I found an auction site that let me see sale results. I was amazed at how low some of the prices were for domestic sedans. I know you guys have said this before but I guess I needed the numbers in front of me to believe them. Is this the kind of stuff you're seeing?
'01 Buick Park Avenue, 8K, loaded, $23200 '00 Buick Regal, 20K, $13200 '01 Monte Carlo, 19K, $14000 '01 Seville, 13K, $31300 '01 Pontiac Grand Prix, 14K, $15600 This one shocked me - '01 Olds Aurora, 18K, $20300. It was the only Aurora over $20K. All others were in the 19's. All had less than 20k miles. This car is $32-38K on the lots today.
These were a few of hundreds on the list. But although I knew domestic sedan prices take a hit during the first year or two, I didn't think the hit was this big.
I figured a new one would be a better deal in that case, assuming I could still find a 2001 (the 2002s are out), but it really more than I want to pay, so I guess I'm back to looking for a '99. I almost had the Explorer sold, but the lady couldn't get the financing or make the payments. I think the latter.
Not sure what you mean by paintwork..but I have had a minor nick or two fixed....on side panel and on the trunk over the years...by the dealer...car is located in NJ just outside Manhattan..
And did not provide the comfort of the Chevys in addition to the greater depreciation. As long as American cars are popular as fleet, rentals, etc. they will suffer greater depreciation. Hard to know which American car was abused by someone who did not own it as compared to many brands that very rarely get used as rentals.
I am 30 months into a 48 month lease thru American Honda Finance on a 99Honda CRV LX Auto 4WD black 19,500 miles excellent condition no add ons No problems. I would like to trade it in on a new lease . The pay off is $15249.00 . I am considering trading up to a Ford truck F150 or Ranger.But am open to other brands. Do you think I will be able to get pay off?
I just signed for a 01 civic ex automatic, for our third vehicle, in titanium white(beige). My question is this, until delivery on saturday the dealer will still let my wife change color to :
plum- in low light it looks like brown to me, green, med blue.
Are there any of these colors that I should stay away from from a resale point of view?
When I was looking for a small car my first choice was a plum 2001 Honda Civic EX 5-speed, but I couldn't find one and I looked as far as Seattle (I live in Alaska). Oh well, I love my tornado red 2001 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T.......I bet that color is a dog too. It sure helps me collect the speeding tickets.
Bill, I have the 99 CRV 4wd blk, auto 19500 miles no paint work Columbus Ohio. Want to trade up . Should I be able to get close to pay off 15249.00 if I go thru a Honda dealership? or does the brand/dealership matter? The CRV just does not have the towing capabilty I need. 30 months into 48 month Lease.
It's important to look at all aspects of the deal and not to just concentrate on the trade value.
That being said, If it's clean (No paintwork... damage..etc..) and an LX, you're going to be about $500-750 upside down, which, 18 months befgore lease end ain't bad at all!
If it's an EX.. then I think It's worth $15,500-16K or so.
I have been to that auction a few times this year....
"if" ... the vehicle is clean and -jam up- as you think --- these CRV's are hot little items ...it's a 4x4 and a LX -- these little buggers are doing in and around $15,000ish ...---- So , if you are wanting to trade..I would think-- now is the time .....
I am planning on hitting the dealerships again tomorrow to continue my search for a new car. I've looked at the TL Type S, I30t and Maxima SE (as you guys are probably aware as I've already bugged you enough) I'm still trying to figure out the pricing on these cars and future values too. I know that I can get around $4k off on a new Max SE (MSRP 30,400, selling 26,400), probably get a I30t MSRP of 33,500 for around 30,500 and the TL-S, well the best I've done around here is 30,500. Anyway, could you guys tell me what you think these cars, if say 2 years old, would be worth if each had 30,000 miles on them: 1999 Maxima SE (loaded), 1999 I30t, and 2000 TL (non-navi). I'm using a 2000 TL because the Type S is a 2002.
What is your opinion of my car, trade in and retail values? I have a 98 Civic EX coupe, 5 spd, am/fm/cd, about 39,000 miles, silver. It's clean inside. I have had some minor repair work done on the bumpers and driver side mirror. Plus, I'm in Columbus, OH. Thanks for your help!
.......Good choices all of them ...let me give you an idea, of what 2 yr old vehicles of these models are doing now.....
the TL ..S is new ..and very hot right now, so I will use a (30,000 mile) TL ----- a 2yr old TL..clean ..tires are newish..body is all there..needs nothing, but a new owner.....1999's are doing in the $20,000/21,000 ish++ #.....I30t's are in the low $18,000 ish #..no biggie here......Maxima SE's with all the stuff will do $16500+ still strong ..all things considered ....
