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I am a happy owner of 1992 Mazda 323 SE w/Auto box. I am really happy with it as it handles like no other econo-box out there - just like a mini go-kart.
I have one big problem with it - the overdrive on automatic tranny is triggered by a temperature sensor - during cold Canadian winters it takes time for the car to warm up fully and sometimes travelling on the highway the overdrive does not kick in for a while (this causes very high rpm and poor mileage).
Is there a way to override this temperature triggering sensor for the overdrive - I would like to make it so from the time I start the car the overdrive will work.
Please help, thank you.
My combination Switch needs attention, when I indicate left (with lights on) my full beam is activated - I find that this annoys other road users.
Also (this problem has been present for many years) when trying to turn the lights off I find that I need to indicate right in order to do this.
Obviously the switch is getting old, I have had a quote from a Mazda dealer - £125.00
Before I take the plunge and purchase this new switch I think it is worth asking forum viewers if there is any point in inspecting the switch and looking for any obvious problems which I will be able to repair myself..
The switch seems fairly easy to remove, but I haven't attempted to take the actual switch apart yet..
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance.
BTW, I drive a 1992 Ford Laser GLX 1.6, AUTO tranny, gas millage is impresive, 14 km/litre in heavy asia city traffic, my tranny shifting is kicking from 1 to 2 gear, so I am going to do a rework on hope plate soon.
thx,
baz666
toronto,
canada
I recently went through wiper problems on my 1990 RX7 convertible. The wipers would only work on low speed. The high, intermittent, mist, and washer wipe functions didn't work. A rebuilt wiper combination switch fixed the problem. The internal relay was what failed and I discovered via the internet that this is a very common problem on many Mazdas. Good luck on the repairs!
DO NOT BUY AFTER MARKET MODULES for your 323.
The modules MUST be from Mazda. Our 323's Module died on us and we could not start the Mazda it was replaced by an after market module. The car ran for about 6 weeks and stopped. This happened with three different after market modules until I asked the mechanic if he used a Mazda module, I was told it was after market. I requested a Mazda module and the car has run without problems ever since. CAUTION do not use after market Modules as the program in the module is different in the Mazda product. It gets expensive to purchase them, when the investment of a few dollars more for a Mazda module is well worth it.
thx,
baz
UK 1992 323 1500 Carburetor, 5 speed manual
I have an internittent problem which usually appears after driving a short distance, say 2 miles or 5-10 minutes then stopping the engine. When I turn ignition on again the "Rear" warning light (which is supposed to indicate failed stop light) is on. Engine will not start and there is no spark and no fuel (dry plugs). Car needs to be left for 20 mins to 1 hour when it will then start OK.
Car is UK spec. Engine is a 1500 Carburetor (so no injectors), no cat either.
Disconnecting battery for 5 minutes or so makes no difference, fault is still there. No fuses are blown. Nothing electrical in engine bay seems overheated.
Does anyone have any ideas where the fault might be, which component may be failing?
Thanks,
Peter
323 SE Exectutive Registered 1 August 1990 1598cc 16valve SOHC Carburetor
"Rear" warning light is now on at evry switch on of ignition, goes out when engine starts. All rear lights including fogs are working.
Peter
I've replaced the entire exhaust system, and the brakes twice, and two tires. She's got a little rust, around the doors and apparently under the driver's seat. I had to have the driver-side window and the windshield replaced. I've been rear-ended twice - she's working on rear bumper number three now - and smacked into someone right good and needed the passenger side headlamp and flashers redone a year ago. My rear window wiring has been cut and crimped until we can isolate the short that was killing my brakes and horn (which work now).
The car has 185k on it. I thought it was overdue for a transmission fluid change. That's when it all started to go wrong.
My mechanic, god bless him, did exactly what I asked him to do. What the Haynes, the Edmunds maintenance schedule, and the guys at Mr. Lube all agreed she was brutally overdue for. A simple automatic transmission fluid flush and filter change. The car drove for a day and a half, and then stopped dead in the middle of traffic. No, the engine didn't die, the car just stopped moving.
Thankfully, my mechanic is a resourceful coot and found me a replacement transmission box reasonably cheap (<100 Cdn). We figure the tranny fluid cleaned the engine out and dumped thirteen years worth of oil and carbon and metal filings right into my all-electrical digitally controlled transmission. The engine runs, she throttles beautifully, I can change gears... but the wheels don't turn.
