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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

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Comments

  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    That I'm not sure about.
  • hustlerwoo1hustlerwoo1 Member Posts: 3
    I'm 18 and a college student and wondering what the insurance difference between a Corrola and a Celica would be. I have good grades and a clean record and live in the Los Angeles area, just wondering how big the difference actually is because my father won't buy me a Celica due to its "sportiness".
  • freddi1freddi1 Member Posts: 14
    If you are comparing apple-to-apple coverage, i.e. FULL Comp & Collision and the same liability on each and everything else remains exactly the same (mileage driven, etc.) then the Celica will cost more for a number of reasons. The liability should not change as that is "normally" based on the driver. (Cmp & Collision are usually based on a "cost class", safety items (air bags, ABS, alarms, etc.) Some of the items that protect the driver & passengers may affect liability coverage. The Alarm will lower Comp, ABS should lower collision, etc. The cost is figured on accident, mortality stats as well as the original cost of the car. The easiest thing to do is to get the VIN's (vehicle id #) and give it to your insurance agent to give you a comparative quote for each car. Hands down though, the Corolla will cost less to insure, BUT, won't you always wish you'd bought the Celica ;-) If I were you, I'd make sure Dad gets to drive the Celica when it's around home! That should solve that!
    Hope this helps, I'm sure there must be some agents out there to either add or correct my info. Good Luck & whichever one you choose, drive defensively! PS-I don't live in CA.
  • verozahlverozahl Member Posts: 574
    Insurance question? The operative rule to follow is NOT to drive like I do... that is, you really should consider those numbers on those signs on the roadside.
  • hustlerwoo1hustlerwoo1 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the advice Freddie... I just hope I can convince my father. Do you have any advice for convincing my father? heh heh =)
  • verozahlverozahl Member Posts: 574
    Yes... tell him the Toyota engine sludge improves Toyota reliability. har har LOL
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Just FYI, Toyota has agreed to pick up the bill for any engine failures due to sludge for all the 3.0 engines and the 2.2 from the late 90's - they are now warrantied for eight years from the date they went into service, regardless of mileage. And don't get a corolla just because of the insurance costs, if what you really want is a celica - the celica is way more fun to drive through the canyons!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • hustlerwoo1hustlerwoo1 Member Posts: 3
    I'm glad I asked
  • boomn29boomn29 Member Posts: 189
    Anybody got any information on:
    INTIMIDATOR INTAKE SYSTEMS for 00-up Celica's?

    I have a '01 GTS and am looking for performance mods.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    www.newcelica.org
  • highspeedsurihighspeedsuri Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone!

    i am a new member.....hoping a good and informative on the message board :)

    i am planning to buy a 89 celica - GT- liftback...
    it has presently 40k miles on the 'new' engine and the overall milage it 117k....though it is GT trim, it came with some GT-S features like rear spoiler, body side moldings and premium alloy wheels...

    now the question - how reliable is celica and is it suitable for long drives?

    i am a single person presently in college..

    thanx for u time,

    highspeed.
  • dq1dq1 Member Posts: 44
    Has anyone had an issue where you let the clutch out and the car seems to stumble/lag for about a second until it comes under full power again. Any ideas on the cause? I have an '01 GT with 16k miles.
  • charlyfogcharlyfog Member Posts: 1
    I am considering a 02 celica. Is the gts worth the extra $$$$?
  • boomn29boomn29 Member Posts: 189
    I have the same issue with my 01 GTS (and previously my 00 GTS). Just give it more gas - but then you have to worry about riding/burning the clutch.
    Mine seems to do it more when the car is cold.
  • walter99walter99 Member Posts: 10
    For my money, no. The GTS comes with a very notchy six speed shifter that I did not like at all. To really get the benefit of the extra power in the GTS, the engine has to be at very high rpm's, and finally (I think) the GTS comes with abs, which I have never liked.

    The GT runs on regular gas (I'm currently getting 33 mpg), is peppy, corners like it's on a rail, and has great brakes. All this for $4,000 to $6,000 less that the GTS. For me, the choice was simple, and I haven't regretted my it for a second. I think the Celica GT is one of the great bargains floating around out there.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    I just discovered, the 50/16's on the GTS only come in performance tires, no All Season available. What does that mean? I have 10,000 miles on them, and the fronts are bald, rear is close.

