New ones, fully loaded with DVD, power everything, etc. run mid-to-high $30k's from what I've seen.
See, the warranty thing is a point that I feel we can negotiate on.
I looked around at Auto Trader, for example, and found these:
2006 G.C. SXT 28,000 miles DVD power sunroof (no power sliding doors, but that's just something my wife wants!) $16,800
2006 G.C. SXT 23,000 miles DVD (again, no power sliding doors, not a problem for me) no sunroof $17,295
So, in my opinion, $16,800 is a bit high.
Sure, the mileage is great at 16k, but...if the in-service date is anywhere within 2005, then this is the last year of the 3-year warranty.
With the 2006 for $16,800, sure the power sliding doors are missing, but...are they that big a deal? (I'll have to ask she-who-must-be-obeyed)
It's got about 8k miles left on it's factory warranty...and yes, we may use that up this year...but we won't use it up within the next 6 months, I'm sure...or even 9 months, I'd bet (taking us into 2009).
So is my warranty argument a solid one, you think?
Selling a silver 2006 Forester 2.5i X in the Seattle area. AWD, automatic, premium factory sound system w/subwoofer, professional tint, 23.5k miles. Excellent condition, no damage. Looking for a suggested private party selling price and a price to expect from a trade-in. Thanks!
I bought a van last year and the power sliding doors were a requirement. We love them. Favorite feature by far.
The doors and heavy and awkward for a child to operate. This way they just press a button. You can also open the doors as you approach, saving time getting in and out.
Plus, you use those twice per trip, getting in and getting out.
The DVD you use only occasionally, usually on long trips.
To be honest I can't remember the last movie the kids watched on our DVD, yet I've used the power doors hundreds of times since then.
Get 'em, trust me. Even if it means sacrificing the DVD, which is an easy aftermarket fix anyway.
You can also open the doors as you approach, saving time getting in and out.
Why do I picture you kids crouched next to the door as you slow down to 30 and they do a tuck in roll into the preschool parking lot.
We have the side and rear automatic doors. The side door is much more useful as it gets used everyday. I am always afraid of opening the rear door in a parking lot and hitting someone, even though it beeps.
my kids are now a little older, so I find the power doors to be of no great value. Just a very expensive component to fail at some point.
And I personally hate the power rear hatch. Unless you have an extremely tiny person using it, just seems silly to me.
The DVD built in as also, IMO, a giant waste of money. Especailly if you have more than 1 kid, since normally, they can never agree on anything! Just get them individual portable DVD players. Everyone watches what they want, probably a bigger screen, and you can use them outside of the van too.
If they are already open, you can drive off, however. :surprise:
At an auto show I hit the rear hatch button on a Hyundai Entourage and it hit some guy in the head. It reversed automatically and didn't hurt him.
stickguy: one button turns the power doors off, and they function like normal ones. So if they break, just turn them off, no big deal.
For the power hatch, I don't have that, but it would come in handy when you are approaching with something heavy in your arms. I have to place the item on the floor, open the hatch, bend down, pick it up again, etc. I think that would be useful, actually. Think about it. Every time you open the hatch, it's because you have something to put inside.
Portable DVD players are fine, and cheap, too. Vans have all sort of places to store and hide them, too.
Generally speaking minivan buyers have young kids, so these features add resale value to a used van. DVD maybe not as much, imagine what an old VHS-based tape player with a 5" screen is worth today. (Hint: zero)
At an auto show I hit the rear hatch button on a Hyundai Entourage and it hit some guy in the head. It reversed automatically and didn't hurt him
This made me laugh so hard. I did that to a salesguy once, I was looking at a Tahoe, smacked him right in the head with the rear hatch, lol. Only thing his boss said was "you aren't going home!" His co-workers said I should have hit him harder, LOL.
(no power sliding doors, but that's just something my wife wants!)
I wouldn't know a power sliding door from a lawnmower, not having a mini-van, but everyone here says they are great. More importantly, if the wife (AKA, she-who-must-be-obeyed, as both you & Rumpole put it) wants them, & you're a half-way sensible guy, you know what you must do.....
