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Volvo V70 Wagon Experience



  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    a blown left rear tire that they charged me to replace.

    I'm sorry, but if you blew out the tire,why shouldn't you pay to replace it?
  • Hello,

    I was doing a little research on my car and a problem i am having and came across your post. Do you remember how to replace the viscous coupler?

    The car seems to be making a clunking sound when it is turned at sharp radius and as far as I can tell that is what needs replacement.

  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    This may be the catalytic converter; it was on my 2004 V70. The innards of the converter came loose and it rattled under certain conditons. The Volvo technician discovered it by rapping on the converter with a soft mallet. Volvo replaced the cat under warranty.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Could also be a suspension bushing.
  • Has anyone has their 2004 V70 suddently lose power while driving? This happened to me the other night and was pretty scary. Of course, the dealer could not find anything wrong. I was going 25-30 into a parking lot (luckily) - the lights on the dash remained on. Was able to restart, but now I am afraid to drive it.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    My 2004 base model V70 non-turbo 2.4l 5-cyl (34,000 mi on odometer) has never done that. How many miles do you have on yours? Could it be the accelerator pedal sending unit? the ignition switch?

    Just wait till it happens again, if it ever does.
  • ptg0ptg0 Posts: 4
    I am new to this forum but I have 2 Volvo's. A 1994 850Glt with 230,000 and a 2002 V70 with 93,000 m. My experience is NEVER take it to the dealer. The dealer is not your friend. Also, NEVER buy a new one. Aside from that, I run the cheapest M/S tires I can find on the 850. I run Kelly M/S on the V70. They are one notch up from the cheapest. My 850 performs BETTER in the snow than my Ford F-150 4x4 or my V70 with the better tires. My wife drives the V70 thats why I put better tires on it. Anyone (the dealer or tire guy) that works on your car will tell you that the front suspension bushings are worn out. BS. I have replaced the front axle shafts, brake rotors, rear shock mounts, tires, plugs, cap and the starter on my 850. I also bought a spare computer off e-bay for 20.00. Thats it after 230,000m's The belt was replaced at 90,000 and no more belts for that one. I have replaced my brake pads once, plugs once and starter once on the V70 and thats it. I run synthetic in both and K&N lifetime air filters on both. One thing to note about these cars are bizzare electrical problems. Both suffer from the starter occasionally not working but if you tap them with a hammer or wrench, they start working again. I find that weird but my wife has been able to do it with the same results so I am not replacing the starter until I am sure that it is bad. Another thing is with the 850 I have occasional bizzare problems witht the transmission computer. I disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and they dissapear. I really like both vehicles. I find them actually quite dependable but you really want to carry some tools with you and make friends with an honest repair person. Most mechanics can work on them and they really get a kick out of the miles that you can turn on them. I have my mechanic do things like replace axle shafts and remove bolts that I break off but thats about it. Buy the Chiltons repair manual and NEVER GO TO THE DEALER! I have driven the 2008 v70 and would not reccommend it for purchase. I do not think that they need the 6 cyl. or 6 speed auto. I also do not think they need all of the electronics especially with the poor luck they seem to have with electrical issues. I really HATE the key fob. I think all of the extra chrome and whatnot is like putting perfume on a pig. Useless. Stick to the well kept used ones and save yourself some dough.
  • hollybshollybs Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 V70 and have had no real problems with it until now. After starting the car after it has not been driven overnight or for several hours, I start out, come to a stop--if I let my foot a bit off the brake, the car shakes back and forth and the dash lights flicker. This has been going on for several months, took it into the dealer, they cleaned out throttle (which apparently was a re-call item). This did not improve the problem. Now the last two days, I have had two instances of the power just cutting out completely. Almost caused an accident as I was on the ramp getting onto the highway. So, tomorrow the car is going in, but wanted to know if anyone else has had this experience or knows what it could be.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    Before you take it in you might investigate the problem with the electronic throttle module (ETM). Check out this site
  • gavin_v70gavin_v70 Posts: 2
    Need advice from the community on the best choice for adding roof rails/rack for a cargo box. I have a 2007 v70 2.4 (base model). I am preparing for a cross continental trip for which I need a cargo box. From searching this and other forums, I gather that there are a number of options which I summarize below.

    - Add the Euro Rails, crossbars and a box.
    Pluses: looks good, supports a big load, more secure?
    Minuses: more expensive than other options.

