You keep saying that, but its truely impossible for me to get a new car in the next 6 weeks. All of our extra money is going into our business and without a big down I'm not going to be trading the Explorer anytime in the next several years.
Um, not a log splitter, what we are buying a processor......we already have a splitter.
The processor takes a log (usually 8 foot length) and cuts it to whatever length we set it to, then splits each piece 4 ways, then runs them up a conveyor belt into a pile where we want it. Basically takes the place of a chainsaw cutting each piece to length (thus saving the back of the person running it) and a log splitter (again saving the back of the person running it).
LOL, that's what I get for responding before I've had my coffee. I don't pay much attention to stuff like that at Home Depot. In fact we rarely go in there........all our money seems to be spent at a certain saw shop and various logging catalogs.
We have been running a firewood business for 4 years now, just figure it time to step it up a notch. My husband also falls trees for a logging operation so has access to the slash piles for firewood. We want to get into hauling short logs (for the logging business since the guy usually leaves them out there) and up the production of our firewood business. Gotta spend money to make money.
What the heck kind of language is that ..?!? .. I just go up to my fireplace, turn a valve and light it with a 12" Scripto ~ and "Phooof" you have fire ... is there any other way.?
Um, I dunno, I still do it the old fashioned way with a lighter, newspaper, and kindling.
We actually own a firewood business, just want to expand it and make some more $$$$. Firewood is an easy product to sell in Alaska.......almost everyone has a woodstove......we certainly do and its nice and toasty right now in the house.
Some salespeople go on the test drives, others do not, and some dealerships let people take the car home overnight!
Is there any special way a dealership decides which way to go?
I've always been curious about this, but what really piqued my curiosity this time was: a Kia salesperson told me when I was ready to test drive the Sedona, I could take it for the afternoon and see how it fits. That surprised me.
Aside from some legalities it comes down to dealer policy. Most dealers want a salesperson along on the test drive at the very least to monitor customer behavior. Some dealers will sign you out on a car w/ a form like a rental agreement where you agree to pay for any and all damages you may incur. Some just don't care.
none would allow a car out without a salesperson, unless they would have it overnight. my current dealer doesnt even do extended drives. about 5 years ago, we did, and someone took a car for an overnighter and crashed. the entire family died in the crash.
everyone assumes the driver's insurance will cover everything, but after a bunch of legalese, they didnt, and ours did. from then on, if customers are to be allowed with a car, a dealer employee MUST be present.
A little of both when it comes to test drives. A few years ago I had a pretty good relationship with the Nissan/VW/Honda dealer and was allowed to bring cars home (200 miles round trip).
Lately though (well, when we bought the Dodge and were looking for a new SUV) the salesman has always gone with us. Fine by me, not like I'm going to go out and hot rod the thing. While looking at the Mazda Tribute and Pontiac Vibe I didn't mind the salesman going with.....he is after all a very close friend and fun to be around.
When I went to pick up my new Explorer the salesman asked me if I wanted to test drive it before signing, I just said no, signed the papers and left. Haven't regretted it either, its been a great little truck.
Of course a dealership would let you test drive a car overnite. They knew with your track record that you'd be good for a sale a year so they wanted to stay on your good side. :-) I hope your daughter is doing okay and that you are still listening to your hubby.
thinking about buying an Acura TL in the next couple months. live in the midwest with two dealers in town and three within 3 hours drive. i've visited the two in town. they know i'm interested, but not yet commited to the TL. i like the popular colors. i can check their inventory on the net, but not sure how accurate. The TMV is $2000 over invoice. i think $1000 is fair- and better. should i call the out of town places or contact them online?, then use their offers on the local lots. if i do, do i need to do this all in one day? since there are only 2 dealers, i'd like to donwplay my commitment to the TL and express my commitment to the best deal. good strategies? thx for help.
I have to admit, I chuckled when I hear you refer to your Explorer as a "great little truck" (emphasis mine).
We recently traded in our '02 Explorer for a Focus and doubled our gas mileage -- the Explorer is huge in comparison.
Re: test drives -- did a few test drives a couple of weeks ago after the auto show was in town. We were with another couple who were in the market for a new car; my wife and I were tagging along for the most part.