At this point..I think it's a point of ..what you like.....the Acura's are going to do super for a long while....and as silly as this is ..checking all the #'s ...the Maxima's are doing just fine....
So, my stupid opinion would be ....Acura/Maxima ------ But, get out and drive them for a afternoon, and see what you think.....How about a Daweou....?
Remember what I always say......buy and drive what you like...
........Bill is dead on this vehicle ....and even though it's a handshaker...it would probably do $8500 + at the Columbus auction...if it is nice ..clean ..and needs nothing...
Last night, I started thinking about a '97 or '98 LS400 as an alternative to the '99 Acura RL since they seem to be a bit easier to find. Also, they have the bigger V8 engine, but the gas mileage is about the same as the V6 in the RL, and the LS400 is a lot faster. RWD really isn't an issue since I have the Honda to drive during the winter.
How do they do at the auctions, and what do you think of them? I know Terry likes the RLs.
I know you guys frown upon cars w/ salvage titles, but here is a deal: this one body shop is selling '00 Civic EX Coupe 5sp w/ 3K miles and 00' Civic SI also w/ 3K miles. The damage is not that great (the EX can be lot driven).
What would be a good price for any one of these vehicles? The resale is not really an issue, since there is quite a market in Chicago area for such cars.
Now you're talking. One of the better choices you can make, even if personally I don't like LS400s very much (I'd go with a Jag or a BMW.. they are too "sof" for my personal tastes..)
However.
It is one hell of a well-made and solid car and they hold their values uite well long-term. Also, with the new LS430 out, there's a lot of them out there and there's a bit of an oversupply,so prices have come down uite a bit recently.
Now, there's also a big difference between a 97 and a 98 pricewise and equipmentwise. The 98 is available with Xenon lights and Navigation. Also, the car itself adds a 290HP engine with VVT-i (Pretty slick variable valve timing) upgrading the 265hp engine, and a 5-speed versus a 4-speed automatic. 25hp May not sound like much, but the car is a tad more fuel efficient and from the seat-of-the-pants standpoiont, it feels much quicker. Also, the front end looks a lot better.
So where they be at... hmmm...
LSs vary a lot going by color and miles. Diamond White Pearl with Ivory Leather (beige) is the hot setup. Green, that nasty dark red and especially Antique Bronze are bad colors.
Anythign without a Moonroof gets punished badly. I'd say to also go for Nakamichi stereo, especially on a 97 as those have a weak base stereo.
Also, on a 97, expectto pay a little more if it's a "Coach" model. They have Coach leather upholstery (A la the Wallet and Pocketbook and Belt people) , different wheels...umm...badges... some more wood I think... umm... not much really
So let's say we went a 97 with miles in the 40Ks and a 98 with miles in the Low 40Ks...
The 97 is worth, wholesale, $24-25,000 at the auction. If it's Lexus Certified, expect that the dealer has another $1,000-1,500 in costs in it. You do get a 3-year, 100K mile total vehicle mile warranty with the car though. These were doing $30K last summer/fall.
Oh, make sure that 97 has heated seats and TRAC for use in Ohio!
A 98 is going to do somewhere in the neighborhood of $29-30K or so at auction. But they can swing a bit too. If it's Pearl White with NAVI, 20k on the clock.. and is drp-dead perfect.... $33K isnt out of line. But a nice Black one (A good color where you live) with 40K or so on the clock is going to be a $29-30K car if clean. Less down here tho... Floridians do not like Black! In fact, if you want a Black/Black one, it may pay to shop here.
Have been shopping sedans and looked at LS's. Actually, the 97, 98 variety. Only one Lexus dealer here in KC so they have a bit of a fix on prices. 97 with 46K miles that was in "good" (but it is a 97) was stickered at 34000. But today we can let it go for 31K. The 98's were stickered at $40K. Did not even talk further price. But I agree, in addition to better engine etc. they also got a 5spd auto in 98. If I could find a lower mile 98 in the $30-32K range I would seriously consider it. Just my 2 cents from the retail buyer end.
Thanks. That's great information. If I were just going for looks, a BMW or a Jag would make sense, but I want to get 200k miles out of whatever I buy. I love the BMW 7 series, but I'd probably have to get a '95 or so to be around that $30k mark, and I hear they are very expensive to maintain, not to mention the high cost of insurance. Jags don't have a great reputation for reliability, so I guess I'll stick with Acura or Lexus. What would a black/black '98 LS400 go for down there?
The EX would cost me FIXED hair under $10K (including TTL). So I guess it would fall within 30% off wholesale...
As far as SI's go - why the heck are they so expensive??? There was one (exactly like the one in the body shop - black w/ 3K miles) sold couple days ago at Honda dealer for $18K!!! That's a lot of money for Civic (even if it has 160HP).