    - Purchase a pair of Volvo load carrier crossbars (part number 9204962) and purchase a cargo box either from Volvo or a vendor like Thule or Yakima.
    Pluses: much less expensive than other options, carriers attach to crossbar on the v70, carriers are removable
    Minuses: support a lighter load?, less secure, more difficult

    - Purchase a full rail, load bar and box system from Thule or Yakima
    Pluses: less expensive than Volvo Eurorail system, works well with Thule carriers
    Minuses: installation of rails requires drilling in v70 roof, problems w/leakage

    Are there other options I haven't mentioned? What were your experiences with the respective approaches? Other comments about traveling long distance with a cargo box will also be appreciated.

    Thanks a lot! :)
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    We got the dealer at time of purchase put Eurorails put on our 2004 V70 base model, got the Volvo crossbars, and a Thule aerodynamic 18 cu ft box (Thule Atlantis 1800 I think). We took a camping trip with this set-up and the V70 had surprisingly good fuel economy with this setup--maybe 27 mpg on a combination of IH and backroads.

    But the eurorails are expensive and we don't use them very much. Also I presume that the dealer has to do some drilling, but I'm not sure. If you want to save money, the removable bars should work well. The removable rails attach to ingenious external ceats--2004 model, I presume this is still the system in 2007. I don't think that the Eurorails have a higher load capacity than the removable bars. I think the gross weight limit on the roof is 100 kg (maybe roof strength and balance considerations). The Eurorails are longer and always there.

    I installed a Volvo trailer hitch on this 04 V70, but it was a lot of work to install the Volvo model. I thought the dealer labor cost was too high so I decided to do it myself. It was a bear. An aftermarket hitch with the Volvo wiring harness would probably be the best benefit/cost option. That's what I have in mind with our 2007 XC90. However, if we want we could pull a light aerodynamic sport trailer for long camping trips with our three dogs. I have pulled a heavy, non-aerodynamic utility trailer, and this did significantly reduce the mpg. Thule makes one of about 45 cu ft capacity Thule trailer.
  • gavin_v70gavin_v70 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info and for sharing your experiences - jim314. Anyone else out there?
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    What I would do is look at a Thule system. The Thule feet shouldn't require drilling into the car. I'd even look at craigslist to perhaps find some used systems then all you'd need is the fit kit for the Volvo.

    I bought a Yakima box last week on craigslist for $100 - quite the bargain.
  • First time poster, hoping I can find some sage advice from anyone on here. I have an '01 V70 T5 and Love It! But tonight I accidentally shut a corner of a thick cloth bag in the tailgate. I didn't find that out till I tried to open the back and it wouldn't budge, lock, unlock or otherwise move at all. :confuse: The handle is loose, like it never latched properly. I pulled the bag out, and am not sure where exactly it was caught, but I don't think it was in the latch area, just near it.

    So, now, the tailgate is free of obsticles, when the lock or unlock buttons are pressed, nothing happens at all. Normally there would be a sound and a feel of a mechanism trying to actuate, but I get absolutely nothing. I checked the fuse, thinking it might be that. It was fine. Now I don't know what exactly to try next and I really don't want to go to the dealer.

    Can anyone provide some ideas? Thanks much.

  • camydogcamydog Posts: 64
    I have not experience this with my '01 V70T5 but have with a GM vehicle in the past. I was having intermitent blincker problems and taking the fuse out, inspecting it and replacing it helped for awhile. At some point it did not help anymore and I replaced the fuse with an identical match. No more problems. The blinkers worked well with no further problems.

    The fuse may be weak. You also may want to put a little dielectric grease on the new fuse, just a skim coat, before you put it back in. The grease will help with electrical contact.
  • camydogcamydog Posts: 64
    I need help from one of you under the dash smart people. My '01 V70 T5 has dual zone clim. control dials. They worked fine this winter but now using the A/C only the drivers side will condition the air. The passenger side knob does change the temp from temperate to hot but there is no cool air from the A/C. I have maneuvered the knobs to different temp settings, changed all controls making the air go to defrost, middle, feet and auto with no improvement.

    I suspect since the air conditioner works on the driver side that there is a diverter door stuck somewhere under the dash. Anyone have any advice on where to look or how I can 'shake the door loose'? Also, any airbag hints I need to know before tearing into the pass. side dash?

  • camydog,
    funny, my '01 V70 T5 has the exact same A/C problem that you describe here. I'll be watching to see if there's a helpful post coming our way. Everything else, climate wise, works just fine except the A/C not coming from the passenger's side. I want to have this fixed when the NW finally comes out of "Junuary."

