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I have a '94 323 hatchback SOHC 1.6L
It was in good condition and had lots of work done, was running fine until it sat outside for 10 months. Now the starter cranks and cranks but the enginer will not start.
-I replaced the battery, lots of power now
-I ran out the old fuel and got new fuel coming out of the fuel line to the injection manifold
-the spark plugs and wires seem fine
-with a spark plug out, puffs of aerosol fuel come out, so the injectors seem ok
Sparks from the ignition coil seemed "ok" maybe weak. Checked at the spark plugs but the sparks were sporadic and barely visible, maybe 1 out of 10 would actually happen. I replaced the dist. cap and now I see a spark every time at the plugs. I think it might be that the ignition coil got damaged internally by water and ice. I checked resistance across the primary step of the ignition coil and measured only 0.001 ohms instead of the suggest approx 0.75 ohms.
Do I need a new ignition coil? Is there some other problem maybe like the ignitor module?
----
DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR:
I tried to get a new rotor for the distributor but I have had a HECK of a time finding the right one! I bought 2 kinds of aftermarket ones that were 80 thou too small in the female end where the shaft head from the distributor attaches to the rotor. Someone at partsource and the mazda dealership had heard of this problem before and said I needed the original park from mazda, not an aftermarket. I picked up the part from mazda, it's ALMOST big enough but still the wrong one. Two millwrights tried and both insisted it truly is not big enough and not the right one, so it's not a matter of trying harder or knowing how to put a rotor back on. Perhaps there is an aftermarket distributor on? If so, how can I find the right rotor? I can see a mitsubishi symbol on the distributor and T152 on it, there is a mitsubishi symbol on the rotor I got from the mazda dealer and again some kind of similar T### code on it. How can I get ahold of the right rotor?? the people at the dealership and at the garage seem totally confused about why it won't fit.
Thanks a lot to anyone who can help me with this. :confuse: :sick:
Just comin home this evening the wipers on my 1995 Mazda 323 stopped working....they were going fine then they stopped moving mid cycle (i.e. in the middle of the windscreen). I'm guessing it is just a loose connection somewhere cause I can hear what sounds like the wiper motor moving against what ever connects it to the wipers themselves. Anyone experience this before? Any ideas exactly what I need to do to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
PeteC2
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
thanks Kathy
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
:confuse:
The car starts and runs fine. I can drive it on the highway with no problems, but when I get into traffic in the city, after about five minutes, it will just die and not start. The Tach drops completely and dead. It sounds like it is not getting gas. Then I open the hood, wait fifteen minutes, and it starts right up. If I am still in traffic, it will die again in five minutes, I wait ten, and it starts up again. Drive in traffic, a coupld of minutes, it dies, wait ten minutes, and it starts.
My mechanic can´t figure it out! We changed the fuel filter and pump. Cleaned carberator, but it still dies. We have left the car running for 40 minutes, and when it hits the right temp. the fan goes on. :mad:
Anyone with an idea?
As any engine ages, the internal pressure picks up. After a while, around 100-130 K miles for heavy foot drivers, the engine blow by pressure will reach a point where that valve cover gasket is going to leak some even when new. Point to learn here is it pays long term to have a light foot on the gas even for maintenance. Just use a inch pound torque wrench and recheck the bolts holding the gasket down. You can get an inch pound torque wrench from Home Depot or Sears in the tool department. Even if you are still leaking oil and those bolts are torqued to the correct setting, you may increase a few more inch pounds. Not too many or you will break the bolt. Off the top of my head I would say the torque amount to be about 60 inch pounds. Check the book I mention below to be sure. If around 60, don't go past 10-15 more inch pounds or that bolt will break! This is one of the few bolts you can get away with this on an engine.
Now for you girls who can follow a recipe. I suggest you go to the auto parts store and buy a Mazda repair Manual for your car. In my case, the basic manual is a Chilton's Mazda 323/626/929/GLC/MX-6/RX-7, 1978-89 Repair Manual. Part number (8581) 46800 Spend some time with it. It will go into detail how things come apart and go back together. Do not hesitate to ask questions from what you will soon come to know as knowledgeable guys and the ones that do not know anything! That is how I learned about automobile mechanics. I do not buy new cars, I rebuild everything on mine! If you need to save money, check the local library. Also while at the library see if they have any Mitchell or other professional grade books. They may all be greek at first, but you will pick it up soon enough.