Frankly, the only reason I am considering the EX is the fact that I drive ~25K miles a year.
........Since you are looking at the Lexus line....you may want to consider..the GS's.....1998's with super low miles and ..all.. the stuff.. are starting to run on the block for a $26,000 ish #....and I feel, if you did a little searching - and some good negotiation ...they can be bought for a $28,000 ish figure with some factory warranty...
These are great vehicles...and will run forever....and besides- they look good......
Hey...more stuff for you to ponder.......and since you are in the pondering state ...----- Don't forget the Lincoln LS....2000's can be had for $28,000 ish on the retail side --- lot's of vehicle -- lot's of fun.....a barnburner in a business suite....Bimmers are a little shy around that V8...
Thanks for the thoughts. I am still pondering, and I have pondered the GS. I just can't get excited about the way they look. Granted, the LS400 and the RL don't cause tons of excitement, but to me, something about the looks of the GS just isn't quite right. Kind of like the current Avalon. The Lincoln LS is a bit smaller than I wanted, and they haven't been around long enough to tell if they will run for 200k miles without much trouble.....That is a very tempting price though. I'll keep pondering. Thanks for the info.
Hey Bill--Once again, I have a question for you. My wife just had a front end collision in our camry, a 2000 lev6, the only option was the alloy wheels I think. The odometer had just flipped to 30,000 miles. Thank God, she was fine, especially as she wasn't wearing her seatbelt, and the airbags didn't deploy. Because nothing happened to the interior, the interior looks fine, but the exterior needs, according to the dealer that's going to fix it, are going to cost about 10,200.00. Insurance said to go ahead and fix it. My thought is this, as I know that my wife won't ever want to drive it again, and I'm not too keen on how safe it is (shouldn't airbags always deploy in a front end collision if you're going about 25-30 mph), we're probably going to sell it as soon as we get it back. What do you think the car is worth, as I'm going to disclose the damage to whomever decides to purchase it. I'm thinking I might do better financially if I could get the insurance company to declare the car as totalled and just give me the cash for it, but this seems to be wishful thinking, as they insist that 75% of the value of the car had to be damaged or it had to have frame damage to pay out the full amount on its retail value--the car, up until the accident, was truly immaculate, interior looked new, garaged until this past January so the paint looked great. White with some sort of a brown cloth interior. Thanks-Shehzad
I just gotta ask. What the heck happened to it that its $10,500 in repairs and DIDN'T hurt the frame??? WOW!! We're talking about a Honda here, not a Jag (threw that in for you, Bill).
glad to hear she was ok, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I sold my Explorer today - $14,999. I was happy. The guy saw it on autotrader Friday night, we played phone tag Saturday, he drove it Sunday night and said he wanted it, and bought it today. Now the search for its replacement begins. I looked at the prices on Autotrader today, and I see why he was so anxious to buy. The prices people was asking were crazy. $1-$2k more for Explorers with 20k more miles! I think they will have them for a while. I only got one call in a week when I had mine priced at $15,499. When I lowered my price to $14,999 I started getting about 1 call ever other day. 2 weeks later, it sold. No wonder the guy didn't even negotiate.
Bill,
I'll have to take your word on the '98 Jag, but I have first hand experience on Hondas and Toyatas. Edmunds doesn't seem to have any reliability info on the '98 Jags. Carpoint doesn't have any info either, but the '97 looks very reliable. Hmmm, I may have to consider other options. Are they known for going 200k miles without major problems? They do seem to have small trunks, and not a lot of front seat head room.
First, glad your wife is OK! That's the important thing.
Second... go after them to total it. I hate to say it, but it sounds like it might be an at-fault accident to me. In that case there's no diminshed value claim if I am correct.
Also, I'm with qb here.. How in the HELL can you do $10,500 in damage to a Camry and not affect the frame?
Garbage. It's a unibody car. It's got to have frame damage. Also, that car has suffered stresses in that accident that no longer make it as safe as an unhit car. It belongs in a junkyard. Dont settle or sign anything. Tell them that you want it totalled. Failing that, have your lawyer send em a letter. They will usually just total the thing to get you off their back.
That being said, its' value is going to be hit by this pretty badly... expect $2K or better I'm afraid
Also, as far as the airbags go... depends on the angle of the hit and a few other factors I think...
