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Subaru Outback VDC
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Hope this helps!
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Our VDC has been experiencing a 'rattle' at around 2500 RPM (a range of 2300 - 3100 RPM actually) after the engine was warmed up and at varying loads (but worst when dropping from 3000+ down to 2000's). In the driveway, I was able to finally pinpoint the rattle down to the accessory belt/timing chain area at the front of the engine.
Took the car to the dealer (Melody's in Kirkland, WA) on Tuesday for a routine oil change and have them figure out and tighten whatever was loose and causing the 'rattle/buzz'. Turns out that a bearing went out on a tensioner for the timing chain and that they would had to order a replacement part. Well, it's now the fourth day and the part is not expected until early to middle of next week!
Just curious if anyone else has seen/heard about this problem (Patti?). What started out as a minor nuisance will likely be grating my nerves by the middle of next week (the wife is a bit irked at being stuck in a loaner 4-cyl base model for what is now looking like a week+...). Not exactly what I was hoping for from a $30K car with only 4000 miles and hopefully is the last problem for a while.
Beyond that, we really are loving our VDC. The interior is still amazingly quiet (especially having driven the 4-cyl model for 4 days now!) and it is the only new car that I have owned that has not developed some annoying squeaks and rattles inside after 4000 miles of driving.
Craig in Seattle
Has anyone purchased the Yakima roof rack made for Subaru?
I would appreciate any comments on this.
The rook rack is not a fork mounted bike rack, so you do not have to take the front wheel off. But, it probable is a little less stable than a fork mounted rack.
On my last Outback I had a Subaru Yakima roof rack that held two bikes without a problem. My LL Bean has a fork mount rack which, as you state, is actually more secure. Taking the front wheel off, assuming you have quick releases on the bikes, is really an easy thing to do. Takes but a minute. Hope this is of help.
Don
Keith
The rack I have is the Yakima Copperhead model. It was sent to me by IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association) as part of a membership promotion. The rack came with towers and round bars. According to Colorado Cyclist, the rack lists for $78.99 and the towers with bars are about another $100. Colorado Cyclist has an excellent web site . Their toll free number is 1-800.688.8600.
If you wish to contact IMBA, their membership number is 1.888.442.4622. Speak with Heather who is very helpful. As you probably know, IMBA is a dedicated advocacy group and has a great reputation.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
BTW: I was born in Connecticut, raised in New Haven, graduated from Wesleyan University and found my way (company transfer) to the midwest some 30 years ago. My Last CT. home was in Fairfield.
Don
I haven't seen you mentioned any problem on the OB brakes. I have a LLB for a month, the brake squeaky sound already annoyed me. So does the slow reaction of transmission during acceletation. Have you ever had or felt those two problems? Maybe you had them fixed by dealer, didn't you?
D.
I have heard a slight squeal. Only happens first thing in the morning, when I back out of the garage. After that, no squeal. I grew up with my dad's Mercedes-Benz(s) and all of them would squeal in rev. Not an annoyance to me. I think its kind-of Euro actually!
Still wondering: Have any H6 owners checked their wheels for any irregularities in machining as I described in an earlier post? I am getting my one 'bad' wheel replaced and I am just curious how many more are like that out there, or, if this is just an isolated case.
Robert in Atlanta.
(ps. popgun, see, I did it too, now you try it....its fun;)
My wheels seem to be machined properly.
Other comments:
After 3500 miles, my avg mpg is about 22.5 - 23, air on, 50% highway. Was 26 on 2000 mile trip. This is about same as my Volvo 850 wagon that weighed about 500 less pounds.
The hesitation problems that I had complained about earlier have largely gone away; I guess a combination of us learning each other.
I have had no squeeking problems with brakes or no other problems. Still quiet as a church mouse.
Mike from North texas
I advanced the timing on my Miata, and the other day I mistakenly left it in 5th after exiting the highway. When I punched the gas, boy did it ever knock. I would describe it as a wood pecker going to town on cedar!
It was my mistake, really, and it won't happen again (promise!). But it does show that a knocking engine should sound rather obvious and blunt. Any lesser rattle or buzz could be something else.