Back to the timing belt ordeal. Okay, so someone made the belt change at 60K miles. Has it had the 120K mile change if you just bought the car? Very good question if you just bought the car, because many people will sell the car rather than have that second belt change cost. Don't get caught with a broken timing belt that will ruin the engine. Someone always does! Also, I assume you want relibilty to make it the next 60K miles. The following components should always be changed with that timing belt, every 60K: belt, crankshaft and camshaft seals. Every 120K: timing belt idlers and water pump. Some makes/models have the water pump driven by the cam shaft belt. Anything in that area from oil leaks to a broken water pump can ruin the engine causing the timing belt to fail or come off. These engines are called interference engines. That means if the belt breaks, the pistons will bend a few engine valves at the very least.
Look for a supply house that may have lifetime warranty on the parts. With Daddy's car at 250K miles, our supply house was handing me new free parts at the last service point! I love it! I have set an e-mail alert here if you still need help. Our car has thrown a lot at me, so very little is new to me. Good luck.
Wiring diagram method: locate the point in the wiring diagram and on the car, where the battery power comes out of the ignition switch and goes to the engine power supply. There may be several supplys such as ignition, ECU and so on. If so, you will have to test each one alone. Power should be one with engine running. Have someone watch the meter while you drive. If the voltage drops out when the engine dies, you 99% likely to have a bad ignition switch!
Educated guess method: The other option is to take my bet and just change the switch! The older Ford's had problems with cars that had city miles on them totaling about 100k miles. That should give you a clue in tewrms of wear point. Would love to hear the results.
Okay, the part is wrong by computer, hopefully the manufacter of that part like Borg Warner for a good example, has the correct part in the supplier books. Ask to see their supplier books. If your parts supplier does not have the books, ask for a customer help line to Borg Warner for ignition parts. Google, 37, whatever.com search engine may help as well.
Now, direct to your problem. If you are getting a good confirmed spark at each plug end of wires then I think we can rule spark out. Your vehicle was stored for ten months. I store a lot of vehicles as well. Sometimes much longer than that. The system that gives me the most trouble is the fuel system. You said you have fuel flow. Question now becomes what about fuel, air and timing? Check your air flow intakes for a bird nest or something else that moved in. Old cars make great homes for wild things! Block off the air flow, you are out of business. The next thing, fuel pumps. Many EFI systems must have enough fuel pressure to get enough into the cylinder to start the engine. Get a high pressure fuel tester to check this. Also check to see if your car has a cold start injector. If so, is it working. What about the air bypass valve? Not as likely to be a problem, but worth the check towards the end here, pull you timing belt covers off and make sure your timing belt has not jumped a tooth.
All of this fails, welcome to my neighborhood. It now becomes a trip to the library to find some Professional level Mitchel manuals to troubleshoot the fuel injection system. You might as well know, this is one of those problems I will work a bit on, then walk away from it before I get mad at it! Take your time with it. Talk with a few other pros. Never know when someone hit the same problem and solved it.
Welcome to the world of electronics. One of the biggest problems I have dealt with on our 89 323, also very related to the 86-89 323's very similar to the 90's and up units, has been the airflow meter. Ah, this could also be a hard too start or rough idling problem for other people out there. Now for procedure. Take out a good sharp new utility knife. Cut the silicone around the little black plastic top on the air flow meter which is located just behind the air intake. Take a volt meter, refer to a wiring diagram for that meter from either Mitchel's profession manuals or maybe the dealer can supply info. I do have a factory service manual for this one if need be. You want to check that the fuel pump switch is working to turn on the fuel pump relay. If the switch is working, then check at that point to see if you are getting power from the main relay, which is located by the battery on 323's. The main relay gets its power from the ignition switch looking at my book. The main relay looks like an old Chevy horn relay from the top side. While you are in there, check the carbon track on the rheostat for wear. If it becomes worn it will cause a somewhat rough idle or a no start. If the carbon track is worn, like me you you want it cheap, loosen the screws to the circuit board and slide it a little bit to make new contact on unworn track area. If this fixes it, look for another air flow meter not so worn out in the junk yard for a spare until that part of the track is gone. Another 100 miles hopefully! Sure beats spending $300 for a reman! Oh, before you close up at this point, make sure you reseal that black top on the air flow unit with new fresh clear silicone. You do not want any dirt in there.