Location: Syracuse, NY Yr. Make Model: 2005 Dodge Durano SLT Body: SUV Engine: 5.7 Liter Hemi Driveline: AWD/4WD Mileage: 21,900 Color: White Major Options: Leather interior, Rear DVD player, stainless exhaust, 6 CD/MP3 player, SLT G package Condition: Interior excellent, exterior also excellent, no dings or scratches Tires: 20% worn Brakes: Front new warranty replaced rotors Other: Ins. claim in 2006. front end accident. Grill, hood and windshield damaged and replaced with oem Dodge parts Looking for Trade in value toward a 2008 Chrysler Aspen Signature series. I don't care how much the price of gas goes up.
Poughkeepsie, NY 2008 Civic EX 4dr 1.8 5 speed automatic FWD 2200 miles alabaster silver/grey cloth Condition Brand New 100% non-smoker Upgrading to a larger accord and would like to know what would be a fair trade in value for the car.
Id say the dealer will start you off with an offer of 17,000-17,500.00. Remember they then have to add service fees and probably want to "certify it" for an added cost of 750.00.
Also they want to make 1500.00 -2000.00 on the deal as profit when they sell it. It then gets near invoice price on a sparkling new 2008.
Sounds like an XT Limited. That was about a $26k vehicle when new.
The 2009s are just starting to come out, I test drove one last week. That may bring values down as off-lease 07s are traded up for 09s.
Figure about 20% less than a new one, so I'd guess around $21k. Any less and it's a bargain. Any more and I'd stick with a new one.
One caveat - the 09 turbos no longer come with a manual trans, so that may soon become a rare find. Subaru said some months they only sold 10 manual XTs in an entire month.
In other words, if you gotta have a manual, don't hesitate.
Id say the dealer will start you off with an offer of 17,000-17,500.00. Remember they then have to add service fees and probably want to "certify it" for an added cost of 750.00.
Also they want to make 1500.00 -2000.00 on the deal as profit when they sell it. It then gets near invoice price on a sparkling new 2008.
Wow, you think the dealer will offer 17.5K for this car? 18.5K is the invoice for the car.
If you are planning to buy a new vehicle soon, but are holding off for the time being, a reporter wants to talk with you. Please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information and a few words about your experience no later than Wednesday, March 19, 2008.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
We're looking to buy 1 yr old Freestyle and have found a few candidates offered at dealers around the area. From the Carfax's I've run, most are from auctions. Therefore, I want to get a good idea of what the dealer may have paid. The typically equipped vehicle we are looking at has the following specs
2007 SEL AWD color: Green 15k miles ( +- 2000) Leather int Rear Bucket seats w/ Console split 3rd row
There is a mix of some with sunroofs, rear parking sensors, etc. and some without so if any of auction details have those #'s that would be helpful as well.
Also, I asked last year and know but our trade is probably going to be the following 2002 Ford Windstar SE 71k miles Green Clth int, Dual sliding doors, Vcr, rear sensors, Side curtain airbags No dents, but a few scuffs that I'm goin gto try to buff out. Carpets surprisingly clean. Brakes, Tires both> 50%
Looking for a ballpark trade-in value for my father in laws car in Cleveland, Ohio...
1998 Ford Mustang 3.8 liter V-6 / Auto trans 46000 miles / original adult owner bright red over black cloth basic option car - power windows/locks/cruise/alloys great shape in and out, no major scratches or dings tires 60%, newer brakes NO paintwork or previous damage
This is in Austin, TX. 2005 Nissan Murano S 4Dr Crossover 3.5L V6, CVT FWD (2WD) 57K Miles Burgandy Exterior, Tan Cloth Interior Towing package, Power drivers seat and adj pedals, roof rack and cross bar Tires show very little wear, about 40k miles left Only minor dings from parking lots never any accidents, no repaints or body work Regular maintenance, but I did it myself so no paperwork Brakes still have 25% pad left (I can replace these easily if it becomes an issue).
We have had it on Craigslist and Autotrader for almost 3 weeks now with only mild interest. Thing is we are wanting to get a Prius to replace it and those are starting to disappear fast, and we want to get the color/package we want before its gone! I know we will pay MSRP on the Prius, we are fine with that.
Edmunds shows trade in at 15350, which is great. Given a tax value for it on the Prius, we would break even when compared to selling it. And if we can trade in, we wont miss our color and package we want for the Prius.
