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Any Questions for a Car Dealer?

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  • visionxpvisionxp Member Posts: 45
    i was trying to find out the TMV on a car and after i put in all the information i got the results and there i saw that color adjustment.

    how does that work?
    does the car's color affect its value in certain areas?

    how does this work in california?
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Color is a factor is some cases. Dark colors are hard to sell down South but can bring a premium up North. Could be a $500-1000 swing depending.

    Weird freaky colors also have an impact on value. No matter how much you like Disco Purple or Metallic Copper or Taxi Cab Yellow or Dark Mocha Sandstorm (aka Poo Poo Brown), most normal folks ain't gonna buy a car in those colors. Oddball colors always take a hit come trade in time as cars like that are almost impossible to sell unless its to a very narrow audience.
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Member Posts: 38,514
    If a vehicle's advertising fees are listed on its invoice, then they are legitimate. However, if they are not mentioned at all, other than verbally by someone at your dealership or on some dealer add on to the invoice, then they may just be an attempt to add more profit to your deal. The bottom line in any automotive transaction is that you, the consumer, want to get the car or truck that you are interested in by paying the lowest amount of money possible (provided that you feel comfortable with your dealer). So rather than worrying about all of the little fees that dealers often try to tack onto deals, concentrate on the big picture, your vehicle's out the door price. As long as you are getting the lowest total price for your vehicle, it doesn't really matter how they break it down. If you feel as though this $600 advertising fee is not legitimate and is raising the total cost of the truck that you want above what you can purchase it for elsewhere, why not comparison shop at a couple of dealerships to see if you can get a better total price.

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  • alfoxalfox Member Posts: 708
    S'what I've been trying to say, only more understandable.
  • ccotenjccotenj Member Posts: 610
    "however, when I go to the furniture store, I know that on that day, I'm going to pay the same price for that recliner as everyone else who comes into the store"...

    except you aren't... because guess what, that stuff is negotiable too... just like tv's, stereos, computers, jewelry, etc.

    -Chris
  • alfoxalfox Member Posts: 708
  • ccotenjccotenj Member Posts: 610
    "must ignore reality"
    "must ignore reality"

    -Chris
  • cherokeelmtcherokeelmt Member Posts: 22
    I have been selling cars for over a month now and am losing interest fast. I am an honest person trying to make an honest dollar and it seem's impossible in this buisness. I sold a used Merc. Sable the other day. The guy's biggest bargaining point was his interest rate. We ( the F$I guy and I ) explained to him that based on his credit score the best he can do is 9.9% He disagreed. We faxed some credit aps to the banks and a little while later the F$I guy calls me in and says we got him at 9.35% Even though the bank approved him at 5.35%! We bump him up 4 points and he accepts the 9.35 and drives away in his 01 Sable Spot Delivery. This is how the dealer treated a friend of mine that came to me for a car so he would not get screwed! I rationalized with myself and said hey he accepted it, but still don't feel good about the whole thing. There are a few other stories, but this one is long enough.
  • golicgolic Member Posts: 714
    If this was a friend of yours, why not tell him to go out and get his own financing and then come back and get the car.

    Dealerships are not banks, if someone does not want to do their own homework and accept the dealer financing options, then that is there own fault. Had your friend had a commitment for 5.35% in his pocket, your F&I wouldn't hesitate to match it.

    When someone is about to make a major purchase, they should make an informed decision. Not just rely on a friend saying I'll take car of you. It sounds like he got a good deal on the car you did your part. He should have done his.

    If you want to be more of a friend, tell him to go to the bank and get refinanced.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    tell the F&I guy he owes you $100 if you can talk your buddy into letting the loan live 90 days before he refinances so the F&I guy doesn't get a charge-back! Find out what its worth not to get a charge-back for the F&I guy! hehehe...
  • stevationstevation Member Posts: 15
    I'm thinking of buying a new 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. Is it likely that Nissan will offer big discounts or rebates in the coming month to try to clear out their 2002 inventories, or am I already too late for the good incentives? Do car companies do much in the way of incentives in Nov. or Dec.?