#1 Hyundai dealer - the other couple had a salesman accompany them when they test drove the Santa Fe (2WD GLS w/ V6). We wanted to drive the LX model with leather and the 3.5L V6; the salesman threw us the keys and told us to enjoy.
#2 Mitsubishi dealer - both we and our friends were able to drive the Outlander (separately)without a salesman.
#3 Pontiac dealer - the four of us test drove a Vibe together; again, no salesman (I don't think he would have fit in the back seat with us).
So, like has been said above, I suspect it is up to the dealer. But, for the dealers who make the decision to accompany sometimes and not others, do you think that it depends upon the prospective customer and the vehicle they want to test?
(example -- youngish looking single male wanting to test drive a WRX or Mustang vs. an older couple looking at a Camry or Accord)
I wondered about that: how someone, or a couple, looks, especially considering the car they want. (Like your examples above.) I had my son with me at the Kia Dealer while waiting for my car; I've gone alone elsewhere. I look younger than I am, too.
I've often wondered if appearances mean that much ... I'm sure they do!
I wish I could help on the negotiations but I'm the worst person in that regard.
****I have to admit, I chuckled when I hear you refer to your Explorer as a "great little truck" (emphasis mine).****
Compared to our 1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually V10 4x4 truck my Explorer is a *little truck*.
Last winter I was driving around in a 1990 Suburban, lifted 4" with 35" tires, so again, the Explorer is small to me.
I almost bought a Focus when we were replacing my 97 Explorer.......but I couldn't go that small. I really wanted something at least the size of an Expedition, but settled on another Explorer. No regrets, I like my truck.....even more now that it pulled a friend's Chevy out of the ditch. *Grin*
wondered why people dont do more to make themselves presentable when they buy a car. when you look at a house, dont you improve your appearance? your appearance has ALOT to do with negotiations.
personally, i dont prejudge someone when they are shopping, but if you are going to negotiate with THOUSANDS of dollars...
Oh, I totally understand ... given your family's proclivity towards large 4WD pickups, I can see where you feel the Explorer is small.
And, having visited Anchorage once some years ago, I can understand the need to have something with a bit of ground clearance -- to deal with the elements. I can't see how you lived with a Jetta in that climate.
Our family is moving away from large SUVs (before the Explorer, we had an Expedition) and towards smaller, more fuel efficient cars (the Focus, my Saturn L300 and a VW New Beetle that our son is currently driving).
I have to agree with you. In a former life, I used to have to wear and suit and tie to work and I travelled frequently. I would stop by local car dealerships when I was on the road to look at the new models.
When I was dressed up, I was treated with more respect, generally speaking.
My wife's step-father, OTOH, bought his last two cars (an Eldorado and a Jeep Grand Cherokee) with cash and looked like a slob both times -- in fact, I think he told me that he had a "green pea" sell him the JGC since the other salesman avoided him.
It's always the current market that determines pricing and not what you think to be "fair".
I have no idea what the supply vs. demand situation is in the midwest but here on the west coast, Acura TL's are far from being "invoice up" cars. You really might want to concentrate on the car's value to you rather than on what the dealer paid for it.
...... Isell makes some very good points here .. there seems to be a very big demand for the TL's, so I would be first concerned with a close and quality service dept and then the price .. I doubt you will be seeing any $1,000 over deals in the Mid-west ..
......... Appearance can make a difference - and a big mistake if the salesperson "jumps" to conclusions on a potential buyer .. you can never tell a "book" by it's cover, I have sold alot of $50/$60,000 vehicles to folks with holes in their socks and plaid shorts .......
I work at home and wear sweats most of the time - I'll throw on my Nikes or Adidas and go to the corner store (Wawa) for coffee for my wife and diet coke for me.
I run into lots of people - this store is always busy. I'm a friendly guy, so I'll speak to anyone, at least acknowldging the presence of another human being, a forgotten art in these parts. Most "more important" people (yuppies) don't even make eye contact when I'm wearing a hoodie sweatshirt, baggy sweatpants and sneaks.
