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One more piece of info. You mentioned 26k for my Wrangler Sahara. How much extra would it command if it had the factory navigation installed?
Thanks.
But, i found this for myself. Seems high based on Edmunds TMV, but reasonable based on all the people exercising their 1st amendment rights with the online car listings.
2002 325i wagon. RWD (yeah!). AT. Loaded, with sport package (love those seats), premium package (roof/power) and cold weather package. Looks very clean in the pictures. 85,000 miles. Dark green, which I like, but I suspect most people don't.
listed at $8,900. I would like to pay less of course, but for something this rare, is that price really out of line? Maybe the color and lack of AWD will limit the market for it?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2009 335i - Black/Black Sport Pkg, Premium, no navigation. 16,981 miles. Asking $34,995
2009 335i - Silver/Black Sport Pkg, Premium, Comfort Access. 31,225 miles. Asking $31,991
Thanks so much my friend!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Well... who knows at this point? If clean, it would be looking at $20k at the auction. Take that for what its worth.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
08/15/12 NJ Regular $7,500 85,778 Avg GREEN 6G A Yes
could that be it? Is this the torchlight car?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
even my wife, the pill, said the interior looked really nice on it!
He paid a good price for it, and really does not have all that much mark-up on it at $8,900, assuming that it is the same one (and odds are, it has to be!)
cleaned up nice though since the manheim condition was listed as Average. Looks above it to me for a 2002.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The first car I'm not too sure on. It is lower miles than anything that precedes it. Cars with 20-22k miles have gotten $27k-30k. With no nav but better miles, I'd probably peg this one right in the middle of that range.
The second one (no nav, either, right?) is probably right around $26k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't think that's how it works. Mileage/Age is part of "condition."
According to Terry of Blessed Memory, an "excellent" condition car could be a 1-year old Mercedes with 5k miles; at 3 years old, forget it.
Ain't no such thing as an "Above" condition listing in Manheim for a 2002 anything.
Considering the cathouse price they paid at the auction, it probably was every bit as nice as you see it now.
Even so, I think that's a crazy price for an 11-year-old "Dreier."
Guess I'm a pill, too...
-Mathias
So on the Silver/Black listed for $31,990. $26K @ auction + $2K to certify it (that's being generous) + $1000. Think he could get away with a $29K Plus TTL?
Glad you got the new Radio in the Volvo. Sorry to hear about the little one. I signed up to drive 4 laps in an F430 down in Englishtown on 9/16. My In Laws bought me the groupon for my birthday back in April.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I have had ZERO luck getting a BMW dealer to come down to even $4000 over auction value on a CPO car. But you can always try.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Take the X3 for example. A largish luxury SUV with limited rear visibility. But they make you pay extra for a backup camera, something standard in a base Honda CRV or Hyundai Santa Fe. I put homelink in that category too.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Respectfully,
Crusader Dad
2011 Honda Pilot SUV
EX-L 4door
With Navigation
250hp - 3.5L V6 engine
Super Low Mileage: 16,150
Lancaster, PA (17601)
Condition: Interior Clean - Paint like new,garage kept
a couple of very small scratches and a small crease in right front wheel well
4WD - 5-speed Automatic transmission
Exterior: Mocha Metallic - Interior: Beige
Tires low wear
• New State Inspection- good for 1 year
• Original owner + no smoking or pets in vehicle
• XM satellite Radio- activated/paid until Feb. 22, 2014
• All service records and title for vehicle available (all service done at dealership)
Original MSRP was $38,375
I am just thinning the herd. 4 cars = 3 drivers. My 16 year old son gets his junior DL in a couple of months. I am trying to keep insurance costs reasonable. Job issues are forcing my hand.
Is it harder to sell a car to a dealer without the prospect of a new sale for them?
I imagine a private party sale on newer full size SUV are not common?
What is the best way to sell 2011 Pilot?
Hoping to learn market price for dealer sale and private party sale. Thank you in advance for recommendations!
Respectfully,
Crusader Dad
You sure would hate to sell it, then forget about the automatic renewal, if you are set up that way.
It could possibly help to keep it with a private sale.
When your son gets his DL, it will nice not to have to pick him up after football practice.
I just typed Lancaster and Crusader in the search box and saw football.
ND/Navy tomorrow at 9am.
One of my nephew's is on a college football team, got red shirted last year.
Hope he gets to play this year.
It is certainly your perogative to attempt selling privately. Problem is, not too many folks are comfortable buying a $30k vehicle through private transaction.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thank you for your feedback. I appreciate your timely response. I hope you have a great Labor Day holiday!
