Are the racks and boxes sold by Volvo made by Thule?
Is the fit of the Volvo multi-purpose rack same as Thule?
Have you found a significant price difference between getting the equipment from Volvo vs a ski shop? To date I am finding Volvo to have competitive "sale" prices.
Over 26k on our '01 T5, everything is fine, no issues.
Concerning your questions on the Thule Racks and Load bars - most of the roof boxes are made in a single factory (not sure where) and are then branded. I think they are built to specs set out by the branding company. So in effect the Volvo and Thule boxes are made by the same people with a sightly different design.
As far as the load bars are concerned - the Thule set up is a little more versatile. It uses a 415 foot kit and a standard cross bar. I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and a 2002 V70AWD and the Thule kit works on both. I've had 4 bikes on the roof and a combo of 2 bikes and a roof box and verify the Thule racks are very tough (read: sustained high speeds are not a problem). They also seem to have a tougher attaching design (but you have to buy locks).
As far as ski shops vs the dealers - I think the shops are a little more prepared to deal. You can also buy on-line though the Thule web site. Check out the Packasport boxes though. Having had both a Yakima Space Booster and the Packasport I can say without reservation that the Packasport is way better. Tougher, better looking, more aerodynamic (quieter), better locking mechanism - opens and closes itself with hydraulic struts holds more and attaches more easily. They are about double the cost though.
This comment is to answer #477.There is a problem with the'98&'99 VOLVO AWD.The drivetrain to the rear wheels constantly goes bad and the car can't be driven. It has been into the shop 50% of the time over 3 years. There is a law suite for a new or better car but up to now they have not delivered. VOLVO says this problem has been resolved in '01 & '02. Can anyone say that the newer AWD's are OK? Thank you
For those of you who are not using synthetic, what weights oil do you use? Im in CA, in the bay area, and wondering if 5W-30 is too light to use in the spring and summer. On the bottle it says the temperature range is up to 86 degrees, which is cooler than i know it will get here.
But I have seen many other people using this weight oil in CA.
Also, what filters do you recommend and where is a good place to order them online?
I have 2 questions/comments for other XC owners. We have a 2001 with just 4800 miles so far.... 1. Does anyone notice excessive squeaks and rattles? 2. Any recommendations for a product to protect the plastic molding? Thanks.
Sorry if this seems obvious ... but seeing a post above that said their V70 rode like a Buick led me to add this: Make sure you have a *good* quality tire gauge, and check the tire inflation regularly! The specs are on a label inside the gas cap cover.
I have a 2001 V70 2.4T with P6000s. The specs have a wide range of tire inflation - 28 - 38 PSI or so - remarkable to me. When I first got the car, I thought the handling was terrible and it seemed to want to float on the road. Then I discovered the tire pressures were set to the low end of the range. Increasing the pressure to 32-34 lbs made a world of difference in the handling. Some might find the ride a bit harsh, for me it's just fine.
Don't leave it up to the dealer, they seem to routinely set it at low pressure for the soft ride.
Higher pressures will lengthen tire life, enhance handling, and are the *only* way to safely carry the full load capacity of the vehicle. Lower pressures give softer ride and softer handling.
And don't forget the Explorer / Firestone fiasco ... there is a real safety issue, check that tire pressure!
Was planning on switching to Synthetic oil as I tend to put very low miles on vehicles and hope that the synthetic will have a little longer shelf life than standard mineral oils. Any comments? At what mileage should I make the switch? Dealer says 12,000km? Someone else told me that they come with synthetic?
Also the Owner's Manual doesn't address break in at all. I have put about 1300km on mine (delivered with 32km). Mostly on the highway at varying speeds and never over 120kmh (ok 140 to pass but only for about 8 seconds-once). At some point I'd like to "open it up" - was thinking I'd wait until 2000km. Does anybody have any insight on break in, what to do and what happens if an engine is not properly broken in? I expect this car to run for a long time so would like to get this right from the start.