I've never had any trouble selling cars that I've owned, because I always keep them very clean. I park way out to avoid dings, etc. Also, I only sell cars myself that I'm confident are in good condition. If they are having any problems, I trade them. Here are a couple examples:
'79 Chevette - bought from my Dad for $3k in 1980, sold 4 years later to a guy at work with 60k miles for $2600. The car was I think $5k new, and a piece of crap, but it looked good, and ran well at the time. :-)
'88 Honda Accord - bought new for $13,400, sold 9 years later with 104k miles and the AC not working for $3500, again, to a guy at work. Dealer offered me $2600, but I already had a buyer when I went to the dealership.
And of course my Explorer. Sticker was $30k, I bought it on the A-Plan for $26k. Even the Acura dealer who offered me $11k said it was the nicest trade-in he'd ever seen.
I even did well on my last beater/winter car which I traded. Bought a '90 Geo Prizm for $2800, traded it in 15 months and 20k miles later for $2000 toward a '96 Avalon. And that was real money. Even the finance lady said she was surprised they sold me the car for what they did. I got up to walk over $300, and it was a two hour drive, so they knew I wasn't coming back. If they had just said "this is what we have in the car, and this is what we need to make", they could have had that $300, but they were playing games, so I didn't budge. I would have no trouble dealing with someone like you, and I think dealers have the right to make money on a deal, otherwise, why be in business, but the used car salesmen who play the games generally don't make much money on me.
Anyway, thanks. I was pleased with the sale. I had turned down an offer of $14k a few days sooner. I just had a feeling I could do better from the responses I was getting from people who looked at the truck. I'll look at the Jags - I really haven't ruled anything out at this point.
.......No such thing as a bad sale......Congrat's ..
I have alway's been recommending.. when you advertise a vehicle ....try to be the lowest in the papers.....people will try to haggle ..maybe a little, but they already know by looking at all the other ads ...that this could go quickly...and in this case ----- it did...
Remember --- you can be a lion...and you can be a tiger ....---- but never be a pig....l.....o......l.......
How do you mean that Jaguar is every bit as reliable as Lexus or Acura? Even if you can keep the Jaguar running for 200k miles, I thought doing so would cost a lot more that keeping a Lexus or Acura running that long. This is not to say that the Jag isn't worth it, just asking if by reliable you mean that it runs as long as Lexus/Acura, or that it costs the same to keep running as Lexus/Acura?
And while we are on the Jaguar topic, do you have any feeling about the maintenance and repairs on the new X-Type? The car itself is certainly priced competitively but... what about the service and repairs, particularly after 50000 miles? (Not that I'm seriously looking, but I'm curious!)
Thanks for the advice. You're right about fault--my wife rear ended a minivan--completely her fault--although I've always hated sport utes, I'm thinking I'm going to get her a land cruiser or Escalade next, and banish her from driving any of the other cars--something, anything, big. I'll see what I can do to get them to total it, although the adjuster seemed very, very adamant about not wanting to pay more than the damaged amount. I asked her, if the insurance company could, as they're insisting that the car is going to be as good as new, just give me the money and sell the car on their own, but she just laughed in my ear and said if I wanted to sell it, I'm on my own. The entire front end was smashed--and I never really thought about the frame damage aspect. This has me thinking? Do repair shops (I'm getting it done at koons toyota --a pretty major dealership) and insurance companies ever stretch the truth, and state that no frame damage has occurred when in actuality it has? I don't see how they would benefit from this, as it would open them up to major lawsuits later, if God forbid, there were another accident and resulting injury in the same car. Forgive me, as my mechanical knowledge about automobiles is pretty much zero, if a car is unibody, what exactl does this mean, and are there any outward signs that can allow me, as an ignorant consumer, to tell if frame damage has occurred. Thank you once again for all your help, and for your earlier advice on the miata driven by my nephew. I've got it listed on ebay right now in fact--I just hope it makes reserve.
I can prove it to you! Next time you're in Orlando (IIRC youre in South FL, right?) I'll throw you the keys to my 95 Vanden Plas with 125K on it
I just drove it to and from Ontario without trouble. I will say this with certainty. I would trust a Jaguar MORE than I would an Acura or a Lexus. In fact, I bought a 98 LS400 (They are awesome cars but I absolutely hate them) and it had more trouble in the year or so that I had it than this thing has had in almost 6 years! The newer Jaguars are outstanding. Real simple:
As of 1-99: J.D. Power and Associates rates Jaguar in a tie for 1st place for initial quality. (This is ahead of Lexus, Acura, Nissan, Honda, Infiniti and Toyota..well... we may have been tied with Lexus come to think of it).
As far as maintinence on the newer cars... Service costs are high. But price a service on a Lexus or Acura at the dealer. Not a lot cheaper and the Jag has longer major service intervals (100K) than a Lexus (50-60K) so your overall costs may be the same. I pay $600 or so for a Major service (30K) on the 95 and 97.
