It SHOULDN'T make a difference, but it does. During the last few days, the sales managers are trying to reach preset goals and the salespeople are trying to hit bonus bogies. So, yes, it pays to buy towards the end of the month.
is absolutely right....I always get my best deals on around the last days of the month. Now what I have figured out is if you really want a out of sight deal wait until the day before Christmas or within that week sometime.
To avoid salespeople and salesmanagers sleeping until the last week of the month, our dealership has instituted "fast-start" bonuses. This encourages aggressive deal taking at the beginning of the month as well as at the end. This works great for spreading the business throughout the month and also keeps everyone sharp as they do not fall into the trap of waiting for the last week to make deals.
don't leave that one out....my perception is Tuesdays are the best days or whenever you drive by and see a huge crowd of salesmen sitting outside yacking at each other if you insist on making a deal right then and there at the dealership. Personally I always make my deals by phone, fax, or email. What do you guys think. Personally I would never try to make a deal on a weekend. To much competition during weekends.
I first posted this topic around March 25 and I appreciate the response I got. I should finally be getting my car tomorrow. Originally I had to pay a little extra to get the car I wanted from NE to OK. However, it turns out the NE dealer refused to trade last week so my dealer searched for another dealer to do business with. Finally he found my car in TX. Now, if this TX dealer is closer than the NE dealer, does this mean I should not have paid the extra money for the freight expense? I have already paid for the car and signed my papers so what should I do?
Yes, you will likely have to pay for transportation from the dealer in TX who has your car to the dealer from whom you are purchasing, unless the purchasing dealer is willing to transport for free; that's between you and your purchasing dealer to negotiate.
Everyone pays the mfr destination charges regardless of where they live, who they are, what they're buying, or what dealer they buy from. For example, Chevy mfr's the Venture minivan in Doraville, GA, a suburb of Atlanta. There is a Chevy dealer about 2 miles away. If I buy a Venture from that dealer I still pay the full destination charge eventhough I am within walking distance of the factory. That's the way it works and there ain't no way of gittin' round it.
If I'm reading you right, you're hoping to get a credit for a lower dealer-to-dealer transport charge. If that's the case, I thinking you're talking about $50-$100 max; and my guess is that your dealer will see that as trivial and may argue that it took that amount in staff time to locate the 2nd car. Rather than getting tied up in something like this, I'd spend my energy looking over the car carefully when you take delivery. The dealer actually performed a service for you in getting the specific car you wanted, and I'd make sure the car is in 'brand spanking new' shape rather than in quibbling over $20-$50-$100.
Actually it sounds like your dealer didn't actually have the car from NE but you had paid for it. He didn't actually fulfill the contract. The cost of getting it to you from TX may be less. Ask the dealer for an adjustment or he voided the deal from the NE dealer. He might have had to search more for a car, but you paid already for an additional delivery charge from NE, so what's the cost for driving a car from TX to OK?
No, not until a car fitting the description of what the consumer purchased is delivered. Quibbling over $20-30 bucks is silly - there's no contractural issues at all. In actuality, it shouldn't matter WHERE the car comes from (within reason).
One thing that I do if a dealer has to do a locate for me out of state is have the auto trailered in. Remember the more miles they put on it the less it will be worth to you if you decided to trade it in sooner than later. Just a thought.
A few miles I have to agree but when we are talking about 300-1000 or more miles it can make a difference. Really I guess its just up to the opinion of the dealer that your dealing with. Everyone knows that it is harder to sell a brand new vehicle with a bunch of miles on it than it is with only a few. Personally when I buy a new vehicle I want no more than 50 test drive miles on it. If the dealer doesn't have one I will look elsewhere or wait for the dealer to get one. Again all this is only my opinion.
.... Your kinda missing the idea here .. they are on a "2 state search", if they are not around, there are not around ... that's why they are either dealer trading, or just "chasing" the vehicle.
Buy the way, you still haven't my answered my question, what do you do to purchase 150 vehicles a month.
