Just an FYI, they really don't do anything for you. All you need is a sledge and a 19mm socket, 2 whacks with the hammer and the socket is jammed onto the wheel lock and you can take it off. Most subie wheels aren't that coveted so I'd skip on em altogether.
I'm about to order the Hella MicroDE fogs. Again, what I am trying to do is get a little more light while drive 2 lane and watching for deer. I've gotten mixed feedback and would like one more round of opinions... fogs or driving? Doug makes a good case for fog so that's where I am at right now... a wider angle of light and use them with both highs and lows. Makes sense?
I'd go with driving and just aim them out toward the edges. Fogs will not shine far enough ahead of you @ speed to adequetly fore-warn you of deer etc. Just my opinion though.
Although my experience is limited to the factory fogs on my Forester, I'm going to say go with driving lights. The reason is the same as mike -- the fogs won't illuminate far up enough to warn you of upcoming deer. I don't know what the range is of the MicroDE, but I couldn't imagine it being more than 30ft out in front of your vehicle. If I were to be driving down a dark mountain road at 40mph I'm not sure 30ft is going to give me enough time to react.
I'm sure you can get the driving lights to stay on with your highs and lows depending on how it's wired.
We are in the middle of packing to move and ran out of boxes. My wife contacted a friend who sells Avon and had a bunch of boxes. She put out 32 boxes (not collapsed) and darned if my wife didn't fit every one in the back of our outback. She walked in the door after getting back saying how much she loved her car.
My wife came back from Kmart after buying 8 lawn chairs - they all fit inside her Legacy wagon. She said she wouldn't even have considered trying that in her old sedan.
The credit card bill just came in - um, maybe that's not a good thing! LOL
Here's the OCD take on wheel locks: I have an '01 Forester that has the Subaru (made by McGard) locks. When we got our '02 Outback, I wanted a set for that vehicle as well. Since they take the same locks as the Forester, I ordered a set directly from McGard with the same key code as the ones on my Forester. Now, the locks on either vehicle can be operated with the same key. It makes for one less variable in the tool box.
I know that the wheel locks don't provide high security, but they can deter a less-determined thief. Of course, door locks don't provide much security either (you wouldn't even need Mike's 19mm socket, just his sledge, and ONE good whack, and you're through the glass and can reach inside and unlock the door...no keys needed!).
Yeah, my wife too. She has the remote keyless locking device on her OB and she still doesn't lock it most of the time. Anyway, at least they won't be stealing her wheels!
Hi! I've been lurking occasionally since we purchased our 2002 Outback LTD wagon (regatta red) last October.. We love it! My question is does anyone know if can I use the "subaru bucks" earned from the Chase Subaru credit card to purchase the Subaru Added Security extended warranty?
Sorry for the major spam attack, but this one kinda sounds like fun...
A contact of ours is looking for a group of luxury SUV enthusiasts who would be willing to come to Irvine, CA August 24th from 9am to 3pm for a test drive, focus group and lunch. Participants will be compensated for their time. If you are interested in participating in this event, please send an email with your contact information as well as the model vehicle you drive to: chotti@earthlink.net. Thanks for your consideration!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I check my engine oil level on my 2-weeks old Bean, and notice that the oil level is 1/2 inch higher than the full indicator which is a 2nd hole counting from the bottom of the dip stick. I think too much oil is not for the engine. Should I drain it and refill it to the proper level? My car has 600 miles on it now.
After reading the owner's manual, I realize that the engine oil level is high because of the thermal expansion. I measured it 1 1/2 hrs after parking the car on the level ground. I will check it again with the car parked on the level ground at early in the morning to see whether oil level recede to F mark.
If you have some holes showing around the hole, consider purchasing a molding that will cover the edge and the holes. They sell a door edge molding that's flexible at most auto parts stores, but other types of moldings might be available in your area.
Paisan - yes, I'm trying to mount a set of 4000 fogs on my Legacy that I removed from the Montero. Not much metal up there, but I'm working on a way to make it happen.
It sounds like the dealer was quoting you a price for an automatic, which would account for the $800 price difference. I think it is really only $720, though. And then she is not including the $500 cash back.
Have 130w Hella bulbs in there with the Euro-beam pattern (cross between driving and pencil) and 5w city lights. Love em on the Trooper. If you get em on the Leggy you HAVE to take some pics!