Yesterday, I had to go to court to testify - I was wearing a fairly new dark olive suit, nice tie, and shiny brown shoes. Same store, same products, roughly the same time - a guy who had driven up in a European import sedan immediately acknowldged me, saying "hi". I mean, not only am I in PA where folks aren't know for being overly friendly, especially the closer you get to Philly, but a young urban professional actually made eye contact and spoke to me.
If I was wearing my favorite hoodie, I doubt he would have.
Now, that being said, how you are judged, and YOU ARE, whether you like it or not, bears strongly on the way you're treated, both in greeting and in negotiations.
I've tried to dress down when buying a car, but I found that getting respect for my negotiating skills was tough.
In a suit or nice casual attire, that skill was assumed, it seemed, and negotiations went very easily.
My Jetta did amazingly well and it too traveled the logging roads....good thing the UCM didn't look close at the bottom of it.....oi, dirt and mud all over the place. I still miss that little car.....and the 30+ mpg.
On the other hand, my Explorer has proved to be the perfect vehicle and it better plan on staying that way for a long time. I'll be luck to be able to afford to pay attention after hubby gets done dumping all kinds of cash into our business.
I thought I was bad about spending......he's looking at either a $32k log trailer (I'm trying to talk him out of that since its so big and heavy I think it will flat kill our V10) or a $25k short log hauler truck (small semi).
4) Go to the dealer of your choice and make your offer. If it is refused, then leave and come back here for some more advice.
From my experience, your offer will almost certainly be refused. However, when you walk to the door to leave, there is a good chance they will change their mind and accept your offer.
I hope you enjoy the whole car buying experience. If you don't, then you are doing something wrong.
..... The problem with your advice is: TL's are FAR from distressed merchandise, most dealers have a waiting list and spring has sprung in the Mid-west .....
Not everyone is looking for an RSX that can be bought for a few hundred over, minus the dealer cash, they weren't big sellers when you bought yours and they have been on a decline ever since ...............
had an episode where Dr. Huxtable dresses down to go buy a car. He has on his most ripped up sweats in order to convince the dealer that he does not have alot of money and thus they will not gouge him. I think in the end he end up overpaying.
I'll admit that I am not personally all that familiar with the market for this car in the Midwestern U.S., but at least on the East and West coasts most Acura dealers have tons of Acura TLs on their lots, almost too many. I have spoken with many dealers who definitely would sell TLs right now for say $500 over invoice just to move some inventory. Don't get me wrong, I have always liked the TL and think that Acura did a fantastic job with the 2004 model, but it is hardly a vehicle that should be selling for full MSRP or even close to it.
Where did you get the idea that I thought TLs were distressed merchandise?
I have no idea how much they should cost. If I was going to buy one, I would do a lot of research first to get a good idea what they are selling for. Then I would compute my offer and see if they would accept it.
........... Settle down, I wasn't picking on you ..
I understand what your saying, only because I have read a bunch of your posts .l.o.l.. I just meant that sometimes you have to watch the market and see what it does before you send someone out .. right now, Acura dealers are killing themselves at the auctions to keep these in stock, there seeing just about invoice with 2/3k, their paying the moon for them, so obviously they have a home for em' ....
Not what I've been hearing. Quite the contrary at least in my neck of the woods. It seems that Acura really hit the mark this time with the redesigned TL.
RSX's are another story...hard merchandise to move.
I think it depends on the configuration. Seems to me, from reading the boards, that what is sitting on dealers lots are non-nav automatics. But if you want nav or, god forbid, a stick, then you are on the wait list.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm in the midwest...sort of.. If you want a TL non-Navi, automatic, both local dealers have at least 30 on the lot. And anecdotal evidence would say they are selling for about $1K over invoice. I profess no knowledge beyond my little corner of the world, though.
But, hey, on another note... Local highline used car dealer has two virtually brand-new BMW 645i. One coupe and one convertible. Naturally, asking over MSRP. Why do dealers send these through the auctions, when there are waiting lists for them?
1) How do I avoid answering those probing questions: do you want to lease/buy (I'll say undecided), do you have a trade-in, what monthly payment are you looking for?
I DO shop based on the monthly payment! But I'm trying to be different this time. Tips always recommend avoiding these questions 'til after you negotiate the purchase price, but in my limited experience, the salesperson always asks these immediately!