  • revjeannerevjeanne Posts: 4
    I am having a similar problem with an intermittent a/c, runs cold, then hot. Did you find a solution?

  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    These a/c problems require professional service. Modern auto a/c systems have all sorts of sensors and feedbacks.

    Intermittent cooling could be low freon, but an untrained person can add too much freon. Another possible source is the temperature sensor which reads the temp at the expansion valve, but just changing parts without expert knowledge is just "throwing parts at the problem". Take it in for service to a dealer or a good independent a/c shop. It will cost you, but there's no way out of it.
  • I've found the same advice from the dealer on the a/c issues we've been having here.
    They said that a passenger side a/c problem would most likely stem from a faulty temp sensor, or possibly needing a A/C Recharge! So Camydog, it's not likely any of the dampers or doors. Which is good, considering the cost of that issue would be astronomical.
  • Just curious if you or anyone else had attempted the electric wiring? Getting ready to purchase this hitch, but will be wiring it as we have a large motorcycle to tow along with using it for bikes, etc. Is the wiring plug and play or do you have to cut into the lines to wire it? Just curious as I know you need the Volvo OE wiring harness on this thing.

    This will go on a 2005 base V70 wagon. Haven't looked at bike racks as of yet but looked at the 2" hitch due to hauling a trailer with an RT1150 sitting on it.

    Also....angle of the car...would you scrape bottom front if you backed the thing up on ramps? Have ramps and haven't tried yet. Was tire removal necessary to get the bumper off?

    Just wondering if this is one of those "Volvo makes it impossible for the guy to do it at home" deals? We had someone crack the rear passenger side tail light (bottom) and it turns out that the top interlocks with the bottom so you had to tear all that out to replace it (which was not fun).

    Curious as to how ugly this is going to get when I do this. I definitely don't want to drop $450 for the dealer to do it either.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    I installed the Volvo wiring harness and hitch on a 2004 V70 base model. I don't know if the 2005 is the same installation. I bought the hitch and harmess before reading the instructions. IMO if you follow their instructions, it is a professional job. But I did it without following the Volvo instructions after a lot of thinking and then a lot of effort to put the hitch in. The wiring and hitch work fine. Before you think you can do it, see if you can get the installation instructions from the dealer.

    If I had it to do over, I would try to get an aftermarket 2" receiver hitch from one of the big manufacturers, like Hidden Hitch. You could just buy the Volvo harness if you wanted to use that rather than the aftermarket one. The Volvo hitch fits higher and so you'd no significant loss of clearance on a ramp.

    1. Wiring harmess

    For the 2004 V70, the wiring harness simply plugged into an open plug in the spare tire/battery compartment. Contrary to the instructions I did not move or disconnect the battery. I just pushed out the old oval rubber plug in the floor pan and pressed in the new wire and grommet combination.

    However, the type of wiring harness used in 2004 has no circuit breaker. As best I can determine protection from short circuits in the trailer wiring is from fuses in one or more of the several fuse boxes. To make things more confusing I expected to be instructed to add a new fuse that was not present in this base model V70, but there was no such instruction. Yet the thing works! How can this be?! I was not able to figure out which fuses protect from shorts in trailer wiring. I'll have to see what fuse or fuses are blown if and when this happens.

    The wiring harness from Volvo for their newer models may be like the aftermarket arrangement where the power comes directly the battery to the breaker protected controller. Only signals come from V70 wiring to the various light circuits.

    2. Hitch itself

    The bar/receiver for the 2004 was in three main pieces which bolt together, rather than the usual welded single piece hitch!

    For the 2004 V70 the instructions are to totally remove the rear bumper facia so as to gain access to install the hitch behind the facia. To do this you must support the body and remove both rear wheels to drill out the light rivets holding the facia in the back inside of the wheel wells . . . I had no tools or skills to do this, so I did some surgery on the plastic bumper facia which allowed me to insert the three pieces (some force required) separately and assemble them in place behind the bumper facia. If you want more info, email me and I'll give more detail.

    My wife bought a 2007 XC90 and I plan to get an aftermarket hitch and either have it put on or do it myself. I haven't decided on the wiring harness. The procedure for the 2007 Volvo XC90 hitch is even more complicated that for the V70.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Jim's advice is good. I didn't install the wiring harness so I can't comment on that.

    I will say that I could not find any aftermarket 2" receivers - that's why I bought the Volvo part. And I'm glad I did - a "Hidden Hitch" or "U-Haul" product would not have the flush factory appearance I wanted.

    The Volvo hitch hangs about 3" below the bottom of the fascia, so I guess it depends on how steep an incline the ramps are.