However, we owe 12250 on it, and 2000 of that we would like to use to pay off higher interest credit card (we have preapproval for 4.9% on the Prius through our credit union).
Would/can a dealer offer us 15350, and cut us a check for 2000 at sale time, and apply the rest towards the Prius?
I guess I wasn't too far off in my thinking as I had pegged 4 to 4,5 for the Windstar. I guess the 16,6 to 17 sounds about right because most of the asking prices are around 20,5 to 21.
So, let see, sticker on it was around 31K, now, 5-1/2 yrs later its worth 10% of MSRP. WOW! Gotta feeling that maybe at that low a trade price we'll hang onto it for one last trip to the Outer Banks. I'll let you all know what we end up doing
I've been getting offers of $13500-15000 for my 07 Durango SLT, 32K miles, 4wD, FFV from every dealer i talk to. I would imagine your value would be no better, probably worse even though you've got more equipment. At 13.5, I'm upside down 8K. Hopefully, that's not your situation. I do care about the price of gas but I can't get out of my durango. Good luck!
Ouch. We have been lucky in our past cars in that we get back into the black very quickly. We owe 12250 on it, so we are not upside down. I think a good deal of that is thanks to Edmunds. We buy near invoice (never pay sticker) and get cars with good resale values, and good interest rates.
Still I want to get as much as I can for this car. I dont want to lose 2k just to get the color Prius I want...
I was actually replying to frank regarding the durango but, In your case, most of the dealers are telling me, there only using the trade-in books as guides. What they're doing now is putting an auction value on trades - which is closer to KBB but not close at all to Edmunds. That's where I'm getting my trade-in value from (auction). They won't even talk to me about edmunds. I know it's got to do with the specific vehicle so hopefully your Murano will be an exception. I do agree that buying the right vehicle, and thinking about residual is important, now more than ever.
Yes, I have found that dealerships (at least non internet salesmen) LOATHE the internet. They always blow off anything I tell them about edmunds.com. Service hates them even worse, any time I find a TSB that applies to my car and call them, they sigh hehe.
But this site has helped me a great deal, maybe thats why they hate it so much.
I dont mind them making money at all, I just hate getting taken for a ride, and having to fight three hours for a decent deal.
The reason why dealers hate Edmunds(at least when it comes to appraising trades) is that Edmunds numbers most of the time have no basis in fact. When a dealer can look at the Manheim auction numbers,which are real, and then a consumer pulls out Edmunds, which isn't real, it is enough to make most dealers pull out their hair.
>look at the Manheim auction numbers,which are real, and then a consumer pulls out Edmunds, which isn't real,
The Edmunds numbers are real, aren't they? I suspect it's that Manheim numbers are always lower and better-liked by dealers for tradein values (which would make sense for their bottom line). Edmunds gets their numbers from "somewhere."
"Some" of the sleezier dealerships & salespeople--will try telling the customer anything to knock their trade--& see if the customer bites. The more clueless shoppers can't tell the difference between that, & a realistic trade-in value.
But I suspect that talking about Edmunds numbers indicates to the dealer that the customer is naive. And the Edmunds numbers IMO are all over the place--they're only a rough guide.....
I do agree that buying the right vehicle, and thinking about residual is important, now more than ever.
When you're shopping for a new car, your goal should be to find something that you can afford & will like enough to keep for a long time. My personal favorite was an Accord that we bought new in '87. Paid it off in early '91 & kept it for another 8+ years, banking the car payment money during that time. As a result, we could pay cash for the next car.
Trading out of cars frequently is financial poison.
Location: Chicago, IL Year/Make/Model: 2006/Infiniti/FX35 Body Style: 4dr Engine: 3.5 liter, 6 cylinder, auto Driveline: AWD Mileage:21000 Color: Black/black Major Options: touring package Condition: Details of interior and exterior, including dings, scratches etc. N/A Tires - 30% worn Brakes Maintenance all done in dealership Other: Indicate prior damage/insurance claims, repaints, etc. N/A
If the Edmunds numbers aren't real, where do they come from? This was discussed in some thread here in Edmunds about how they're generated but I can't remember.
