Subaru Legacy/Outback

c_hunter · November 2001

See posts 3321, 3324, 3346, and 3351. Sounds like Subaru needs to fix a typo in the printed brochure and online specs regarding the body color mirrors and door handles on the base Outback!!

Craig

pattim3 · November 2001

I'll pass it on. Because the brochures need to be produced early, we sometimes see things like this. I appreciate all of you pointing this out.

Patti

snacks78 · November 2001

Has anyone had any problems or know of any fixes for the dash lights, that keep on blowing the fuse. I put in a new fuse and right as I start the car it blows the fuse. Any suggestions?

ateixeira · November 2001

You probably have a short some where. I'd let a dealer look at it.

Cris: I've driven my 5 speed Forester on the sand lots, and it does very well. The key is to keep your momentum and drive smoothly. I didn't exactly go dune-hopping, but if you just want to do a little surf fishing it should be OK. The flounder were biting at the OBX a few months ago! :-)

Steve: the hitch ball height on my OE trailer hitch seemed to mate perfectly with the 5'x8' trailer I borrowed from a friend (Bob, coincidentally). I have a photo here. Maybe the trailers don't have a standard height, and I got lucky?

Allen: hmm, did you check your fuses? Maybe the lights go to high when the low beam fuse it burned out. I'd also check the bulbs.

Annie: the lemon guy was right, there were $750 incentives, though it was regional, so your dealer could have been right, too. I suggest you buy from a place that does have the incentive, obviously. 2002 models have not had any yet, as far as I know.

-juice

mcnal01 · November 2001

The fuses are all OK, it might be a relay but I'm not sure how to check them.

ateixeira · November 2001

I'd let a dealer look at it, I guess. I wouldn't have the right skills or tools to do it myself.

-juice

judetahoe · November 2001

We purchased our 1997 Subaru OB in April of this year. We drove from Tahoe to San Diego and back last month and all of a sudden the battery light and brake light flickered on and off together. Then they came on and stayed for about 50 miles then went out for the remainder of the trip. Since then it has been coming on and going off daily. Giving it a little acceleration seems to make it go back off. Now the ABS light is flickering on and off with the other two warning lights. We took it to our mechanic and he can't find a thing wrong. It runs and purrs like a kitten with no problems but the lights seem to be a warning of something to come. Help! Any thoughts are appreciated

kmclean · November 2001

Bud -

Sorry for the delay - four days without the Internet - refreshing in a way!

The gasket on my replaced windshield looked absolutely normal right from the start. In fact, except for the missing crack (from the old windshield), I wouldn't have been able to tell it had been replaced - and I looked VERY carefully (in view of previous experience with other windshield replacements). The most I've ever encountered is a bit of excess sealant that could be peeled off a few days after installation.

Good luck - and get a good job - you'll be looking at it for a long time (hopefully).

Ken from Seattle

c_hunter · November 2001

I finally got the windshield in my 2000 OB replaced today, courtesy of the local trucking firm that cracked it with loose gravel on the highway. The replacement is the OEM "Carlex" part, and looks really good. They re-used the original trim, and put everything back in place perfectly (including all my windshield stickers).

One problem I encountered, which I also remember reading about here on Edmunds many months ago: the first windshield they tried to put in (before I said whoa) had a dark tint band along the top. It was also a Carlex windshield and otherwise identical to the OEM unit. I knew this band would interfere with my line of sight based on my seating position and the layout of the OB. To give you an idea, the tint band actually came down to the rearview mirror mount point, which is way too low for me. The glass shop re-ordered a windshield without the tint band, and everything worked out well. Ended up being a $450 repair.

Paint: while touching up some chips on my bumper, I noticed an egg sized patch on the hood where the paint is beginning to flake off. Not good! I take pretty good care of my OB, washing it regularly and waxing it at least once a year (usually twice). I am assuming this must have been some defect in the paint job that is only now beginning to show. I'm not sure what I should do -- the area is too large for touchup paint, yet too small to justify having the hood repainted (especially since no paint job is as good as a factory job). Anybody know Subaru's policy and/or warranty position on this sort of thing? I have had the car for 1.5 years, and it has 23000 miles. This is way too early for paint problems!