    Steve
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    but check the incentives to make sure you couldn't get a 2003 for about the same money. On a vehicle with fairly consistent incentives, like the Pathfinder, there may be only a $500 difference in incentives between the 2002 and 2003.
  • brianw220brianw220 Member Posts: 38
    Follow Zues' advice as it will most certaily expedite your departure from the car business you seem to dislike anyway. Bon voyage!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    can't I have a little fun? I was trying to keep the F&I guy from getting charged back! That's 4 points of rate, you know!
  • candyman85233candyman85233 Member Posts: 43
    Well, I went back to the dealership and test drove the 2003 and the 2002. I guess they are exactly the same car. The 2003 has the dark blue exterior and a 6 disc changer, full size spare/wheel, and the convenience package. The 2002 is Lt Almond with a 4 disc changer, full size spare/wheel and convenience package. He states they are exactly the same. The 2003 now has 20 miles on it (had 10 at the start of my test drive) and the 2002 now has almost 100. He says they are doing some great deals on the 2002 to get rid of them, and will be about $3,000 cheaper than the 2003 (He verbally said about 24 or 25,000).

    WHAT SHOULD I DO?! They both come with 3/36 full warranty and a 7/70 powertrain. Either color is fine for me. It just boils down to why a 2003 is $3,000 more? Is there a reason for me to get the 2003?

    Also, is the dealer holdback and dealer doc fees negotiable? Why should I pay $250 or however much they charge for their paperwork?!

    Thanks in advance!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    and see what numbers are out there for the 2003. True the 2002 will probably have more rebates and WILL have more dealer cash, but unless they're dropping below invoice (way), you're not getting the benefit of that.

    If the $3K difference they're showing you is because they are discounting the 2002 and they are NOT discounting the 2003, that doesn't work. The Sebring's a nice car, but it's not a HUmmer H2 - it gets sold for $500 over invoice all day long, everywhere.
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Member Posts: 9,332
    .... You should be able to purchase either one of those for around $200/$500 over invoice, then minus the rebate .. I believe the 03's have $1,500 and that would be your better deal ...

    Terry.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
  • candyman85233candyman85233 Member Posts: 43
    Edmunds lists the 2002 new as TMV of $25,000, when invoice on a 2002 is $27,000. So, 25,000 minus the 1500 incentive is 23,500. I guess we'll see.

    The 2003 Invoice is 27,000 minus the 1500 rebate is 25,500, so is the 2003 worth an extra $2000?!

    That is the question?!
  • stebustebu Member Posts: 204
    Actually, for a Sebring conv, Edmunds shows $2500 dealer cash available on the 2002's and either the low rate loan or $1500 buyer incentive money on the 2003 in my region (NE). I think their estimated TMV prices have the cash discounts already factored in. At least, it appears that they are.
  • jeepster4jeepster4 Member Posts: 53
    If you plan on trading the Sebring before it's 5 years old, the difference in depreciation would be a reason for looking for a sizable differential between the price of a 2002 and a 2003. How much of a hit the dealer will take and the incentives offered to the dealer and the consumer are the tools used to arrive at the differential. If you plan to drive it 'til the wheels fall off, take the 2002 and put the savings in your pocket.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    "If you plan on trading the Sebring before it's 5 years old"
    and
    "If you plan to drive it 'til the wheels fall off"

    Whichever comes first.

    (Couldn't resist.)
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    probably.....
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,242
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  • 98jettavr698jettavr6 Member Posts: 47
    I'm shopping for an Expedition Eddie Bauer. Came across a listing for a 2000 with 39,000 miles, asking price is $24,9. I offered the dealer $20 (including tax & tags). Anyone think he'll bite or am I kidding myself?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    That's FIVE THOUSAND DOLLARS less than his asking price...no, wait! You want the tax and license included too??

    So that means, depending on your tax rate, that you are really offering seven thousand dollars more or less than his asking price!!??

    Wow!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    Is it 4 wheel drive or two?