Respectfully,
Crusader dad
Of course, that started the itch for the missus and I wanted to see what her Mercedes could potentially trade for. Details below:
Central FL (Tampa/Orlando)
2007/MB/ML 350
6 banger 3.5L auto (unleaded)
4Matic AWD
Mileage: 36,711 (not a typo)
Color: Black Ext w Black Int
Options: Premium package (DVD Nav, Backup camera, HK sound system, power front seats w memory, power liftgate) and Sport Package (polished aluminum front and rear bumpers, running boards and 19" wheels)
Interior condition
The interior is excellent save for two spots. The inside part of the steering wheel is doing this funky fading thing and 9 and 3 where the hands rest on top of the radio and menu buttons. Not sure what caused it (the rest of the wheel is great) but it looks crappy. I don't want to put a bunch of products on it at this point and potentially make it worse.
Exterior condition
It's black and has been living in FL for 5 years, so there are water spots on the hood and roof. I can probably minimize it by spending a long weekend buffing it with some heavy cut, but are we talking about a significant drop in price for paint with some wear like this?
There is a scratch (shopping cart or light key) for about 2 feet at the rear passenger door and fuel door.
The driver side mirror has a crack on the outside (where the blinker is on this mirror).
Couple of small scratches on the rear bumper passenger side (probably backed into a bush at some point).
Otherwise, wear on the paint is normal I would say.
Tires - rears are maybe 1/3 worn... fronts are basically dead
Brakes - No issues whatsoever and I would assume they have life in em since mileage is so low
Maintenance - It's been taken care of by the local MB dealer it's entire life. Only item replaced in 5 years is the power steering reservoir last year.
Looking for a trade value and thoughts on whether I should take the time to polish her up significantly, or let it go.
As always, you guys rock on this forum and I greatly appreciate your feedback and insight. Thanks!
I went to get a quote for winter wheels and tires for my wife's SUV. It came from the factory with TPMS sensors. I just want steel wheels without the sensors - I'll check the pressure myself for a few months and ignore the idiot light on the dash. The guy at the tire place insisted he had to sell TPMS sensors, that it was "the law" that he do so.
My BS detector went off, so I decided to wait. Anyone know the answer?
Again, my apologies for mis-posting.
NHTSA's interpretation of the Motor Vehicle Safety Act prohibits service providers from installing aftermarket tires and wheels on your vehicle without working TPMS sensors.
Also see their page on State TPMS regulations.
I'm a little fuzzy, however, on vehicles produced BEFORE then that have TPMS optional. I mean, if your 2005 vehicle has it, do you HAVE to keep it active? I don't yet know the answer, but now you have me curious.
BTW, I have them deactivated in my 2008 bmw, but I buy and mount my own tires.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Maybe you guys can help me translate, but I'm reading it as "not necessarily required with aftermarket equipment." :confuse:
Under 49 U.S.C. 30122(b), "A manufacturer, distributor, dealer, or motor vehicle repair business may not knowingly make inoperative any part of a device or element of design installed on or in a motor vehicle or motor vehicle equipment in compliance with an applicable motor vehicle safety standard prescribed under this chapter [49 USC �� 30101 et seq. ] unless the manufacturer, distributor, dealer, or repair business reasonably believes the vehicle or equipment will not be used (except for testing or a similar purpose during maintenance or repair) when the device or element is inoperative. "� As a general matter, malfunction indicators can alert consumers when one of the above entities has made a vehicle modification that has rendered a functioning system inoperative. In such instances, the business presumably took such action inadvertently and would remedy the situation accordingly once the malfunction indicator is triggered. [38]�This principle is important, because such modifications may: (1) make the monitored system itself incapable of functioning; (2) have an appreciable impact on vehicle safety, and (3) be relatively difficult for the consumer to remedy.
However, the situation surrounding the TPMS malfunction indicator represents a special case. First, the TPMS itself is analogous to a malfunction indicator, because the low tire pressure telltale would only be expected to illuminate if the driver has failed to perform routine tire maintenance or if a tire has developed a leak. Therefore, the TPMS MIL is one step removed, essentially being a malfunction indicator for a malfunction indicator. In any event, even if the TPMS back-up system were not available, the driver could (and should) manually check his vehicle�s tire inflation pressure on a regular basis.
In situations where the TPMS MIL is detecting aftermarket or replacement tires or rims that prevent the continued proper functioning of the TPMS, such equipment arguably has not damaged the TPMS itself, but instead has hindered its low tire pressure detection capability. (Arguably, the tires themselves meet the requirements of the relevant FMVSSs related to tires and would be suitable for safe vehicle operation, absent the TPMS problem.)� Once the TPMS MIL illuminates, the consumer would be warned that the equipment has caused a TPMS malfunction, and the consumer could substitute other equipment that would permit the TPMS to resume normal functioning.
