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Comments
Thanks!
It SHOULDN'T make a difference, but it does. During the last few days, the sales managers are trying to reach preset goals and the salespeople are trying to hit bonus bogies. So, yes, it pays to buy towards the end of the month.
Everyone pays the mfr destination charges regardless of where they live, who they are, what they're buying, or what dealer they buy from. For example, Chevy mfr's the Venture minivan in Doraville, GA, a suburb of Atlanta. There is a Chevy dealer about 2 miles away. If I buy a Venture from that dealer I still pay the full destination charge eventhough I am within walking distance of the factory. That's the way it works and there ain't no way of gittin' round it.
Rather than getting tied up in something like this, I'd spend my energy looking over the car carefully when you take delivery. The dealer actually performed a service for you in getting the specific car you wanted, and I'd make sure the car is in 'brand spanking new' shape rather than in quibbling over $20-$50-$100.
for it. He didn't actually fulfill the contract. The cost of getting it to you from TX may be
less. Ask the dealer for an adjustment or he voided the deal from the NE dealer. He
might have had to search more for a car, but you paid already for an additional delivery
charge from NE, so what's the cost for driving a car from TX to OK?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The dealer says they're not.
Humph. Quite a puzzler.
If it's all the same to the dealer, gimme the one 20 miles on the odo over the one with with 220.
A couple hundred miles? Depends on whether they were tallied by a retiree swap-driver or a bunch of kids test-driving the car.
Terry.
Buy the way, you still haven't my answered my question, what do you do to purchase 150 vehicles a month.
Terry.
Now about my job title. Well lets just say that I use to help people within three states and business was good but after I redone my website and took a different approach to my business and teamed up with another company out of Oklahoma City I decided to go nationwide. After I did that business has evolved tremoundously. Sorry to be indirect but if I said what I did directly I would get alot of critisizm. And I don't want to argue with dealers on this site no more. Like I said earlier I am only here to learn from the pro's and say my two cents every once in a while. I enjoy reading what you guys write.
Also, since everyone is driving around Texas and OK, I just found a pair of boots I like - never mind, they only have stores in Ca and Nevada .. -- hey, kill 2 birds with 1 stone, right.?
Terry.
It should be obvious but I guess not.
Most have disappeared but there are a few still out there?
My wife just rented some commercial space to one of their branches.
It's a shame that no military people ever really get to "make it" - the only people who profit are the folks at the top - typical pyramid scene.
This guy has bought into it and I wish him the best, but the track record for things like this prove other than "great".
One more thing my company is a far cry from a pyramid scheme and the company that I have hooked up with sells quality used autos to the public at cost plus a small fee. They have never sold a used auto over blue book trade in value. One reason why we have become so successful I guess.
As a supervisor, it was really hard to deal with.
Thanks in advance!
Go Horns!!
Terry.
Where the car comes from DOES make a difference as pointed out in the posts after mine because of mileage and how it got on there. I don't want a car with hundreds of miles on it.
I bought, for the first time, a car the dealer had to trade for. When he found the car, he determined the miles would be 100 by the time it got to his store. He verified with me that was okay. He told me the history of the 100 miles. After the car was in the dealership (he drove it inside so I could look at it and brush the snow off), then I paid. So any adjustment in value would have been made at that time. I did not pay for a car he did not have, therefore he fulfilled his contract. I bought 6 new cars from this dealer because they're honest. After dealing with others earlier that weren't honest or ethical at times, I have referred lots of business to this dealer.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Rivertown - this is actually my fiancee's car and mine is still up for sale. Few lookers but everybody is scared of how beautiful it is!! LOL
Take care all, will keep you updated!
This is just to clarify my problem from earlier - I don't think I spelled it out to clearly since there was some confusion. Originally I had negotiated a great price on a car, but the car was in Kansas, I'm in OK. The KS dealer wouldn't trade, so the next closest dealer was in NE. My dealer said it would cost more to get the car from NE - he said something like $1400 more, but I would only have to pay an extra $500. So I added $500 to our negotiated price to get the car from NE. A week later, I found out the NE dealer wouldn't trade either so the dealer finally got the car from TX - potentially closer to OK, therefore reducing this extra transportation cost. So I am paying $460 for destination (of which I never had a problem with because I understand destination charges) plus the $500 in extra transportation costs to get this car (on trailor). I just wanted to get opinions if this was right or if maybe I should try to reduce the $500 charge. I know it largely depends on where in TX it came from. Anyway, I appreciate all the feedback I've received - sorry that this topic keeps dragging on!
The Certified Pre-Owned program is the only warranty available to my knowledge.
I've got no clue as to what the actual cost of transporting a car is, but that $1400 sounds like mega hooey to me. LOL, I poked around and found that freight companies charge in that range to ship (literally) a car to Hawaii. So, I bet the dealer is even gouging some on the $500.
My straight take is that you've negotiated the deal and now is not the time to try to renegotiate that transport charge. Just to gauge it, though, I'd compare the mileage figure for the two trips and apply that percentage to $400 (which allows $50 for getting the car on and off the transporter).
Truly, instead of getting caught up in a struggle over that kind of money, I'd spend the time, energy, and attention inspecting the car. LOL, one poster caught some flack for suggesting that one 'get down on your belly' to check for damage; but, IMO, his suggestion was a good one.
Or, you could rely on the dealer to catch, fix, and disclose any fluky damage taken anywhere along the supply chain.
CAn you explain these for me please?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
P.S. If ya'll are paying a trade driver $150 Memphis <-> K-town, sign me up. I'm serious.