-juice
I went out car shopping again this past weekend and have finally made up my mind as to which Outback to purchase, which add-ons to add and what color I would prefer. Now, it is time for the final decision. I've always been one to seek as much advice as possible, so again, any advice is much appreciated. Should I buy the 2001 or the 2002? I know that there will be a price difference, due for one to the financing (if through SOA), but what would be a realistic difference in the buying purchase price from the dealer. Juice, you mentioned a difference of $790 after the rebate. Should I realistically expect to only pay that much more? In my opinion, that may be worth it.
Thanks again,
Colin
48" Round bars $40
DoubleCross towers $110
SKS cores 4-pack + 2 Keys $37
10" airfoil (wing-shaped, to stop the rumbling of having bare round bars) with white Subaru decal
Has white Subaru decals instead of Yak, and is all black instead of the red on the Yak branded DoubleCross. However, the bar-ends and tower tighteners have raised, but not highlighted, "Yakima" on them.
I currently have that setup on my VDC with two Yak Steelheads mounted outside the towers with enough room for an Anklebiter plus wheel forks or a cargo carrier or ButtonDown-6s between the towers.
HTH,
Theo in Colorado
-juice
Concerning the wheel irregularity: What should one look for on the wheel?
I also have experienced a slight steering shake at steady highway speeds. That is, when you accelerate you don't have a steering shake but when you are in cruise control I experince it. Misalignment, bad wheel balance, new tires causes this shake?
(before a bunch of you jump all over this...I know the transmissions are the same...its the VDC system that controls the transmission and its power distribution..)
I have to agree with what many reviewers are syaing about cars with skid control (like the VDC and the Toyota Highlander) - it needs an off switch. When the roads are dry and you want a little driving enthusiasm, a driver should be able to turn the skid control option off. The manufacturers can have it so that it defaults to the On position everytime the car is started.
I was happy with the LL Bean's transmission performance, but I'm comparing it to my 1994 Jeep Cherokee I-6. The Bean doesn't have the "throwing you into your seat" 1st gear acceleration, but if you need that, go get the WRX with a manual. What would be awesome on the Subaru Outback H-6 is a steptronic automatic (or on any Subaru)!
The brakes were great, no complaints (again, compared to the Jeep).
Since the "traditional" Subaru AWD is 100 times better than my 4WD Jeep in safety/handling, I'm plenty happy with the LL Bean. (..or will I be shortly...)
So my point? If you are interested in the LL Bean, make sure you test drive the Bean and not the VDC, there is a difference!
Bob
About the bike racks: Is there alot of wind noise with the racks, or is it just once you have the bikes in them?
Thanks,
creek
No question about it. There will be "wind" noise created by the rack. The noise is more pronounced with bikes on the rack. I find speeds over 50 mph bring out the "noise." But then, as a dedicated bicycler, who cares!!! It's good to know the bikes are securely mounted.
Don
Robert in Atlanta
Don, Yellow bike? Road or Mountain? Although I too am a dedicated cyclist, I chose to put the back seats down and put the bike in the back so as to not have to listen to the noise or kill my gas mileage as I used to do with my Accord. If I ever do get a rack, I will probably get one that mounts to the receiver like I use on my Odyssey.
Robert in Atlanta
Al in St. Louis
-juice
On the plus side, I really do notice the rear wheel bias and I like it better; this car really handles well, not as good as my Supra but much, much better than my former Volvo 850 front wheel drive wagon. Then there is the McIntosh system which includes more body insulation and the best CD sound I have heard in a car.
the bottom line: both cars are great; drive them both critically against your needs and pocketbook. I like to travel with great CD's and no road noise; the VDC worked best for me.
Mike
I ride a road bike made by Serotta. It was originally all yellow but thanks to my kids' generosity during the past holidays, the bike went back to Serotta and was refinished white fading to yellow. As I had a long enough e-mail address, I stayed with yellowbike don.
The nice thing about our relocation to Florida is the chance to ride year 'round. I haven't seen another Serotta here in south Florida yet but then, I hardly see Subarus in the area. I'll just have to become a missionary!