Maybe kirstie_h can help with an explanation of the used, trade, retail, and private sale numbers Edmunds and BB get.
i bought a leftover '07. they felt they needed to give me the lowest possible number on that car. the offer was invoice - holdback - rebates. on my trade number they offered to swap the holdback to my trade. just an example of how the numbers are kind of fluid.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
Location: Bay Area, CA 2003 Volvo V70 2.4T Wagon 2.4L turbo, 5 cyl. automatic FWD 85,000 miles Dark metalic blue, tan leather alloys wheel, sun roof, power seats (driver and passenger), factory installed rear facing thrid row with built in booster seats and rear center console table, home link, leather steering wheel (premium package?) Fair condition - carpool door dings, dirver side carpet with hole from wife's heels Tires 10% worn Brakes less then 1/2 worn Maintenance per schedule at dealer One insurance claim for having been sideswiped on drivers side - repaired
You're my hero! I wish I could be satisfied with a car for 12 years but one of the reasons you drove it for 12 years was because you bought a car that could be driven for 12 years which, in a way, means you were buying something that would have value i.e. run for 12 years. You made my point. You're stating the obvious regarding trading in and out of cars is not financially responsible, but either is staying in a vehicle now that get s12 mi/gal.
Comments
New ones, fully loaded with DVD, power everything, etc. run mid-to-high $30k's from what I've seen.
See, the warranty thing is a point that I feel we can negotiate on.
I looked around at Auto Trader, for example, and found these:
2006 G.C. SXT
28,000 miles
DVD
power sunroof
(no power sliding doors, but that's just something my wife wants!)
$16,800
2006 G.C. SXT
23,000 miles
DVD
(again, no power sliding doors, not a problem for me)
no sunroof
$17,295
So, in my opinion, $16,800 is a bit high.
Sure, the mileage is great at 16k, but...if the in-service date is anywhere within 2005, then this is the last year of the 3-year warranty.
With the 2006 for $16,800, sure the power sliding doors are missing, but...are they that big a deal? (I'll have to ask she-who-must-be-obeyed)
It's got about 8k miles left on it's factory warranty...and yes, we may use that up this year...but we won't use it up within the next 6 months, I'm sure...or even 9 months, I'd bet (taking us into 2009).
So is my warranty argument a solid one, you think?
I bought a van last year and the power sliding doors were a requirement. We love them. Favorite feature by far.
The doors and heavy and awkward for a child to operate. This way they just press a button. You can also open the doors as you approach, saving time getting in and out.
Plus, you use those twice per trip, getting in and getting out.
The DVD you use only occasionally, usually on long trips.
To be honest I can't remember the last movie the kids watched on our DVD, yet I've used the power doors hundreds of times since then.
Get 'em, trust me. Even if it means sacrificing the DVD, which is an easy aftermarket fix anyway.
Why do I picture you kids crouched next to the door as you slow down to 30 and they do a tuck in roll into the preschool parking lot.
We have the side and rear automatic doors. The side door is much more useful as it gets used everyday. I am always afraid of opening the rear door in a parking lot and hitting someone, even though it beeps.
And I personally hate the power rear hatch. Unless you have an extremely tiny person using it, just seems silly to me.
The DVD built in as also, IMO, a giant waste of money. Especailly if you have more than 1 kid, since normally, they can never agree on anything! Just get them individual portable DVD players. Everyone watches what they want, probably a bigger screen, and you can use them outside of the van too.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If they are already open, you can drive off, however. :surprise:
At an auto show I hit the rear hatch button on a Hyundai Entourage and it hit some guy in the head. It reversed automatically and didn't hurt him.
stickguy: one button turns the power doors off, and they function like normal ones. So if they break, just turn them off, no big deal.
For the power hatch, I don't have that, but it would come in handy when you are approaching with something heavy in your arms. I have to place the item on the floor, open the hatch, bend down, pick it up again, etc. I think that would be useful, actually. Think about it. Every time you open the hatch, it's because you have something to put inside.
Portable DVD players are fine, and cheap, too. Vans have all sort of places to store and hide them, too.