We just got our V70 2.4 T and have 500 mi so far. We live in LA and do a lot of stop and go, so manual says change standard oil every 5000 mi which messes up std service intervals and is costly. Our salesman suggests putting in synthetic after 1000 mi and then going with std service intervals. Also better for turbo, he says, and don't have to idle the car after a hard drive. Any thoughts on this? Also, does anyone know how I can reset service reminder myself? Is there a good place to buy the cabin air filters mail order? Thanks.
In the 2001 T5, the procedure is as follows: 1)Key off 2)Press and hold trip reset button 3)Turn key to position 2 for 10-12 seconds 4)"Service" light will flash 5)Done
I am preparing to pull the trigger on a new T5. My one of a few gripes over the competitors is that Volvo does not offer xenon headlamps for any of their models. However, Edmunds.com states that new for 2002 on the V70 are xenon lights. Can anyone comment? Also, any horror stories or praises would be much appreciated.
The title says it all: where do they stick the spare when you get the 3rd seat option on the V70? Depending on where they put it, the drop in cargo area might be too much of a detriment for me to consider it (if, of course, the wife decides that a V70 is what she wants )
In a 2001 V70, "spacesaver" is supplied w/wo 3rd seat. Zero loss of cargo space with 3rd seat. Choice of 3rd seat option eliminates subwoofer option and a rear cargo-management option. The 3rd seat has a 3-inch foot well and is weight-limited to smaller children.
I have found a couple of leftover V702.4T wagons - new never registered. (they may not have traction, thats why they are still there). I understand that Volvo has a $2500 rebate on them. Does anyone have an idea how much below invoice is fair before the rebate? I know Cars Direct sells new ones (2002)for $700 below, and I have had dealers offer 2002 models at invoice, so I think this should be much lower with the 2003's soon to be here. thanks.
Fshort1 -- I'm curious about the AWD system problems you cite on the '98/'99 V70s. We have a '98 V70 AWD with about 67,000 miles on the clock. While it has not been trouble-free, we have experienced no AWD problems. Do you find these occur when the AWD kicks in, i.e. in low-traction conditions when the front wheels start to slip, or even on dry pavement? With the recent mild winters here in the D.C. area, it has been a long time since our car has been in anything other than FWD mode.
I could use a little guidance on how to disconnect the running (Headlights) lights on my 2002 V70. The owners manual says that the dealer would do it, but so far I haven't needed to visit them for any service at all. I would like to perform this myself, can anyone help?
For more expedient feedback, you may also want to copy/paste your message into one of our Volvo Owner's Club discussions. Volvo Care & Maintenance or Accessories & Modifications might be good place to start.
Also, while you're there, feel free to say hello in our Volvo Owner's - Meet the Members discussion. Good luck. ;-)
Can anyone recommend a good bike rack for the V70? I have Yakima bars, but am leaning towards getting a trunk mount to make it easier for my wife and kids to load. I'm now looking at the Yakima Might Joe. Anyone have any experience with the trunks mounts? Do they damage the car at all?
i also live in central nj. we're considering buying a '02 V70 2.4. sounds like you got a fair. deal. which dealership did you use? for what its worth, i was a little disappointed by the dashboard. Kind of reminded me of a chevy impala. but then, we test drove it after driving the lexus es 300 (round the same price) and the acura TL (less expensive).
I am considering the purchase of a 1999 V70 WAGON with 49,000 miles. It has a manual transmission and a fair price from a local dealer. (It is not certified by Volvo) I have seen in Consumer Reports, letters on this site, and reports that the V70 has some real electrical problems, among other drawbacks.
IS THE PURCHASE OF A V70 WAGON ADVISABLE?
We have a a 240 wagon with 180,000 miles; the V70 will be the replacement
Hello everyone, My wife and I live in Oak Park, Illinois and have decided the V70 is the perfect car for our young family. I understand from the discussions here that reliability is a concern, though less of one for new V70's than for the previous generation. Dealer support seems to make all the difference. Does anyone have any information about dealer support and the service departments at Shepherd Volvo in Oak Park and Volvo of Lisle in Lisle, IL? Also, now that we're near the model-year changeover, does anyone have advice about what kind of deal I should be able to cut for a new '02? What prices have people been getting in the area? Thanks for any information you have.