Okay, lets assume a no start at this point. Go the other direction in the wiring diagram and inspect the fuel pump fuse, relay and last of all the pump. If the pump was not working in the first place, there would of been no fuel pressure, which means for some reason the first test failed! But that never happens right? Not exactly!
Never hurts to have double tests! Remember I said correct fuel pressure! Our Mazda 323 had a no start with low pressure at 200K miles. That prompted replacing the fuel pump with a Carter brand unit which brought it back to life. The other no start was the mass airflow unit at 150K. Another because the battery cranking voltage was a bit below 10 volts. And the real humdinger of all the no starts was the distributor.
Distributor. We run synthetic oil in ours now. We breakin frist 500 to 1K miles. then switch to synthetic. Nice stuff. Your gas mileage goes up as well as part wear. The problem I have found with synthetic is it is so good, too much of it gets into the distributor and shorts out not only the cap/rotor but also the pickup chip. Just pull the distributor, disassemble and clean it out. If your distributor is like mine 86-89 Mazda, it will have two oil holes in the base of it. Later Mazdas do not have those holes. Take a small brad that will fit tightly, cut it short enough to fit tight and not jam up the other mechanical parts and close off those holes. After all of this is done, she should start up. If not, check to see if you are getting a signal from the pickup chip, easily verified if you are getting a spark. If no spark, take off to the junk yard and grab another whole distributor and ECU while you are there.
Back to the synthetic oil. I have not been totally successful in keeping the synthetic oil out of the distributor. I will keep the oil because the car does almost 40mpg on it and the wear is very low. I do keep an extra distributor I rebuilt ready to go in. I have both units with scribe marks to the head and distributor base for a correct timing line up. That way I can pull one unit, slap in the next one right on the side of the road!
I think you have plenty at this point to get you going. If not, holler, I will put the thinking cap on again.
First of all, you mentioned a new engine. New engines give off a lot of heat. If you have an old radiator, GET A NEW ONE! Old radiators will ruin a new engine every time. Even rodding them out is not enough. Also, when we installed a our new engine back in 2000, I put in the 192 degree stat. That was what was called for by the OEM book. The motor was always hotter than usual and blew a few new radiator's out under warranty as well. Well, when this engine reached a 120K mile service point and the whole cooling system was redone, we went to a 180 degree stat. That unit does a much better job even with the a/c running. Before hand, the a/c was just a bit too much. If your mechanic is worth his salt, he would have installed a new thermostat. See if he can tell you which one is in there. Check to see what the story is on the radiator as well. That info will tell you what you need to do. This information may even be on the repair invoice.
Stat testing is easy. Get a pot of cold water if you do have to take it out, put the unit in it with a thermometer. Bring it to a boil and note the temperature it starts to open at. That is the temp that should be stamped on the bottom of the copper bulb. Pay attention to whether that temp is in F or C degrees. Most stats are marked in F degrees, but some units from over seas are marked in C degrees.
Location of the device. I still can not stress enough, get a repair manual here. It will cook book the procedure much better than I could do on the net. Locate the distributor on the end of the engine by the drivers side. Underneath it is the thermostat housing. Look carefully at the switch in the housing. Many of those switches are broken by people who are not careful when pulling this thing out. That switch is a dealer item only at about $40! This engine has about 4 thermo switches on it and this one is the only one that is dealer only item! I find it easiest to pull the distrubtor out to access the thermostat and not break that stupid switch. First, lets really make your life easy on that distributor part when it comes to pulling it and re installing it. Take a chisel to the top part of the distributor base and make a scribe mark on the flattest section between the engine head and the base of the distributor lining up with each part. That is your line up timing marks when you reinstall! The distributor will go one way in. Look at the base of the unit when you remove it and you will see that the flat drive part is off center. When you go to reinstall pay attention to how that lines up with the camshaft inside the opening in the head. You may wish to have that distributor cap off so you can turn it to fit it in properly. Good time to inspect the cap and rotor as well. They should also be new after a good rebuild. Check while it is out to make sure the distributor base o ring is in good shape. If not, your mechanic has cut corners on your rebuild. Another trick. Take a permanent marker before you pull the spark plug wires and mark the cylinders numbers on the top of the valve cover. Refer to repair manual for which is which. Take a small regular screw driver and scratch those same numbers on the distributor cap by each wire tower that wire goes to before you take those wires off. This will save you a lot of headaches later on misfires, no starts and backfiring troubles.