I have 3000 fogs on my Cruiser, but originally I had one fog and one driving beam. Experimented with a 130w in the driving beam but found even at 55w these full size lamps are too much for road use except on the most deserted late night runs. So switched to a pair of fogs, though I've been too lazy to rewire them from the original setup with a switch for each lamp on the dash. Ran PIAA 85w Ion Crystals in them for a while, but they burned out kinda fast and when I switched back to white I found I really like them better.
Spent some time looking at the Legacy again today for light fitment. It's going to be a tough mount due to the lack of metal issue. The 4000s jiggled a bit on the Montero even with custom mounts of welded 1/4 inch steel bolted to steel. I had to use the upper rally mounts which made them absolutely solid no matter the terrain. On the Subaru I'll have neither steel to bolt the mounts I'm thinking of onto, nor a way to place an upper support. So this could be tough. I have an idea to use the upper license plate bolts as a secondary attaching point that would reduce movement, but that's going to make fabricating the mounts an extremely precise affair as I'll have to also line up mount holes on the plastic inner bumper (usually called the impact bar) under the painted fascia.
I am starting to have doubts about the entire project as the lights are so large that I'll be looking at the upper half of the lights from the driver's seat. This will also screw up airflow to the windshield and I'm a RainX fan. It will make them vulnerable to being crunched in a parking lot as they'll be the farthest forward part on the car. Finally, the cost of having the mounts made will be nearly the price of a set of Hella 500s which would be a piece of cake to mount and they're a pretty good lamp.
But, I may find a way to get them on there despite the other issues. Hmmm....
All of this talk about driving/fog lights has me giving thought to replacing the anemic fogs in my 2000 OB. I know alot of you are going the route of either switching bulbs in the headlights or mounting an additional set of lights in the grill. I'm possibly thinking of replacing the existing fogs with driving lights. I have the same concern as Bit in terms of driving at night and spotting deer. Any thoughts on lights that would be the same size and mount in the same location as the existing fogs on a 2000 OB? Thanks, Ron
Subie dealer to check for new brochures on the '03 Outback and WRX; they're still not in yet.
While there I saw a new '03 LL Bean wagon in the monotone Titanium Pearl. All I can say is WOW! It looks great. For those longing for monotone Outbacks, your wish is has arrived.
I also saw a base '03 Outback in silver! It also looked very good. Haven't seen the new yellow WRXs yet, at least not in person.
We just picked up our new 03 base OB 5 spd and love it so far. A couple of questions: We had hoped to install a trailer hitch and use a hitch mount bike rack for 2 kids and 2 adult bikes at the same time. I looked at the Yakima site and it lists only the ROC4 mount for the 1 1/4" mount. Unfortunately they say you can only carry 3 bikes with the smaller mount. Is there a 2" trailer hitch available? I'm hoping to avoid adding the "Q" towers and round bars if possible so any alternative ideas 2 carry 4 bikes would be appreciated (2 adult bikes have quick release hubs and 2 kids bikes don't).
Our car came with the factory stereo and while it sounds good, I'd like to upgrade it by installing the tweeter kit, speaker upgrade and possibly the amp/subwoofer. Does anyone have any experience adding these to their system? And if so was the install easy and does it make a noticable difference? When I see pictures of the speaker upgrade kit it looks like it comes with 2 different sized speaker sets. I thought the front and rear speakers were the same size.
Congrats on the new car - I'm sure it will serve you well, as mine has over the last 2 years.
As an hitch alternative , install a 1.25" receiver trailer hitch, then use a 1.25"-to-2" adapter to step up to a 2" bike rack. The weight limitation is probably due to the smaller tube diameter of the 1.25" bike rack.
As your moniker suggests, are you from Breckinridge, CO and did you buy your car at the dealer in Silverthorne? Am thinking of sending my parents there (um, to buy a car, not to sell my parents).
Just completed a week's loop from Seattle to Sandpoint, Idaho, Banff and Jasper, Alberta, and back to Seattle via Kamloops, BC.
Car performed flawlessly (now 2-1/2 years old with 25K miles) - got 31 mpg on the 2-lane mountain portions of the trip (about 800 miles or so); 60 +/- mph in those sections (2K OB Ltd wagon w/5-spd - clean configuration, 3 SOBs and luggage).
