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Buick Century



  • Yes, the screeching noise is heard only when the A/C is on. I will get it checked out this weekend and let you know what it turned out to be. Thx.
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    What were your symptoms? I have a 2000 Buick Century and it feels like it misses around 40Mph and again at highway speeds I can feel a surging, bucking or missing. I think it may be a fuel injector, but I was just curious what kind of sypmtoms you had.

  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I'm not the one who posted the original "Clogged Fuel Injector" post, but it reminds me of the time I neglected to use Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner for over a year in my Buick Regal. Cost $200 (including engine diagnostic charge) to have the fuel injectors cleaned out. Since then I pour a bottle of Techron into my gas tank every time I do an oil change. Engine runs fine. :shades:
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    I just recently had the entire fuel system cleaned at the dealership, as I have seen this make a huge difference in other cars that I have owned with the 3.1 V6. After reading another post last night, I am going to remove the plugs that I purchased and installed about a month ago (Bosch double plat) and replace with AC Delco. If that doesn't fix it, I'm going to take it in and have it looked at. I'm starting to think I might have a clogged fuel injector that only acts up when engine RPM is low (i.e. idle and on the highway at cruising speed.) What brand of fuel injector cleaner do you use?

  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    I've had some problems with my car missing and bucking at 40Mph & 70-75Mph and thought it might have been a clogged fuel injector. Today, I replaced the Bosch plugs that I had installed about a month ago with AC Delco Platinum plugs. What a difference! The car idles smoother and runs 100% better than before. When I returned the plugs to Advanced Auto Parts, the gentleman told me that I should have never installed the Bosch plugs in my car. Of course this was a different guy than the one who sold me the plugs, but he said that they only work good in foreign vehicles (Bosch Platinum 2 Plugs). Now I think that is a blanket statement, but I will say they didn't work in my 2000 Buick Century with 96k miles which has the 3.1 Liter V6 motor. Now that I am an expert at installing plugs in this motor as I've done it with my Corsica, Cutlass Supreme, and other Buick Century I used to own, I can now replace all the plugs in less than 30 minutes. The trick is to remove the coil pack assembly and you can then see the rear plugs. Sorry to ramble on, just hoping this might help someone else.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    What brand of fuel injector cleaner do you use?