2) Regarding Lease Terms (realize this may be for the lease board): my credit report shows I owe $14K for my Bravada, but I only have so many months left @ 356/mo, so don't I use the amount I only have left to pay in the lease calculators?
Lease/Buy - In general leasing isn't a great deal unless a manufacturer is really subsidizing the lease. Just say no to leasing. Just for fun compare, for example, a 36 month lease payment to a 60 month purchase payment. You can always sell your car after 36 months if you get tired of it.
Response to what payment did you have in mind - Just say as close to zero as possible.
Trade in - Its up to you. Just know what your car is REALLY worth and know that you could sell it yourself for $1000-$1500 more than any dealer will give you for it. Also beware of the getting a great trade-in price at the expense of a higher new car price or high interest rates on a loan.
Knowledge is power - Some numbers to keep in mind are $20 per thousand (or so) for a new car loan at 60 months. So if you buy a car for $22k and put $2k down your payment is around $400. loan amount = 22-2k = 20k. Loan payment is then 20 times 20 or $400 a month. Bring a small calculator with you. If you trade in your car and get some equity out of it then take that off the loan. So if you get a net of $5k for your trade your new loan drops to $20-$5 = $15k which gives you a payment of $300 a month.
Know these numbers like the back of your hand before you start negotiations.
Also talk to your bank/credit union BEFORE you go to buy a car to know what rate you can get financed at. You'll usually pay more for financing at the dealer. So based on the bank rate you'll know how much car you can afford (or chose to afford).
If your current lease hasn't expired yet it will cost you EXTRA to get out of the lease regardless of what the salesman says. My advice is to wait until the lease expires to buy a new car.
those probing questions help the salesperson find you the right car and not waste everyone time.....we see people who come in want to test drive a new $60K navigator and after the test drive say I want to put down $2000 and get my payments at $300 per month. LOL You would be amazed that some of the brightest people in the world don't put an ounce of thinking into things like monthly payments vs the price of the car....or they do their own numbers and forget to include the payoff of the trade...of they don't realize that they owe $7000 more than the car is worth....etc. Also, how you pay for the car will determin incentives. Rebates vs. special finance rates.
If you do your homework, continue to get help on here....things should go pretty well. One of the most important things I can suggest is get a referral to a dealership and salesperson who a friend or co-worker purchased from and had a good experience. This makes things alot easier than playing salesperson and dealership roulette.
I believe they run popular cars through the auction because they can sometimes get over sticker for them, so you end up seeing effectively brand new cars on the lot of a different makes dealer. You are correct that it is odd to see if there really is a waiting list/over MSRP situation. I'm sure that Terry can give a better explanation, but for whatever reason, the dealer wanted them sold quick, and the auction is where they went.
For SUV-FAN, just don't answer questions you don't want to (or more accurately, brush them off). Just say you want to concentrate on the selling price, and will discuss finance options later. Same for the trade. Not that many people do it this way, but it does make it clear exactly what you are paying for the car and financing, and getting for your trade.
i think there's a lot to be said about referrals. #1 the salesman will see you as a more serious prospect than a walk in. #2 the process should be more pleasant because he will not want to alienate the guy that referred you. #3 your attitude will be better because you won't feel like you're going to be ripped off. this is only an assumption, but i think salesmen will work harder to make a do-able deal with a referral.
How do you know what your used car is REALLY worth? Are you relying on what you read on the internet? Are you looking at ads for similar cars in the newspaper and assuming that's what they are "going for"?
A lot of cars are way soft of book while other hot cars will often command more than wholesale.
Assuming you really can get 1000.00 more by selling it yourself, do you really want to assume that much trouble, time and risk?
Here in WA, we have a whopping 9.1% sales tax on cars. We also have a sales tax credit that applies.
This means if a seller is looking for 10,000 for his used car and a dealer only offers 9000.00, they would "save" 181.00 assuming they could really get the 10,000 they are looking for.
This doesn't count the price of the ad, the fun of sitting by the phone, waiting for no shows and dealing with non serious shoppers.
Then there's the buyer who will take you to small claims court six months later when the automatic transmission fails.
I don't disagree with anything that you posted. I agree that the REAL price is probably less than the book price.
