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Volkswagen EuroVan

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    geoffkgeoffk Member Posts: 1
    Deb:

    We had the same problem. There is a switch attached to the brake pedal that is faulty. I don't recall exactly what the repair cost, but I do remember that it wasn't expensive. If you take it to a reputable VW repair shop, they ought to be able to figure it out right away.

    Regards,

    GeoffK
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    cabfancabfan Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking about converting a Eurovan to a delivery van and was wondering if anyone had any knowledge about pulling a gas engine and dropping in a new TDI. Are there any compatibility issues? I know the tranny can handle the torque.
    Also, where can I get European suspension components? They have delivery vans in Europe based on this platform that have diesels and can carry much heavier payloads.
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    ruby55ruby55 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm wondering if you found anything more out about importing a diesel Eurovan into the dtates from Mexico. I am really interested in doing the same thing and also live in Arizona.

    Thanks,
    Julie
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    drallosdrallos Member Posts: 1
    My son has a '93 Eurovan that won't start,he had it in the shop and they couldn't figure it out. I've been checking it out and found the compression to be from 20 to 60 pounds. He said he did have a coolant leak that he fixed, but I'm thinking he overheated it and blew the head gasket and maybe warped the head. It cranks over and fires, but just won't start. I'm about ready to pull the head off and see what it looks like. Does anyone have a better idea?
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    99eurovan99eurovan Member Posts: 1
    did you find out where the oil filter is? I have the same problem.
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    jsoriajsoria Member Posts: 2
    I was wondering if anyone out there has had problems with the electrical system on their Eurovan. I have a 2001 van that the headlights and interior dash lights go out intermittently. I hear a click, the lights go out, the brake light comes on, 5 sec later, I hear the click again (from somewhere in the dashboard) and the lights come back on. Any suggestions on what is going on?
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    ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Hi, jsoria,

    Another place you might want to ask this question is in the Electronic Gremlins: electrical problems that are driving you crazy discussion. Hope you get some answers soon :-)

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

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    interbusaloointerbusaloo Member Posts: 1
    hey have you tried applying the parking brake? that does the trick you seek on my 2002... ;)
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    bot3bot3 Member Posts: 1
    Anyone with suggestions for how to repair the armrest on the Driver's chair? I leaned lightly on it and it gave out. Should I remove it to get at the mechanism? It's hard to see but it looks like an Allen wrench is needed.
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    raymerraymer Member Posts: 1
    I have just bought a 99 Eurovan Winnebago camper. It is frustrating trying to find parts and accessories for this hybrid that no one seems to want to own. Winnebago's web site doesn't reference the Eurovan Winnebago or tell you who sells their parts and accesories. One would think they would sell them. Indendent web sites that claim to are hit and miss as to what they have. A VW dealer doesn't know anything about the camper component. I live in Moorpark, CA and would like to find a good resource for camper things that break. Anyone have any suggestions?
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    matampuhinmatampuhin Member Posts: 2
    we have a 2002 eurovan with the same electrical type problem.....it's happened twice so far. 1st time it happened the brake light on dash came on and was beeping, and headlights didn't work, we took it to the dealer and they said they found nothing wrong. so thought it was a fluke until it just happened again x-mas nite driving in the dark while raining, going to signal to change lanes and the headlights went out, dash lights went out, wipers stop going!! Was very dangerous! pulled over turned off the car then started it again and all was ok...did you find out anything else about this problem....your comments would be greatly appreciated.
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    horsefacedufushorsefacedufus Member Posts: 1
    I have a FL eurovan that I am parting out on Ebay.
    Right now the complete curtain set and front grille are listed, I list more all the time.
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    bobs8bobs8 Member Posts: 2
    :cry: Just had the ignition switch replaced after problems that sound very similar to yours. Apparently some contacts on the switch run those items but allow the car to start and run. Try the wipers too, they probably won't work either. Get this fixed right away because it could cause a serious accident if it happened during a rain storm and you're driving! It was covered under warranty I would think yours is too. My van is a 2002.

