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Comments
For the tail/turn/brake lights used a four connector trailer wiring kit with diodes to connect into the existing lites - that took a few hours. Since my motor home uses the separate turn/brake lights a 6 connector retangular plug was used and plumbed into the 4-connector wire. But of course I had to bury myself up in the motor home back end to do some rewiring there to handle the separation. This was because the Jeep Cherokee was set up for a combination brake/turn/running lights using the same 2-filament bulb.
So far about 6,000 towing miles have been put on with only a replacement battery (bought at Wal-Mart in Pecos, Texas). Oh, I also remove the radio fuse (15 amp) since the time is displayed when the key is in the accessories position for towing. Did this after the 4+ year old battery crapped out when passing through western Texas this past September/October.
Coming back from the Balloon Fiesta in Albuquerque the OB was never unhooked/started for 3 days. The battery never got discharged.
Oh, yeah. I use a Brake Buddy auxiliary braking device in the OB for extra braking power when stopping quickly. That runs off the battery with a small air compressor that activates an arm that is connected to the brake pedal. An electronic pendulum device controls the braking on the toad.
Steve (Twin Cities, Minnesota)
Driving home the check engine light came on. The manual says this could be caused by a problem or potenial problem in the vehicle emissions system (?) or problems with putting on the gas tank cap when filling up.
My dealer is quite a distance from me so I stopped at a local shop for an oil change and asked them about the light. They claimed everything was fine and these kind of cars are prone to this sort of sensor problem.
Anyone have any experience with this? The car acts and sounds fine but I will spend a day at a dealership if necessary.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
If you don't tighten the fuel cap enough so that it clicks a half-dozen times, the CEL may display. This happened to me. I tightened the cap and the light went away after the car was restarted a few times over the next couple days.
Secondly, have you had the recall service done for the Check Engine light? Last spring(?) there was a recall on many subaru models (included 2001 Outbacks). I believe the service was just a re-program of the computer to make the light less sensitive.
I'd suggest getting it checked out. Some autoparts stores will check the error codes for free. Then you can decide on going to the dealer or not.
--Jay
Steve
While Subarus have good reliability reviews, this is our first Subaru and we will see how it performs over time. We had luck with 3 Toyotas before. Just retired a 1990 Camry after 156,000 miles. Except for the usual wear and tear(tires, brakes, batteries, belts etc.) the only other things needed for it were a thermostat and a valve cover gasket after 10 years of use ($210).
Thanks to all of you for the information I found here.
Roger
You mentioned the '90 Camry. I had a '90 LE-V6 wagon, which came with the one-plus upgrade over the 4 cyl models: 195/60-15 vs. 185/70-14. My wagon rode harder than a friends, but the handling was incredible by comparison. BTW, I sold it in '97 with 115k miles, and still see it occasionally around town.
Steve
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
"SUBARU RECALLS A LITTLE OF EVERYTHING
Subaru says it will recall 163,243 vehicles from its U.S. lineup for a problem with the automatic transmissions offered in the cars. The company says some 2001 Legacys, all of its 2002 Legacy, Outback, Impreza and Forester crossovers, and some 2003 Legacys, Outbacks, Foresters, Imprezas and Bajas will be brought back because an automatic-transmission park rod could be defective, which could allow the vehicles to slip out of park and roll. The company will begin notifying owners and will start repairing vehicles after the first of the year."
Yes, generally moonroofs do eat into head room. At least the Legacy had more than usual to begin with, given the raised roof design.
I would not go to a 15" wheel because there might be issues with brake clearance. I think the rotors got a bit bigger when they upgraded the wheels, though I could be wrong.
What I would do instead is just lower the tire pressure. Dealers usually have them at 32psi or so, try 29psi and see if that rides better for your tastes. Don't go too low, of course.
-juice
subearu "Subaru Baja" Nov 8, 2002 9:33pm
The transmission (4EAT) has been very reliable for Subaru and used for several years. This recall shouldn't be a big deal.
-Brian
You have to love the wording too, "an automatic-transmission park rod could be defective, which could allow the vehicles to slip out of park and roll."
It COULD be defective, and it COULD allow the vehicles to slip out of park and roll...
That's a lot of coulds... but what if you just use the parking brakes, and turn the wheels like you're supposed to?