However I stand by my post that you can probably (exceptions of course) sell your car for $1000 to $1500 more than a dealer will give you for trade in less all the fees and effort. Is it worth it ?? That's up to the owner.
With respect to sales tax, I suspect that many dealers (yours excluded) are well aware of the traders dilemma and price their offer accordingly to capture at least some of the sales tax equity.
I prepared income taxes for one of the young phenoms that I work with. When I was done with his taxes, his refund was about $1500 higher than what he originally calculated. He had forgotten about the carryforward of capital losses from the prior year.
Some people would say that they can do their own taxes. And some of them get it right ... sometimes. Is the $200-300 worth it? You decide.
Currently, I have a couple of cars to sell. I will probably do it myself. I would be happy to unload them to a dealer. However, my experience with the few that will give you a cash bid in this area offer me about $1000-1500 BELOW THE AUCTION PRICE that Terry gives me. If they would give me the auction price, both parties would probably come out ahead.
if i ask those 2 questions, i can more accurately point you to a vehicle that will work.
example:
"mr. suv_fan, do you plan to finance or lease?"
"finance."
"ok. what does your budget allow for your next vehicle?"
"$350/mo."
"ok, how much money do you have to put down?"
"$1500"
now, knowing that you need a vehicle with 7 passenger capacity, i would point you to a 2-3 year old domestic minivan. windstar, caravan, venture, etc...
if you refuse to answer or you duck the questions, i might show you a new quest or odyssey that would carry a $500 payment or higher. what an incredible waste of our time if we do that, huh?
you cant turn a salesman against you faster than to not trust their professionalism. you dont have to trust them personally, but trust that they know what their job is. we have just as much interest in finding the right car at the right price as you do. if we dont, then a deal doesnt happen, does it?
Excellent point. It's hard to "trust" a dealership, even their professionalism, but that's just me and my stereotypes. Having said that ...
I personally do lots of research online first (hence my visits to these boards) to see if I can afford certain vehicles. I was really aiming for a Honda Pilot, but with its $30K and my poor credit, I know it isn't going to happen
I won't even test drive one. I might check out used ones, but we'll see. I realize many people do not do these things.
I always appreciate ANY advice people give! Even when I don't really want to hear it Thanks to everyone!
I LOVE the Navigators, but have always known they're way out of my league, so haven't bothered with them. I just checked out 2-year-old Navs; they're "going for" $38K!!! Hah, hard to imagine I'll ever have one. Ah, well, we must have dreams...
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The processor takes a log (usually 8 foot length) and cuts it to whatever length we set it to, then splits each piece 4 ways, then runs them up a conveyor belt into a pile where we want it. Basically takes the place of a chainsaw cutting each piece to length (thus saving the back of the person running it) and a log splitter (again saving the back of the person running it).
BTW - chimeas are those little outdoor fireplaces that seem to have become very popular recently. Those process fire wood into ash.
We have been running a firewood business for 4 years now, just figure it time to step it up a notch. My husband also falls trees for a logging operation so has access to the slash piles for firewood. We want to get into hauling short logs (for the logging business since the guy usually leaves them out there) and up the production of our firewood business. Gotta spend money to make money.
What the heck kind of language is that ..?!? .. I just go up to my fireplace, turn a valve and light it with a 12" Scripto ~ and "Phooof" you have fire ... is there any other way.?
Terry ;-)
with a BIC!!!
;-)
We actually own a firewood business, just want to expand it and make some more $$$$. Firewood is an easy product to sell in Alaska.......almost everyone has a woodstove......we certainly do and its nice and toasty right now in the house.
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Is there any special way a dealership decides which way to go?
I've always been curious about this, but what really piqued my curiosity this time was: a Kia salesperson told me when I was ready to test drive the Sedona, I could take it for the afternoon and see how it fits. That surprised me.
Thank you,
Terri
Some dealers will sign you out on a car w/ a form like a rental agreement where you agree to pay for any and all damages you may incur.
Some just don't care.
everyone assumes the driver's insurance will cover everything, but after a bunch of legalese, they didnt, and ours did. from then on, if customers are to be allowed with a car, a dealer employee MUST be present.