Craig

bud_ody · November 2001

Thanks again Ken !
-Bud

dervish · November 2001

Lot of snow yesterday afternoon. Our 2001 OB was just unstoppable. It handled superbly! We're going to spending a lot of time up here this winter.

Has anyone noticed the problem with the defrosting system? Our OB equipped with Winter package and the system dindn't perform as expected. We noticed a lot of ice built up at the bottom of the windshield and the wipers were going OVER it.

Also, the inside of the car was fogged up quite a bit even with the heater, defroster were going full blast. I tried to turn on the air conditioning but it didn't seem to help much, if any.

ateixeira · November 2001

Don't you have to have the heated seats on for the mirrors and windshield heating elements to kick in? If so, did you?

Jude: the symptoms would have me checking belt tension and the belts themselves. Could be the alternator belt is slipping and not charging the battery properly?

At that age, I'd go ahead and change all the belts and hoses anyway. I would also do the timing belt if you are over 50k, just as a preventative measure.

-juice

fibber2 · November 2001

Thanks Bob/Craig/Steve/Paisan/Goosegog/Johnmei for all the replies and comment. I read the 100 or so posts on the SUV towing board also. Some interesting info. An update as the plot thickens....

I brought my 'stubby top' draw bar in to my Suby dealer on Friday to see if there was possibly an updated part that would be reversible. No such luck. The parts guy and another customer both commented on the poor OEM design, and suggested U-haul or the local WalMart (which stocks Reese hitch parts). I ended up with Reese P/N 06280 - basically identical to Subaru P/N L1010FS030 but with a longer tab that allows for installation with a 0.75" rise or 1.25" drop. It is also V-5 spec, but with an overkill Class-2 rating. Installed in the hitch receiver in the drop position the trailer now sits close to level.

Then the real fun began. Picked up the trailer, hooked it up and found that the running lights would not shut off, even with the car lights off and ignition off. Volt meter shows the output from the Subaru interface module (P/N L1010FS020) brown wire is on all the time

Went back to the dealer yesterday morning. He looked it up in the newest book, then began to shake his head. Seems we have a bigger problem.... I had ordered Subaru hitch kit P/N L1010LS100, but that was not what they sold me. They gave me P/N L1010LS000. I balked, but they assured me that there were no changes. Maybe just from another supplier. I even called 800-SUBARU3 and was told it was OK. A few weeks later the story is different. A safety advisory states not to install -000 rev kit on '02 vehicles. No explanations, just remove and replace with -100 rev. Will it fix any of the problems I am having? Who knows....

He tells me to R&R it, I ask him to do it. Hey, I ordered the correct part - they screwed up. He saw my point, and agreed, so the unit is on order, and they will do the labor this time. That at least helped me feel better about the whole fiasco, but I lost the weekend dealing with problems when I needed the trailer to help my parents move furniture. So it goes....

Steve

paisan · November 2001

i've driven w/o trailer lights on many occassions, not the safest thing but doable.

-mike

lark6 · November 2001

juice: I can't speak for the OB, but I know that in my Forester the seat heaters are controlled by buttons in the console, while a button on the dash controls the windshield and side mirror heating elements.

Ed

rsholland · November 2001

the rear window defroster switch controls the outside heated mirrors. I think(?) the Outback has a separate switch in the power mirror switch cluster. The heated windshield has a separate switch on the dash. On the Forester, it's located down to the left of the steering column, by the fog lamps and cruise master switch.

Also, the rear window defroster-heated mirrors are on a timer. You have to reactivate that switch every 15 minutes or so. That may also be true of the front deicer?

Bob

ateixeira · November 2001

Glad to hear the dealer is taking the hit on the R&R labor.

I do recall the hitch recall, or stop order, or something like that. Last year?