Is there anything I should know before we try to perform major surgery on my poor car? I seem to remember tripping over information somewhere that implied that you have to change the radiator at the same time you change the transmission, but now I can't find it. Anyone know anything about that?
I'm hoping we can resurrect her. I'm kind of attached to her, and don't *really* have 3k to drop on a replacement right now, much less trying to find anon-domestic 15 miles a gallon replacement. [grr]
-Betty-
(wordartist)
I have a Mazda Protege with 185K miles. Recently, when I try to turn on the A/C, it doesn't blow cool air. What could be the possible cause for this? I was thinking a leak, but where?
Also, Does anyone know where I could get a diagram that details where all the fluids chambers are located in my car? I know where the washer fluid and power steering fluid goes, but I really need to locate where the coolant, brake fluid, and transmission fluid go. Also where do I find the chamber that houses the Freon?
If there is no diagram available, can someone instruct me where all these fluid chambers are located.
Thank you,
gia
>all these fluid chambers are located.
Personally, I found the Hayes manual available for the 323 to be quite detailed. It has photos of the engine from the top and bottom with arrows and numbers to help you find stuff.
-B-
I believe you have either a 323 or a Protege. I see you've posted in the Protege Problems & Solutions discussion - that's a good resource for you.
You might want to clarify exactly which model you have, though. I don't know if that will make a difference in the answers to your questions, but it certainly could.
I have gone to so many mechanics here in Australia over this, and no one has fixed it yet. I've got a 4 speed auto right, and it stalls. Now everyone keeps telling me that it's not reving correctly at low speeds so thats why it's cutting out. However no one has succeeded in fixing this for me. It happens alot when I am reversing, in traffic like accelrating then braking constentaly, even at round abouts. Now i dont know too much about the technical side of cars, but the only thing one of the mechanics did for me was raise some idelling thingy in my engine, but another one who looked at it brought it down cos he said it was going to blow my gear box if i kept driving with it being so high.
Is there a way to fix this without spending a fortune on some other guy who doesn't know what they are even fixing???!!!! :confuse:
To the person whose whells would not turn-that is probably your CVC joints on front axle need to be replaced. Just had mine done.
Any help is appreciated
to lurnjac: The only things I can think of are fuel pump failure, alternator (or wiring) failure and broken timing belt. Checked those?
On a side note, I have an '87 323 with 203,000 miles. Running strong with no major engine work ever, good gas mileage and easy to maintain IMO. Why can't they make engines like this in American cars?
Did you discover your problem? If so, was it repairable?
I also have an '88 Mazda 323 (std transmission) with about 128,000 miles. It has run very well and only needed routine maintenance to date. But now I have the same problem--it suddenly died while driving it. I have replaced all tune-up parts (plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap & rotor, and fuel filter). I also checked the resistances that I could check with a simple voltmeter per my Chilton manual. All that seems o.k. I don't think it's an alternator problem because the battery still had a good charge and would the engine for a good while. With the distributor cap off, I could see that the rotor still spins while ing. I am guessing that means that the timing belt is still in one piece; besides, I just replaced it about 20,000 miles ago. Removing enough hardware to see the entire timing belt is quite a job and I don't want to do that if there's a simple test to see if it's o.k. My Chilton manual does not contain anymore helpful advice to diagnose the problem. From previous posted messages, I gather that the vehicle has some sort of computer brain ("module") somewhere. Could someone enlighten me as to where it is and how to replace it? Also, is this an excessive expense to keep this car running?
When replacing the fuel filter, there was some gasoline leakage. I am guessing that means that the fuel pump is still pumping. Is there a simple test for the fuel pump, particularly one that doesn't get you covered with gasoline?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
The problem may not be in the FRONT of your car at all.
If you have a rear defroster or rear wiper system, open the hatch and cut the rubber hose off of the wire bundle that runs into the roof of the car on the door. That bundle is really badly arranged and not very well insulated, and when things started going to heck on mine, that was the culprit - the wires had fused. (First the rear wiper, then the defroster, then the horn and brake lights, then the solenoid for getting it out of park...) We practically dismantled the whole car before we figured it out, so maybe I can save you some time.
In the short run, if the wire bundle is fused, you can cut and crimp them all, but you'll have to rewire the bundle eventually. Have a care, the wires are flipping short and the plastic rim on the window is quite difficult to get off - you'll have to add more wire when you splice them.