Lately though (well, when we bought the Dodge and were looking for a new SUV) the salesman has always gone with us. Fine by me, not like I'm going to go out and hot rod the thing. While looking at the Mazda Tribute and Pontiac Vibe I didn't mind the salesman going with.....he is after all a very close friend and fun to be around.
When I went to pick up my new Explorer the salesman asked me if I wanted to test drive it before signing, I just said no, signed the papers and left. Haven't regretted it either, its been a great little truck.
I hope your daughter is doing okay and that you are still listening to your hubby.
Duncan
i've visited the two in town. they know i'm interested, but not yet commited to the TL. i like the popular colors. i can check their inventory on the net, but not sure how accurate.
The TMV is $2000 over invoice. i think $1000 is fair- and better. should i call the out of town places or contact them online?, then use their offers on the local lots. if i do, do i need to do this all in one day?
since there are only 2 dealers, i'd like to donwplay my commitment to the TL and express my commitment to the best deal. good strategies?
thx for help.
We recently traded in our '02 Explorer for a Focus and doubled our gas mileage -- the Explorer is huge in comparison.
Re: test drives -- did a few test drives a couple of weeks ago after the auto show was in town. We were with another couple who were in the market for a new car; my wife and I were tagging along for the most part.
#1 Hyundai dealer - the other couple had a salesman accompany them when they test drove the Santa Fe (2WD GLS w/ V6). We wanted to drive the LX model with leather and the 3.5L V6; the salesman threw us the keys and told us to enjoy.
#2 Mitsubishi dealer - both we and our friends were able to drive the Outlander (separately)without a salesman.
#3 Pontiac dealer - the four of us test drove a Vibe together; again, no salesman (I don't think he would have fit in the back seat with us).
So, like has been said above, I suspect it is up to the dealer. But, for the dealers who make the decision to accompany sometimes and not others, do you think that it depends upon the prospective customer and the vehicle they want to test?
(example -- youngish looking single male wanting to test drive a WRX or Mustang vs. an older couple looking at a Camry or Accord)
if everything were equal, where would you rather buy the vehicle from?
if the prices are only a few hundred apart, buy from the place you feel the most comfortable. you'll be glad you did.
I've often wondered if appearances mean that much ... I'm sure they do!
I wish I could help on the negotiations but I'm the worst person in that regard.
Compared to our 1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually V10 4x4 truck my Explorer is a *little truck*.
Last winter I was driving around in a 1990 Suburban, lifted 4" with 35" tires, so again, the Explorer is small to me.
I almost bought a Focus when we were replacing my 97 Explorer.......but I couldn't go that small. I really wanted something at least the size of an Expedition, but settled on another Explorer. No regrets, I like my truck.....even more now that it pulled a friend's Chevy out of the ditch. *Grin*
personally, i dont prejudge someone when they are shopping, but if you are going to negotiate with THOUSANDS of dollars...
And, having visited Anchorage once some years ago, I can understand the need to have something with a bit of ground clearance -- to deal with the elements. I can't see how you lived with a Jetta in that climate.
Our family is moving away from large SUVs (before the Explorer, we had an Expedition) and towards smaller, more fuel efficient cars (the Focus, my Saturn L300 and a VW New Beetle that our son is currently driving).
When I was dressed up, I was treated with more respect, generally speaking.
My wife's step-father, OTOH, bought his last two cars (an Eldorado and a Jeep Grand Cherokee) with cash and looked like a slob both times -- in fact, I think he told me that he had a "green pea" sell him the JGC since the other salesman avoided him.
I have no idea what the supply vs. demand situation is in the midwest but here on the west coast, Acura TL's are far from being "invoice up" cars. You really might want to concentrate on the car's value to you rather than on what the dealer paid for it.
Great cars by the way!
Terry.
Terry.
I run into lots of people - this store is always busy. I'm a friendly guy, so I'll speak to anyone, at least acknowldging the presence of another human being, a forgotten art in these parts. Most "more important" people (yuppies) don't even make eye contact when I'm wearing a hoodie sweatshirt, baggy sweatpants and sneaks.