-juice

fibber2 · November 2001

Juice: I saw a wide variety of heights in class 1 utility trailers. Flat bed stake body types tend to be high. The "Haul'in" unit sold by Home Depot is a good 18" high, so it probably mates with the OEM hitch perfectly. Many of the trailers sold to landscapers, with 3 ft drop gates for driving the lawn tractor up are very low. I bought a "Carry-On" brand from Lowes Homecenter for $535, 5' x 8' with gate, weighs 350 lbs empty, 2000 GVW. The coupler is about 13" high when level & still rides a bit high in the front with the new draw bar in the drop-down position. Similar design trailers from Snowbear, Cross-Country and Mid-Atlantic all need very low hitch points to work properly.

Dervish: Your A/C has a thermal cutoff switch set for about 42' F to protect the compressor from the possibility of liquid freon making it from the expansion valve to the compressor without evaporation. So in snow country, you will not be able to run the A/C for dehumidification.

Craig: If I remember correctly, the base OB has an evenly light tinted windshield. The upper models add the dark tint band for a few inches at the top. Sounds like they ordered the wrong glass.

Steve

hammersley · November 2001

Also, make sure the "recirc" switch isn't activated. If it is, you'll get no fresh air into the car to carry off all the humidity that condenses on the windows.

Cheers!
Paul

ateixeira · November 2001

Too bad there isn't a standard receiver height, Steve.

-juice

kmclean · November 2001

Dervish -

The button for the windshield de-icers is on the left side of the dash - down by the cruise on/off, the fog lamps, etc. As I recall, it's the closest switch to the steering column in that cluster. The outside mirror defrosters have a switch on the driver's door near the mirror position controls. The defrost mode you want (on the HVAC) is fully right (clockwise) where the symbol shows ONLY the defroster (not the one next to it that shows the defroster and heater). It's this defrost-only position that engages the compressor for more effective dehumidification (and hence better defrosting). Forget the A/C button - and Paul's point about the "recirc" setting is absolutely correct.

I had my 2K O/B down at Mt Bachelor last winter for a ski week, and was very impressed with its defrosting/de-icing capabilities. There are a lot of one-function switches to push (to include the one for the rear window, too), but they all worked well once activated.

Ken in Seattle

judetahoe · November 2001

Juice: Thanks for response, we did check the belts and seem fine, but maybe they are slipping. I just read about a recall on the alternator for the '97 so next step I guess is to call Subaru's 800 and see what they say. Love the way the car handles but would hate to just stall out. It would be easier to track down a problem if just one warning light came on instead of 3. The other thing is how they go off when I gun the engine. Maybe it gives it more charge power when I do that? Jude

dervish · November 2001

Paul -

Maybe I DID leave the "RECIRC" switch on.

Steve -

"Your A/C has a thermal cutoff switch set for about 42' F to protect the ..." Wow! Are you an engineer?

Ken -

I DO know the functions as well as the locations of those switches. I will try your recommended defrosting mode next time. Well, how about this weekend?

You guys are great!

Cheers!

pattim3 · November 2001

Who is your dealer? Even if they couldn't figure out what the problem is, we do have tech. assistance for them. Call us and we can check for the alternator service program for your Subaru. Sorry for the problem, but I'm sure we can help.

Patti

ateixeira · November 2001

Jude: your car is almost behaving like some folks with an underdrive pulley, i.e. the lights dim at idle. That's what makes me think the belt may be slipping.

Call 800-SUBARU3 to open up a case, they're helpful.

-juice

toca · November 2001

with the dial in full defrost mode, I didn't think you had a choice between "recirc" and "fresh"? I recall attempting to change modes once, but didn't let me. Don't remember which one though....

scubadvr · November 2001

This is a cross post, but due to not receiving any replies the first time around, I figured I would try my luck on the board.

I apologize for bringing this topic back up, but I've spent a significant amount of time looking through previous posts, on multiple boards, and each time I give up a little bit easier. So, until the search function turns up the posts I am looking for, I have a question that has been asked before.

I'm bringing my 2001 Outback in for an oil change. I asked the dealer what he could do to fix the early morning squeaking when backing out of the garage, and I was not offered the solution presented here. I mentioned that I recalled hearing of a shim kit that Subaru offered under warranty, but the person I was speaking with said he had heard nothing of this, and their fix was tightening 'something'. Is there a memo or any paperwork or part number that Subaru has for this problem/fix? Is there some way that I can steer this guy so that he can tell me if the shim kit is for me or not? Basically, how can he be informed (what should I tell him), if he is not already?