    Be prepared to change the brakes real soon too if you haven't already. I've had to change them twice with only 24K miles. It's a real problem with these vans! Good Luck.
    Hope this helps- Bob
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    bobs8bobs8 Member Posts: 2
    Pretty sure it's the Ignition switch, I had identical symptoms including wipers not working. If you push the key in or wiggle it around it may do it. Get the ignition switch replaced because you could get in a serious accident if it happens at night in rain. Murphy's Law has a way of popping up!
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    john117john117 Member Posts: 2
    Larry,
    my 95 EV requires the key be in the ignition, in order for the radio to work. I have to turn the key on, then off, leaving the key in the switch. The headlights are controlled by their own switch. Still, I'm rewiring the radio, to get its power from the camper battery, as I use the stereo system for my DVD sound.
    john117
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    john117john117 Member Posts: 2
    just a thought.
    My '85 Vanagon does the same thing, also a little "smokey", but not oil smoke. A mechanic noticed this and suggested that this is a sign of a faulty Catalytic Convertor. Once it warms up, its fine. I've yet to follow up on this, but its on my List.
    john117
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    pololiapololia Member Posts: 1
    By now you've probably figured this out, but, yes, you need to pop off the plastic cap and stick a long Allen wrench down the hole to release the arm rest. Once you do that you will probably find that the ear has broken off the cam that adjusts the arm rest. Now the bad part -- finding someone who will sell you just the arm rest. I have two of these broken arm rests (both left ones), but the dealer wants hundreds of dollars for new ones, and used parts stores will only sell whole seat assemblies. Let me know if you have any luck finding replacements!
    Pololia
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    eprice1eprice1 Member Posts: 2
    Our 2002 Eurovan has what appears to be a chronic fuel problem. The check engine light comes on at increasing interals (now about every two months). Most of the time, the dealer finds no code, but sometimes replaces a sensor or some other repair. The car drives at reduced power. They replaced the ignition coils which I had hoped would fix the problem. The latest episode has the engine light plus the engine stalls immediately after cranking. It is no longer drivable. We have been in the garage with this in varying degrees of intensity about six times in the past 18 months. Anyone have any experience with this?

    Now the mechanic says we have engine sludge, which means no warranty coverage without all oil change documents from a garage. We did it ourselves to save money, and we are paying now. Don't do it yourself if you are under any kind of warranty.

    I now find that Volkswagen knows it has a sludge problem with some engines.

    So I have the choice of a big repair bill or a court case.

    Like most on this board, we loved camping and hauling our kid around in this van. Too bad it stays in the shop all the time. Buying this car was the worst financial decision I've ever made.
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    jsoriajsoria Member Posts: 2
    If you have not solved the problem then here's what my solution was to my trouble. It was the ignition switch. Try pushing your key in the position that you would if you were starting the car. By doing that, it keeps the connection for the lights going. I bought the extended warranty (thinking I was an idiot for doing it) but luckily for me, it was covered and only cost me $50.
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    shamosshamos Member Posts: 3
    My wife could not start our 2002 MV Eurovan, one morning, about a month ago. The starter would start the engine momentarily, but it would die shortly after. I tried it in the afternoon and it started with no problems. It happened again today about noon. I cranked the engine over and it died again, so I pushed the gas pedal on subsequent starts, and it would rev up momentarily and die again. I let it sit for an hour, it recovered and started again, with no problems. I have read about a few other cases like this on the internet. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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    dburgoondburgoon Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. I am new to VW's and new to this e-list. I was looking for a reply when I selected the reply button, ie: I too would like to know how to fix this as I currently can not lock the vehicle.
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    degansdegans Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my 2001 VW. I understand that it is either a oxygen sensor or temperature sensor problem. Be careful, it gets worse with time.
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    euroslotheurosloth Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 99 evan camper and the captains chair (passenger side) will not swivel around?? The lever which releases the peg will not budge...any ideas???
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    franktalkfranktalk Member Posts: 2
    any ideas? excessive hydrocarbons, standard 2.4, mine 2.86. new catalytic converter, plugs, wires, rotor, cap. 145, 110, 140, 140, 140 compression. rings fine, no head gasget problem. I hear a vacuum sound coming from around or under the intake manifold. An online vw enthusiast said intake manifold failure is common @ 150k miles. My car has 149k miles. He stated plastic intake manifold? Anyone heard of this. Thanks for any advice.
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    euroslotheurosloth Member Posts: 2
    I just replaced the gas struts which hold up the stove and sink lid and now it rattles like mad when it's down...any ideas??
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    shamosshamos Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, for the tip. It turned out to be a coolant temperature sensor that was behaving intermittently. The engine light had come on a couple of times and it had turned off on its own, and so it seemed unrelated, but a competent mechanic said he was sure it was the sensor causing the start problem, and thus far, he seems to have been correct.
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    arn4arn4 Member Posts: 1
    I am a 93 eurovan owner with power lock problems. This is a common quirk with these vehicles. There is an explanation at a website called gowesty.com/powerdoorlocks. The fix is fairly simple;it requires replacing one or both of the master actuators in either the driver-side or passenger doors. The problem is finding the part. As you can imagine VW dealers will oblidge you in your search; however, at a premium (as much as $100) for one.
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    hangaralf1hangaralf1 Member Posts: 107
    there is a catalog called "the parts place". i don't have their number and they don't seem to be on the internet. i don't have a volkswagen anymore and the only reason i get the catalog is to buy parts for my in-laws vw's (for christmas presents and whatnot). i don't have the catalog because i'm always giving them out to other people w/ vws. they buy old vws and piece part them out. you can buy new or used. the catalog is an entertaining as well as educational piece of literature. I think they sell stuff for vanagons, eurovans as well as bugs, golf/jettas passats and even some audi. If i get a hold of another catalog, i'll let you know. but you can get your used replacement rims, armrests, grills, and various other stuff there. good luck
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    hangaralf1hangaralf1 Member Posts: 107
    THe parts place is on the internet and its called partsplaceinc.com

