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For the mirror, I would check around with the used part dealers. You may be able to buy a complete assembly less expensively, or even if you find a damaged one that the mirror is not broken on, you could perhaps salvage the parts you need, even if the used housing is not in the best shape.
. 4 months later again, the engine intake manifold gasket developed a leak and cost me $600 to have replaced. The car has not gone back to a GM dealership since and except for an oil change and tire rotation, nothing else has gone wrong (cross my fingers).
I find the car reasonably well designed and if the problems I've experienced are factory issues, then I have a lemon since there does not seem to be another car I've heard of or every owned that has had all these things happen. My suspicion is more to do with the dealership servicing.
I have some injuries that cause me physical problems, so I don’t like being bounced around. Also, it’s hard for me to get a good driving position (short arms). Power seat helps; telescopic wheel is ideal. Car must not be expensive to maintain. Neither an econobox nor large (city parking). I’d like to pay cash, $15K on down. I’m thinking about Century. I'm younger than the typical Buick image, but... It seems like it has a smooth, quiet ride, it’s available used at a good price (though not as cheaply as a Taurus?), and I can get a pretty good position with a power seat. After various experiences (including rentals), I have ruled out Hyundais, Mitsu’s, Volvos, Toyotas, the Altima (loved the seat but minded its suspension which seemed bumpy and noisy), and Honda.
So, Century, Impala, Taurus—am I missing any other “floaty” types? Pros, cons? Any advice appreciated as I’m purchasing over the next few days. And, for the Century, is to worth it to get a relatively new one (say 2000-02) vs. a cheaper older one? Would also consider leasing a car if it is more $ but otherwise meets my needs. Thanks, folks!
If you buy one and plan on keeping it awhile, I'd go for a new one because they have a $3500 rebate and you get the 3 year warranty. We have a dealer in Pittsburgh that sells at $100 over invoice, then factors in the rebate. I'm not a fan of used cars, especially century's since the off-lease ones for sale are often company cars, and may not be well cared for.
Also check out the Impala. I prefer the seating position of the Impala...more upright. The base Impala has a smooth ride. The taurus is ok and well built, but the ride takes a back seat to the Buick and Impala.
Best Wishes!
I've been hesitant to buy new, because most Amer cars depreciate rapidly and I'm not sure I will love it enough to drive it for 10 years.
I like the Imp and will test-drive it again. But it has a lot more noise than the Century--engine, suspension, and road noise.
I am probably going to toss out the Taurus.
Any other thots on the Century vs. similar vehicles are most welcome...
Thanks! --Tuneful
Aren't the Impala and Gran Prix the same?
And Century/REgal and Olds Intrigue the same?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If you go for the used Limited model, it's more likely it is a lease return rather than a rental. Most, if not all, the rental Century's are standard Custom models.
I also drive a 1999 Honda Accord (4cyl). The Honda feels "sportier" and lighter but in reality, the Century is a faster car. The quiet interior sort of hides that from you. The Honda cost about $1000 more and does not have ABS, Traction control, dual zone AC, power trunk lid, theft deterrant, and a bunch of other useful creature comforts.
Sometimes, I think the Century ride feels softer due to the ultra plush seats.
so much that it causes interference to AM radio reception. Is this a common fault and is there a fix?
If so would a fuel injector cleaner work from an auto parts store?
Please advise
MasonMI
We had the 96 century with stalling problem. It needed the fuel pump to be replaced since it was heating up and sending the fuel intermitently. I would suggest 1997 and newer. Per consumer reports review. 97 and newer had far few problems than older ones.
Good luck.
The trunk is great and the wheels are big. The six passenger seating (Bench seats) is nice too. Maybe that's why the seat are comfortable.
The engine is 175hp and gas mileage is great at 29 highway. I drive 30K/year so that is important. So far, the only problems have been:
Static as I mentioned
Stuck rear window which a little WD4o addressed (I guess the car was sitting on the lot for a long time).
Too much to remember e.g., reset oil change warning by stepping on accelerator three times fast, reset tire inflation monitor each time tire rotated by removing fuse box and hitting reset, etc.). A lot of this seems to be in place to have you visit the dealer but the instructions are in the manual so I'l learn them.
The spare is a donut which I find to be a disgrace. Camry gives you, or at least used, a full sized spare.
A remote starter would have been nice but it was not offered and my dealer won't install one.
The doors swing wide open but they also close very easily given their size.
The car is 300lbs heavier than a Camry which is nice.
I must be one of the few young (37) converts back to American but so far so good. I like the feel, look, value, power, and reliability scores. My 97 Camry was new model year and the problems wre persistent. On the other hand, my wife's 91 Camry (sold for the Buick) had over 163K miles and was bulletproof. The rust got it but the engine, alternator, transmission, radiator, distributor, CV joints, stereo, AC, shocks and struts, etc. were original. What a car.