To lesliefrances- Sorry you have not yet gotten a response here. Here's a direct link to Edmunds' Maintenance Guide where you check for any TSBs (technical service bulletins) and recalls. This may give you an idea of what kind of issues to look out for. Hope this is helpful.
To jmmiller1- Have you checked with Edmunds' New/Used TMV (true market value) Pricing Tools? Also, please note: Edmunds' new vehicle TMV prices do not take into account manufacture-to-consumer incentives or rebates. So you may want to check Edmunds' Incentives & Rebates section to make any necessary adjustments....
For additional feedback, you should try asking your question about dealer service in our Volvo Owner's Club Maintenance & Care discussion. Good luck and please keep us posted on your purchase.
I am unable to respond to your question about Shepherd Volvo or Lisle Volvo, although the Koralus brothers who founded Lisle Volvo had a good reputation some years ago. Don't forget Howard Orloff Jaguar Volvo at Armitage and the Kennedy; I have had a good experience there getting warranty repairs on a 2001 T5. (For what it's worth, there is a Metra station two blocks away at Clybourn Street.) I have not kept up with pricing. Best wishes.
windy, there's a discussion about experiences with Cars Direct going on in the Smart Shopper forums. Just click on my link and you're there.
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MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
My local dealership has 3 "new" 2001 V70 T5s. All of them are very well equipped with sticker prices ranging from $39K to $42K. The dealer is willing to discount each by about $7K. Is there something I don't know about these vehicles or is this as good a deal as it sounds?
Singlethreaded, Yakima Mighty Joe is what we just picked up. It worked well for 3 bikes. No damage. Pretty easy to get set up. Play around with it to get it to sit right. The side straps took a little work to pull correctly. You need to be sure they are not pulling up but as directly from the side. Overall it is very easy to use. There is another rack that is one stage "better". Declined to go up. The Mighty Joe worked fine. Watch your clearance on the bottom after you load the bikes.
I have bought 3 Volvos at Shepherd Volvo in Oak Park since 1995. The service is outstanding, and very convenient, since they are generous with loaners. Prices...well, these are pricey cars, and the service is expensive too. You can probably get a fair deal at Shepherd, but shop around, and consider getting one 2 or 3 years old and letting someone else take the depreciation. They are versatile, fast, and fun to drive. They seem safe, as well. I wrecked 2 of mine (not my fault, really!), with no injuries. Good luck.
A couple of days ago we noticed a 15 inches long crack in the windshield. The crack starts at the left side of the windshield and reaches in front of the drivers view.
Our V70 is only five months old and we went to the dealer. He told us the cause was probably a stone damage and noted that there were a white dot 1 mm in diameter on the crack. He said that the windshields nowadays are not as good as they used to be and that they can crack from a very very small stone. They will not pay for the replacement, instead we will have to use our insurance which will cost us about $400.
I've had some stone damage on my previous cars, and when a stone hits the windshield it makes quite a loud noise. This time we haven't heard anything like that, and if the crack had arose while driving we sure would have noticed since it's right in the drivers view.
When the weather stripping comes off, check to see if the crack starts at one of the screws that holds the windshield in place...If that is the case, fight with the dealer, it was likely installed incorrectly.
I had a similar problem that was the result of a screw being fastened too tightly. The glass cracked and spread like you described.
I have a 2001 2.4Tv70. does anyone know where I can get accessory items for my car i.e. roof rack, upgrade the inside with a nice wood interior. Do I have to do this with the dealer and can I go to someone local for installtion. I live in the Fort Lauderdale, FL area. Does anyone know of any place i can call or go to. I tried calling some places listed in the yellow pages but no one answers the phone on Saturday. I'm also having a problem with my brake pedal making a "whistling" sound when I take my foot off of the brake. This only starts to happen when I've already driven abount 5 miles or more. I've had the car back to the dealer twice and they tell me they can't duplicate the problem. Any suggestions about what the problem is will be very helpful. I'm about to take a road trip with my 4 year old daughter and husband next week and I want to make sure there aren't any problems driving a long distance - we will be driving in the North Carolina Smoky mountains Maggie Valley area.