Surprised NOT to see many OBs in a region I thought would be crawling with them (as Seattle is) - strangely, saw more Pontiac Azteks (sp?) in Banff and Jasper in a few days than I've ever seen in Seattle - looked like local vehicles. Go figure. Gas (regular) in Canada ran in the $1.60s to $1.80s per US gallon (US dollars, too), in case you're thinking of going. Great scenery, very friendly folks - food and drink quite reasonable - only lodging a bit pricey (but not a lot of competition in Banff & Jasper). Lots of opportunity for backwoods driving if you're so inclined. Watch out for the bears!
I'm hoping someone out there can help with a problem I'm having with my 2001 GT wagon. Here's the short story: Noticed tread on rear tire was wearing on the inside edge. 48k miles on the car so I figured I'd just replace all 4 tires in the fall. One week later I started hearing thumping when turning in or out of my driveway (i.e.- driving very slowly with the steering wheel turned very sharp). Figured it was due to uneven wear on the tires, so I had a 4 wheel alignment done and 4 new Dunlop A2 Sport SP tires installed. First day with new tires, no problem. Next day, started thumping again. It appears if I let car sit a couple days, the thumping goes away when first driven, but as warms up, thumping comes back. I don't hear/feel the thumping if going straight. Has anyone else had a similar experience. Your input is greatly appreciated.
I'm hoping someone out there can help with a problem I'm having with my 2001 GT wagon. Here's the short story: Noticed tread on rear tire was wearing on the inside edge. > Which side? Both? Have the tires ever been rotated?
48k miles on the car so I figured I'd just replace all 4 tires in the fall. One week later I started hearing thumping when turning in or out of my driveway (i.e.- driving very slowly with the steering wheel turned very sharp). >Which direction - both? Where does the thumping seem to be coming from. Can you feel it in the steering wheel at all?
>The only running gear changes that occur from driving straight to turning sharp are:
-The front axle CV joints run at a sharp angle. -The front and rear differentials are creating a lot more internal gear and fluid movement. -The center diff is also creating a little more movement.
I don't know the Subaru line well enough, but I think your GT might have a standard limited slip rear differential. (Anyone?) If so, that would be my chief suspect. They can make a bit of noise after aging, though I'm not there to hear what type of "thump" it is. A quick way to confirm/refute that might be to put a fuse in the "FWD" slot underhood and drive it in front wheel drive only for a few days (anyone know if he has this service feature?). If the sound does not occur in front wheel drive, then the problem is more than likely the rear differential.
As for the front CV joints - take a look at the rubber boots. There is an inner and outer boot on each side - the outers would be the suspect as they take on the extreme angle of turning. If the rubber is intact, 48k should not wear them out. If the rubber is torn, you may have found the problem. I'd think this would have been noticed by an sharp eyed alignment tech, but......
Go into a parking lot and get this info: Turn sharp until the thump is there. Then alternately coast and accelerate to see if it changes depending on whether you're accelerating or not. Do this in both directions.
If the rear diff is the noise, it may simply be time to change the fluid. Be sure to use the correct fluid for a limited slip type if I'm correct on that.
Other than that, I'd check to be sure all the diffs are topped up for fluid, and the tranny if it's an auto. Which you didn't mention, BTW.
Has the car ever slid up against a curb such as slipping on a city street corner in winter?
Wow, that was a quick response! I asked about the curb, because a lateral hit like that experienced when fishtailing into a curb can do internal diff damage that takes a while before the damaged bushing or bearing wipes out. Doesn't sound like it here.
I can't explain why it would not do it after sitting for awhile - that kinda defies logic. Hmm.
On the FWD thing, this is a clever Subaru design that allows a service tech to disengage the center diff clutch mechanism on automatics like my '97 and I think is still on all AWD Subes. I have driven mine over 150 miles in this mode after being assured by a tech at the dealership it will do nothing and the car is designed for it. I don't think this is available to you since yours is a 5 speed which has a viscous center diff with fixed torque split as I recall from Paisan. I'll wait for someone like Paisan to chime in and confirm this. Too bad as it would be an excellent, fast and free diagnostic tool. In the interim you could go out and look underhood for a box about 2 inches by 1 inch with "FWD" prominently stamped on it to confirm this yourself.