I do not like the appearance of either the current Accord or the Camry. The Buick is no stunner but has far better proportions than the slab sided Camry or the droopy looking Accord. Plus my Civic with its flat floor already seats five people (everyone is small in my family). The only reason for me to get a mid size would be for the extra seating.
I drive a lot each year on my cars and on rentals. I always try and get a mid size GM product which, to me, provide the most comfortable, safe motoring over very long hauls. The Camry also has a nice soft ride (but usually not available from rentals) while the Accord is as firm and noisy as my Civic, although a pleasure to drive for shorter trips (up to a couple of hours).
I am glad GM is making such great strides in quality. It feels weird after driving their cars for over two decades, not having one in my garage now. I still have lots of money on my GM Visa card too....
with 18000 km on it. As soon as i drove it 2 blocks i was in love, SMOOOOOTH is all i can say.Hard to believe this car has the same 3.1 V-6
my Malibu has. Even liked the Navy blue color
and the bench seats.Gotta have one when the extended warranty runs out on my Bu.
Happy New Year To All enjoy your cars.
I too have a 3.1 litre In My 1999 Chevrolet
Malibu. This Car has had the Intake Manifold
Gasket repaired TWICE ! First Time At 71,000 Km
Second time at 109,000. The mechanic at my
Toronto Ont. area dealership told me GM is using
an improved Gasket material that should improve
the longevity. (HMMM) As far as GM Replacing it,
unless you have an extended warranty (I DO on
my Malibu) I doubt they will, seeing as you're
past the 3 YR/ 60,000 Km Factory Warranty. If you
pressure your dealership you never know. As far
as cost of repair goes i've heard everything
from $500.00 at a local garage to $1000.00 at
the Dealer, so get some estimates Sadly, this is
a known flaw on GM 3.1 litre Engines. Take a look
On the Chevy Malibu Forum almost everyone has had
this problem. Hope this is helpful. Good Luck
with Your Car. We are thinking of buying a Century
Had one as a rental when the Bu was in the shop. Is it a good
everyday Car ? Reliable ? Only had it for an overnight so it was
kinda hard to tell.First impression was good. smooth ride and very
quiet interior. Any Thoughts ??
One more thing is that I notice the power window only works at the master controller. I read something in this forum and found this might be a persistent problem, is it true? Also, for a car at this high mileage, when would I expect to throw money in for major repair. Please give your opinion and thanks very much.
Disconnect first the two connector at the map sensor, pull out the plastic pipe from the duct also.not more than 20 mn
Getting rubber duct off was troublesome. Before your post I tried removing it from end where air filter element box is. Nope.
After disconnecting sensor wires (putting them in safe out of the way place) and PCV, and loosening the strap screws at both ends, wrapped both hands around end of duct at engine end, then gave it a short twist to bust it loose. Grabbed the accordian part of the duct and gave it a good healthy pull to remove it from the engine. From there it was pretty easy.
This is my son's car. Just got it. '03 rental return (Hertz). Considerate Dad is changing out oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter.
Here's the scary part. When engine was stone cold, removed radiator cap and found orangish-yellowish crud at the top of the filler neck. Vehicle only has 23,400 miles on it. Recovery tank was at the FULL mark as expected, but the coolant was about 3/4 inch below the top of the filler neck.
Took it to Jiffy Lube and for $92 US (with AAA discount) they power flushed the system with new Dex-cool. But wonder: is it too late? Is the crud everywhere in the radiator, water pump, engine sleeves? There's still 11k+ miles left on warranty, but wonder what GM would do about it.
I had some of that stuff in my Pontiac Montana recovery thanks. That stuff looked like saw dust paste.
I doubt that the cooling system is contaminated at such low milleage, but hey, its hard to tell from here !!
46000 mi
keyless entry
cruise
cassettee
ABS
power W/L and driver seat
1 owner
some crack on windshield
from a used car dealer
he is firm at $6100
KBB trade is $4900 Private party $6900
Edmunds Trade in $5600 private party $6800
What's you guys opinion about this?
Is that a reasonale price?
Which particular part should pay special attention when mechanical check?
thanks much!
1. Fix the windshield. It's really a safety thing since the windshield is an integral component of the passive restraint airbag system.
2. Provide name and phone number of the previous owner. This would be invaluable in that you can verify the vehicle is indeed a one-owner, if there were any problems that in your mind might make you uncomfortable enough to walk away, and if there are any maintenance records. (FWIW, when a dealer tells me it's a one-owner and then tells me he called the owner and they declined to have him give their phone number to me, I do indeed walk away).