I have owned 2 modern Jags (95+) for a longish period of time. The 95 BDP since new and a TItanium/Nimbus (Special order) 1998 XJR that I leased for 2 years in November of 1997. I have put 125K on the 95, and it's broken the cupholder, the air/con outlets in the center of the dash and once in a while the up/down steering column tilt motor acts up. Also, the car has a noisy timing chain tensioner. I never did get that fixed when they had a campaign on the 95-96s for it.
But that's it in 125,000 very hard miles. Also It's been smashed a few times and carjacked once.
The 98 XJR never broke. Well... I did get a check engine light once, but I think that was due to a loose gas cap. It used 18" P-Zero Z-Rated Pirellis so I went through quite a few tires. At lease end I had 38K on it and turned it in as it had been hit by a drunk and repaired. Shame because the buyout was cheap...
So they use Pirellis so I go through tires a lot... and they're heavy so they eat brakes.
But they are such amazingly good cars, and such a damn good value for the money, that they are a very smart choice. Cons? Small dealer network, small trunk and interior room is tight, but an XJ8L or Vanden Plas with a 4.9" Stretch cures that.
As far as the X-Type goes.. I bet it's at least as reliable as any of the competition. Oh, and new Jags have 4yr/50K of scheduled maintinence included at NC.
Got a digital camera? I wanna see a pic here. $10,500 is damn near 75% of the value of that car if we're talking wholesale not fair market value. Car's probably worth something like $13,500 or so wholesale... $16-17k retail... SO we're over 50%. I think you could sure as hell make a case for totalling it. Terry what think you?
A Unibody car is where the frame of the car is integrated into the body, sort of like a Turtle. Almost allmodern cars are unibody. Older cars used to be Body on Frame designs where the body shellwas bolted to a cast and tempered separate Iron frame. Basically, you can take a '57 Chevy and smash the left front of the car right where the driver's door and front fender meet and repair it, and if done right all will be well as long as that Iron frame is OK.
However, do it to a modern unibody car, and you're causing substantial structural damage. So I dont see how this car does not have structural damage. Now, it all depends on what kind of structural damage we're talking about here. A dent on the rear 1/4 panel (Fender) is technically structural damage. However it's not the same as a crushed lower frame rail.
Personally I'd say that the body shop ought to be on your side, even though they would want a job like that. Still, see what you can do to get it totalled.. If you need advice, gimme a shout. I'm always at 407-492-4854
Oh, good luck on the Miata! eBay can surprise you at times!
Comments
'01 Buick Park Avenue, 8K, loaded, $23200
'00 Buick Regal, 20K, $13200
'01 Monte Carlo, 19K, $14000
'01 Seville, 13K, $31300
'01 Pontiac Grand Prix, 14K, $15600
This one shocked me -
'01 Olds Aurora, 18K, $20300. It was the only Aurora over $20K. All others were in the 19's. All had less than 20k miles. This car is $32-38K on the lots today.
These were a few of hundreds on the list. But although I knew domestic sedan prices take a hit during the first year or two, I didn't think the hit was this big.
Is this what y'all see at the auctions from GM?
Old 750s scare the hell out of me. They're as bad as old Jaguar Series 3 XJ6s or old Rolls Royces.
You did real well for your customer, and he did well by trading out of it.
Bill
Quentin
Any paintwork on the car? Also, where is it?
TIA!
Bill
Yup! Those look pretty accurate to me.
GM Sedans, particularly the expensive ones, get hit very very hard.
Bill
Worth a shot, right?
Bill
Quentin
Could you post the address please?
Thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
www.idaa.com
I imagine it will get password protected eventually.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
See, in FL a Black car like that isnt a good color, in Northern NJ (Im from Tenafly originally) it is a very good color.
If it hasnt had repainted panels.. expect about $26-27K trade, and somewhere around $30-31K retail.
Bill
It's possible... but.. CRVs vary a bit.
Any paintwork on it? And... Where in the country are you???
It makes a difference!
Bill
plum- in low light it looks like brown to me,
green,
med blue.
Are there any of these colors that I should stay away from from a resale point of view?
(I'm in minnesota)
Thanks.
Plum very bad.
Green is fair
Blue is just OK.
Bill
I think the other colors are a tossup so buy what you like!
Want to trade up . Should I be able to get close to pay off 15249.00 if I go thru a Honda dealership? or does the brand/dealership matter?
The CRV just does not have the towing capabilty I need.
30 months into 48 month Lease.
It's important to look at all aspects of the deal and not to just concentrate on the trade value.
That being said, If it's clean (No paintwork... damage..etc..) and an LX, you're going to be about $500-750 upside down, which, 18 months befgore lease end ain't bad at all!