I see your point and let me say I really do enjoy your advice that you give on Edmunds. I have learned a great deal from you. Snowful says he will be getting his vehicle from TX. Looks like anyways. If he has the dealer drive it from TX to Oklahoma depending on which part of TX the dealer is picking it up from then most likely your looking at around 300 miles or so on your new vehicle. My point being is I would never buy a NEW vehicle with so many miles on it.
Now about my job title. Well lets just say that I use to help people within three states and business was good but after I redone my website and took a different approach to my business and teamed up with another company out of Oklahoma City I decided to go nationwide. After I did that business has evolved tremoundously. Sorry to be indirect but if I said what I did directly I would get alot of critisizm. And I don't want to argue with dealers on this site no more. Like I said earlier I am only here to learn from the pro's and say my two cents every once in a while. I enjoy reading what you guys write.
Also, since everyone is driving around Texas and OK, I just found a pair of boots I like - never mind, they only have stores in Ca and Nevada .. -- hey, kill 2 birds with 1 stone, right.?
lol...but I am through arguing with you all. Not going to live the past anymore. Don't need to. So have your opinions. But like I said I am doing very well and I have helped alot of people so far. I like what I do and that is all that matters.
One more thing my company is a far cry from a pyramid scheme and the company that I have hooked up with sells quality used autos to the public at cost plus a small fee. They have never sold a used auto over blue book trade in value. One reason why we have become so successful I guess.
nice to see you again. This guy is a hard critic but well informed and I have learned a ton from reading his post. Don't worry zues not here to hassle anymore.
I know what your talking about.....I remember those days of Amway to. But I own this company about the most I do is give a customer a $25 bonus for referring a client to me. I have no one actually working under me. Now the company that I am partners with now that actually sells used auto's he has 10 guys nation wide that acts as buyers for him. All I do for him is send people his way and I get a finders fee for it paid out of his pocket. It doesn't cost my clients a dime. Not a bad service.
I saw in a previous post from a year ago that you said avoid CNA National Warranty at all costs. I bought a new 3 series BMW this weekend and to my surprise, there is no "BMW" company extended warranty. CNA is what teh F&I guy offered, and at a high price as well! What options do I have if I definitely want some sort of coverage after my manufacturer's warranty runs out?
LOL! Hey no disrespect, we all have to make a living. I had an autoland rep call me. He saw a used vehicle we had on the net, and wanted us to sell it to his C.U. member. We were to pay them a $500 fee. Whooo weee! $500 is a lot of money don't ya think for making a few phone calls. Hey they're hiring I wonder if I qualify?
.... Ok, I got it .. I really don't care what folks do, or how they do it, as long as it's legal and no-one get's hurt, and they don't drop 5,392 post's about how this or that happens, when it doesn't ~~ so proceed.
I have to agree that quibbling over $20-30 is silly and that's why the dealer should adjust the price -- it shouldn't matter to him.
Where the car comes from DOES make a difference as pointed out in the posts after mine because of mileage and how it got on there. I don't want a car with hundreds of miles on it. I bought, for the first time, a car the dealer had to trade for. When he found the car, he determined the miles would be 100 by the time it got to his store. He verified with me that was okay. He told me the history of the 100 miles. After the car was in the dealership (he drove it inside so I could look at it and brush the snow off), then I paid. So any adjustment in value would have been made at that time. I did not pay for a car he did not have, therefore he fulfilled his contract. I bought 6 new cars from this dealer because they're honest. After dealing with others earlier that weren't honest or ethical at times, I have referred lots of business to this dealer.
offer an extended warranty - it's the same BMW plan type on their certified used vehicles. I guarantee the guy would be making a bunch more money on the CNA than the BMW contract.