3. Provide a Car-Fax report at no charge. The dealer should already have a Car-Fax account good for unlimited reports.
4. Power flush the cooling system and fill with new Dex-Cool, again at no charge. (Note: there are numerous postings on GM related boards like this one of problems with Dex-Cool. Before dealer does anything, remove radiator cap and check for any sludge. Also check inside the coolant overflow tank.)
5. Provide at least a 30-day/1,000 mile powertrain warranty at no charge. During that time check every week for any coolant leaks on garage floor, and check level of coolant in overflow tank. If dealer does flush the system, you might need to top it off during the first week, but if you have to add any after that it might be due to the notorious head gasket problem. Common advice for 3.1L V6 owners is to keep the Dex-Cool level at the HOT mark even when it is cold.
There are lots of Buick Centurys and Regals out there to pick from, so if anything about this one sounds "spicious" just be patient and keep looking until you find the right one. In helping my son find a Century it took two weeks and saying "No" to a dozen other cars.
Hope this helps and good luck!
In any event, I'm guessing (hoping!) your Buick is still under the 36 month/36,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty, so it would be well worth having the dealer look at it for you.
Please let us know what they find. This board is a great place to learn about cars, and relating your experience might save time and money for many others.
Thanks!
-Steven-
This is a known problem on some Gm motors.The 3.1
is probably the most well known. Most mechanics
don't seem to think of it as a major problem
related to engine life. As long as it quiets down
after the car warms up it is considered "Normal".
If your'e still concerned about it have your
mechanic listen to it after the car has sat
overnight. Hope this helps.
Thanks! We recently moved, so I still haven't found a satisfactory mechanic. This reassures me for a while until I locate a dependable shop.
-Steven-
Both of us filed a claim with the Camero's insurance company, we don't what he is telling his insurance company yet, however, I do believe he won't admit fault easily. It was a tough crash,I believed my century must get totalled, although I may only feel a little shock when the accident happened, the next day I started to feel pain on the neck and my right arm,I feel some numbness on my legs, too, and it get worse these days, I feel I need to see a doctor tomorrow about that.
While this is the first I get hurt in an accident, so I am not sure what's the right step should I take to deal with this accident. When I visit the doctor, should I show him my own health insurnace or should I let him bill the other driver's insurance company directly? Some friends said I should hire a lawer to ask for compensation, what do you guys think?
I like both cars, but would like input form those who have lived with these little beasties over the long run.
Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to sway me one way or the other based on features you like or dislike about either car.
Turboshadow
I am seriously considering the purchase of a Rebuilt 2001 Buick Century Limited that was crashed. It was sold at a Salvage Auction and professionaly rebuilt by a 40 year body man that does this as a part time business.
It was hit in the left front side and all front end sheet metal was replaced including, the core support, radiator & A/C condensor, small under hood parts, and also had a new GM Sub-Frame assembly installed which included new suspension and left shock tower assembly. The Air Bags WAS NOT Deployed because of where it was hit. There was not even any damage to the drivers door, only the front end was damaged.
The car has less than 25k miles and is a loaded Limited model. It drives like a dream, looks new and smells new. But it does have a salvage title which I was made clear of. The price is $5500 Less than the KBB Retail Value. Should I really be concerned considering the quality of this rebuild and the reputation of the bodyman? I've restored Ford trucks by hobby for 24 years, but I don't know GM models. This car looks new on top and underneith. Give me your thoughts!
Thanks!
Dan
I took it to my mechanic who does my non warranty work and he told me right away what it was and explained why it happens on most cars who have that engine.
He did more than replace the gasket. I figured he may as well replace the plugs, wires, fan belt because none had ever been changed. Had an oil change with filter and new coolant. The cost was almost what I guessed, slightly less than $600.00. New PVC too.
He showed me the gaskets that he took out and it is apparent why they fail. They have a tiny rubber thread that goes around the outside just a bit off the edge of the gasket and I was advised that most of the time they fail first in one particular corner.
Does anyone know what that rubber was supposed to do? The replacement gaskets did not have any rubber in them.
Can anyone confirm this? Is this new for MY '05 or are these from the '04 year too?
Yes, those are indeed Intrigue wheels. Maybe they had some extra ones in a warehouse or something.
-Andrew L
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
310-309-4900
jfallon@edmunds.com
From what I've read, the 3.1 is notorious for head gasket problems--am I stuck with a vehicle that's going to require a 500-700 dollar repair every 18 months?
Thrice
Does this sound about right?
Thrice
However, in your car antifreeze leaks inside engine. It is better to replace the gasket now, than replacing the whole engine soon. Hopefully it is not too late.
The job includes coolant system flush and oil change after repair. In Connecticut it costs about $650 at dealership, about $100 less at independent shop: roughly $50 gasket and bolts, $40 two gallons of DexCool, and $500-$600 labor. The numbers are for Chevy Malibu, with the same 3.1l engine.