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Mechanically its proven, if nothing else, as the cars pretty much the same for the while decade. got a face lift around 95.
the convertible version is not fast.. and I got a stick shift. I cant imagine driving this thing with an automatic.
engine noise is subdue under 3000rpm. above 3000rpm in fifth gear engine noise is masked by wind noise (its a convertible after all).
roomy for a convertible. but Im only 5-9. good size trunk.
very nice car. love it so much I bought a used one one after I totalled my first one. wouldve bought a new one if it hadnt gone out of production.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The celica convertible would not be the porky street cruiser of its past, or the Solara's present, but would be a real sport convertible coupe.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Anyone else have a clutch go so quickly on the GTS?
Still, if I had my way, they would offer a celica convertible, then change MR2 back to a hard-top, and put the supercharger back in!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Also the flywheel might have a defect that wore the clutch away.
.... hmm, Valet Parking anyone?
good luck with that.
Thanks!
A word of safety: If you're using ramps, you should put a jack stand in place under the car, in case the ramps crush due to the weight of the car. Although the chances are very small, it HAS happened.
I like the idea of using jack stands better than the ramps. I have a set, but they're the large/tall stands, and I'd never get the car up on them. I should go to Summit Racing and get a small set.
Ideally, the car should be in the Great Lakes region, but all responses will be considered.
Thanks.
-Karl
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
There are a few turbo kits for the 5S-FE available also.
My 2000 Toyota Celica GT with 36,000 miles on it will not shift into overdrive.
Has anyone had a similar problem?
The dealer could not fix it the first time in.
The check engine light has also come on and the dealer said they had to order a knock sensor.
I have the impression they were not to sure about the knock sensor but they dont really know why the check engine light came on.
These are the first problems that I have encountered with the 2000 Celica and would most appreciate any input.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The transmission will not shift into overdrive. And the dealer was unable to fix it on the first try. I had to sit there for three hours for nothing.
Any input would be much appreciated.
I got all options, except leather, on my GT-S. That was hard combination to find since most had leather. Every GT-S I drove in the summer with leather seamed too hot for me, even with the A/C cranked up, so I opted for the cloth and have been very happy with it.
Some mods I've done that dramatically increase performance are: AEM cold air intake w/ K&N cone behind left fog light, TRD catback exhaust, and a front strut tower brace. I got a little more low-end torque and lot more high-end HP with the intake and exhaust. The handling response improved (almost too much) with the front tower brace, although I have to keep a firm grip of the wheel over any pavement irregularities.
The best thing I like about this car is not only it's performance characteristics, but the great gas mileage it gets. Around town, stop and go type traffic, I get 28-31 mpg consistently. Out on the open road my best is 39mpg but consistently get 36-38 mpg with CC set to 70-75mph.
Good luck with your acquisition!
Not sure what you're putting it in, but I've had varied results. I had a '90 Prelude Si before the GT-S and it sounded good, helped power, and the noise was not annoying. Put one on my '98 CR-V and I lost low-end torque, gained noise all the time, and finally pulled it out and put the stock one back in.
-Pete
It all depends on how you drive it, do you like to rev it up or short-shift down low? My CR-V I kept the RPM's 4K and below under normal driving. The intake's increase was 5500-6500 rpms, so I had to really get on it right to redline to notice the extra power.
I think it's safe to say you will see an increase in HP somewhere in the power band, usually the in top 25% of the RPM range. But without looking at some dyno results, you really don't know how much of the low-end is effected.
Good luck!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I suggest tirerack.com, as their prices are ridiculously lower than tire stores. I'd pick a price point, and pick a tire with good reviews.
Merry Christmas Celica owners! Anyone out there doing donuts today? Got probably 6 inches of snow in a day, taking Cleveland from pure green & brown to pure white. Well, I hope that makes SOMEBODY happy, 'cause I HATE inclement weather. It's just not safe to drive in!
Guitarzan- Thanks for all your help here. Merry Christmas! ;-)
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
I found his recommendation frightening & interesting. He said that my 6000 mile oil change interval is way too long, and that I must change the oil every 2-3000 miles. He pointed to the recent cases of oil gelling in Toyota's engines. I had read the newspaper articles, but they weren't that informative. He's read a lot more. Says Toyota is right, that the oil changes weren't frequent enough, and the particles in the oil cause it to gel. His recommendation was for owners of all types of vehicles to change the oil at 2-3k miles. Says the newer recommendations for oil changes are way too long, and driving conditions in this country are all close to "severe driving" conditions, no matter what others say.
I used to have that opinion, and kept some of my crankcases perfectly clean. But it is hard to justify, without proof, spending double or triple the $ on oil. I guess it just confuses me more.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic, and a Bosch oil filter, both apparently of very good quality. I understand my GTS engine is very complex. Perhaps I'll change it at 3-4k, a little more frequently. The mechanic DID say that synthetic will go longer between changes, that this is it's "only advantage". I don't know, I'm pretty in-tune to my vehicle. In the cold winter, I can feel changes in vibration in the engine during startup. And these 4-cylinders especially, seem to cold idle much smoother with an oil that flows better, either lower viscosity, or synthetic over petroleum. So, I digress a little with this guy's opinion. And he is one of those people that would be proud to put 200k on his engine, and have it still run perfect. I don't think I'll ever own a car for it's usable life, and I don't think it is that important to treat the engine "gingerly". What's the point of a "like new" engine, when the shocks are done for, joints are ready to collapse, and the 2nd clutch is gonna need replacement...ya know? Sorry for the long rant, but I like to share things I'm told with you guys.
-Pete
I think with minimal by-the-book maintenance it will go to 120K+, and that is five years or more, by which time the idea of getting a new car is growing...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I really wish I had never gotten rid of one of my '84s. It was the best car overall I've ever had. Loved it. I drove it like a dog too, although it wasn't too quick, which is probably why I drove it so hard. It was in pristine condition, I can't believe I got rid of it.
I think I'm getting too old for tiny 2 door coupes though I find this one a tad too crowded and I'm ready to get something with a little more room. I'm really going to miss the handling though when I do trade it in. Its by far the most fun to drive.
Some complaints are the lack of interior space which I can't really complain about because the inside hasn't gotten any smaller than when I first bought it Its definitely not a road trip car though. Also, it has a rattle in the hatchback that dealership didn't seem to fix and the CD player sucks. It spits out cds after 15 mins or so.
The current celica (I had an '02) is a much more efficient engine, so that if you baby it you will have exceptional mileage, and if you drive it like it is supposed to be driven, mileage can drop dramatically. Doing mostly city doesn't help.
I have a light foot and consistently got low-to-mid-30s in mine, which had a manual transmission, in half-and-half city and highway.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I don't drive the car excessively hard but I don't baby it either. I normally will run it up to about 4500 rpm's when accelerating, but I spend a lot of time at 80mph (~4,000 rpm) on the interstate, so I don't think I'm being too hard when accelerating. I have taken it to redline quite a few times but from what I've read in this forum, these engines are designed to take a lot of punishment. My previous auto was a truck with a v6, so maybe I'm just not used to these smaller, higher revving cars.
2001-2003 celica GT MPG city/highway
Manual 28/33
Auto 29/36
I remember noticing this difference on the car window stickers back when I was shopping for a celica in 2001. I asked a salesman why the auto had better mileage than the manual and he had no idea either.