    May go with the Bridgestone S-03 that has high marks at tirerack.com.
  • ckigginsckiggins Member Posts: 68
    Does the car handle well in hard braking situations even without ABS? I've driven some cars that skid VERY easily, making ABS a necessity. Have you noticed that with your Celica?
    I also wonder how bad the insurance companies gouge you for not having ABS.
    Pros/cons??
  • verozahlverozahl Member Posts: 574
    Integra/RSX comes standard with ABS. I have found it to be very useful, in a life-saving sort of way, when Celica people jump out and thus helping me from mixing Celica and Integra paint.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    The 3S-FE engines are reliable engines. It was replaced probably due to heavy city traffic and/or maintenance neglect.

    It still gets decent fuel economy also for those long drives (30 mpg). Just take good care of it.

    A problem which this engine tends to suffer is a leaking distributor O-ring.
  • walter99walter99 Member Posts: 10
    My GT is has been very predictable and easy to control in hard braking. I have not, however, had occasion to brake hard in really wet conditions with it yet. That might be the one situation where abs would be an advantage.

    As far as insurance goes, I believe that I was told that my company (AAA) does not give a discount for ABS. My yearly rate for the 2002 GT is only $150 more than the yearly rate for my 1997 Civic EX (which has abs). If I'm getting dinged for not having abs on the GT, it's not much of a ding.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    The GTS does 60 - 0 in 110 feet, or so (check the spec, I can't remember). Think of all the cars on the road that take a lot longer to brake. You certainly can live without ABS. On the other hand, I'm in Ohio and have come to really like ABS in adverse conditions like rain and snow. I would get them for myself whenever possible.
  • sergeissergeis Member Posts: 134
    Breaks are really great on Celica GT. I never felt a need for ABS. It is exceptionally stable car, handles wet and icy road well.
  • boomn29boomn29 Member Posts: 189
    I personally don't like ABS, and haven't ever had any problems locking up with the wet/snow yet. I fortunately haven't had the chance to test them out really either!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I drove both before buying my GT, and I can tell you the only advantage to that GTS engine is the 6000 rpm+ power boost - fun for racing, but not very driveable day to day. In fact, I think the GT engine has more power and torque at 3000-4000 rpm than the GTS, because it is less peaky. It was certainly a lot more driveable around town and for commuting. Apart from that, what do you get for the extra $5000 of buying the GTS? Rear disc brakes, lower profile tires, and a better stereo. That same stereo is available as an option on the GT, tires and rims can be changed out, which leads you to the inevitable question: is the $5000 worth it for rear discs and the 6000 rpm cam-lift changeover? For me the answer was no, but that is just me.

    By the way, the GT gets better gas mileage and uses regular gas too. AND FYI, ABS is an option on both cars, it is not standard on the GTS.

    (The GTS is also more expensive to insure, with my insurance company, but that ABS would have brought the premium down - I did not get it because it is hard to find a GT with it, and I did not want to wait!)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • palapersonpalaperson Member Posts: 1
    considering the purchase of a GTS. Is Premium recommended in the owner's manual?
  • bpibpi Member Posts: 120
    The GT 5-sp is rated at 28/33, but the auto is rated at 29/36.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    Premium gas is recommended for optimum performance.

    YOu can use regular gas, but you may see some reduced performance.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    The GTS has 11.5/1 compression!!! The engine will self-destruct from regular octane fuel.
  • marktestmarktest Member Posts: 43
    Reply #679 is correct - the owners manual stipulates Oct 91 or higher is REQUIRED. I think the self destruction will take some time, but the owners manual is clear (as well as the sticker on the inside of the gas filler door.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I noticed that when I bought mine - on the GT, the auto gets BETTER gas mileage than the manual! It almost convinced me to buy the auto, but no way did I go that direction in the end - the manual is a lot more fun for me. Besides, the manual is rated at 28/33, and I routinely get more than 35 anyway. I drove from L.A. to San Francisco and got about 40 mpg, and that was going a steady 80 and running the A/C.