    Here are some photos of my installation...



  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    I also was unable to find a 2" receiver hitch aftermarket. I really do think that the procedure followed by "fedlawman" is very much to be preferred.

    If you do it my way you have to cut three holes in the facia in addition to the one over the receiver, but only one is visible standing behind the vehicle. (The purpose of these 3 additional holes to gain access to the two large bolts and nuts which fasten the bar to the brackets which attach to the frame.)

    I cut all of these holes with a 1.5" dia keyhole saw on my electric drill.

    The visible hole is in the rear on the driver side opposite the hole on the passenger side for access to the tow hook. I pressed a 1.5" black plastic plug into the hole and it looks OK. A better idea might be to buy another square plastic plug like the one on the passenger side and cut a square hole. This would allow more room for wrenching. If you use a 1.5" dia hole it has to be in exactly the right spot, which I achieved by multiple measurings.

    The other two holes are in the underside corners to allow wrenching on the bolts. Then I had to cut from the holes to the edge to make the bottom back of the facia flexible enough to work the bar under the facia.
  • Hey all.
    My wife & I are considering the 2008 V-70 Wagon.

    The big question is should we go with Tricotec or Leather?

    I stopped by a dealership yesterday to check out the cars in person and see the difference. From the photos on the website, it is hard to tell. In person, almost as hard to tell. The one T-tec upholstery car I saw, there was a bit of a sheen to the T-tec kind of like leather. Felt pretty comfortable, or I should say, as comfortable as possible for 110 degrees in Phoenix. Also seemed pretty durable and easy to maintain. Not a cloth however.

    What is everyones opinion on this?

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    You must have seen our base V70 :)

    I'm not a fan of the T-Tec in the S40 because it uses a cloth insert that is REALLY hard to clean.
    However, the full T-Tec in the C70 and V70 should be easy to care for and quite durable.
  • camydogcamydog Posts: 64
    Thanks all for your posts. Unfortunately, having the closest dealer two hours away is not a good thing for me. I will have to do more research on the temp. sensor. I spoke with A/C technicians I work with (Airplane mechanics) and since the driver's side blows ice cold they ruled out freon but I may ask them to check the pressure to see where it is. I'll let you all know.

    fedlawman, the hitch looks great. Run into any problems with airbag sensors in the bumper area? What's your best advice to someone wanting to install a 2" receiver themselves?
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    My opinion (admittedly based on dated facts) is that there are no airbag sensors in the back bumper. The front impact airbags do not deploy with rear impacts where the principle direction of force is front to rear.

    There may not even be any crash sensors in the front bumper. The detector and integral computer for frontal impacts is a module bolted to the floor pan in the front row, in some cars under one of the front row seats and in others under the center console. This detects a collision with an onboard accelerometer.

    The side impact torso airbags (front row only) probably have a detector in the front door or in the B-pillar. There is so little side crush distance that extremely rapid deployment is required. The side head impact bags (both rows) may be triggered by the side impact detector or the central detector or both, I don't know.
  • camydogcamydog Posts: 64
    I'm finding more things out about my AC. I had the system evacuated today, vacuum tested for 15 minutes, then recharged...

    The machine shut off at .8 pounds, about twice as much as was taken out but nowhere near the 2.17 pounds required. The driver's side is still cool and the passenger side ambient air temp. The technician didn't know why it didn't take the full charge. Any ideas?
  • jontyreesjontyrees Posts: 160
    Just got back from 2 weeks in England with my wife and 2 boys. We put about 1000 miles on a rented 2008 V70 2.4 D and found it to be a fine ride. It was a base rental model, with full pleather upholstery, which actually turned out to be very comfortable. The whole experience was comfortable in fact - the seats were good, the driving position, the ride. I didn't really care for the "insert key fob, push button" start procedure - it seemed pointless, and I kept leaving the fob in the car, then having to go back and retrieve it. I didn't calculate the mpg, but I only filled up twice
    (the second time just to have enough to comfortably get back to the airport), so it had to be good, Websites list it at 41.5 mixed, which sounds about right, and is excellent for the way it drove. The stereo was really good, with an aux port in the console between the seats. That was a life saver - have you ever listened to UK radio? Endless crappy techno/disco. Anyway, for anyone looking for a good mid-size wagon, I have to say this one was very competent in all areas. For perspective, I just switched from 4 years in a 2004 GTO to a 2008 Taurus Limited (same platform as the Volvo). Does Volvo offer the diesel in the US? They should given the 40+ mpg.
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