I'd be strongly suspicious of the rear diff then. If you're mechanically inclined, and want to be sure you're on firm footing, slide under the car with an ordinary 1/2" socket ratchet and pop the upper of the two plugs out of the rearward face. That was a complicated way of saying pull the fill plug. Stick your pinkie in it and see if you can touch fluid - it should be full to this plug. If not, use something like a bent coat hanger to find out just how low it is and obviously if you suspect it's empty you could pull the lower (drain) plug to confirm. when you bring it to the dealer. At the same time, check your receipt for the 30k service and see if it mentions the diffs, and if it does, note whether they specified the special limited slip fluid. Sounds like you're describing can emanate from this situation. The cure is simply draining and refilling with the proper fluid.
If you think the thumping is more than that, it could be a loose suspension part that's getting cycled back and forth when the limited slip is doing this.
He had new tires put on recently, and this has stayed with him through these two different sets of tires. So I think the tires are out of the equation. As to FWD, on my vehicle you actually insert a fuse into a normally empty slot rather than pull one. Thanks for confirming the manuals don't have this - bummer.
Your input on my trailer hitch question was appreciated. It looks like I'll just end up with a Yakima roof rack.
rob999: Yes breckco refers to Breckenridge, CO but I don't live there (but visit whenever I can). I actually live 180 degrees away in San Diego. I have been to the dealer is Silverthorne and I find it's interesting to find a small dealership at nearly 10,000 ft (it's got to be the highest elevation dealership in the country). A LOT of Subaru's in that area!
I'm sure this has been hashed out here someplace, but I'm interested in the prevailing wisdom on why o'why o' why Subaru forces Outback wagon buyers who want a 6 cyl into either a VDC (a pretty costly "option") or living with the "Bean" logo on their seats and elsewhere.
After sharing frustrations with a saleperson today--he noting how many sales it's cost him and me lamenting that I just don't want a "badged" Edition car like the Bean-- I just don't believe that all of the prospects for the 6 cyl either drop down to a four or accept one of the two 6 cyl models. I know the "Bean" gets you maintenance and maybe something else like two-tone seats, but I've never seen another "edition" car that also wasn't available in substantially the same form without the added badging, which personally I have no use for.
It would be so easy to just offer a "regular" 6 as a Limited in addition to the Bean and VDC. And there would be more people driving these cars, including me. Rant over.
Thanks Doug for clearing that up about the fuse on the AT's. It is 'insert' to make it FWD.
Lumbar: join us in the Subaru Crew Future Models II discussion - there's currently a discussion about the Legacy models we don't get in the U.S., including the Legacy H6's (Legacy6, RS30, etc.).
I bet it is the wheel bearing. Our 626 kind of made a "chunk chunk chunk" sound going down the road some times, frequency being speed dependent.
lumbar: you can remove the outside badges with tooth floss, fairly easy. Also, the H6 sedan does not carry the LL Bean badges. I guess I like LL Bean stuff so I wouldn't mind it one bit. Their store in Tysons has an actual fishing pond where you can put your "fly" to the test.
Yeah, I'd change the oil at 6 months, since you put so few miles on it.
Wow, are the newer model oil change intervals really that short - 3k?? My '97 says 7500 miles, which I'll stick to even though I'm using synthetic.
On the oil changes. Having the oil changed at 750 miles was probably not in the best interests of the engine though I'm splitting hairs here. There is usually a first oil change interval that's shorter than the normal one, and it's usually a few thousand miles to let the bearings properly seat in, then get rid of the metal particles therein. Changing it to fresh oil so soon prolongs the breakin process though the downside would only be that you'll have a tighter engine longer (less MPG, a couple warmer bearings, metal particles in the oil) before breaking in.
Also, since oil only breaks down with use (vs time), there's little point in changing it - particularly since the engine might be better served by finishing some breakin wear. Most manufacturers recommend it be changed annually even if the annual miles don't add up to the interval. But 5 months would be early to me.
In sum, if it were my car and it had been changed at 750 accidentally by a shop, I'd leave the current oil in until it hit whatever the first oil change mile were supposed to be. Consult your owner's manual for this - mine says 3000 miles.
I used to go 7500 miles between, but now I just do the Forester and the Miata at the same time, whichever needs it first I just change both. It ends up being at about 3000-3500 miles or so.
After watching so many Toyotas sludge up, I'll admit that influenced my decision to make the intervals shorter.
Comments
-mike
bit
-mike
Although my experience is limited to the factory fogs on my Forester, I'm going to say go with driving lights. The reason is the same as mike -- the fogs won't illuminate far up enough to warn you of upcoming deer. I don't know what the range is of the MicroDE, but I couldn't imagine it being more than 30ft out in front of your vehicle. If I were to be driving down a dark mountain road at 40mph I'm not sure 30ft is going to give me enough time to react.