Yesterday, I had to go to court to testify - I was wearing a fairly new dark olive suit, nice tie, and shiny brown shoes. Same store, same products, roughly the same time - a guy who had driven up in a European import sedan immediately acknowldged me, saying "hi". I mean, not only am I in PA where folks aren't know for being overly friendly, especially the closer you get to Philly, but a young urban professional actually made eye contact and spoke to me.
If I was wearing my favorite hoodie, I doubt he would have.
Now, that being said, how you are judged, and YOU ARE, whether you like it or not, bears strongly on the way you're treated, both in greeting and in negotiations.
I've tried to dress down when buying a car, but I found that getting respect for my negotiating skills was tough.
In a suit or nice casual attire, that skill was assumed, it seemed, and negotiations went very easily.
Your mileage may vary, as this is all my opinion.
On the other hand, my Explorer has proved to be the perfect vehicle and it better plan on staying that way for a long time. I'll be luck to be able to afford to pay attention after hubby gets done dumping all kinds of cash into our business.
I thought I was bad about spending......he's looking at either a $32k log trailer (I'm trying to talk him out of that since its so big and heavy I think it will flat kill our V10) or a $25k short log hauler truck (small semi).
1) Decide what kind of car you want.
2) Decide where you want to buy it.
3) Decide how much you are willing to offer.
4) Go to the dealer of your choice and make your offer. If it is refused, then leave and come back here for some more advice.
From my experience, your offer will almost certainly be refused. However, when you walk to the door to leave, there is a good chance they will change their mind and accept your offer.
I hope you enjoy the whole car buying experience. If you don't, then you are doing something wrong.
Not everyone is looking for an RSX that can be bought for a few hundred over, minus the dealer cash, they weren't big sellers when you bought yours and they have been on a decline ever since ...............
Terry.
I think in the end he end up overpaying.
Car_man
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I have no idea how much they should cost. If I was going to buy one, I would do a lot of research first to get a good idea what they are selling for. Then I would compute my offer and see if they would accept it.
That is all I was advising Smith to do.
I understand what your saying, only because I have read a bunch of your posts .l.o.l.. I just meant that sometimes you have to watch the market and see what it does before you send someone out .. right now, Acura dealers are killing themselves at the auctions to keep these in stock, there seeing just about invoice with 2/3k, their paying the moon for them, so obviously they have a home for em' ....
Terry.
RSX's are another story...hard merchandise to move.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
non-Navi, automatic, both local dealers have at least 30 on the lot. And anecdotal evidence would say they are selling for about $1K over invoice. I profess no knowledge beyond my little corner of the world, though.
But, hey, on another note... Local highline used car dealer has two virtually brand-new BMW 645i. One coupe and one convertible. Naturally, asking over MSRP. Why do dealers send these through the auctions, when there are waiting lists for them?
regards,
kyfdx
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I DO shop based on the monthly payment! But I'm trying to be different this time. Tips always recommend avoiding these questions 'til after you negotiate the purchase price, but in my limited experience, the salesperson always asks these immediately!
2) Regarding Lease Terms (realize this may be for the lease board): my credit report shows I owe $14K for my Bravada, but I only have so many months left @ 356/mo, so don't I use the amount I only have left to pay in the lease calculators?
Thanks again
Response to what payment did you have in mind - Just say as close to zero as possible.
Trade in - Its up to you. Just know what your car is REALLY worth and know that you could sell it yourself for $1000-$1500 more than any dealer will give you for it. Also beware of the getting a great trade-in price at the expense of a higher new car price or high interest rates on a loan.
Knowledge is power - Some numbers to keep in mind are $20 per thousand (or so) for a new car loan at 60 months. So if you buy a car for $22k and put $2k down your payment is around $400. loan amount = 22-2k = 20k. Loan payment is then 20 times 20 or $400 a month. Bring a small calculator with you. If you trade in your car and get some equity out of it then take that off the loan. So if you get a net of $5k for your trade your new loan drops to $20-$5 = $15k which gives you a payment of $300 a month.
Know these numbers like the back of your hand before you start negotiations.
Also talk to your bank/credit union BEFORE you go to buy a car to know what rate you can get financed at. You'll usually pay more for financing at the dealer. So based on the bank rate you'll know how much car you can afford (or chose to afford).