Thanks all...
Colin

ateixeira · November 2001

I thought it was for the newer H6 models, but I could be wrong. Anyone have more specific info?

Try what the dealer suggests, it can't hurt. If it still squeals, then someone may offer more info by then.

-juice

subearu · November 2001

I had this shortly after taking ownership in Aug '00. (back then this shim kit wasn't an option)

Mentioned it to the dealer at the first oil change and they did some sort of 'cleaning' to the pads, like removing the glazing from them or something. (knock on wood) haven't had the squeal since then, and it's been over a year now.

I'd try what the dealer suggests, at least they're not giving you the 'can not duplicate problem' answer. If all else fails, you can put a call into the Subaru 800 number.

-Brian

ateixeira · November 2001

They can indeed "scuff" the pads to remove any glazing, if you have that.

Someone said you could hit the brakes while reversing to do this, too.

-juice

bkaiser1 · November 2001

I am having the brake shims put on my 01 Outback wagon (4cyl) next week to silence the embarrassing squeal that has persisted for the past 19,000 miles. My parts department immediately knew what I was talking about when I inquired about it last month and said the parts should solve the problem...at the time, though, no one had requested to have the shims installed so he wasn't for sure if in fact the shims helped. The part number is 26298AE020 according to Lithia Subaru's computer here in Reno. Good luck...

crawdadking · November 2001

I had the shims installed on 01 LLB about three weeks ago. At first I didn't hear a peep. About a week later I heard a very faint sqeal and it keep getting louder. Now the noise is maybe 75% of what it was before and getting louder all the time. The dealer turned the rotors against my wishes and I'm not going to do that again. Squeaky brakes are better than worn out brakes. Oh well maybe others will have better luck than I did.
Except for this I love this car. Virtually no complaints worth mentioning.

Guy

ateixeira · November 2001

Don't you love information sharing? We know about it before some dealers (who may not have seen the problem yet) do.

Guy: is yours all the time, or only first thing in the AM?

-juice

beachfish · November 2001

The guy in the office next to mine bought a 4-cylinder Outback wagon last month from the salesman who sold me my Forester.

He had the a.m. back-up squeal from day one and the shim kit fixed it.

John

eric102 · November 2001

Hello all, this is my first post. I'm a long time Honda owner, soon to be Subaru owner. I've been reading this board for several months and it's helped me a great deal in chosing an 02 Outback wagon as my next vehicle. I chose a base Outback over a mid-level CRV, the Outback is a much better value and close, if not equal in quality. For those that live in the Seattle area, do you think invoice plus tax and tabs, (no other junk fees) is a decent deal at this time of the year?
Eric

crawdadking · November 2001

Brakes only squeal backing out of garage in the AM, usually never hear it again during the day.

BTW: My son (Honda civic owner) is about to buy a Forrester. I attribute this to him being impressed when driving my Outback. I think he would actually rather have the Outback but his wife likes the Forrester. You know how it goes, you do the best you can. I'll keep you all posted on when he makes the leap.

Guy

pattim3 · November 2001

It could be that the service advisor is not aware but the technician knows. Ask to speak to the Service Manager or call us and we can call the dealer and bring them up to date.

Thanks!

Patti

ateixeira · November 2001

Guy: that's a bit annoying, but it won't do any harm in the long term. It's probably just the surface oxidation rubbing off.

Congrats, Eric. Did you choose auto or 5 speed? What color? Also, did you spring for the all weather package?

My dad has a 2001 and has been quite happy with it so far. He had been buying Fords and Toyotas up until this one.

-juice

fibber2 · November 2001

Sorry to have to admit it, but yes, an electrical engineer (and a car nut).... What a combination!