    2WD has a retail around $24,200 and wholesales around $21,500 - 4 wheel drive is $1200 more.

    Depending on whether there's a trade, the taxes could be $0-1,500.

    The point is you don't just pull a number out of the air to make an offer. The vehicle is worth what it's worth and the dealer can sell it easily near retail book or a little less. You could probably save $1,000 or $1,500 from their price, but not $5-7K - that's much less than they paid for the rig.
  • 98jettavr698jettavr6 Member Posts: 47
    but I figured I'd make the offer to see if he bites. Another dealer has already agreed to accept that offer on a '99 EB 4WD w/52K miles, so I just thought I'd throw it out there on a 2000. More than likely, I'll buy the '99 on Sat. for $20K.

    Thnx. for the opinions.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    I have no problem with you making offers..but remember, an absurd offer is often not taken seriously and either is the buyer.

    so lets say he accepts your offer. Now you have two offers that have been accepted. Does that mean your buying two cars or just threatening to buy a car. What I mean, your making offers and not backing them up. You come in and offer a low price...my reply would be if I accept your offer are your buying the car NOW? if your answer is not now...then I wont take your offer too seriously...the reason? simple..your threatening to buy. Threats dont mean anything. haha
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    what if $20K on the '99 is too much? Did you even look at a book or ask anyone? The magic $20K figure may be too high or too low, but the thing is, YOU DON'T KNOW and you NEED TO KNOW before you buy a truck.

    Any number is just a number unless it has meaning and relevance. Quit playing games, do your research and buy a truck at the RIGHT price - good luck.
  • stebustebu Member Posts: 204
    "Forget "blue sky" offers,... Quit playing games, do your research and buy a truck at the RIGHT price "

    Bingo! A voice of reason can be so refreshing. Nice post zuelslewis.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    (Sorry for long-ish post)
    I have been reading this forum for a long time, but, until now, have not posted in this subject. I appreciate the thoughts and input from all, and especially thank the professional "car people" here for their comments.

    I feel today, however, that I must make a statement. Can any body here really say honestly that a $5,000 off offer is absurd? Haven't you all (sales people?) seen sales at that amount off, or more on used cars? Dealers frequently price their used cars high enough to cover a buyer's negative equity in their trade. They can make a deal, and make the buyer feel good about what they are getting for their trade. If a cash buyer comes in, then the need to cover that negative doesn't exist, hence a possible big discount.

    I recently (September) purchased a 2002 used car for $6,000 under what the dealer was "asking." No trade was involved. I didn't go to more than one dealer making offers that were accepted. I test drove the car, decided it was what I wanted, set my offer price based upon research I had done, and started negotiations. Within 45 minutes, without any "grinding" by either party, we settled at $500 over my first offer. By the way, this was the "right price" for this car, at this time.

    I realize that this may not be a popular opinion, but I believe that the asking price is immaterial.
  • manamalmanamal Member Posts: 426
    The thing is not that it is appropriate to go low, it is that you should know the value of a car. As for 5K below initial offer, I looked at one car this summer (Honda Civic) which had a window sticker of 19K....I looked at it and laughed....I had done my research and knew that the car could be had for about 14,500-15,000. When I said that, the salesman responded that he was aware, and this is the range I could get.

    Some cars can not be negotiated. Some can. Honda Oddessey at full MSRP is a great buy....Toyota Sienna is not.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    The asking price is immaterial only if the buyer knows (not guesses) what the current local market price is for a vehicle exactly like the one they're bidding on. How many buyers know that? You say you did research? How much? What kind?

    Some people toss out a number and get lucky; others do a good bit of research and know what they're talking about; but most just use Kentucky Windage and toss out a price like a hunk of bait and hope a dealer will bite. Not too smart. And it's even less smart when a buyer does this while having no intention of buying TODAY.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    is the difference between wholesale and retail book - $2-3K, usually. I have, on many occasions, adjusted both the price of the vehicle being bought and the trade-in (raising both by $2K, for example) since most banks will not accept contracts showing negative equity.