-Betty-
We have put new brakes on it- and they worked fine for about a year- then one day i was driving and the brake pressure was completely gone i pumped them and still nothing. We were told it could be the master cylinder- we replaced it and bled the lines as we were supposed to. Still didn't solve the problem. When i start my car, i will pump the brake pedal before i start it to get pressure- then i'll start the car, and all the pressure is gone. Or i'll pump them, then step on them again, and it's gone. Some people are telling me it could be my vacuum/power booster.
I'm about to go crazy as I really need my car!!!!! Can anyone help me? :confuse:
Thanks,
Jennessa from Valparaiso IN
discussion you will get more help than you ever imagined. Soon, you will be the brake expert and the envy of your friends...
thanks
I have a 91 Mazda 323 and it just started acting up. The other day it just died on me and I needed a boost. I thought it was the battery so I changed the battery out and it did the same thing. I then thought it might be the Automatic start I have so I took that out and still the same thing. It just dies. When I boost it and then take the cables off the battery the alternator still works. But could it be the alternator. Are Mazda's know to go through alternators??
i am getting a 323 for 50 bucks, cant go wrong .tis my cousins car and is in pretty good nick cause shes looked after it.she said something about it actually being an 85 model but released as an 86 here in australia.can anyone tell me the difference??its a 1.6 litre has ti or sommin chucked on the end.buggered if i know what that means.im also wondering if its carbie or efi.i havent really looked in the engine or anything cause its not officially mine.another 2 months and it will be.oh yeah and does anyone know of any mazda clubs here in australia that actually have info about my model.all the sites ive been to have been like 88 or 90 onwards.im not really interested in modding it out too much.maybe a little performance boost but the rest will be aesthetics.its in desperate need of a new paint job.its silver and the paint looks as if theres been a pair of skis permanently attached to the roof and the bonnet.problem is i wouldnt have a clue where to start.any tips would be great.
cheers
Home handy man trying to change filter in wifes Mazda Astina 323 2000 model
Cant find it. A bad batch of fuel has either blocked filter . Need help wife loosing faith. anyone pls ">
The WORST thing about this car is that it never dies, it just keeps on going no matter how much I abuse it!
Ok, it's not a bad car, but it was my wifes car when we got married 10 years ago, since then I've gotten her 3 different newer/nicer cars, and I took the 323.
So if thought 'ok', it's paid for, gets great MPG's, the A/C and radio work good, so I'll just live with it until it dies. I abuse the car like crazy, change the oil ever 3 - 4 years and it still starts up first time ever time. It now has over 210,000 hard miles, is still pretty zippy, will just about turn around in a parking spot, uses hardly any of the $3.29/gallon gas.
In the last 10 years I've spent maybe $250 in parts total! That is less than half a monthly payment on many new cars!
It needed new front brakes about 3 years ago, $25.
A new catalectic converter 2 years ago to pass smog installed at "el'cheapo's garage". $140
A new thermostat, after about a year of a pegged temp gauge! $6.
A battery $45.
So I should love the car, but I would like something new(er). If you want something cheap to own & drive, I can't say they are all good, but mine seems indestructible.
It seems to drive fine in cooler temps. When it hits warmer times in the afternoon.. it will run for a little then just die like it looses fire or fuel. Give it like 30 seconds to a minute...and it will start for a while. Maybe 1/2 mile down the road...it dies again. I bought a new Ignition coil, new spark plugs and new wires. Checked the Distibutor and Rotor...they look almost new. What the heck is wrong!!!! So frustrated right now. :mad:
These cars are not perfect, but they do go a long way with a little TLC.
Chris
great forum, just had a read through most of the posts.
I have a 1994 5sp 2.0L V6 manual Astina hatch (170,000 kms), have noticed recently that there is sometimes a highish frequency screeching noise as the car is moving from the front of the car, happens in all the gears, I the speed is proportional to the speed somewhat which would suggest a belt or moving part?
I'm going to take it in for a service, just wondering if anyone has a few ideas what it be so I can at least hold my own a little with the mechanic when I discuss it with them. Could it also be something like worn rockers in the engine or something else? What would be the candidate belts?
Cheers,
Michael
Did you have Freon checked? Shop is the only place where it can be done, unless you have purchased the expense equipment to recharge freon. User manual will indicate where fluids can be added. Have you heard the 710 joke?