As noted previously, vehicle manufacturers, tire manufacturers, and other businesses may not know, or reasonably be able to know, exactly which of the many aftermarket or replacement tire and rims would prevent the TPMS from continuing to function properly. There are many tire and rim choices for a given vehicle, and a variety of businesses are involved in tire and rim installation and repair. In such cases, these businesses may only come to know of a problem once the TPMS MIL illuminates. Furthermore, because some TPMSs must be driven for a period of time in order to detect a malfunction, it is quite possible that the consumer would have driven away from such business before the MIL illuminates.
After the time of first sale, our primary goal for the TPMS MIL is to provide information and a warning to the consumer in order to ensure long-term operability of the TPMS. In the tire-related situations described above, the TPMS MIL has arguably served its purpose; the consumer has been warned of the compatibility problem, and the consumer and the installer are able to work together to resolve that problem. The intention is not to penalize the business for accidentally installing one of a very small number of incompatible replacement tires that are difficult to identify.
We note that this result might be different where it can be shown that the installer knew of the incompatibility beforehand or took some other action to disable a functioning TPMS unit. In addition, we would point out that we believe that the TPMS MIL represents a unique case, and the above discussion does not alter our approach to malfunction indicators generally or to the other specific malfunction indicators referenced above.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I wonder if I bought them online from Tirerack or somewhere and mounted them myself if I could get around this.
Seems to me like another well-meaning government mandate that ends up costing the consumer more money while providing very little benefit.
I am hoping some kind hearted person out there can give me good info for what these cars are truly worth. If I had real wholesale values for each, that would tell me what I need to know to negociate a fair deal.
I am in st. Louis, MO
I have to trade in:
2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid - tan ext/tan int- 47k miles - w/ nav, leather, wheels, sunroof, heated and power seats. Basically every option known to the Camry. Car has no mechanical defects. Need 2 tires. has a few (only minor) dings. Interior is spotless.
I want to buy:
2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon black ext / black int - 36k miles - Automatic, black hardtop (not painted), non-factory kenwood touchscreen radio. Everything else seems standard.
If someone can share wholesale value for both...that would give me a good starting point.
alternately...fair, realistic, trade value for the camry and fair, realistic buy it price for the wrangler.
I was thinking of asking/offering $25k for the wrangler. $15k for the Camry.
Ok...done rambling insanely.
The Camry is worth far less than you think, I'm afraid. Your miles are low, but dealers can buy examples with miles between 55k and 60k for $10k. That would translate to around $9500 trade-in/wholesale. Given your miles and all the options, you can hope for $10k...maybe push for $10,500. You do need tires, though. It will be tough.
The Wrangler is more like $25k wholesale itself. So you'd need to step up your offer on that, too. They could send it off to auction and get $26k for it. So you are probably more in that $27,500-$28k range.
The net net? Your Camry and $17,500 would be fair. I'd probably start them at $16k, personally. BUT, maybe after hearing these numbers, you might reconsider cutting your fuel mileage in half.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
In my case that would be a small price to pay to keep from dying of boredom... :P
I'd rather drive my 1999 Wrangler than a Camry of any vintage.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
That said, if one is determined to have a Wrangler and a four year old Wrangler is really worth $27.5-28k, why not spend a little more and buy a new 2013 model?
I had a loaner Wrangler once. Let's see... this should have been an '06 or '07. Thought it was absolutely wretched. My '79 CJ7 was more comfortable and rode better.
And, actually, coincidentally enough, way back when, I had a coworker who drove my CJ and he owned a Wrangler... this must have been around '91... and he admitted mine felt way better than his.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2008 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4, V6, 78k miles, Moonroof, Bose, Michelins 50%, nice shape overall, needs nothing and all maint up-to-date.
or
2011 Honda Accord EX-L NAV, 4cyl, 12k miles, as new.
Also to add to your knowledge tank....last week traded a 2011 Sienna Ltd with Prem pkg (nav/dvd) and 30k miles for $29k. This was on a new MDX for $2k under invoice.
Pathfinder... around $14k.
Accord ... this is a 4-door, yes? If so, I'd peg it right around $18k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The other side I get a little better. He pays $25k at auction or to the old owner. To make the same % profit on the jeep, he has to sell it for $27.5k. I guess where I am confused is here:
Two weeks ago, I was looking at a nearly identical Rubicon. Except the one from 2 weeks ago had factory navigation (as opposed to whatever this Kenwood system does) and had the fancy spotlight bar above the windshield. I figure those things probably combine to be worth about $5-600, right?
