny fluid (they are actually blocked off on volkswagens so ONLY the dealership can do this - other than that you have no access to where the fluid is kept - as far as I understand)

    PLUS, lately (couple of months) I'll start my car and it will start but then on the meter that is 10 20 30 40 (sorry dont know what its called) it will rev when i start it and then as it comes down it will start like gasping and then stall. I found if i keep pushing the gas pedal in and out it will backfire but then eventually not stall (dont know if its good for the car)

    Ne whoo I'm really nervous about this and have no idea whats wrong and TOTALLY dont trust the dealership.

    Sorry for the long post but does anyone have experience with this or had this happen to their VW OR is mechanically inclined and can give me some advice as to what to do.

    My car aslo goes through a lot of oil. If i dont go for an oil change every 5000 miles it runs out. And the oil lite comes on. :(

    Also if you can suggest a reputable repair shop that wont screw me over that woudl be great too!

  • allhorizonallhorizon Posts: 483
    OK, here are a few things that may be helpful for you.

    Your transmission is still pretty new, and if I remember correctly, you also have a much better one than the older models. So I wouldn't worry about it, unless you know you have a serious problem with the transmission. Make sure it shifts into the highest gear relatively early at modest acceleration, and that the torque converter locks,i.e., rpms - the "20/30/40 thingy" - become in synch with speed under modest gas and no incline.

    Your engine may run a bit rich; starting problems like you describe most often in my experience happen with this engine if it was almost warmed up, then shut down abruptly and restarted very soon, again. At any rate, perhaps you need a new air filter or something else minor - if you haven't had your regular maintenance done in while, it may be time to do now. If your warranty is out, you have the choice of a reputable independent shop or VW. Take a look at this site for good dealers/ service places in your neighborhood. Unfortunately, although improving, the VW service network is still quite spotty. Independent shops can be excellent, too - ask around.

    Finally, never let your car run out of oil. Please check the oil at least once a month, and refill as necessary. Most older 2.0 engines run very well on 20-50 oil, and don't use any (or very little) between oil changes on that weight. You can't use 5-30 or anything close to that in this engine, especially if it is a few years old.
    Many shops, even VW service centers, don't know this.

    A few 2.0s had problems from manufacturing (e.g., piston rings installed upside down) that caused high oil usage, but you likely would have noticed in the first few thousand miles. For the most part, the 2.0 is almost indestructible. Mine has about 150,000 miles and is still going strong. Incidentally, since I have an older (=lighter) model and the manual transmission, it is quite peppy, too.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I can answer some of your questions....

    Running out of oil: The 2001 2.0L engine is KNOWN to have an oil-consimption problem. NEVER EVER allow it to get so low that the oil-light comes on. If allowed to happen too often ENGINE FAILURE IS IMMINENT!

    Folks with 2001 2.0L engine need to check and top-off the oil EVERY TIME THEN GASTANK IS exceptions.

    BTW: My daughter has a 2001 wiht 2.0L engine... she carries a quart of 5w30 in the trunk and keeps the oil topped up.

    revving when starting: Suspect the MAF (Mass AirfFlow) sensor. There is extended warantee on them from VW.

    Automatic xmission... The dealership is correct in that ONLY somone with computer can check the xmission fluid.

    It wont hurt to clean your snowscreen either.

    Here is a good place to research dealership service departments.

    I hope the above helps you.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Posts: 483
    At least, we had somewhat similar comments! ;)
  • genuinitygenuinity Posts: 4
    Than you so much for your comments. I totally appreciate it. my mechanic seems to think its my oxygen sensor - not sure if thats the same thing as a MIL. Definately going to take the memo that you attached to the dealership b/c i havent heard of it. Although it doenst surprise me - as much as i could love my car the dealership is the problem. they are horrible to deal with :(

    ne whoo thank you for all ur input i totally appreciate it. I'm in candada so im not sure if the memo is good here but im gonna give it a try.

    thanks again!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    In an effort to help clarify things for you

    MIL ==> Malfunction Indicator Lamp (the engine light on the dashboard)

    Oxygen Sensor ==> The O2 sensor is screwed into the exhaust pipe. It "sniffs" the exhaust gasses and reports its findings to the engine-computer . The O2 sensor is NOT used during startup and I would not expect it to affect your revving problem during startup.
  • While driving at about 40mph my golf engine and power steering suddenly shut off. I managed to pull over and tried to restart, but if wouldn't. After waiting for over an hour for the tow to come the car finally turned on, although it turned on I did not trust it to get me home so I had it towed to the shop. Since it's the weekend I won't hear from them til monday. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this strange behavior?

    thanks :sick:
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Something to do with the ECU (engine control unit or computer) since such a massive failure is rare. ECU's are generally programmed to go into "limp mode" before shutting down altogether; and before that the infamous check engine light comes on if the computer detects emissions problems.

    I had a 2001 Golf and very early on, in the first 3000 miles of driving, probably just the first 1000, the engine suddenly shut down completely while driving on the freeway. However, it immediatlely restarted (no need to work ignition switch). It was much like a computer crash but with an immediate reboot.

    I reported it to the dealer but there were no codes and I had no problems until 42,000 miles when I started losing power in the mountains. At first I thought it was vapor lock; it felt like that, like the engine was stumbling or missing unless I gave it a lot of throttle. Finally more severe symptoms manifested at regular altitude, and the check engine light came on. The dealer pulled codes indicating misfires, but could not diagnose the problem. At that point I was on the extended VW warranty, which is apparently much stricter in application than the original warranty, and the dealer told me they couldn't do anything further until they could actually duplicate the problem (the engine would start missing for them). I said I wasn't interested in waiting until I had to be towed in, and they had no response. I traded the car in on a different make shortly thereafter.

    Oddly enough I bought a 2005 Golf later on, since VW's are pretty good driver's cars with good safety equipment. Also, I was willing to cut VW the benefit of the doubt- they aren't the only maker with computer glitches. What annoyed me, of course, was their cavalier attitude to jumping on the problem and fixing it.

    Let us know what you find out. Yours is the closest I have heard to the problem I had. However, it may turn out just to be an ignition module failure, the turbos (I had a 2.0) had notorious coil on plug module failures. Still, it should have gone into limp mode.

    I kept the Golf 2005 for about 2000 miles but then had to trade it in as part of my downsizing from four cars to two.
  • Thanks for your response. What do you mean by limp mode? I'm just worried the repair costs are going to be astronomical, hope it's something really simple like a dirty fuel filter.
  • genuinitygenuinity Posts: 4
    Okay, here is some more information with what Im going through with my car. When it stutters and stalls the power steering turns off and i can turn it a bit off the road until it just dies.

    This only does it when I am starting my car - and only happened once like a year ago while i was driving.

    too bad they didnt diagnose ur problem love to know whats going on with my mechanic thinks i need an new 02 sensor and im taking it into him tomorrow.
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