I'm sure you can get the driving lights to stay on with your highs and lows depending on how it's wired.
Ken
My wife came back from Kmart after buying 8 lawn chairs - they all fit inside her Legacy wagon. She said she wouldn't even have considered trying that in her old sedan.
The credit card bill just came in - um, maybe that's not a good thing! LOL
-juice
I know that the wheel locks don't provide high security, but they can deter a less-determined thief. Of course, door locks don't provide much security either (you wouldn't even need Mike's 19mm socket, just his sledge, and ONE good whack, and you're through the glass and can reach inside and unlock the door...no keys needed!).
Len
-mike
Len
I don't want the top slashed, in fact I'd rather they took the whole thing and I'd have an excuse to get a newer one.
-juice
-juice
A contact of ours is looking for a group of luxury SUV enthusiasts who would be willing to come to Irvine, CA August 24th from 9am to 3pm for a test drive, focus group and lunch. Participants will be compensated for their time. If you are interested in participating in this event, please send an email with your contact information as well as the model vehicle you drive to: chotti@earthlink.net.
Thanks for your consideration!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
:-)
-Brian
-juice
Alland
Alland
Paisan - yes, I'm trying to mount a set of 4000 fogs on my Legacy that I removed from the Montero. Not much metal up there, but I'm working on a way to make it happen.
IdahoDoug
- Lou
-mike
Spent some time looking at the Legacy again today for light fitment. It's going to be a tough mount due to the lack of metal issue. The 4000s jiggled a bit on the Montero even with custom mounts of welded 1/4 inch steel bolted to steel. I had to use the upper rally mounts which made them absolutely solid no matter the terrain. On the Subaru I'll have neither steel to bolt the mounts I'm thinking of onto, nor a way to place an upper support. So this could be tough. I have an idea to use the upper license plate bolts as a secondary attaching point that would reduce movement, but that's going to make fabricating the mounts an extremely precise affair as I'll have to also line up mount holes on the plastic inner bumper (usually called the impact bar) under the painted fascia.
I am starting to have doubts about the entire project as the lights are so large that I'll be looking at the upper half of the lights from the driver's seat. This will also screw up airflow to the windshield and I'm a RainX fan. It will make them vulnerable to being crunched in a parking lot as they'll be the farthest forward part on the car. Finally, the cost of having the mounts made will be nearly the price of a set of Hella 500s which would be a piece of cake to mount and they're a pretty good lamp.
But, I may find a way to get them on there despite the other issues. Hmmm....
IdahoDoug
Any thoughts on lights that would be the same size and mount in the same location as the existing fogs on a 2000 OB?
Thanks,
Ron
-juice
While there I saw a new '03 LL Bean wagon in the monotone Titanium Pearl. All I can say is WOW! It looks great. For those longing for monotone Outbacks, your wish is has arrived.
I also saw a base '03 Outback in silver! It also looked very good. Haven't seen the new yellow WRXs yet, at least not in person.
Bob
Where in the cargo area is it located?
Can anyone describe what it looks like?
Kinda curious.
Our car came with the factory stereo and while it sounds good, I'd like to upgrade it by installing the tweeter kit, speaker upgrade and possibly the amp/subwoofer. Does anyone have any experience adding these to their system? And if so was the install easy and does it make a noticable difference? When I see pictures of the speaker upgrade kit it looks like it comes with 2 different sized speaker sets. I thought the front and rear speakers were the same size.
Any Help Appreciated.
Congrats on the new car - I'm sure it will serve you well, as mine has over the last 2 years.
As an hitch alternative , install a 1.25" receiver trailer hitch, then use a 1.25"-to-2" adapter to step up to a 2" bike rack. The weight limitation is probably due to the smaller tube diameter of the 1.25" bike rack.
As your moniker suggests, are you from Breckinridge, CO and did you buy your car at the dealer in Silverthorne? Am thinking of sending my parents there (um, to buy a car, not to sell my parents).
I'd try to find a hitch with a 2" receiver, FWIW.
Monotone looks good, eh Bob? Still have not seen one in person.
Congrats, Chris, BTW.
-juice
Bob
Bob
-juice
Bob
2" is more universal. Mine is 1.25", but lots of things won't fit on it.