If it's an EX.. then I think It's worth $15,500-16K or so.
Hope this helps!
Bill
I have been to that auction a few times this year....
"if" ... the vehicle is clean and -jam up- as you think --- these CRV's are hot little items ...it's a 4x4 and a LX -- these little buggers are doing in and around $15,000ish ...---- So , if you are wanting to trade..I would think-- now is the time .....
Terry.
Again thanks for all your help!!!!!!
What is your opinion of my car, trade in and retail values? I have a 98 Civic EX coupe, 5 spd, am/fm/cd, about 39,000 miles, silver. It's clean inside. I have had some minor repair work done on the bumpers and driver side mirror. Plus, I'm in Columbus, OH. Thanks for your help!
Matt
the TL ..S is new ..and very hot right now, so I will use a (30,000 mile) TL ----- a 2yr old TL..clean ..tires are newish..body is all there..needs nothing, but a new owner.....1999's are doing in the $20,000/21,000 ish++ #.....I30t's are in the low $18,000 ish #..no biggie here......Maxima SE's with all the stuff will do $16500+ still strong ..all things considered ....
At this point..I think it's a point of ..what you like.....the Acura's are going to do super for a long while....and as silly as this is ..checking all the #'s ...the Maxima's are doing just fine....
So, my stupid opinion would be ....Acura/Maxima ------ But, get out and drive them for a afternoon, and see what you think.....How about a Daweou....?
Remember what I always say......buy and drive what you like...
Terry.
Good color, good car, good miles...
Ought to be worth about $8,500 or so trade-In, perhaps a little more...
Retail hits me at about $10,500-11,000 or so. This assumes that it's really nice. If the bumpers obviously look repainted... deduct about $500 or so.
Hope this helps!
Bill
Terry.
Last night, I started thinking about a '97 or '98 LS400 as an alternative to the '99 Acura RL since they seem to be a bit easier to find. Also, they have the bigger V8 engine, but the gas mileage is about the same as the V6 in the RL, and the LS400 is a lot faster. RWD really isn't an issue since I have the Honda to drive during the winter.
How do they do at the auctions, and what do you think of them? I know Terry likes the RLs.
Thanks,
Quentin
this one body shop is selling '00 Civic EX Coupe 5sp w/ 3K miles and
00' Civic SI also w/ 3K miles. The damage is not that great (the EX can be lot driven).
What would be a good price for any one of these vehicles? The resale is not
really an issue, since there is quite a market in Chicago area for such cars.
Thanks
However.
It is one hell of a well-made and solid car and they hold their values uite well long-term. Also, with the new LS430 out, there's a lot of them out there and there's a bit of an oversupply,so prices have come down uite a bit recently.
Now, there's also a big difference between a 97 and a 98 pricewise and equipmentwise. The 98 is available with Xenon lights and Navigation. Also, the car itself adds a 290HP engine with VVT-i (Pretty slick variable valve timing) upgrading the 265hp engine, and a 5-speed versus a 4-speed automatic. 25hp May not sound like much, but the car is a tad more fuel efficient and from the seat-of-the-pants standpoiont, it feels much quicker. Also, the front end looks a lot better.
So where they be at... hmmm...
LSs vary a lot going by color and miles. Diamond White Pearl with Ivory Leather (beige) is the hot setup. Green, that nasty dark red and especially Antique Bronze are bad colors.
Anythign without a Moonroof gets punished badly. I'd say to also go for Nakamichi stereo, especially on a 97 as those have a weak base stereo.
Also, on a 97, expectto pay a little more if it's a "Coach" model. They have Coach leather upholstery (A la the Wallet and Pocketbook and Belt people) , different wheels...umm...badges... some more wood I think... umm... not much really
So let's say we went a 97 with miles in the 40Ks and a 98 with miles in the Low 40Ks...
The 97 is worth, wholesale, $24-25,000 at the auction. If it's Lexus Certified, expect that the dealer has another $1,000-1,500 in costs in it. You do get a 3-year, 100K mile total vehicle mile warranty with the car though. These were doing $30K last summer/fall.
Oh, make sure that 97 has heated seats and TRAC for use in Ohio!
A 98 is going to do somewhere in the neighborhood of $29-30K or so at auction. But they can swing a bit too. If it's Pearl White with NAVI, 20k on the clock.. and is drp-dead perfect.... $33K isnt out of line. But a nice Black one (A good color where you live) with 40K or so on the clock is going to be a $29-30K car if clean. Less down here tho... Floridians do not like Black! In fact, if you want a Black/Black one, it may pay to shop here.
Hope this helps!
Bill
And you'll find they will want more than that for it and it'll be worth, to quote tony soprano, "Oogotz" whenfixed.