This is just to clarify my problem from earlier - I don't think I spelled it out to clearly since there was some confusion. Originally I had negotiated a great price on a car, but the car was in Kansas, I'm in OK. The KS dealer wouldn't trade, so the next closest dealer was in NE. My dealer said it would cost more to get the car from NE - he said something like $1400 more, but I would only have to pay an extra $500. So I added $500 to our negotiated price to get the car from NE. A week later, I found out the NE dealer wouldn't trade either so the dealer finally got the car from TX - potentially closer to OK, therefore reducing this extra transportation cost. So I am paying $460 for destination (of which I never had a problem with because I understand destination charges) plus the $500 in extra transportation costs to get this car (on trailor). I just wanted to get opinions if this was right or if maybe I should try to reduce the $500 charge. I know it largely depends on where in TX it came from. Anyway, I appreciate all the feedback I've received - sorry that this topic keeps dragging on!
If they got the car from Dallas, Sherman, Plano, Carrollton, etc, it might not cost much - if they got it from San Antone, Houston or other areas, you're talking about an overnighter and all those expenses. Trailering the car (the right way to do it) does cost more money.
but why on Earth wouldn't BMW offer an extended warranty, both for new and used, considering the cost of parts alone? I'd definitely want an extended warranty if I were buying a 2-3 year old BMW. But I'd never buy an aftermarket warranty...
Thanks for the added info. I kinda thought that's where you were coming from. I've got no clue as to what the actual cost of transporting a car is, but that $1400 sounds like mega hooey to me. LOL, I poked around and found that freight companies charge in that range to ship (literally) a car to Hawaii. So, I bet the dealer is even gouging some on the $500.
My straight take is that you've negotiated the deal and now is not the time to try to renegotiate that transport charge. Just to gauge it, though, I'd compare the mileage figure for the two trips and apply that percentage to $400 (which allows $50 for getting the car on and off the transporter).
Truly, instead of getting caught up in a struggle over that kind of money, I'd spend the time, energy, and attention inspecting the car. LOL, one poster caught some flack for suggesting that one 'get down on your belly' to check for damage; but, IMO, his suggestion was a good one.
usually, larger dealer groups have a dually and a nice 1,2 or 3 car trailer and a retired guy to drive it. Costs a little more, but less chance for suspension abuse.
We need a new shipper! A flatbed costs us $1/mile round trip, so effectively @4/mile. I've had $1200 chargebacks out of DC!!! Even to pay a dealer trade driver to Memphis can cost $150 or more (depending on gas). A rollback would be about $700...... Sounds like we're overpaying!
You DO need a new shipper. A buck a mile becomes $4/mile? The flatbed driver comes over empty to pick up the contract, goes home to get the car, transports the car, goes home, right?
P.S. If ya'll are paying a trade driver $150 Memphis <-> K-town, sign me up. I'm serious.
Comments
Thanks!
It SHOULDN'T make a difference, but it does. During the last few days, the sales managers are trying to reach preset goals and the salespeople are trying to hit bonus bogies. So, yes, it pays to buy towards the end of the month.
Everyone pays the mfr destination charges regardless of where they live, who they are, what they're buying, or what dealer they buy from. For example, Chevy mfr's the Venture minivan in Doraville, GA, a suburb of Atlanta. There is a Chevy dealer about 2 miles away. If I buy a Venture from that dealer I still pay the full destination charge eventhough I am within walking distance of the factory. That's the way it works and there ain't no way of gittin' round it.
Rather than getting tied up in something like this, I'd spend my energy looking over the car carefully when you take delivery. The dealer actually performed a service for you in getting the specific car you wanted, and I'd make sure the car is in 'brand spanking new' shape rather than in quibbling over $20-$50-$100.
for it. He didn't actually fulfill the contract. The cost of getting it to you from TX may be
less. Ask the dealer for an adjustment or he voided the deal from the NE dealer. He
might have had to search more for a car, but you paid already for an additional delivery
charge from NE, so what's the cost for driving a car from TX to OK?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The dealer says they're not.
Humph. Quite a puzzler.
If it's all the same to the dealer, gimme the one 20 miles on the odo over the one with with 220.
A couple hundred miles? Depends on whether they were tallied by a retiree swap-driver or a bunch of kids test-driving the car.
Terry.
Buy the way, you still haven't my answered my question, what do you do to purchase 150 vehicles a month.
Terry.