Generally speaking minivan buyers have young kids, so these features add resale value to a used van. DVD maybe not as much, imagine what an old VHS-based tape player with a 5" screen is worth today. (Hint: zero)
This made me laugh so hard. I did that to a salesguy once, I was looking at a Tahoe, smacked him right in the head with the rear hatch, lol. Only thing his boss said was "you aren't going home!" His co-workers said I should have hit him harder, LOL.
No, I didn't buy the Tahoe.
I know Volvos CAN be good cars. I'm just a bit jaded because of a few used Volvos I've sold that have REALLY come back to bite me.
I wouldn't know a power sliding door from a lawnmower, not having a mini-van, but everyone here says they are great. More importantly, if the wife (AKA, she-who-must-be-obeyed, as both you & Rumpole put it) wants them, & you're a half-way sensible guy, you know what you must do.....
'06 Corolla LE Sedan, Green, 29K miles
'05 Honda Civic DX (Sedan), Red, 87K miles
TIA to Max or whomever is willing to respond.
2007 Subaru Forester XT (turbo motor)
5-speed manual
Gray/black heated leather
Big sunroof
10,000 miles
Great shape
Any ideas what this car might really be worth? Thank you for your help!
Yr. Make Model: 2005 Dodge Durano SLT
Body: SUV
Engine: 5.7 Liter Hemi
Driveline: AWD/4WD
Mileage: 21,900
Color: White
Major Options: Leather interior, Rear DVD player, stainless exhaust, 6 CD/MP3 player, SLT G package
Condition: Interior excellent, exterior also excellent, no dings or scratches
Tires: 20% worn
Brakes: Front new warranty replaced rotors
Other: Ins. claim in 2006. front end accident. Grill, hood and windshield damaged and replaced with oem Dodge parts
Looking for Trade in value toward a 2008 Chrysler Aspen Signature series. I don't care how much the price of gas goes up.
2008 Civic EX 4dr
1.8 5 speed automatic
FWD
2200 miles
alabaster silver/grey cloth
Condition Brand New
100%
non-smoker
Upgrading to a larger accord and would like to know what would be a fair trade in value for the car.
Thanks,
Mike
Also they want to make 1500.00 -2000.00 on the deal as profit when they sell it. It then gets near invoice price on a sparkling new 2008.
The 2009s are just starting to come out, I test drove one last week. That may bring values down as off-lease 07s are traded up for 09s.
Figure about 20% less than a new one, so I'd guess around $21k. Any less and it's a bargain. Any more and I'd stick with a new one.
One caveat - the 09 turbos no longer come with a manual trans, so that may soon become a rare find. Subaru said some months they only sold 10 manual XTs in an entire month.
In other words, if you gotta have a manual, don't hesitate.
Also they want to make 1500.00 -2000.00 on the deal as profit when they sell it. It then gets near invoice price on a sparkling new 2008.
Wow, you think the dealer will offer 17.5K for this car? 18.5K is the invoice for the car.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
2007 SEL AWD
color: Green
15k miles ( +- 2000)
Leather int
Rear Bucket seats w/ Console
split 3rd row
There is a mix of some with sunroofs, rear parking sensors, etc. and some without so if any of auction details have those #'s that would be helpful as well.
Also, I asked last year and know but our trade is probably going to be the following
2002 Ford Windstar SE
71k miles
Green
Clth int, Dual sliding doors, Vcr, rear sensors, Side curtain airbags
No dents, but a few scuffs that I'm goin gto try to buff out. Carpets surprisingly clean.
Brakes, Tires both> 50%
Thanks
Peeter
Civic is prob $6-7,000
Windstar should bring between $3-4,000
For whatever reason, the Hondas have asking prices that are near those of the Corollas.
Good Luck!
1998 Ford Mustang
3.8 liter V-6 / Auto trans
46000 miles / original adult owner
bright red over black cloth
basic option car - power windows/locks/cruise/alloys
great shape in and out, no major scratches or dings
tires 60%, newer brakes
NO paintwork or previous damage
Thanks in advance
2005 Nissan Murano S
4Dr Crossover
3.5L V6, CVT
FWD (2WD)
57K Miles
Burgandy Exterior, Tan Cloth Interior
Towing package, Power drivers seat and adj pedals, roof rack and cross bar
Tires show very little wear, about 40k miles left
Only minor dings from parking lots
never any accidents, no repaints or body work
Regular maintenance, but I did it myself so no paperwork
Brakes still have 25% pad left (I can replace these easily if it becomes an issue).