Civics do not take accident damage well...
PASS!
Better off with a high-mile 98 if that's your budget... Only Body SHops make $$ on cars like this.
Bill
If I could find a lower mile 98 in the $30-32K range I would seriously consider it.
Just my 2 cents from the retail buyer end.
Thanks. That's great information. If I were just going for looks, a BMW or a Jag would make sense, but I want to get 200k miles out of whatever I buy. I love the BMW 7 series, but I'd probably have to get a '95 or so to be around that $30k mark, and I hear they are very expensive to maintain, not to mention the high cost of insurance. Jags don't have a great reputation for reliability, so I guess I'll stick with Acura or Lexus. What would a black/black '98 LS400 go for down there?
Thanks,
Quentin
within 30% off wholesale...
As far as SI's go - why the heck are they so expensive??? There was one (exactly like the one in the body shop - black w/ 3K miles) sold couple days ago at Honda dealer for $18K!!!
That's a lot of money for Civic (even if it has 160HP).
Frankly, the only reason I am considering the EX is the fact that I drive ~25K miles a year.
These are great vehicles...and will run forever....and besides- they look good......
Hey...more stuff for you to ponder.......and since you are in the pondering state ...----- Don't forget the Lincoln LS....2000's can be had for $28,000 ish on the retail side --- lot's of vehicle -- lot's of fun.....a barnburner in a business suite....Bimmers are a little shy around that V8...
Terry.
Quentin
A 98 Jag is going to be every bit as reliable as a Lexus or Acura, if not more so.
Bill
glad to hear she was ok, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I sold my Explorer today - $14,999. I was happy. The guy saw it on autotrader Friday night, we played phone tag Saturday, he drove it Sunday night and said he wanted it, and bought it today. Now the search for its replacement begins.
I looked at the prices on Autotrader today, and I see why he was so anxious to buy. The prices people was asking were crazy. $1-$2k more for Explorers with 20k more miles! I think they will have them for a while. I only got one call in a week when I had mine priced at $15,499. When I lowered my price to $14,999 I started getting about 1 call ever other day. 2 weeks later, it sold. No wonder the guy didn't even negotiate.
Bill,
I'll have to take your word on the '98 Jag, but I have first hand experience on Hondas and Toyatas. Edmunds doesn't seem to have any reliability info on the '98 Jags. Carpoint doesn't have any info either, but the '97 looks very reliable. Hmmm, I may have to consider other options. Are they known for going 200k miles without major problems? They do seem to have small trunks, and not a lot of front seat head room.
Quentin
First, glad your wife is OK! That's the important thing.
Second... go after them to total it. I hate to say it, but it sounds like it might be an at-fault accident to me. In that case there's no diminshed value claim if I am correct.
Also, I'm with qb here.. How in the HELL can you do $10,500 in damage to a Camry and not affect the frame?
Garbage. It's a unibody car. It's got to have frame damage. Also, that car has suffered stresses in that accident that no longer make it as safe as an unhit car. It belongs in a junkyard. Dont settle or sign anything. Tell them that you want it totalled. Failing that, have your lawyer send em a letter. They will usually just total the thing to get you off their back.
That being said, its' value is going to be hit by this pretty badly... expect $2K or better I'm afraid
Also, as far as the airbags go... depends on the angle of the hit and a few other factors I think...
Key thing is... she's OK!
Bill
98s are much better than 87s... driving and reliability and maintinence cost wise. I'd say to at least look at them. The cars are bargains IMHO.
Jeez... You got $15K for the explorer like that? Sheesh. You wanna job???
Good job on the truck, you did very well!
Bill
I've never had any trouble selling cars that I've owned, because I always keep them very clean. I park way out to avoid dings, etc. Also, I only sell cars myself that I'm confident are in good condition. If they are having any problems, I trade them. Here are a couple examples:
'79 Chevette - bought from my Dad for $3k in 1980, sold 4 years later to a guy at work with 60k miles for $2600. The car was I think $5k new, and a piece of crap, but it looked good, and ran well at the time. :-)
'88 Honda Accord - bought new for $13,400, sold 9 years later with 104k miles and the AC not working for $3500, again, to a guy at work. Dealer offered me $2600, but I already had a buyer when I went to the dealership.
And of course my Explorer. Sticker was $30k, I bought it on the A-Plan for $26k. Even the Acura dealer who offered me $11k said it was the nicest trade-in he'd ever seen.