Steve

fibber2 · November 2001

Only when backing out of the garage. Never hear again after that. I consider it a neat feature for scaring away cats, rabbits, squirrels, deer, etc that might be in my path. I live out in the woods, so nailing a critter in the early morning is a real possibility.... ;-)

Steve

bill_1 · November 2001

Ok, I am considering getting a Subaru Wagon (either the Legacy GT, the Impreza Outback or the WRX) but I notice they now have Daytime Running Lights. Now a big part of the reason I want a wagon is that I am an Amateur Astronomer and a Wagon would be very convenient for hauling Telescopes and other Miscellaneous Equipment to an observing site. The catch 22 is that I usually observe with others, so when I am entering and leaving the site it is just considered good manners not to use your headlights until you clear the observing area (parking lights are ok). In my current car (VW Jetta) I can defeat the DRLs by using the handbreak, but I can't then use the parking lights (I have to use the 4 ways). I guess my question is, on the Subaru, is there a way to easily defeat the DRLs and if so does it allow you to use the parking lights?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

paisan · November 2001

The hand brake IIRC will disengage the DRLs, not sure if it will put it into parking light mode or not. All cars for 2002MY IIRC are required to have DRLs so it's gonna be hard to find one w/o em. But I'm sure that an afternoon with the wiring diagram and you can defeat the DRLS, I know they have done it on the WRXs.

-mike

tidester · November 2001

Welcome to the boards, eric! We look forward to hearing a lot more from you!

tidester
Host
SUVs

20llbean · November 2001

My llbean squeals in the AM and after the car has been park for a long period. On my two maintenance service at my dealership, they have not heard of the problem.
Patty, is it possible for SoA to contact dealerships? My dealership is Concordville Subaru/Nissan in Concordville , PA.

ironsides1 · November 2001

Decided to participate after reading a number of these boards for the past year. Been a Subaru owner for the past 11 years ('90 Legacy LS wagon, two '92 wagons, a couple of '80s GL wagons & '00 Outback base 5 speed). We still have the two '92 and the Outback. Family loves the safety features and the space. Many of the issues discussed on the older models I've experienced. Reading the discussions over the past year helped to decide to go to the 5sp on the Outback. Tried a Pathfinder for 6 mos. last year after selling the '90 LS to compliment the remaining 2 Subarus but sold it to return back to being a 3 Subaru family. Been fortunate to buy all the vehicles used with low km. With Canadian winters, the AWD has been great. I change to winter tires to increase safety. Thanks for sharing and hope to contribute.

ateixeira · November 2001

Welcome to the thread and hope you stick around, I'm sure we can all benefit from your extensive experience with Subies.

-juice

judetahoe · November 2001

Patti, Thank you for the reply, we don't have a dealer because we bought it used back in March of this year. Remember it is a 97 sub. We have a file started for us checking on the alternator recall for this year. Hopefully that's not the problem.
Juice, I have been looking at the Chilton Manual and think it just may be the belts. Today it was very snowy and roads were rough, poof there was all the lights starting their blinking again so I gave it a little gunning and they went off. A few more bumps and they came back on. Same scenario. Question? Are the belts something we can change or should we have a pro do it? Easy or Difficult?

ateixeira · November 2001

I have not yet done this myself, but it's probably not too hard. The engine bay is a little crowded, so I'd expect a few bloody knuckles, and a day's work.

-juice

ironsides1 · November 2001

We're fortunate to have a great service dept. eventhough there's only one dealer in town. Juice, your experience as well as others, servicing your vehicles, helps me to discuss and understand various issues that have developed. Subaru Canada did stand behind their product (with help from the dealer and persistence letter writing to the President) when my '90LS developed premature piston slap @ 100,000km after years of documented dealer maintenance. They installed a new short block. That's one of the reasons we stayed with the Subaru product. I also changed to standard struts from the air system on the '92LS, rather than have to worry about it blowing out as it did on my '90LS.

ateixeira · November 2001

Believe me, I benefit a ton from the advice of other people here. Many of the things I did on my Subie were after getting tips from folks here, which I greatly appreciate. I also like to return the favor, and try to get photos because I know how much those help me!

Yep, those air bladders are pricey. paisan converted his XT6 to struts as well.

-juice

Subaru Legacy/Outback

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