    good luck.
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    shamosshamos Member Posts: 3
    It has only been a month since I thought the problem had been fixed, when I had a somewhat different manifestation of the problem. While up at lake Tahoe area (temperatures in the negative teens), my 2002 Eurovan dropped its engine temperature from operating (190F) to about 130F. It would only get slightly warmer when the engine was laboring (going uphill). at the same ime the car heater was luke warm. A day after the first observation of this event the check engine light went on. After returning home the van recovered from this problem. I checked the code and it was "cooling system malfunction". A few days later the check engine light went off, too. My mechanic is baffled and is looking for more clues before he takes it in. Have you had similar problems? I am looking for any clues.

    Thanks.
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    markoosmarkoos Member Posts: 1
    i too have a 93 ev gl that is tough to start. iM new to vw's. it has 119,xxx and has not been too well maintained from 90k or so.for the last year or so it may have been driven 1 or 2 times a week with no maintenance. it would die coming to a stop, however an o-ring vaccum seal seemed to end that $50 later. most of the time, warm mostly, i have to press the gas to hold rpms up to 1500 or 2000, then slide it in gear with my fingers crossed. say what does the GL model denote anyway? i wish it would start like a good van should . ANY CLUES ANY ONE?
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    tburt1tburt1 Member Posts: 1
    Try gowesty.com Great people great parts. Better than original. And their in CA to boot.
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    vwman2vwman2 Member Posts: 2
    well first the heater switch melted so i removed it then tried to start the van now it dont start and it just blows the number 15 fuse which is the engine electronics pls any help is help rite now thanks
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    piffpiff Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking for any info on towing with this van.Pro's con's. What you are towing and how much weight. Right now we tow a pop-up and want to set up to a bigger camper.Thanks
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    franktalkfranktalk Member Posts: 2
    these guages work only sporadically. any ideas. thanks.
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    convertiblevwconvertiblevw Member Posts: 1
    I would just like to let anyone know, who may be having problems with their shifter button getting stuck....Our 2000 eurovan was doing the same thing and after a few months of having to do all kinds of little "tricks" to get my van out of gear I finally complained to my husband (who never drives it) and he fixed it! It had nothing to do with the transmission, or the shifter but instead, the brake pedal. The pedal was not making good contact with the censor that allows you to shift and so he cleaned it and it works great now. Hope I helped!!!
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    roquedroqued Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out how to import a new multivan from Germany? I'm interested...

