Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
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And you know, the stock doesn't really seem more 'fresh' after the move. He's still got the same 5 Rangers, and none of them seem to have grown a 4L motor during the moves.
And, of course I have a lot of time on my hands, I read all this Edmunds stuff don't I. Now, what about this 'golf' I'm supposed to look into? Does Ford sell this model?
According to the DMV online website it costs about $125 for registration and $25 for title and $10 for a license plate. I think he was taken. What do you people think?
Don't know that I'd consider that being 'taken', though.
Was there a documentation fee on top of everything else? Here in NJ, we pay the DMV fees, plus a doc fee for the dealer to handle the DMV paperwork- most recently $125 at my dealer.
What am I missing?? I prefer to give the salesman the benefit of the doubt, but I don't know...
gracevw
gracevw
Car_man
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Make sure they are not bumping the money factor on you or messing with the residual. Car Man can give you both from the current VW deal (who is the finance company?). You ought to know the cap cost since you negotitated it. Make sure you understand how tax is calculated on leases in your state (some calc. tax on the monthly lease amt and a few calc. tax on the entire cap cost).
It's pretty easy to do once you've got the formula down. I almost got bamboozeled once on a lease until I realized what I was screwing up (the dealer misrepresented the MF but I caught it before signing the papers).
Thank you for your replies! I appreciate it. Car_man, I have done the lease calculation on both the GL and GLS using various MF, cap. cost, and residuals - that's why I was fairly confident going in that I knew what a fair monthly price should be. The printouts he showed me listed all the pertinent information, but did not show the calculations that were used to arrive at the final monthly payment. I actually sat there and used his calculator and the numbers presented on the computer printout he gave me and I still couldn't arrive at the same number they did! That's when he kept telling me that it couldn't be done using a regular calculator because there were things that were factored in - which, of course, he refused to elaborate on. Needless to say (but I'm going to anyway!), I was getting pretty frustrated.
bretfraz, from what I could see the MF hadn't changed, but who knows -I certainly may have missed something!
I will be heading over to the Finance forum now...
Thanks again!!
gracevw
has anyone heard of doing the paperwork themselves to save the costs of administrative costs?
We were shopping for a '02 Subaru Legacy wagon (manual) but were captivated by some bells and whistles on the Outback (Can't underestimate the appeal of, e.g., wiper de-icers and seat warmers in New England). It happened that one of the dealers had a couple of '01 Outback demos with 3K and 4.5K miles respectively.
1) Should we be concerned that these have been driven hard by yahoos like me, testing out the acceleration and braking, and abusing the clutch?
2) The Edmunds, NADA, and Blue Book prices on these cars was ~$18.8K, $20.3K, 23.3K, respectively. Given that range, does the dealer's asking price of 19.2K seem pretty reasonable for a demo?
4) Is the demo with 3K mi much more attractive than the one with 4.5K?
Any thoughts on any of these questions, or other tips on how to evaluate these cars, will be much appreciated.
Pan2
Take the price of the vehicle minus any money you are putting down(fees don't count only cap cost reduction)
Second determine the depreciation.
Subtract the residual value from the adjusted cap.
Third determine the rental charge.
Add the residual to the adjusted cap and multiply the sum by the money factor(this should be a number that looks like this .00255 and is approximatly equal to the interest rate divided by 2400).
Fourth determine total of monthly payments.
Add depreciation plus rental charge
Fifth determine base monthly payment.
Divide total of monthly payments by term.
Now multiply base monthly payment by the appropriate state tax rate
9% in PA and you get your payment.
To determine money due at delivery Add:
Cap cost reduction
Tax on cap reduction
Bank aquisition Fee
Security deposit (if applicable)
Notary Fee's
Plate/DMV charges
First monthly payment
Luxury tax(4% of everything over $40,000)
Most of this except First monthly payment and plate and notary fee's can be rolled into adjusted cap.
TB
in our region the car you want is selling at close to MSRP. But you can certainly offer anything you want.
I checked with CarsDirect.com, they said they could get the vehicle for $18,7K. If I walked this quote into the dealership, and asked them to beat it, would they?
It's the prevailing MARKET that determines price.
If your local dealer has these vehicles laying all over the lot then you will have a better chance of them working with you on price.
If you make a fair offer and they decline either raise your budget or move on...nothing wrong with making a low offer, as long as its not absurd, and haggle from there....somewhere in the middle you shall meet.
Rich
Have you noticed many red EX's around? Does the EX have the alloys with the REAL wide spokes? If so, is it possible to get a different wheel? I really think those are ugly (subjective, I know). The wheels on my '00 SE are my favorite Accord alloys for the whole 6th gen. Thanks in advance!