Believe me, I have had that fun, because our new engine from Mazda is 180 degrees opposite from the book! I finally got smart and tagged everything there because I keep forgetting that one fact! Now I can tear that part apart and put it back in less than 30 minutes on the side of the road if our distributor gets synthetic oil flooding after a while. Mentioned in another message.
Okay, distributor is out, now you can get to the thermostat housing easy. I recall it being two 13 mm bolt heads. The bolts are two different lengths. Pay attention to where each goes. If you forget, the trick for that is to slip each bolt in and check to see if the ends sticking out are the same length before reinstalling. Oh, speaking of bolts, the distributor is held down with two same length 12 mm bolt heads. Remember this is an aluminin head so pay attention to how tight you tighten stuff later one.How much force you have to use to remove something will give you some idea as to how tight you have to be when reinstalling. That does not apply though if the threads are dirty. Not too tight or you will break a bolt! Clean those bolt threads and use antiseize when reinstalling both of these bolts sections.
Side mounted thermostats are a bit tricky to install. First cafefully scrape off the old gasket from the head. Use a fine wire brush on a tool to finish up, but be careful not to get any little broken wires from the brush into the head. Block it off by stuffing a rag into the opening deep enough to not get into the spinning brush but where you can pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Repeat the cleaning procedure on the housing piece. If you have a stick on gasket for the new one, you can apply it to hold the stat in place in the head before replacing it in the head. The thermostat goes in one way, bulb part into engine and turned in one position only. So pay attention which way it is in there. If need be, get that permenant marker again and mark it with line up marks again. Just like the distributor, but you are using a marker instead.
Another trick to make clean up easier on the next tear down, coat the other side of the non sticky gasket side with a THIN coat of black silicone. Wait 10-15 minutes and bolt up. Removal will be easier next time.
These tips should make the job a lot easier, but like I said first, find out what was done by the mecahnic. Go into based on that info. If you need to go into it, get that book Chilton's Mazda 323 1978- 1989 from a parts house. Pay great attention to what you are doing and make notes on paper if need be. Permanent marker and a scribe chisel will help you out a lot as well. Also note, that I am assuming you have some basic knowledge of tools. If not, that chilton's book will help there as well. My favorite tool "toy store" is Harbor Freight. Great for this car, because this car has a way of taking your tools when you drop them and you can not get them back easily!
3rd, you need a digital volt meter ideally, or a 12 volt trouble lamp, the trouble lamp would be more headache to use than a meter. Harbor Freight is a great source to pick up an item like this for a first one to learn on. Read the instructions for that DVM, Digital Volt Meter. Try it out on the battery voltage connected to the battery directly to give yourself some idea how it works reading voltage. Switch it to ohms, the upside down horseshoe and connect the leads together, the almost zero reading is what you get with a dead short or connection. Depending what you are looking for.
Now, for the fun. Find the locations for the factory speaker locations. Whereever they are, there is usually a factory wiring already in there for a radio. If the radio is being replaced, then all you have to do is see what the colors of those wires are. Wait until you are completely finished before re installing this stuff and everything works. Once you have the color codes written down for each location, you can return to the dash radio location. Look for a connector/connectors/wire harness with those same wire colors. Never a radio in dash, you should find a plug. If there is an old radio being replaced you should find the old wiring system easily. Do the next step if you are not sure the wires are correct or to verify them. Take an old extension cord that you do not want that is about 15 feet long. Cut off the ends, strip them and if you have or can get some alligator clips install them. Also available from Harbor Freight. Clip one end to a bare connection by the speaker location and go to the front to locate the same wire color. Now you want to switch the DVM to ohms which will have what looks like an upside horse shoe. Switch it to the lowest number on the scale for that purpose. Check owners manual for DVM for more info. By the radio location, when you connect on DVM meter lead to the same color wire you are checking at the speaker location and the other meter lead to the extesion cord wire, the reading should be less than 10 omhs. If you get this reading, that means you definitely have the same wire or that if it is the same wire, it is broken somewhere. Any way, you want to check each of the front wires ends to each of the wires at the speaker locations. Make notes as you go on paper what is what.