    http://www.vwn.de/multivan/galerie.html
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    mcook2mcook2 Member Posts: 1
    My 1995 eurovan has 109,000 miles. Since 86,000 miles I have been getting the same group of fault codes: 00519 (intake manifold pressure sender -G71), 00537 (Lambda control value above upper control limit),and 00758 (secondary air system faulty). VW dealers have fixed many things including a new computer (ECM), many vacuume hoses, wire shelds, throttle position sensors...over three thousand $$$$$ so far. Now the dealer wants to replace the manifold and gasket - over $1200.00. I'm trying to find out what could be giving the same codes over and over? After each of the repairs, the vehicle runs OK for about 1000 to 2000 miles without any problems then the "check engine" light comes on and the codes are there. VW just wants to send me to a dealer to keep on replacing parts - I, at one point, had the old ECM put back into the vehicle and it ran just fine which tells me it was not the problem. Is anyone else having any similar problems?? Any suggestions?? Anyone know where I can find a VW dealer who sells and works on Eurovans in the Pittsburgh, PA area? Thanks.
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    hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    My 1976 VW Bus convinced me that I would NEVER buy another Volkswagen. A friend had worse luck than me: 5 Volkswagens and all were constantly needing expensive maintenance or repairs. :sick:
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    rlalonsorlalonso Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 1995 Euro/camper van. The check engine light is always on and the 2 codes are for the oxygen sensor and secondary air. Both the VW dealer and the VW repair specialists told me that neither one will effect the engines performance and that it would be approx. $800 to fix or replace them. Do you know what they re for and have you had ony luck fixcing yours?
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    99eurocamper99eurocamper Member Posts: 5
    Tried it John...did not work. Looks like I have to wire my radio & accessories direct to bypass the ign. switch. Thanks :mad:
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    99eurocamper99eurocamper Member Posts: 5
    Parking brake trick no work...guess I have to wire the radio & accessories direct to bypass the ign. switch! Thanks anyway.... :mad:
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    paysleypaysley Member Posts: 1
    okay, my husband and my dad spent several hours and several trips to the parts store trying to change the brakes on our 2002 eurovan...could not figure out the tool to remove caliper...we have the brake pads...and are ready to go...and what you are saying is there are no special tools? you just pound the steel pins out ofthe caliper? and then replace them? thanks for your help...paysley
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    newsun3newsun3 Member Posts: 1
    hi--i work at a bodyshop in florida, we have a 1999 vw eurovan that needs a front bumper, however we can not find one. if anybody can help out it would be outstanding!! also does anyone know if a 2000 frt bumper will fit the 1999? thanks everyone.
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    domfdomf Member Posts: 4
    I've been looking for a 3-person middle seat for a 2002 EV. In talking with the dealer, they say they are available however they are only sold in parts (no completed seat).

    Does anyone known where a complete seat might be found?

    Thanks,
    DF
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    domfdomf Member Posts: 4
    I also have a 2002 EV and started out with a small pop-up approx 1800 lbs with no issues in towing or making any type of grade climb. We've upgraded to a 2002 Shamrock 18' Trailer with a dry weight of 2850 lbs. / 3500-3600 lbs fully loaded.

    VW manual states that it has a towing cap. of 4500 lbs however I would not try it.

    On straight away it will do 60-75 no problems. It does require a drop down to third on most hills and sometimes 2nd. Worst hill that I've come across to date is the grade from Bishop, Ca. to Mammoth Lakes, Ca. were it dropped down to 1st gear with a speed of 15mph.

    Also recommend adding air bags to rear suspension (about $70 - http://www.performancecenter.com/autoparts/air_lift/air_suspension_systems/alf60- 789.html) along with a weight distribution system on towing setup.
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    domfdomf Member Posts: 4
    Autozone has the tool that you need to push the pistons in. They lend these out for a $40 deposit or you can keep it for $40.00. Worth the money considering the cost that the dealer charges for doing the job. Takes about an hour to replace both front and rear.

    Make sure not to push pistons in to quickly as fuild may over flow from master cylinder resevoir.

    DF
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    domfdomf Member Posts: 4
    Had a similar issue when we first bought ours. Does it happen with all of your keys or just one?

    Our problem was that the keys needed to be reprogramed. If this is the case you will need bring it to the dealer for reprogramming. Also remember to bring all of the keys since they will all have to be reporgrammed.

    DF
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    keumnamkeumnam Member Posts: 18
    Not for me. I am the happy owner of a 1971 camper bus and I absolutely love that thing. Yes, there is user maintenance but none of it is rocket science nor time consuming. Heck. a engine is yanked in 45 minutes if needed.

    The bus is a labor of love, it is more than just transportation. I have so much fun driving it and feel so free...so unrushed....traveling along in it.

    And it is downright sexy. My wife, who is Korean, also loves it. And yes, we broke it in.
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    mike148mike148 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with an 01. It is the ignition switch. When the Van is running you can hold the switch full on and the lights and everything else will come back on. My Dealership replaced it at no charge...They had the same problem with the Jetta...
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