    I use Techron Fuel Injection Cleaner made by Chevron. It is sold most everywhere, incuding Wal-Mart.
  • fsbdriverfsbdriver Posts: 1
    I have a 77 buick century 4 door sedan .I bought it used from my uncle 6 yrs ago . Its still a good car had turned over millage one and has over 300 ,000 miles on it . the engine dont smoke at all.Is it really hard to replace the fuse box under the dash ? :(
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I would think replacing any fuse box would be a monumental task even for a seasoned mechanic. Have you considered replacing the effected circuit(s) with an aftermarket inline fuse kit? Some of the pre-airpump GM's were fine cars. I had a 77 Bonneville with the 350R that was a real die-hard with plenty getty-up. Good Luck.
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    I just bought a 98 Century w/ 136,000 miles.
    It belonged to my mother in law for the last 50,0000 miles/3 years and she didn't really do any maintenance. 2 repairs with clogged injectors were done (only cleaning with some chemicals).
    the reason I bought it, because I only drive 3 miles to work with it.... I wouldn't use it for any other reason (we have a new Mazda 3 as our real car).
    According to the manual I needed to change motor oil (that has been done occasionally), check the fluids (power steering and coolant might need some filling.
    What is the exact fluid for the power steering? The manual doesn't say. I will replace the air filter myself, will have the oil changed. Maybe I replace the spark plugs. Are they easy to replace? Do I need a tourque nut for that?
    I didn't read anything about replacing the fuel filter. Do I need to replace that, if so, which type (part number, so I can buy it). Do I need to replace the tranny fluid? The manual says every 50,000 miles under severe conditions. But that doesn't apply and I didn't find anything about repalcing it otherwise. Once I drive more than 3 miles I'll check the tranny oil level (manual says driving 15 miles to heat it up before checking)
    The front left indicator bulb burns out often, and every year in the past the fuel injector was dirty (the service engine soon light was on). That was a $140 -$ 180 bill. Other than that no problems.
    A 2004 shop bill indicated, that the water pump seeps/($250) and the belt needs to be replaced ($75), which hasn't been done. Not sure if they only tried to make money, since my mother in law drove it 30 k miles more w/o any problems regarding to that. To me the belt looks fine. The manual doens't say anything about replacing that.
    Anyway, are there any things I should do? Don't want to pay too much because I only drive so little, on the other hand I don't want to be towed....
    I'm planning on keeping that car for 1-2 years, unless my work place changes and I need to drive more. I do realize, that this is an old car.... but for my purpose it'd be OK, I guess.
    If the injector gets dirty/clogged, are those cans you buy to pour into the tank any good? That's why I want to change the fuel filter/air filter/spark plugs to avoid that problem. Maybe I put that cleaner in the tank just in case. Right now it drives fine (whatever that means, it is slow, wiggly, a whole different world from Mazda, that's why old people like buick :-).. but it has been that since I knew it 3 years ago). I replaced some bulbs today.. once the tires wear out/something other needs to be done I'll trade it in.... but I'm willing to invest something to keep it moving.
    Thanks for your input
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    I now filled up some power steering fluid that i bought at Walmart... it said it woudl mix with most of the fluids.
    The left front blinker still doesn't work. The little plastic socket is kind of melt. the parking light works, but no blinker.
    the online autoparts warehouse has some stuff to order.... I also ordered a repair book from th elibrary. If anyone has suggestions what maintenance i should do, that would be helpful. I chekced the engine oil, that is full. The oil change light doesn't come on eihter. The tranny fluid is full... it looked kind of pink. Is that normal? It was more than full.
    Now fuel filter and air filter are the things to repalce, if you advise so. Will wait with the spark plugs.
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    Hmmm...Where do I start....First thing I would do is replace the plugs. They are a little difficult to do the first time, and require patience. The belt should be replaced if you notice any cracks in the underside. I would buy a belt/tension bar which will help you pull up on the belt tensioner/pully, for less then $10 and the belt should cost less than $20. Fuel Filter isn't that hard either, and should be done every 50k. It's a little messy, but not difficult. As for fuel injectors clogging, it's very common on this motor. Make sure you use 89 grade fuel and stay away from certain gas stations. Not sure what to tell you about the water pump. I've never replaced one, and I'm sure it's a messy job too, but probably isn't that hard.
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    I think your left front blinker must have a short in the wire somewhere. I would check the wire and see if there is insulation that has wore off and is causing a wire to rub up against the frame. The oil life sensor (oil change light) is usually reset by the oil change facility if they remember to do it. When I purchased a 99 century in 2000 with 20k miles on it, I decided to use the oil life sensor and after 7500 miles I became a little nervous and changed the oil. I realized that oil changes are the cheapest maintenance you can do to a car and if you do so every 2500-3000 miles, your motor will last beyond 200k. I hear many people talk about how they have had to replace their motor at 100k-125k and it's because they didn't do the maintenance. This is a strong motor and only has a couple known flaws (intake gasket very common). While your replacing the air filter, I would also replace the cabin air filter which I believe the 98's had. This filters the air coming in from the outside to the inside of your car. Many people fail to replace them and it can make a world of difference if you have allergies etc. As for your tranny fluid, pink to light red is good. Dark red to black is very bad. Keep a watch on that transmission as that transmission is known to have issues with the 4th gear. I know because I just had mine rebuilt because the previous owner did a Jiffy Lube trans flush (WORSE THING TO DO). If you decided to get the transmission maintenance done, take it to a dealer and have them drop the pan, replace the filter and the fluid. Granted, this does not replace all the fluid in the system, but a flush will back flush contaminants into the trans filter, thus clogging it, and depriving the transmission of fluid. The fuel filter on your century might be in a different place than my 2000 century as I have a plastic gas tank so the gas lines probably run a little different. The fuel filter is generally located towards the back of the vehicle, underneath, and it has a line running in and a line running out. One line is a high pressure line and the other has a nut that can be a royal pain to remove if it's rusted. Buy yourself some PB Blaster rust remover and drench the entire connection, walk away for about 15 minutes and come back. Make sure when you loosen the nut that you are not directly underneath it as gas will come out (about 2 to 3 cups). Of course I won't go into anymore detail as your repair manual should show you how to do this.
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    I got the maintenance/repair book. It looks like the belt should be easy. Or is there a catch, that I need super human power? But the belt looks good to me, I checked. No cracks etc. Maybe I buy one and keep it in the trunk just in case.
    The fuel filter and spark plugs I will have done by a shop, sounds messy to me. How much would that cost me? Since the tranny oil looks good, and I only drive so little I stay away from that, I will replace the air filter myself. Don't care so much about the cabin air filter, it's only me driving 3 miles to work. I need to fill in some Dex-Cool. The coolant tank is so low, that I could not even take a sample with the freezing point tester. I won't flush/replace it, .... I guess it will be fine and over 3 miles the engine won't over heat either way. That car only is capable of driving grandpa-style anyway :-)
    About the oil change minder, how can it not come on after 7500 miles? I suppose if the people who changed the oil last did not do anything because it was before the light came on, then it should come on even sooner.
    I havn't even driven the car the last days, will drive it daily to work at the end of August after we move. Then I will see more what quirks it has. But i want to deal with the main neglectance (filters, plugs) before that.
    The front left indicator light is fixed. Actually the plastic socket where the bulb goes in is kind of melt, so the contacts didn't realy touch the bulb contacts. Now it works after some wiggling and squeezing.
    I tested the battery (it is a repalcement battery from a brand I forgot) with one of those acid density things and the cells are charged evenly, all full. However, I think the liquid barely covers the lead. I think I put in some desitilled water in each (it is not one of those maintenance free batteries, the caps came off easily).
    I know more should be done, but then I spend more money than the car is worth. and the only reason i don't buy a new car is, that I barely drive with it. If I drove more I would spend more money. But that would never end. The steering is wabbely, ... and the year long neglectance. I suppose my mother in law who owned the car for 50,000 miles didn't do anything, and the owner before who had it till 88,000 miles did not too much before selling it. I seriously believe fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs are still original.
    Since tranny fluid looks normal, that and engine oil are the only things ever replaced. It is surprising how much a car can take.....
  • davisgradavisgra Posts: 1
    My car, a 1992 Buick Century with a V6, is making this weird clacking noise from the front end as soon as I start it up. The car's acceleration and handling doesn't seem any different, but it almost sounds like something is rattling around in there. As soon as the car goes over 20 mph, though, the noise completely stops and everything seems fine. When I slow down again, it comes back. Any ideas as to what could be wrong? I think I might take it in to a shop tomorrow; any suggestions as to where to go? The car hasn't had any real problems; has 130,000 miles on it, and all of the fluids are checked and at the right level. I'd appreciate any help anyone would have...
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sounds like pebble in the hub cap syndrome to me. The good part is it doesn't cost anything to fix. Let us know what you find out.
    Good luck
  • I now replaced the motor air filter. The front driver blinker melts the lamp socket, so it loses contact. With little wiggling it works again. I just stopped at a buick dealer to buy a new socket for the lamp, but that department was already closed.
    they quoted fuel filter change would be $45, and replacing spark plugs would be $155 including some intake manifold cleaning and platinum spark plugs. (considering how retarded the design is, I might them have do it)
    I have to say, my Mazda 3 with a smaller hood makes maintenance easier than the buick with lots of room. Everything is designed to make maintenance as labor intensive as possible :-)
    for now I will leave the accessory belt the way it is, it looks good to me. I'm not sure if I should have the coolant flushed. I read the anti-corrosive wears out and it will make the frost plugs and other things corrode.
    Is there a way to see the frost plugs in the engine, if they are rusty?
    I know more should be done, but with driving only 3 miles to work I don't want to overdo it....
  • Is it true that there is a lifetime warranty on the engine belt [serpentine??? belt] through the buick dealership? And if so, how does one go about getting that changed?
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    The belt is a replacement item; early or late, but it always wears out.