Next, you want to verify your power leads. Chances are very good that will be the last few wires in that harnass. Check on DC volt scale with a number greater than 12 volts, but close to it. For example, my meter has 20 V with a straight line to indicate volts DC on it: that is the scale I use on most car stuff. Check each wire until you find one with battery voltage with key off. Use the positive, red wire to check while you or someone is holding the black lead to ground which is some metal frame somewhere. Then check each one until you find the other one with battery voltage when the key is turned on accesory or when the car is running. That should locate most of the lines you need short of ground. That can easily be accessed using some screw some where that is in metal. Don't make the mistake of screwing in a new sheet metal screw for a ground connection unless you know for sure what is behind it. I have seen heater cores and owners get screwed over that one! No fun to replace heater cores either!
If this works out for you great, that should cover it unless someone has tampered with the original stuff. Holler back if that appears to be the cas
Without year, model type, non-turbo versus turbo I could only begin to give you a correct answer. For 1978- 1989 book I have, I show two different but very close ranges. 1.5 which is usually called a 1.6 as being 56-59 foot pounds, usually the non-turbo unit. The 1.6 as being 56-60 foot pounds. The latter is usually the turbo model. Always be sure, because my replacement crate engine does not fit the book!
Hmmm, maybe we should all get together and set up an old car buff network on Edmunds. That would put more eyes out into the junk yards across the country! Anyone else out there game for this idea? It has been awhile since I was out in the yards last, but then again that only lasts until something breaks or someone hits me. Send me a vin and date of manufacture, I'll check my favorite hunting grounds if I have to go out.
Not availble part at all just means some additional shop time to make a suitable replacement part. Make XXXXXX XXXXX sure that the replacement redesigned part will do the job, because if all hell breaks loose in an accident, it becomes your butt on the legal line! You are on your own for this one! As for me, it would not be the first time I came up with a remaned shop part!
Managed to find my rear lateral link with these guys - North Penn Mazda(http://www.northpennmazda.com). They seem to have a lot of suspension parts readily available. Got the link and some bushings, now I'm waiting for the shipment on Monday in order to start working on the car. Thanks to everyone who replied!
Edit: Btw, there are some real nice illustrations in their mechanical catalog. For example a decent exploded view of the rear suspension on a 323 Hatchback, that you can't find in Chilton's.
I live in the mountains and it takes the curves and hills great (or did until a few days ago) There's hills around that in any other car I'd need to downsift-but this handles in top gear (4th) no problem.
I'm praying I don't need to do a timing belt.
My sense is that the 323's are very low maintanance....in terms of how oftwen you fuss with it. However---some repairs can be pretty complicated. I used to do a Pinto timing belt in less than a half hour. My Camry? about 2 days of profanity. I hope if I need a belt on the Mazda it's not an ordeal. I do think-well maintained-300,000 miles is a pretty good target for the engine.
good luck
First, never ignore that timing belt. That engine is an interference engine, meaning valves will hit the pistons if it breaks. Always change the crank and cam seals when you go into it. Every 120 k change out the belt tensioner and the water pump as well.
The gear boxes hold up well from what I have seen so far. The original made it to 238K when we changed it out for a 5 speed because of gas prices.
Last of all, you have reached a mileage that anything goes so to speak. But I am way ahead of you on that game. Ours has tossed a few good fuel injection problems at me in the past few years. Recently she has been well behaved.
As you noted, with the newer cars, this one is easy to work on. We would drop another 2-3K in a heartbeat to overhaul the engine correctly. I can not stress that last word enough! Ask around for who has a good rebuilding machine shop. Who do the dealers use? What about other trade contacts? Be ready to pay their price, because it will not be cheap. In the end, you will have a good rebuilt engine. Never cut corners on these engines, because they are like dominoes. One thing breaks and it could lead to major damage, like over heating a head! I still am seeing a one or two in the junk yards. Saw an 87 Labor Day with 219K on it.