Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
If its considered new, negotiate based on what a new Explorer will cost minus rebates, holdbacks, and for at least for $0.15 per mile and if its used, try taking something off that.
I'm not sure if Ford's warranty kicked in the day it became a demo OR if it will when its sold.
1) Is the 1.5% of the total invoice?
2) What is a floorplanning allowance?
dealer invoice(roughly $21.5K)
minus Ford's rebate($1500)
minus dealer's advertised discount($2500)
plus 3% profit.
They refused to include the discount. They said they would be giving me the van at much less than their cost. I don't get it. Edmunds and every other source says you should start from invoice. Well, when dealers are advertising sale prices, shouldn't you take the sale price off of invoice? Otherwise, it's not a sale. If that's the case, I won't bother fighting the crowds at the President's Day "sales." Any suggestions?
3% to be at the lowest "starting price" and then figure in what profit I'm willing for the dealer to make?
Yes, although some incentives like added dealer accessories are dealer promotions.
Correct, and that is exactly how I would proceed. Even consider that at any given time, several layers of the dealership may have hidden incentives that you cannot possibly know about. Because of that, I would even start negotiating lower.
dealership that you are speaking about may have already been including the $1,500 Ford rebate in their sale amount. When you came in and knew that this rebate existed and tried to combine it with their "Sale" is was too much for them in their mind to discount the vehicle.
The Holdback amount is sort of a dealer secret profit. They definitely do not want consumers to know about it and it is not intended as a rebate to consumers. Occasionally, dealerships will reluctantly dip into the holdback amount on a deal if the consumer is educated enough to know about it and drives a hard bargain.
I'm a bit confused. You mention that the dealer pays every month. Yet, according to the holdback specifics, Nissan pays the dealer 1.5% of invoice as floorplan allowance.
Should I gather from what you said that the dealer pays every month, but gets some/most back when he sells the car?
I recommend verifying the advertising cost in your region by calling another dealership or 2. The cost of advertising is typically a percentage of the vehicle price (MSRP I think). Once you know that cost for sure, concentrate on negotiating the price of the car, and any options that actually contain a profit markup.
and I am not sure on exactly how to proceed with
the negotiation process. Is the following
correct/realistic....verify dealer cost(invoice)
minus Nissans' factory rebate of $2000, minus
dealer holdback of 3.5%, plus dealer markup(2%),
plus destination charges?
1)Does anyone know if there are any incentives being offered?
2)Does Honada normally participate in the President's day sales?
3)Does anyone know dealer invoice prices for the 6 cd changer and key less remote entry with siren and trunk opener.
4)I have been approved for a 7.6% loan from Chase Manhattan Bank (I live in CT), they said I have untill the 17th to purchase the vehicle. Does anyone know of a better financing alternative? Will they extend it beyond the 17th if I need more time?
5)I am a little confused about the anti-theft security system. The brochure says the car has an electronic ignition with immobilizer. What does this mean? Is there a coded chip embedded in the key, without which the car's ignition system will not work? If that is so, Can the car be hot wired in-spite of this? and Would this prevent me from installing a remote starter?
Don't worry about Presidents' Day sales. It is not the dealer's sale that'll get you a good price. It is your negotiation skills that will make the biggest difference. Look into the different buyer advice web sites like Edmunds and Motley Fools. Follow that advice and you'll beat the prices the Presidents' Day sale shoppers get.
Claude
As far as the financing goes, I can't guarantee it but there is a good possibility that the bank will extend the 7.6% past the 17th. That is a better rate than you could get through Honda Finance.
You should ask any specific questions that you have about the Accord itself, such as the security system, in the Sedans conference. Good luck shopping for your new Accord.
At this point I have no way out of this car except to sell it as used.Good Luck to all of you interested in the Accord. Go spend your money at Nissan. Questions: Bsugarman@cyberagency.net
Thanks
Thanks for the update regarding how often Edmunds updates the info.
I'm curious as to why the Nissan Maxima dealer incentive went away. Given the new Accord etc., and the fact that Miaximas don't seem to be selling well, this doesn't make sense. In fact, since the update, it appears Nissan has drastically cut back many dealer incentives.
Thoughts?
Currently Infiniti is offering 0% APR for 12 - 24 months, 2.9% for 36 months, 3.9% for 48 mo., & 4.9 % for 60 mo. There is also a special lease on the car, $399 for 36 mo. with a $500 down.
As far as cash goes there is $3,000 on the '97 I30 and $2,100 in the Northeast region on the '98 model. This cash can not be combined with the special lease or financing offers. Happy shopping.
If you look at the fine print of some of those ads, you'll see a VIN # listed. If so, it probably means the car was already sold, prior to the ad coming out (or even being conceived). Dealers will often put up a previous sale in their advertisements. While, yes, they did sell THAT car for THAT amount, it fails to mention that they probably low-balled the customer on the trade-in, the car was a dealer demo, etc. In all honesty, you should ignore car ads. There's either a gimmick behind them or you can do better just negotiating the price yourself (using the information found on Edmunds or other publications).