    My point to the Jetta guy was to make educated offers instead of just pulling a number out of the air - it wastes his time to do that. What if, like I said, he actually offered too much on the '99? Then what?

    He'd come back a week later, after one of his buddies booked the rig out, then he'd be pissed!!
    The dealer would have an interesting position, as in "Look, dude, you offered us $3,500 more than we had in the ride, did you expect us to say 'No'?"
  • cherokeelmtcherokeelmt Member Posts: 22
    I sell at a Chevy, Pontiac store. We mark up our used vechiles about 3k. Depending on the car, they go out the door for no less than $1500 above what we own it for. However more times than not they go out at about $500 off the sticker or full price if the buyer gets wrapped up in how much his payment will be. As an interesting side note, A colleuge og mine had a customer offer him 28k on a brand new Suburban 4x4 LS. We had a screamer ad for 31,4k on this truck. we showed him the invoice which clearly showed about 30k that we owned it for and says the screamer ad included all rebates. He insisted we made up the invoice and that the REAL invoice was 18k! Goodbuy!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    Tell them to have a nice day.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well, it kinda sounds like you are a non-serious buyer. I guess your "offer" on that 99 that they accepted wasn't really an offer since you didn't buy the car after making the offer?

    Offering 5000.00 less than an asking price on a used car will cause your salesperson to lose interest quickly.

    jbolit, used cars are priced at roughly what the market values are. If makes no difference what the previous owner may have owed on it.

    Just like making a ridiculous offer...if a used car is priced way beyond market values, the potential buyers won't even bother making an offer. Your case was unusual and extreme.

    Same thing applies in Real Estate. Worst thing a seller can do is ask a price that is out of line.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    You say: "used cars are priced at roughly what the market values are. If makes no difference what the previous owner may have owed on it."

    With due respect, I think you may have missunderstood my point. What I meant, is that some (SOME...not ALL) dealers price their used cars high enough to be able to discount them enough to cover the buyer's (of that used vehicle) negative equity in their trade-in vehicle...not what the previous owner may have owed on that vehicle.

    I don't think you can deny that most used vehicles are priced above "the market" value to allow some negotiating room...rather than at "roughly market value."

    Things are different in different parts of the country, I agree, and my experience is based primarily in the South West...So CA, No CA, and AZ. "Someone" I know went to work for a Ford dealer selling cars "awhile" ago..was taught to "add at least $1,500 to the price" coded on the dealer's windshield stock number sticker when quoting prices to potential buyers.

    I know that there isn't $5,000 available off every used car..hardly.... Sometimes, however, a dealer WILL sell a used car at a small loss, to get the ability to make a bigger profit on a more desirable used car (to that dealer) that buyer may be trading in. Domestic dealer selling an import to a buyer trading in a domestic, as an example.

    And last, I agree that dealers are in business to make money, and the salespeople to earn a living...I would not deny both of them a profit on a purchase. I just object to extremely overpriced "asking prices."
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    I agree, but the price this guy gave on the 2000 Expedition was right at retail book, certainly not over-inflated.

    Trying to get a vehicle for $6-7K less than retail book ain't gonna' happen.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well, I don't think prices are padded in order to cover negative equity.

    I do agree that some wiggle room is added to the sticker. No matter how low the price is the buyer will always want to haggle. Nature of the business.

    Once, we made a major mistake and red tagged a used car for almost 2000.00 less than we had in it. The lot guy got the tags mixed up.

    A customer pounced on the car but made the mistake of offering less than the tag price that we agreed to honor. Even though he said he had done all of his "research" and knew it was an exceptional buy, he still wanted to grind me.

    I told him that we would eat the error but if he left, I would correct the mistake and the deal would be off. He gave me a wry grin and he left!

    Two hours later he returned. We had corrected the error and refused to sell him the car.

    Another salesperson sold it later that day for the correct sale price.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    As I said before, I have adjusted the price of a vehicle and the trade allowance to cover negative equity, but I did this with the customer in front of me and explained why the numbers were changing.