    BTW, I had a little conversation with the service people at my dealer about the premium gas issue, and they said it would be a really bad idea to run the GTS on regular gas - it would begin to run really badly. It needs premium. For what it is worth...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    Does anybody here know anything about the 2nd generation Celicas (1978-81)? I want to find out more about my dad's former car, a '78 Celica GT 5-speed. Were these cars any good, in terms of durability or reliability (I don't remember much about his)?
  • lucy23lucy23 Member Posts: 4
    I plan on getting a Celica in a few months. Can anyone tell me if the factory alarm system is any good or should I get a different one installed? Also, has anyone ordered their Celica? How long does it usually take? Thanks!
  • linsavylinsavy Member Posts: 13
    I am not certain but I think that the GT would have had a 22R engine and the GTS the 22RE around that time. Those engine are fantastic work horses. They did duty in the 4Runner and pickup in the '80. Many achieve over 400,000 miles without rebuilds.
    Other than rust, the early celicas were super reliable.
    To find out more, I am sure there are clubs for these cars on the internet somewhere. They make good race platforms and have lots of TRD parts available.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    the 78-81 celicas had the 20R engine, almost as famous as the 22R/22RE for long-lasting power. There was also a celica supra from 80-81 that had a little six cylinder engine in it, with about as much hp as the 86-89 celica four cylinders. The early celicas were known for durability.

    The 20R was used in the 1970's pickups as well.

    My '02 has the Toyota alarm system, and it seems to be fine. It has an engine kill if any door is opened, or if glass breakage is detected - it has a little microphone to detect when glass is broken, and I know it works, because right after I got the car it was vandalized, and the glass was broken, and the alarm went off.

    The Toyota alarm does cost $400 though - you could probably find a substantially cheaper aftermarket alarm.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • techtalkertechtalker Member Posts: 4
    Anyone know the proper cold start idle speed?

    Mine initially starts at 1700RPM's, then about 15-20 seconds later, slowly makes its way down to about 1200 RPM's...once the engine warms up, its idle is around 700 on Drive, and about 850 at Park...also, the RPM's jump to about a 1000RPM momentarily upon transmission shifts (Drive to Reverse or Drive to Park)...

    Are these numbers normal?

    Also, i already have some waterspots on my windshield and mirrors...is there a good consumer product out there to get rid of them??

    Thanks in advance!
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Do you have acid rain? If so check out the "waxes" topics for advice.
    You'll want to protect that car with a good wax/polymer.

    A clay bar (summitracing.com has them) may or may not pull those spots out of the windshield. It can remove surface contaminants, but I wonder if your glass is stained. (Can't tell from the limited info.)

    TIRES
    Went to tirerack looking for reviews of tires. The most positives seemed to come from users of Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position S-03s. My tire dealer doesn't have stock on them. He can get them quickly, and will check pricing for me on Monday. They are $127 at tirerack, and I hope they come within $20 at my local dealer. Not sure since the Michelin Pilots are around $180, but my dealers price was $240! Must be a good markup on tires (which I never knew.)

    The reviews for this size/grade of tire reinforce what I discovered. At 11,000 miles, the Yokohamas up front are shot, and very noisy. I thought I had a bearing problem, but others on the internet have suggested the same: This type of tire makes those kinds of noises when worn.

    I have considered buying custom 15" wheels, and getting an all-season tire, which can't be found in the 16". However, the 15" tires which would save me some money ($80-$100) have pretty bad performance reviews. Although the cost of better tires is very high, I'm not willing to go with something that will perform terribly.

    Out of curiousity I checked out the Acura RSX (I like Acura, and have had 2 Acuras.) They used the 55 series tire. Tirerack has 113 55-series, versus 24 50-series tires. Hate to complain, but was this profile a great performance advantage over the 55? And worth the hassles associated with
    1) Expensive winter tires only made by Pirelli
    2)20,000 (??) max tread wear summer tires ??
  • desert5desert5 Member Posts: 12
    I ordered my 2002 Celica GT according to my own specifications and had it delivered to my front door (150 miles from the dealer) 6 weeks later :-)
  • hbarkhbark Member Posts: 26
    I ordered my 2001 Celica GT from the factory in August 2000, it took 4 months to come in
  • verozahlverozahl Member Posts: 574
    Saw a 1988 Toyota ad for their sporty product lineup... Corolla GTS, Celica All Trac, MR2 coupe, and Supra in one ad. "Toyota - Who Could Ask for Anything More?"

    Too bad Toyota today isn't the Toyota that seemed like it was going to be... but Toyota and Honda current lineups are pretty boring. The action has been moved to Lexus and Acura.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    and not just rumors, that Toyota of old may be coming back, even (dramatic pause), a NEW SUPRA in the next couple of years? If there is a new one, I don't care what it costs, I am trading in my GT on that car!