I too had the problem with my wife's V70 2.4t. The dealer here in So.Calif fixed it and after that a loud ticking noise about a couple months ago. The dealer took care of both problems, I had mine serviced at Rusnak Volvo in Pasadena. Tell them to call them if they have to. Dan
Wow! Only 0.5 sec. lag ? Wish my VERY hi pressure 850 was that quick ! All turbos must lag. Going from say 15,000 to 80,000rpm just can't be done in an instant. Only improvement I've found is the larger cat - back exhaust systems such as offered by IPD ( www.ipdusa.com ) Installed one on my 850 and found dramatic improvement. There IS a noticeable hum at about 45 mph and 60 mph compared to stock. Now ordering 2002 V70 T-5 and will put same system on that. Senilesurfer
We have test driven 3 2002 V70s (2.4, 2.4T, XC) and really liked the cars. We are a bit concerned about the predicted reliability in the Consumer Reports reviews. I have two other Volvos that have been great.
Wow, the new-style V70s rock! I had an opportunity to ride in a new base '02 recently and that is one beautiful-riding car. Not too harsh, not too soft, but very firm and controlled ride. Great power even from the base 168-hp engine. Volvo should sell more of these cars, considering their great entry-level price.
I'm planning to buy a V70 this weekend. The dealer has my color choices in stock in 2.4 and 2.4T. Will I regret not getting the turbo? I plan to keep the car 10 years. The dealer is quoting $6000 off MSRP for either choice.
While I do think the turbo is definitely more fun, if you plan on keeping the car that long I'd advise against it...that's a HUGE out-of warranty repair bill you wouldn't have to worry about.
Well, despite reading all the terrible reviews about the '98 xc I just bought a used one for $16k. It was inspected had all work done by the dealership prior to me taking possession and passed by my mechanic with no problems. It has 80k miles and is in very good condition. My only concern is whether I should purchase a 2 yr/24k warranty for $1,600 or take my chances. I believe it is a bumper to bumper. Anyone here able to offer some advice or call me a moron for purchasing this vehicle. From what I have read I would be very upset by all these minor annoyances in a $35k vehicle, but this is a $16k vehicle now and I can live with minor annoyances. In this day and age cars are damn expensive and I want to pick up a safe, nice car for my wife and daughter. She might drive 8k miles a year and this seemed like a decent buy for her. At $16k I am looking for a well built wagon that is safe and has a reliable drivetrain, engine, and build structure.
"MSRP" refers to the Manufacturer Suggested Retail (not invoice) Price. So it's not likely the 6-7k is an actual manufacturer incentive.
You should plug your zip code into Edmunds' Incentives/Rebates tool to see if they have any incentives listed in your region. For additional feedback, you should also post (copy/paste) your message in our Smart Shopper Rebates and Dealer Incentives discussion. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your purchase. ;-)
I'm appalled that it is very difficult to find a new base V70 that doesn't have all the option packages. In other words, there are no stripper models to be seen on any dealer's lot. I really don't want to pay $35-$37k just to get a basic Volvo wagon. I just want to pay the obligatory $31k, with automatic, and get it over with.
In response to jrosasmc - My local dealer has five 2002 (virtually) base level V70s advertised for just under $29K. Check out "specials" at Burdamymotors.com. I'm told that Volvo is offering a $4K factory incentive on all V70s.
We recently purchased a 1999 V70. Got a certified one so it has the 6 year 100,000 mile extended warranty (almost bumper to bumper, just not cosmetics). That gives us about one year 10,000 miles left on the factory bumper to bumper plus two more years almost bumper to bumper. This is almost a good as most other new car warrantees. As others have said, the quality of the dealer can make the difference. We have about the best with Point West Volvo in Irving, Texas. They immediately replaced the door panels before I even got any of the bubbling that others have had just to take care of it under warranty.