The EX-V6's do have the alloys with the wide spokes. Its the EX-4cly that has the neater looking narrow spokes. Honda sells a different wheel that looks pretty good but it will cost you.
I bought a Cadillac off 2 year lease with less than 13,000 miles. I've looked at a Caddy off a 3 year lease with just over 4,000 miles!!!!!
People with money do strange things with lease cars....
Main thing I would say about an Aurora - this is an Oldsmobile. Oldsmobiles are dead, dead, dead. I've heard there are 2001 Aurora NEW setting on lots unsold. This doesn't seem like a car I would drive 5 hours each way to look at....
Don't be afraid to mention hold back. If they throw you out for uttering the word, then you probably don't need to be dealing with them anyway. Lets get real guys, shoppers know about hold back now a days, if you refuse to discuss the issue, your loss. You do not have to give the buyer any hold back, but walking them to the door for trying to discuss it, to me, seems inconsiderate.
That's one vehicle, you don't have to be shy with .. as far as being "dead", I think Bolivar needs to do a little more homework, the dealers are still clamoring for them .. But, he does make some great points as far as miles. I have bought plenty of 9/12/15K 00 Caddys, and the reason why these folks trade them is: "Because they can."
A nice "baby doll" 99 Aurora with Ultra low miles, and all the toys, will still "ring" the bell in and around the $14's+ at the block .... and it's just not GM dealers bidding on em' -- it's Ford, BMW, Toyota, etc .. everyone looks for, and wants clean, reliable, sharp, low mileage vehicles in their inventory .. they sell quick ..!
Terry.
And Thel, maybe that's why God stopped talking to me, gotta stop asking for them hookers 'n beer!
They started at 19K - I offered 14k with no response - I offered 15k 2 wks later - they came back and said rock bottom is 16.2K. I said nope. They called yesterday and said what about 15.5K if I'd do deal before month end. I like the car - clean car fax - clean warranty srvc record - one owner off lease from Mississippi. I don't know if I should wait until I look at another one with half the miles that salesman said would prob. go for 17.2 (bronze mist/chromes/Bose/roof/18.2k miles/heated seats). Can't look at this car until after month end. Do you think dealer would still sell the white one after month end for 15.5? He's had it since April and NEEDS to move it - I'm sure. How critical is month end in my negotiations? Thanks.
Was the first salesman lying to me, or did he just not have his facts straight? What should I do if car is not at dealer on July 6?
The new Corolla is super-popular right with demand far outstripping supply. Many dealers cannot keep them on their lots. I'm sure this is a case where the factory is trying to ramp up production to meet orders. I don't think there's anything a dealer can do about it except keep checking the system for info.
I'm sure Cliffy and Mackabee will chime in on this one. In the meantime, go to the Sedans conference and talk to the other Corolla owners. I'm sure you'll hear a similar story.
Since my post I looked on the Toyota site. No Corollas available in my area at all. Most will be available during July and August. I will just wait for the one I ordered to come in. I was confused with the changing dates, but maybe it was just the best information the dealer had from Toyota at the time.
Rich
I have to ask a question of you though if I may. There isn't any way that the dealer has sold my car to someone else, and re ordered mine?? If someone came in when the car came in and offered more money than me, is there any way a dealer would sell it to the other person, and just make me wait for mine? How do I make sure, especially if I still have no car next weekend as the sales manager promised.
Thanks.
Unless of course you get no car at all.
jonbgood,
First of all, if you are leary of a car for whatever reason, don't buy it. Also, if you are too cautious, you may end up very frustrated.
If you REALLY want an Aurora, you shouldn't have to drive five hours. The local lots are packed with them.
Thanks. I went today and got the VIN number. Craziest thing. The salesman called me today and said the car would be in "any minute." So, I went in after work, and sales manager told me July 12 is the newest date. Sounds like Toyota plant is behind schedule. Sales manager said the salesman was just dreaming because he wants the car to come in too as bad as I do. No car, no commission I guess.
Who supplies the numbers for invoice prices that sites like edmunds uses? I have heard on TH that the manufacturers do not supply this info. If this is true where does the invoice price info come from and how can it be so consistent across a number of websites and publications, if it is not coming from the manufacturer?
Too bad, since I guess I'm from the old school where a merchant's cost of product is for him to know.
AutoByTel obtains current invoice pricing since they are essentially a dealer and are given that info as a matter of business. I don't recall how CarsDirect gets their pricing.
Trust me...there are moles in every company and sadly, they are often the most trusted.
what will I get for a 98 passat 4dr gls sedan no special options - fair condition? - 100,400+ miles in so california/l.a. area? - thanks, vesc