We have had it on Craigslist and Autotrader for almost 3 weeks now with only mild interest. Thing is we are wanting to get a Prius to replace it and those are starting to disappear fast, and we want to get the color/package we want before its gone! I know we will pay MSRP on the Prius, we are fine with that.
Edmunds shows trade in at 15350, which is great. Given a tax value for it on the Prius, we would break even when compared to selling it. And if we can trade in, we wont miss our color and package we want for the Prius.
However, we owe 12250 on it, and 2000 of that we would like to use to pay off higher interest credit card (we have preapproval for 4.9% on the Prius through our credit union).
Would/can a dealer offer us 15350, and cut us a check for 2000 at sale time, and apply the rest towards the Prius?
Thanks!
So, let see, sticker on it was around 31K, now, 5-1/2 yrs later its worth 10% of MSRP. WOW! Gotta feeling that maybe at that low a trade price we'll hang onto it for one last trip to the Outer Banks. I'll let you all know what we end up doing
Thanks
Car is probably worth $14-14,500.
We may drop by carmax to get an idea as well.
Still I want to get as much as I can for this car. I dont want to lose 2k just to get the color Prius I want...
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
But this site has helped me a great deal, maybe thats why they hate it so much.
I dont mind them making money at all, I just hate getting taken for a ride, and having to fight three hours for a decent deal.
When a dealer can look at the Manheim auction numbers,which are real, and then a consumer pulls out Edmunds, which isn't real, it is enough to make most dealers pull out their hair.
The Edmunds numbers are real, aren't they? I suspect it's that Manheim numbers are always lower and better-liked by dealers for tradein values (which would make sense for their bottom line). Edmunds gets their numbers from "somewhere."
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
But I suspect that talking about Edmunds numbers indicates to the dealer that the customer is naive. And the Edmunds numbers IMO are all over the place--they're only a rough guide.....
A CarMax appraisal is real because they will buy your car right then and there. That's also why the values are much, much lower.
When you're shopping for a new car, your goal should be to find something that you can afford & will like enough to keep for a long time. My personal favorite was an Accord that we bought new in '87. Paid it off in early '91 & kept it for another 8+ years, banking the car payment money during that time. As a result, we could pay cash for the next car.
Trading out of cars frequently is financial poison.
No, they aren't. That is the point.
I suspect it's that Manheim numbers are always lower and better-liked by dealers for tradein values
Manheim numbers come from ACTUAL transactions. Which is why dealers like them.
Year/Make/Model: 2006/Infiniti/FX35
Body Style: 4dr
Engine: 3.5 liter, 6 cylinder, auto
Driveline: AWD
Mileage:21000
Color: Black/black
Major Options: touring package
Condition:
Details of interior and exterior, including dings, scratches etc. N/A
Tires - 30% worn
Brakes
Maintenance all done in dealership
Other: Indicate prior damage/insurance claims, repaints, etc. N/A
If the Edmunds numbers aren't real, where do they come from? This was discussed in some thread here in Edmunds about how they're generated but I can't remember.
Maybe kirstie_h can help with an explanation of the used, trade, retail, and private sale numbers Edmunds and BB get.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T
Wagon
2.4L turbo, 5 cyl. automatic
FWD
85,000 miles
Dark metalic blue, tan leather
alloys wheel, sun roof, power seats (driver and passenger), factory installed rear facing thrid row with built in booster seats and rear center console table, home link, leather steering wheel (premium package?)
Fair condition - carpool door dings, dirver side carpet with hole from wife's heels
Tires 10% worn
Brakes less then 1/2 worn
Maintenance per schedule at dealer
One insurance claim for having been sideswiped on drivers side - repaired
Thanks for the help.
You're my hero! I wish I could be satisfied with a car for 12 years but one of the reasons you drove it for 12 years was because you bought a car that could be driven for 12 years which, in a way, means you were buying something that would have value i.e. run for 12 years. You made my point. You're stating the obvious regarding trading in and out of cars is not financially responsible, but either is staying in a vehicle now that get s12 mi/gal.
Prob an $8000 car.
Thank you.
car_rm