    In the meantime, a lot of models are supposed to be getting bigger engines (still 4 cyl for celica) that will produce better torque and more hp without super/turbocharging. It would be nice to see Toyota sell more cars that had more than "just enough" power, especially in their sport coupes.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    I'm all for another 15 lbs of torque! :)
  • verozahlverozahl Member Posts: 574
    Toyota doesn't intend to let Nissan and Mazda run around with the 350Z and RX-8. Competition among the Japanese manufacturers gets pretty heavy, hence the new Supra rumors.

    Current Celica styling I dislike (same with Eclipse). Pre-2000 Celicas and Eclipses are very nice in the styling department.
  • lucy23lucy23 Member Posts: 4
    For those who have ordered their cars... how well can you negotiate the price?

    DESERT5... it sounds like you told your dealer what you wanted & he/she found it at another dealership... correct?? I don't know if what I want is worth "ordering" or if the dealer could do it right there. Like wanting only specific extras (example: I know I can get a better alarm, for cheaper)& the ACTION body kit with the regular spoiler (not the one the ACTION package comes with). Do most of the Celica's come with the alarm already installed?
  • marktestmarktest Member Posts: 43
    I replaced my Yokohama tires at 17K because of very little tread and a large amount of noise. Many people chuckle when I say I got Summitomo HTRZ-II tires ( never hearing of Summitomo).

    I will say, I'm very happy with the choice. At $98/tire, better traction wet and dry (the Yokohamas were terrible in rain), much less noise, Z-rated, and with 11K miles on them now - I estimate I have used 30% of the tread. You might want to check them out, the tread pattern takes a little getting use to, but they're a good tire.

    Tirerack has them, but a small tire shop near me ordered them and had them the next day and I got them for $2 less than the tirerack.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    come without the alarm, from my experience. It just so happened that the one I bought had one, but it was the only one I had seen like that, and the only one on their lot that day that had the alarm.

    You will definitely be able to beat the price going with an aftermarket alarm.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • sergeissergeis Member Posts: 134
    I replaced original Dunlops on GT with Michelin Pilots (front only). The noise dropped dramatically; they are smoother and stick better, especially on bumpy roads. I did not believe that tires really matter so much in noise level, but Dunlops were really bad in that department, unless you enjoy noisy ride. I still have plenty of noise coming from rear tires, can't make myself change tires which have minimum wear. By the way, Pilots are somewhat cheaper than Dunlops, why Toyota uses Dunlops at all?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Toyota just puts on whatever (within reason) it can get a really good volume deal on - they get the Dunlops for a lot less than you and I pay, I bet.

    And BTW, my GT came with the Bridgestone Potenzas instead, and if the Michelins are likely to be quieter, I might change them out even tho there is very little wear - these potenzas are noisy!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • boomn29boomn29 Member Posts: 189
    This isn't really and 'alarm' system. It's more of an anti-intrusion system. It disables the igition by disconnecting the power (or something close to this) so the car is "unstealable" according to some dealers.
    It won't set off an alarm if someone breaks in.
  • lucy23lucy23 Member Posts: 4
    So lets say someone breaks into my car to steal the winning lottery ticket (in my dreams), I won't know; but if they try to drive away in the car, they can't? I like the disabler, but I would also want something that is going to make noise if someone tries to pick the lock (or is breaking a window the preferred way of breaking into a car?). I would prefer to get an after the market alarm, but I think the dealers in my area (DC area) put alarms in all of them. I think in the end I will have to special order... depends on if I can get the dealer to give me a good deal on something they have (I am up to date on pricing).
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    in the rest of the country, but I can tell you that my VIP RS3200, or whatever the stock Toyota alarm is called, has a damn loud horn! When my car got vandalized (some kids went by and shot out the drivers window with a bebe gun) it was in the middle of the night, and it woke up the whole neighborhood. A bunch of people came out of their houses to see what was going on. The alarm honks the car's regular horn, as well as having a little siren of its own.

    So if any door is opened, OR if any glass is broken, OR if the ignition is activated without deactivating the alarm first, the alarm goes off with that piercing wail. And at that point the fuel pump is also disabled, so that the car cannot be driven away.

    Luckily for me, the audible horn shuts itself down after a minute or two, and then the next time you go to deactivate the alarm, it gives a special chirp to let you know it was set off. In the meantime, the car cannot be started, and the glass sensor is still active - if more glass is broken, it will set off the horn again.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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