Jim
I always apply the parking brake first, let off the service brake slightly with the tranny in neutral to allow the driveline to 'settle' into a unloaded condition, then shift into park. This way the parking pawl bears no load. But I cannot get my wife to even use the parking brake. She shifts into park, and lets the full weight of the vehicle "bounce" against the pawl. I keep warning her that one day that tiny little rod is going to shear right off, but she ignores me!
Steve
On the passenger side, the temperature rarely breaks the "luke warm" phase, and usually, my wife can never tell it's on.
Is this common for the Outbacks? We don't seem to experience this in my wife's Forrester.
Has anyone else experienced this? Is is normal?
No data on passenger seat.
Our '99 Forrester seats are nice and warm, and I unsually have to switch to the low setting after a couple if minutes. The heat does not fluctuate as much either.
Does anyone know whether Subaru changed systems since the late '90's?
Steve (yet another one (Twin Cities, MN)
Steve (Hopewell Junction, NY)
Jon: great, we found the culprit then. Remind your dealer so he check the air pressure during the PDI in the future.
Heated seats: I'm jealous since I don't have any at all, so you'll get no sympathies from me! :-)
16mpg is pretty awful, about the worst I've heard of here. But you're getting 24mpg now?
The light probably went on because the O2 sensor detected unburned fuel. Sounds like the problem may have cleared itself, but you still have to reset the code. Let the dealer do it and ask what it reported, then document it in case it comes up again in the future.
-juice
the 24mpg I got was nearly all highway on a little trip I went on yesterday. That's as good as it gets for me. Around town it's usually 19 or 20, except for the 16 I just had. I don't know how some are getting upper twenties. I've never seen anything close. Getting 16 makes me think there is something wrong, and perhaps that's why the light came on.
-juice
For what it's worth,on my 00 Outback I'm getting roughly the same MPG that you are (23-24 hwy/ 18-20 city). In winter, when we switch over to oxygenated "winter blend" gas, mileage is worse.
If this is something that "just sort of appeared", try changing gas stations. We had a problem with pretty bad mileage on our 02 Forester with bad rotten egg smell AND pinging. I switched over to BP fuel and the knoc and rotten egg smell have abated. It's only the second tankfull since the switch but mpg has improved a bit.
Ron
Ron
YetAnotherDave
Where is she, I want to here more about that Brazil trip?
-juice
-juice
Can anyone tell me if the Subaru subwoofer boosts power to the door speakers, or just powers the subwoofer? Subaru website is silent.
Thanks
Thanks in advance.
1) A lot of Subie owners put in aftermarket system, why charger more $ for a stock system that will get ripped out anyway
2) The other portion of subie owners don't really care that much about high end audio systems in their cars remember most subie owners are practical
Steve
Usually the column switches are just that - dumb switches which interface to a module that sends the final signal to the motors. If variable intermittant was offered as an option on your year on an upper line model, you might get away with just a change in switch. The logic here is that Subaru would probably make only one module for all cars (cheaper in the long run), then just change the switch to add or subtract functions depending on what the consumer paid for. If it was not offered at all, you would probably be in for a major job to change out everything, including possibly the wiring harness that connects the components.
Hope this helps,
Steve
Enthusiasts should look to the aftermarket. For listening to "Sesame Street Live", believe me, the speakers are TOO good!
BTW, Lexus will gladly accept your $3220 for their optional Mark Levinson stereo on the LS.
The subwoofer is powered and pre-wired, but and separate from the door speakers.
-juice
Really, how much extra would it have cost Subaru just to outfit all models/levels with the variable wipers? I would've paid the incremental cost without a blink.
Then they calculate how many sales they'll add, and have to make up for that extra cost.
I say add content and then tout it in your ads. This is one way Subaru could truly move upmarket. Look at Passat's 5 speed auto and side curtain air bags. They're selling W8s for $40 grand.
-juice
David
-juice
Wind noise from roof rails: another strategy is just slide the forward rail to the rear a bit ..say above the rear doors...that way the noise is behind the driver. If you carry something on top of course slide the rail back to the front.
I only used one for the driver seat. It was a good price too ~$10. Our Kmart closed as part of the corporate troubles so everything was 50-70% off.
Heated seats work great on my 2001 OB. 17 degrees this morning. high setting = back and seat, low setting = just the back.
--jay
1) Replaced tires w/Dunlop Sport A2's - handle great in rain and dry.
2)Have to replace the front brake pads.
Otherwise the car is riding nicely.
Mark
http://pdubois.tripod.com/photoalbum/index.html