Two things anyone looking for a 3 year or older 70/850 should look for. One is the torque strut motor mount and the other is the rear sway bar. Both were broke on ours and were immediately fixed. I have spoken with several lifetime Volvo owners about his problem and they say it is common.
Just bought a "stripper V70" Friday night at a Chicago dealer, Howard Orloff. They had three and I got my color choice. The only add on's were Premimum Package, and Cold Weather. I had a sticker just above 35K, bought for $7K less than that. A very good experience, and a great car at that price.
Comments
Are the racks and boxes sold by Volvo made by Thule?
Is the fit of the Volvo multi-purpose rack same as Thule?
Have you found a significant price difference between getting the equipment from Volvo vs a ski shop? To date I am finding Volvo to have competitive "sale" prices.
Over 26k on our '01 T5, everything is fine, no issues.
Concerning your questions on the Thule Racks and Load bars - most of the roof boxes are made in a single factory (not sure where) and are then branded. I think they are built to specs set out by the branding company. So in effect the Volvo and Thule boxes are made by the same people with a sightly different design.
As far as the load bars are concerned - the Thule set up is a little more versatile. It uses a 415 foot kit and a standard cross bar. I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and a 2002 V70AWD and the Thule kit works on both. I've had 4 bikes on the roof and a combo of 2 bikes and a roof box and verify the Thule racks are very tough (read: sustained high speeds are not a problem). They also seem to have a tougher attaching design (but you have to buy locks).
As far as ski shops vs the dealers - I think the shops are a little more prepared to deal. You can also buy on-line though the Thule web site. Check out the Packasport boxes though. Having had both a Yakima Space Booster and the Packasport I can say without reservation that the Packasport is way better. Tougher, better looking, more aerodynamic (quieter), better locking mechanism - opens and closes itself with hydraulic struts holds more and attaches more easily. They are about double the cost though.
Thanks
But I have seen many other people using this weight oil in CA.
Also, what filters do you recommend and where is a good place to order them online?
1. Does anyone notice excessive squeaks and rattles?
2. Any recommendations for a product to protect the plastic molding?
Thanks.
I have a 2001 V70 2.4T with P6000s. The specs have a wide range of tire inflation - 28 - 38 PSI or so - remarkable to me. When I first got the car, I thought the handling was terrible and it seemed to want to float on the road. Then I discovered the tire pressures were set to the low end of the range. Increasing the pressure to 32-34 lbs made a world of difference in the handling. Some might find the ride a bit harsh, for me it's just fine.
Don't leave it up to the dealer, they seem to routinely set it at low pressure for the soft ride.
Higher pressures will lengthen tire life, enhance handling, and are the *only* way to safely carry the full load capacity of the vehicle. Lower pressures give softer ride and softer handling.
And don't forget the Explorer / Firestone fiasco ... there is a real safety issue, check that tire pressure!
Also the Owner's Manual doesn't address break in at all. I have put about 1300km on mine (delivered with 32km). Mostly on the highway at varying speeds and never over 120kmh (ok 140 to pass but only for about 8 seconds-once). At some point I'd like to "open it up" - was thinking I'd wait until 2000km. Does anybody have any insight on break in, what to do and what happens if an engine is not properly broken in? I expect this car to run for a long time so would like to get this right from the start.
In the 2001 T5, the procedure is as follows:
1)Key off
2)Press and hold trip reset button
3)Turn key to position 2 for 10-12 seconds
4)"Service" light will flash
5)Done
Can anyone comment?
Also, any horror stories or praises would be much appreciated.