Now about my job title. Well lets just say that I use to help people within three states and business was good but after I redone my website and took a different approach to my business and teamed up with another company out of Oklahoma City I decided to go nationwide. After I did that business has evolved tremoundously. Sorry to be indirect but if I said what I did directly I would get alot of critisizm. And I don't want to argue with dealers on this site no more. Like I said earlier I am only here to learn from the pro's and say my two cents every once in a while. I enjoy reading what you guys write.
Also, since everyone is driving around Texas and OK, I just found a pair of boots I like - never mind, they only have stores in Ca and Nevada .. -- hey, kill 2 birds with 1 stone, right.?
Terry.
It should be obvious but I guess not.
Most have disappeared but there are a few still out there?
My wife just rented some commercial space to one of their branches.
It's a shame that no military people ever really get to "make it" - the only people who profit are the folks at the top - typical pyramid scene.
This guy has bought into it and I wish him the best, but the track record for things like this prove other than "great".
One more thing my company is a far cry from a pyramid scheme and the company that I have hooked up with sells quality used autos to the public at cost plus a small fee. They have never sold a used auto over blue book trade in value. One reason why we have become so successful I guess.
As a supervisor, it was really hard to deal with.
Thanks in advance!
Go Horns!!
Terry.
Where the car comes from DOES make a difference as pointed out in the posts after mine because of mileage and how it got on there. I don't want a car with hundreds of miles on it.
I bought, for the first time, a car the dealer had to trade for. When he found the car, he determined the miles would be 100 by the time it got to his store. He verified with me that was okay. He told me the history of the 100 miles. After the car was in the dealership (he drove it inside so I could look at it and brush the snow off), then I paid. So any adjustment in value would have been made at that time. I did not pay for a car he did not have, therefore he fulfilled his contract. I bought 6 new cars from this dealer because they're honest. After dealing with others earlier that weren't honest or ethical at times, I have referred lots of business to this dealer.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Rivertown - this is actually my fiancee's car and mine is still up for sale. Few lookers but everybody is scared of how beautiful it is!! LOL
Take care all, will keep you updated!
This is just to clarify my problem from earlier - I don't think I spelled it out to clearly since there was some confusion. Originally I had negotiated a great price on a car, but the car was in Kansas, I'm in OK. The KS dealer wouldn't trade, so the next closest dealer was in NE. My dealer said it would cost more to get the car from NE - he said something like $1400 more, but I would only have to pay an extra $500. So I added $500 to our negotiated price to get the car from NE. A week later, I found out the NE dealer wouldn't trade either so the dealer finally got the car from TX - potentially closer to OK, therefore reducing this extra transportation cost. So I am paying $460 for destination (of which I never had a problem with because I understand destination charges) plus the $500 in extra transportation costs to get this car (on trailor). I just wanted to get opinions if this was right or if maybe I should try to reduce the $500 charge. I know it largely depends on where in TX it came from. Anyway, I appreciate all the feedback I've received - sorry that this topic keeps dragging on!
The Certified Pre-Owned program is the only warranty available to my knowledge.
I've got no clue as to what the actual cost of transporting a car is, but that $1400 sounds like mega hooey to me. LOL, I poked around and found that freight companies charge in that range to ship (literally) a car to Hawaii. So, I bet the dealer is even gouging some on the $500.
My straight take is that you've negotiated the deal and now is not the time to try to renegotiate that transport charge. Just to gauge it, though, I'd compare the mileage figure for the two trips and apply that percentage to $400 (which allows $50 for getting the car on and off the transporter).
Truly, instead of getting caught up in a struggle over that kind of money, I'd spend the time, energy, and attention inspecting the car. LOL, one poster caught some flack for suggesting that one 'get down on your belly' to check for damage; but, IMO, his suggestion was a good one.
Or, you could rely on the dealer to catch, fix, and disclose any fluky damage taken anywhere along the supply chain.
CAn you explain these for me please?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
P.S. If ya'll are paying a trade driver $150 Memphis <-> K-town, sign me up. I'm serious.