-juice
Just completed a week's loop from Seattle to Sandpoint, Idaho, Banff and Jasper, Alberta, and back to Seattle via Kamloops, BC.
Car performed flawlessly (now 2-1/2 years old with 25K miles) - got 31 mpg on the 2-lane mountain portions of the trip (about 800 miles or so); 60 +/- mph in those sections (2K OB Ltd wagon w/5-spd - clean configuration, 3 SOBs and luggage).
Surprised NOT to see many OBs in a region I thought would be crawling with them (as Seattle is) - strangely, saw more Pontiac Azteks (sp?) in Banff and Jasper in a few days than I've ever seen in Seattle - looked like local vehicles. Go figure. Gas (regular) in Canada ran in the $1.60s to $1.80s per US gallon (US dollars, too), in case you're thinking of going. Great scenery, very friendly folks - food and drink quite reasonable - only lodging a bit pricey (but not a lot of competition in Banff & Jasper). Lots of opportunity for backwoods driving if you're so inclined. Watch out for the bears!
Cheers!
Ken in Seattle
I'm hoping someone out there can help with a problem I'm having with my 2001 GT wagon. Here's the short story: Noticed tread on rear tire was wearing on the inside edge. 48k miles on the car so I figured I'd just replace all 4 tires in the fall. One week later I started hearing thumping when turning in or out of my driveway (i.e.- driving very slowly with the steering wheel turned very sharp). Figured it was due to uneven wear on the tires, so I had a 4 wheel alignment done and 4 new Dunlop A2 Sport SP tires installed. First day with new tires, no problem. Next day, started thumping again. It appears if I let car sit a couple days, the thumping goes away when first driven, but as warms up, thumping comes back. I don't hear/feel the thumping if going straight. Has anyone else had a similar experience. Your input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Cheers!
Paul
> Which side? Both? Have the tires ever been rotated?
48k miles on the car so I figured I'd just replace all 4 tires in the fall. One week later I started hearing thumping when turning in or out of my driveway (i.e.- driving very slowly with the steering wheel turned very sharp).
>Which direction - both? Where does the thumping seem to be coming from. Can you feel it in the steering wheel at all?
>The only running gear changes that occur from driving straight to turning sharp are:
-The front axle CV joints run at a sharp angle.
-The front and rear differentials are creating a lot more internal gear and fluid movement.
-The center diff is also creating a little more movement.
I don't know the Subaru line well enough, but I think your GT might have a standard limited slip rear differential. (Anyone?) If so, that would be my chief suspect. They can make a bit of noise after aging, though I'm not there to hear what type of "thump" it is. A quick way to confirm/refute that might be to put a fuse in the "FWD" slot underhood and drive it in front wheel drive only for a few days (anyone know if he has this service feature?). If the sound does not occur in front wheel drive, then the problem is more than likely the rear differential.
As for the front CV joints - take a look at the rubber boots. There is an inner and outer boot on each side - the outers would be the suspect as they take on the extreme angle of turning. If the rubber is intact, 48k should not wear them out. If the rubber is torn, you may have found the problem. I'd think this would have been noticed by an sharp eyed alignment tech, but......
Go into a parking lot and get this info: Turn sharp until the thump is there. Then alternately coast and accelerate to see if it changes depending on whether you're accelerating or not. Do this in both directions.
If the rear diff is the noise, it may simply be time to change the fluid. Be sure to use the correct fluid for a limited slip type if I'm correct on that.
Other than that, I'd check to be sure all the diffs are topped up for fluid, and the tranny if it's an auto. Which you didn't mention, BTW.
Has the car ever slid up against a curb such as slipping on a city street corner in winter?
IdahoDoug
I guess the short story was too short.
Noticed tread on rear passenger side tire was wearing on the inside edge.
I rotated tires front to back about every 10K miles.
I notice the thumping in both forward and reverse. I feel the thump through the chasis of the car, not the stearing wheel.
The GT does have a limited slip rear diff.
Rubber boots on CV joints are in perfect condition.
The thump doesn't change either coasting or accelerating.
Just had the 30K tuneup a few months ago, I believe the fluids would have been checked/filled then (I put a lot of miles on very quickly).
BTW, its a 5 speed.
"Has the car ever slid up against a curb such as slipping on a city street corner in winter?"
- not unless my wife did it and didn't tell me, like that would ever happen, right.