The title says it all: where do they stick the spare when you get the 3rd seat option on the V70? Depending on where they put it, the drop in cargo area might be too much of a detriment for me to consider it (if, of course, the wife decides that a V70 is what she wants
Greg
Also, while you're there, feel free to say hello in our Volvo Owner's - Meet the Members discussion. Good luck. ;-)
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
i also live in central nj. we're considering buying a '02 V70 2.4. sounds like you got a fair. deal. which dealership did you use? for what its worth, i was a little disappointed by the dashboard. Kind of reminded me of a chevy impala. but then, we test drove it after driving the lexus es 300 (round the same price) and the acura TL (less expensive).
IS THE PURCHASE OF A V70 WAGON ADVISABLE?
We have a a 240 wagon with 180,000 miles; the V70 will be the replacement
ANY ADVICE?
My wife and I live in Oak Park, Illinois and have decided the V70 is the perfect car for our young family. I understand from the discussions here that reliability is a concern, though less of one for new V70's than for the previous generation. Dealer support seems to make all the difference. Does anyone have any information about dealer support and the service departments at Shepherd Volvo in Oak Park and Volvo of Lisle in Lisle, IL? Also, now that we're near the model-year changeover, does anyone have advice about what kind of deal I should be able to cut for a new '02? What prices have people been getting in the area? Thanks for any information you have.
To jmmiller1- Have you checked with Edmunds' New/Used TMV (true market value) Pricing Tools? Also, please note: Edmunds' new vehicle TMV prices do not take into account manufacture-to-consumer incentives or rebates. So you may want to check Edmunds' Incentives & Rebates section to make any necessary adjustments....
For additional feedback, you should try asking your question about dealer service in our Volvo Owner's Club Maintenance & Care discussion. Good luck and please keep us posted on your purchase.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
kirstie_h
Roving Host
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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Review your vehicle
Yakima Mighty Joe is what we just picked up. It worked well for 3 bikes. No damage. Pretty easy to get set up. Play around with it to get it to sit right. The side straps took a little work to pull correctly. You need to be sure they are not pulling up but as directly from the side. Overall it is very easy to use. There is another rack that is one stage "better". Declined to go up. The Mighty Joe worked fine. Watch your clearance on the bottom after you load the bikes.
Our V70 is only five months old and we went to the dealer. He told us the cause was probably a stone damage and noted that there were a white dot 1 mm in diameter on the crack. He said that the windshields nowadays are not as good as they used to be and that they can crack from a very very small stone. They will not pay for the replacement, instead we will have to use our insurance which will cost us about $400.
I've had some stone damage on my previous cars, and when a stone hits the windshield it makes quite a loud noise. This time we haven't heard anything like that, and if the crack had arose while driving we sure would have noticed since it's right in the drivers view.
Has anyone experienced a similar situation?
When the weather stripping comes off, check to see if the crack starts at one of the screws that holds the windshield in place...If that is the case, fight with the dealer, it was likely installed incorrectly.
I had a similar problem that was the result of a screw being fastened too tightly. The glass cracked and spread like you described.
Good luck
Dan
Wow! Only 0.5 sec. lag ? Wish my VERY hi pressure 850 was that quick ! All turbos must lag. Going from say 15,000 to 80,000rpm just can't be done in an instant.
Only improvement I've found is the larger cat - back exhaust systems such as offered by IPD ( www.ipdusa.com ) Installed one on my 850 and found dramatic improvement. There IS a noticeable hum at about 45 mph and 60 mph compared to stock.
Now ordering 2002 V70 T-5 and will put same system on that.
Senilesurfer
If you have a V70, what has your experience been?
Thanks!
Also, has anyone heard what the differences will be on the 2003's?
Thanks!
Can't think of any new car where 3 people will fit comfortably. Maybe a Crown Vic.
You should plug your zip code into Edmunds' Incentives/Rebates tool to see if they have any incentives listed in your region. For additional feedback, you should also post (copy/paste) your message in our Smart Shopper Rebates and Dealer Incentives discussion. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your purchase. ;-)
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Two things anyone looking for a 3 year or older 70/850 should look for. One is the torque strut motor mount and the other is the rear sway bar. Both were broke on ours and were immediately fixed. I have spoken with several lifetime Volvo owners about his problem and they say it is common.