I even did well on my last beater/winter car which I traded. Bought a '90 Geo Prizm for $2800, traded it in 15 months and 20k miles later for $2000 toward a '96 Avalon. And that was real money. Even the finance lady said she was surprised they sold me the car for what they did. I got up to walk over $300, and it was a two hour drive, so they knew I wasn't coming back. If they had just said "this is what we have in the car, and this is what we need to make", they could have had that $300, but they were playing games, so I didn't budge. I would have no trouble dealing with someone like you, and I think dealers have the right to make money on a deal, otherwise, why be in business, but the used car salesmen who play the games generally don't make much money on me.
Anyway, thanks. I was pleased with the sale. I had turned down an offer of $14k a few days sooner. I just had a feeling I could do better from the responses I was getting from people who looked at the truck. I'll look at the Jags - I really haven't ruled anything out at this point.
Quentin
I have alway's been recommending.. when you advertise a vehicle ....try to be the lowest in the papers.....people will try to haggle ..maybe a little, but they already know by looking at all the other ads ...that this could go quickly...and in this case ----- it did...
Remember --- you can be a lion...and you can be a tiger ....---- but never be a pig....l.....o......l.......
Terry.
Terry.
And while we are on the Jaguar topic, do you have any feeling about the maintenance and repairs on the new X-Type? The car itself is certainly priced competitively but... what about the service and repairs, particularly after 50000 miles? (Not that I'm seriously looking, but I'm curious!)
I can prove it to you! Next time you're in Orlando (IIRC youre in South FL, right?) I'll throw you the keys to my 95 Vanden Plas with 125K on it
I just drove it to and from Ontario without trouble. I will say this with certainty. I would trust a Jaguar MORE than I would an Acura or a Lexus. In fact, I bought a 98 LS400 (They are awesome cars but I absolutely hate them) and it had more trouble in the year or so that I had it than this thing has had in almost 6 years! The newer Jaguars are outstanding. Real simple:
As of 1-99: J.D. Power and Associates rates Jaguar in a tie for 1st place for initial quality.
(This is ahead of Lexus, Acura, Nissan, Honda, Infiniti and Toyota..well... we may have been tied with Lexus come to think of it).
As far as maintinence on the newer cars... Service costs are high. But price a service on a Lexus or Acura at the dealer. Not a lot cheaper and the Jag has longer major service intervals (100K) than a Lexus (50-60K) so your overall costs may be the same. I pay $600 or so for a Major service (30K) on the 95 and 97.
I have owned 2 modern Jags (95+) for a longish period of time. The 95 BDP since new and a TItanium/Nimbus (Special order) 1998 XJR that I leased for 2 years in November of 1997. I have put 125K on the 95, and it's broken the cupholder, the air/con outlets in the center of the dash and once in a while the up/down steering column tilt motor acts up. Also, the car has a noisy timing chain tensioner. I never did get that fixed when they had a campaign on the 95-96s for it.
But that's it in 125,000 very hard miles. Also It's been smashed a few times and carjacked once.
The 98 XJR never broke. Well... I did get a check engine light once, but I think that was due to a loose gas cap. It used 18" P-Zero Z-Rated Pirellis so I went through quite a few tires. At lease end I had 38K on it and turned it in as it had been hit by a drunk and repaired. Shame because the buyout was cheap...
So they use Pirellis so I go through tires a lot... and they're heavy so they eat brakes.
But they are such amazingly good cars, and such a damn good value for the money, that they are a very smart choice. Cons? Small dealer network, small trunk and interior room is tight, but an XJ8L or Vanden Plas with a 4.9" Stretch cures that.
As far as the X-Type goes.. I bet it's at least as reliable as any of the competition. Oh, and new Jags have 4yr/50K of scheduled maintinence included at NC.
Bill
Got a digital camera? I wanna see a pic here. $10,500 is damn near 75% of the value of that car if we're talking wholesale not fair market value. Car's probably worth something like $13,500 or so wholesale... $16-17k retail... SO we're over 50%. I think you could sure as hell make a case for totalling it. Terry what think you?
A Unibody car is where the frame of the car is integrated into the body, sort of like a Turtle. Almost allmodern cars are unibody. Older cars used to be Body on Frame designs where the body shellwas bolted to a cast and tempered separate Iron frame. Basically, you can take a '57 Chevy and smash the left front of the car right where the driver's door and front fender meet and repair it, and if done right all will be well as long as that Iron frame is OK.
However, do it to a modern unibody car, and you're causing substantial structural damage. So I dont see how this car does not have structural damage. Now, it all depends on what kind of structural damage we're talking about here. A dent on the rear 1/4 panel (Fender) is technically structural damage. However it's not the same as a crushed lower frame rail.
Personally I'd say that the body shop ought to be on your side, even though they would want a job like that. Still, see what you can do to get it totalled.. If you need advice, gimme a shout. I'm always at 407-492-4854
Oh, good luck on the Miata! eBay can surprise you at times!
Bill