If your current lease hasn't expired yet it will cost you EXTRA to get out of the lease regardless of what the salesman says. My advice is to wait until the lease expires to buy a new car.
If you do your homework, continue to get help on here....things should go pretty well. One of the most important things I can suggest is get a referral to a dealership and salesperson who a friend or co-worker purchased from and had a good experience. This makes things alot easier than playing salesperson and dealership roulette.
For SUV-FAN, just don't answer questions you don't want to (or more accurately, brush them off). Just say you want to concentrate on the selling price, and will discuss finance options later. Same for the trade. Not that many people do it this way, but it does make it clear exactly what you are paying for the car and financing, and getting for your trade.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
#1 the salesman will see you as a more serious prospect than a walk in.
#2 the process should be more pleasant because he will not want to alienate the guy that referred you.
#3 your attitude will be better because you won't feel like you're going to be ripped off.
this is only an assumption, but i think salesmen will work harder to make a do-able deal with a referral.
A lot of cars are way soft of book while other hot cars will often command more than wholesale.
Assuming you really can get 1000.00 more by selling it yourself, do you really want to assume that much trouble, time and risk?
Here in WA, we have a whopping 9.1% sales tax on cars. We also have a sales tax credit that applies.
This means if a seller is looking for 10,000 for his used car and a dealer only offers 9000.00, they would "save" 181.00 assuming they could really get the 10,000 they are looking for.
This doesn't count the price of the ad, the fun of sitting by the phone, waiting for no shows and dealing with non serious shoppers.
Then there's the buyer who will take you to small claims court six months later when the automatic transmission fails.
Still think it's worth it?
I don't disagree with anything that you posted. I agree that the REAL price is probably less than the book price.
However I stand by my post that you can probably (exceptions of course) sell your car for $1000 to $1500 more than a dealer will give you for trade in less all the fees and effort. Is it worth it ?? That's up to the owner.
With respect to sales tax, I suspect that many dealers (yours excluded) are well aware of the traders dilemma and price their offer accordingly to capture at least some of the sales tax equity.
I prepared income taxes for one of the young phenoms that I work with. When I was done with his taxes, his refund was about $1500 higher than what he originally calculated. He had forgotten about the carryforward of capital losses from the prior year.
Some people would say that they can do their own taxes. And some of them get it right ... sometimes. Is the $200-300 worth it? You decide.
Currently, I have a couple of cars to sell. I will probably do it myself. I would be happy to unload them to a dealer. However, my experience with the few that will give you a cash bid in this area offer me about $1000-1500 BELOW THE AUCTION PRICE that Terry gives me. If they would give me the auction price, both parties would probably come out ahead.
if i ask those 2 questions, i can more accurately point you to a vehicle that will work.
example:
"mr. suv_fan, do you plan to finance or lease?"
"finance."
"ok. what does your budget allow for your next vehicle?"
"$350/mo."
"ok, how much money do you have to put down?"
"$1500"
now, knowing that you need a vehicle with 7 passenger capacity, i would point you to a 2-3 year old domestic minivan. windstar, caravan, venture, etc...
if you refuse to answer or you duck the questions, i might show you a new quest or odyssey that would carry a $500 payment or higher. what an incredible waste of our time if we do that, huh?
you cant turn a salesman against you faster than to not trust their professionalism. you dont have to trust them personally, but trust that they know what their job is. we have just as much interest in finding the right car at the right price as you do. if we dont, then a deal doesnt happen, does it?
Simply ignore the question.
Just because you are asked a question puts you under no obligation to answer it.
I visit a car dealer to get answers to my questions, not to answer their questions.
I personally do lots of research online first (hence my visits to these boards) to see if I can afford certain vehicles. I was really aiming for a Honda Pilot, but with its $30K and my poor credit, I know it isn't going to happen
I won't even test drive one. I might check out used ones, but we'll see. I realize many people do not do these things.
I always appreciate ANY advice people give! Even when I don't really want to hear it
I LOVE the Navigators, but have always known they're way out of my league, so haven't bothered with them. I just checked out 2-year-old Navs; they're "going for" $38K!!! Hah, hard to imagine I'll ever have one. Ah, well, we must have dreams...