So that guy was willing to do the following:
Rubicon: $26.5k
Camry: $12.5k
...Still $4,000 from where I WANT to be but better than what I am hearing here.
As for new....At "$500 below factory invoice" a nearly as nice new 2012 is still $33k. When did a wrangler become a luxury SUV? yes...I am talking about the 4 door version but it seems like a crime.
I would think in this economy my darling 39mpg average Camry would fly off the lot when sitting next to a 15/19 mpg Wrangler that doesnt seat any more passengers, have nearly as many options, or ride nearly as comfortably.
Of course...I suppose I wouldnt be asking the question if my premise were true on all fronts.
And a wife who smiles while she rides with no top on the jeep is worth something. I just didn't think it was $4000.
Probably at the same time you could no longer buy a luxury SUV for $33k :P Try 40k+ for anything remotely decent. Hell I just traded a two year old minivan that originally had a sticker over $45k!!
Wranglers have always had really strong resale. I remember having the same conversation back in 90's about why on earth a bare-bones used Wrangler was $15k?? Cars...not so much.
For me, part of the (prospective) fun of a Wrangler is in simplicity of it. Yes the 2012 Sahara Unlimited is tough looking and has nicer wheels, but load it up with leather, heated seats, navigation, hard top, soft top, automatic & you are pushing $37K. Yes you look like a bad [non-permissible content removed] driving a Rubicon with those big tires, but is it any more fun than a Sport Unlimited? You can still take the top off, it still is the world's only 4WD, 4 Door, Convertible.
Just like my BMW. For years I said to myself that "when I get a BMW it will be RWD & have a Sports Pkg (and manual transmission)." For the past 5 1/2 months & 8000 or so miles I've been driving a 328xiA (AWD, Non Sport, Automatic) which is the heaviest (and slowest) configuration of an E90 3 Series sedan. Guess what? Its an absolute BLAST to drive. It doesn't have the twin scroll turbo N55, but still gets up to triple digits and has no problems cruising at high speeds. I've taken some twisty corners at speeds higher than the suggested limit and the stability control has only intervened a handful of times. My car has a naturally aspirated Inline 6, a balanced, RWD chassis, slick looking wheels, bright as day Xenon Headlights... If I had gotten a deal on a 335i would I have taken it? Probably. Do I need it? Not in the least bit. The 328 is probably more car than I'm equipped to handle.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Of course, anybody can ask whatever they want for a vehicle. It is the taking price that matters. Nobody is getting $17k for that Camry retail unless a completely oblivious person falls in their lap. Could that happen, too? Of course. You also can win a few bucks with scratch-off lottery tickets.
I've wound up with a couple of killer deals. Best one ever was the dealer who gave me $3k over auction value on my G35 and sold me a 1-year-old Mazda5 for about $1k over. I'll never figure out how that worked out. I think he was looking to make it up on the G35, which sat there forever.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
All things considered, as is, you are probably in that $20-$21k zip code. As long as they feel they can buff everything out, no harm done. The tires and mirror are where they would ding you. Does it help to replace those things? Meh... not to the point you should do it yourself. If you were private selling it, it would be an entirely different story.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
As always, thanks for the advice!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
A few years ago my wife was trying to convince me to cut my fleet down to four vehicles- and suggesting that the Jeep should probably get the ax. However, the Jeep was the only vehicle that could make it out our farm road after a big ice storm in 2010, and just last spring I used it to pull flood debris tat were blocking our main entrance/bridge. Haven't heard anymore talk about getting rid of the old Wrangler...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Location: Bloomington, IN
Year/Make/Model: 2004 Hyundai Sonata
Body Style: 4dr
Engine: 4 cyl 5MT
Driveline: FWD
Mileage: 194000
Color: grey/grey
Major Options: None that she disclosed.
Condition:
Average wear & tear. Cracked windshield.
Tires - 2 new; 2 pretty worn
Brakes - OK. 3 years old but mostly highway mileage on them.
Maintenance - Generally maintained according to service schedule.
Other: No accidents.
Besides as-is value, considering this is private party sale, would it be better to replace the windshield? (I'm wondering if, say, $300 to replace it would up the selling price by $350-400. Also if the crack is much of a deterrent to average buyers in this price range.)
It still runs well but is developing high mileage quirks. Most of the mileage is because she has a 60+ mile each way commute from Bloomington to Indy.