    There has to be wiggle room in any price - with some folks, they jusy have to beat you up. It's the way their old man taught them, I usually found.
  • redfive2112redfive2112 Member Posts: 15
    Another big shot outsmarts himself...

    I have a question for the group. If you are booking your car out (KBB, Edmunds or where ever) and you get to the part about the cars' condition...is this a relative thing, or is 'excellent condition' always mean showroom new?

    Example: Someone wants to sell their MY 2000 XYZ. It runs great, has low miles, regular maintenance and is always garaged. But it has a small paint chip here or there from regular driving. Is this car 'excellent' or 'good'??

    Thanks for the time,

    Scott
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    One man's opinion will differ from anothers.

    People tend to believe what they want to believe. If "The Internet" says their car is worth 8500.00, then that becomes gospel.

    Nevermind, it needs tires, has body damage and the interior looks like the car was used as a rolling cafeteria.

    And, I guess I can't blame these people. The tires that look "just fine" to them are down to 3/32nds of tread. The deep scratches in the paint that "can be touched up" will cost us 500.00 to fix properly.

    And they may have a car that is soft in the marketplace. I cringe whenever I see a Chrysler Mini-Van pull into the lot. The dealers and wholesalers simply don't want these. People are afraid of them and the market is flooded. I get bids of 3000.00 below book from a wholesaler who really doesn't even want it for that price.

    The market can shift too...almost instantly.
  • stebustebu Member Posts: 204
    Who are these dealers and wholesalers? Are the dealers who buy trade-ins that a new car store doesn't want the same person who runs a used car store down the street? And who are the wholesalers and what happens to the cars they purchase? I'm trying to figure out just how many hands and value shifts a typical used car may filter through before I see it appear on a used car lot for X-dollars.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    There are some cars that will never be booked as "excellent" no matter what their condition simply because the marketplace doesn't desire them at a high price. Like a showroom perfect Kia Sephia or most any car in a horrid color & option combo. Some cars simply will not hit this high number no matter what.

    This is one area where the marketplace frustrates the car dealer. How do you tell some guy who has lovingly maintained his 1993 Hyundai Elantra that his car is worth only "fair" book?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    either run their own used car lots, like "Uncle Bubba's Buy Here-Pay Here" and the buy the trade-ins that aren't considered a retail piece for the dealer you traded with. For instance, if they already have 4 Caravans with less than 40,000 miles, if you traded yours at 60,000, a wholesaler would buy it or they'd swap iron with another dealer.

    Also, most rides over 80,000 and everything over 100,000 miles has no place at a new car dealer's used car lot. Things break and they don't want to put their in-house 30 day warranty on something that's a guaranteed problem. Additionally, it's next to impossible to get an extended warranty on anything over 80,000 miles.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    ...although occasionally I've seen a large dealer in my area keep a couple of high mile, but super clean, unit they think they can retail for a good price. Things like 92-93 Accords with 75-80K and unrusted flanks can still do ok.

    But stuff like my 141K 91 Accord with rear end damage, clicking CV's, and no AC, not matter how shiny the paint, was going to spend any time on that lot!!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    The Honda store in Medford, OR (Lithia Auto Group) I ran F&I for had a couple of high-mileage Hondas around, just for grins. Both were trade-ins and were being retailed. An '89 Accord LX auto had 249,000 miles on it, was sharp as a tack and sold for $4,995 and a 180,000 mile '88 Civic Si went for $4,250.

    We had both just to prove that Hondas last forever with proper care (like most cars).
  • candyman85233candyman85233 Member Posts: 43
    ...there are other items, other than invoice, to consider. Tonight I see Chrysler has some other things going on, like 1000 matching down and 1000 rebate. So now, its 2000? When it was 1500 yesterday! (Is this on the Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2002 model?)? That is when I get confused with what I should offer. I feel a 2002 is worth 23000 +TTL, but NOT dealer doc fees. Are there any dealers out there that can tell me if that is reasonable right now?
This discussion has been closed.