I don't know that I would want to force an AWD into front wheel drive mode, doesn't sound like it would be good for the vehicle.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks,
I can't explain why it would not do it after sitting for awhile - that kinda defies logic. Hmm.
On the FWD thing, this is a clever Subaru design that allows a service tech to disengage the center diff clutch mechanism on automatics like my '97 and I think is still on all AWD Subes. I have driven mine over 150 miles in this mode after being assured by a tech at the dealership it will do nothing and the car is designed for it. I don't think this is available to you since yours is a 5 speed which has a viscous center diff with fixed torque split as I recall from Paisan. I'll wait for someone like Paisan to chime in and confirm this. Too bad as it would be an excellent, fast and free diagnostic tool. In the interim you could go out and look underhood for a box about 2 inches by 1 inch with "FWD" prominently stamped on it to confirm this yourself.
I'd be strongly suspicious of the rear diff then. If you're mechanically inclined, and want to be sure you're on firm footing, slide under the car with an ordinary 1/2" socket ratchet and pop the upper of the two plugs out of the rearward face. That was a complicated way of saying pull the fill plug. Stick your pinkie in it and see if you can touch fluid - it should be full to this plug. If not, use something like a bent coat hanger to find out just how low it is and obviously if you suspect it's empty you could pull the lower (drain) plug to confirm. when you bring it to the dealer. At the same time, check your receipt for the 30k service and see if it mentions the diffs, and if it does, note whether they specified the special limited slip fluid. Sounds like you're describing can emanate from this situation. The cure is simply draining and refilling with the proper fluid.
If you think the thumping is more than that, it could be a loose suspension part that's getting cycled back and forth when the limited slip is doing this.
Let us know what you find.
Regards,
IdahoDoug
APH
Are the tires noticeably different in circumference from where? (ie: is there more than 1/4" difference in each tire)
-Brian
IdahoDoug
rob999:
Yes breckco refers to Breckenridge, CO but I don't live there (but visit whenever I can). I actually live 180 degrees away in San Diego. I have been to the dealer is Silverthorne and I find it's interesting to find a small dealership at nearly 10,000 ft (it's got to be the highest elevation dealership in the country). A LOT of Subaru's in that area!
Live Happy
After sharing frustrations with a saleperson today--he noting how many sales it's cost him and me lamenting that I just don't want a "badged" Edition car like the Bean-- I just don't believe that all of the prospects for the 6 cyl either drop down to a four or accept one of the two 6 cyl models. I know the "Bean" gets you maintenance and maybe something else like two-tone seats, but I've never seen another "edition" car that also wasn't available in substantially the same form without the added badging, which personally I have no use for.
It would be so easy to just offer a "regular" 6 as a Limited in addition to the Bean and VDC. And there would be more people driving these cars, including me. Rant over.
Lumbar: join us in the Subaru Crew Future Models II discussion - there's currently a discussion about the Legacy models we don't get in the U.S., including the Legacy H6's (Legacy6, RS30, etc.).
-Brian
-mike
lumbar: you can remove the outside badges with tooth floss, fairly easy. Also, the H6 sedan does not carry the LL Bean badges. I guess I like LL Bean stuff so I wouldn't mind it one bit. Their store in Tysons has an actual fishing pond where you can put your "fly" to the test.
Yeah, I'd change the oil at 6 months, since you put so few miles on it.
-juice
On the oil changes. Having the oil changed at 750 miles was probably not in the best interests of the engine though I'm splitting hairs here. There is usually a first oil change interval that's shorter than the normal one, and it's usually a few thousand miles to let the bearings properly seat in, then get rid of the metal particles therein. Changing it to fresh oil so soon prolongs the breakin process though the downside would only be that you'll have a tighter engine longer (less MPG, a couple warmer bearings, metal particles in the oil) before breaking in.
Also, since oil only breaks down with use (vs time), there's little point in changing it - particularly since the engine might be better served by finishing some breakin wear. Most manufacturers recommend it be changed annually even if the annual miles don't add up to the interval. But 5 months would be early to me.
In sum, if it were my car and it had been changed at 750 accidentally by a shop, I'd leave the current oil in until it hit whatever the first oil change mile were supposed to be. Consult your owner's manual for this - mine says 3000 miles.
IdahoDoug
After watching so many Toyotas sludge up, I'll admit that influenced my decision to make the intervals shorter.
-juice