Don
mikenk: I didn't mean to imply that the VDC handling was bad, just different than the LL Bean and to not judge one if you've only driven the other.
Jack - Ohio
Popgun in California
Just guessing here. I don't have a VDC, but my Bean pulls nice and hard right off the line....and if feels like a rear wheel drive while at it.
Bob
I heard about the lighted ignition key, but did not pay attention to that on the vehicle I saw. I will request a test drive if it is still there when I go back to have the wheels swapped out on my Bean.
Robert in Atlanta.
Since he's had it, he's noted lousy gas mileage (as comnpare to his old Cherokee even!!!) and high insurance. Flipside -- the cargo space: He's a travel nurse and needs to move all belongings from city to city every three or four months. Pathfinder build quality is universally cited as excellent -- gets a lot more magazine compliments for this than the Subaru. And let's face it -- a silver Pathfinder sure looks sharp in the driveway. And he did not want what he considers a "mere station wagon."
I considered a Pathfinder, could not tolerate the lack of people room (as opposed to cargo space) poor mileage, and just plain lack of driving involvement. I recommend you go with the Outback. We've had six and loved them all.
I am curious to know if the timing chain failure mentioned in your post is somehow related to the tensioner bearing failure that we experienced. Did you have the same rattle/buzz in the engine compartment between 2300 and 3100 RPM (see post #604 for more detailed description) prior to the failure?
Sorry to hear about your problem.
Craig in Seattle
Bill Johnson, Bethlehem PA
Bob
I am very glad that Subaru is moving quickly to resolve the issue, but now I have to hope the new engine doesn't suffer from some of the other various problems discussed previously (hesitation, ECM issues, etc.), not to mention installation-caused problems that could pop up.
You can bet I'll keep everyone posted as to the final result one we get the car back. As always, comments are welcome...
Craig in Seattle
Bob
bit
I grew up driving in Illinois, which is relatively flat driving conditions.
Now, I am out in California, which has a lot of mountains, and hills.
When driving up a hill, do I let the automatic transmission figure out when to shift? Or do I shift down myself? If I do it myself, how do I know when to down shift? At what speed?
When driving down a hill, I understand that I should downshift to use the engine to brake. At what speeds is it OK to downshift? Should I intervene like this?
Even if I downshift, when going down hill, the car will build up speed, at this point, I have no choice but to step on the brake. I always manage to cause the brakes to get really hot and start smell a burning odor.
Any tips on driving my VDC up and down mountains/hills would be appreciated.
Is this type of driving OK for the first 1000 miles?
I haven't had time to carefully check those wheels for any irregularities in machining. I will let you know if find any.
My LLBean brake squeaks when I drive it either forward or backward after parking for a long time ( > 4 hrs). Longer parking, loader and longer squeak sound. I believe your dad's cars squeaked nicely. The squeak, however, was not and is not on e of standard features of any auto. Neither car owners nor Subaru itself like it. You might be a exception.
Anyway, this is one of machanic problems of 2001 Outbacks. Subaru already realized it. In another Subaru forum, I saw a post that says Subaru will come up solution this month August. I was also told by a service person in Subaru dealer ship of Kirkland WA that correction on the squeak brake comes soon.
If any owner of 2001 Outbacks had this squeak fixed, please give us a post. Thanks.
Timing chain: That sounds terrible, and SOA is correct to replace the engine. Once the chain fails there can be considerable damage in the engine. In a related matter, I had a Ford Taurus blow the tranny at 70mph on I-95 between Wash DC and Baltimore. Similar situation, I was in the outside lane and luckily got into the emergency lane.
One question: What filter size does the H6 engine use? There is nothing in the manual nor does the auto store have a filter size for the H6. Thanks.
Bill J. Bethlehem PA.
-juice
Unfortunately, I don't think the computer can see down the mountain road and know how to shift to use the engine as a brake. In Colorado, you can get a ticket for overheating your brakes in the mountains. (Too many people have "taken the plunge" :-O )
HTH,
Theo in Colorado
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