    However, when a new belt I replaced at Chevy dealership worn up after only 12k miles, they replaced the belt again for free. The service adviser called GM, and GM paid for it.
  • the buick century is very reliabele i love it!
  • I have a 1999 Buick Century 3.1L V6. It has just over 120k miles on it.

    I purchased it, and didnt even know it had a tick which would occur after the car was running for a minute... and it never goes away. It is harder to hear at higher RPM's (over 2,000) but it's still there.

    I notice a lot of people have problems with engine tick at cold startup, but I have not seen any people post about engine tick AFTER a cold startup

    What is wrong? Is it bad? Easy to fix? Expensive? Will my motor last? What should I do?

  • I need to replace the right headlight on my 1998 Buick century. Actually I need to replace the bumper, right fender and a ton of other things too (car wreck :sick: ), but thats besides the point. My question is, what other Buicks can I get parts from? I've been looking on ebay for headlights and a lot of them say "Regal/Buick right headlight" etc. Specifically, I was wondering if I could use a 2003 LeSabre headlight. Also, if anyone knows of a website that lists parts that can be swapped out, that would be great as well. Thank you. :blush:
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    The headlights need to come from other Century/Regal models. I do not believe the LeSabre headlight would work. The good news is the Century/Regal headlights are easy to install and often readily available at reasonable prices on eBay.
  • cdawleycdawley Posts: 2
    The headlights need to come from Regal/Buick models. You can use any headlights on that car from the years 1997-2005, as well as parts. I just bought one for my 97 Century for the driver's side from Ebay. Depending on where you live, you may be able to find a salvage yard that you can get parts from.
  • cdawleycdawley Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Century. The low beams don't work. I replaced the bulbs and it didn't work. I traced the wiring back to the underhood box and it appears that they are good. Fuses good. Not sure if switch is bad. is there a way to test the switch? High beams work, blinkers work, windshield wipers work. Haven't tried cruise control yet.
  • I will be looking at a 2003 Buick Century this week. The car has 58,000 and the dealer is asking $6995. I am concerned about the engine problems you mention. Is there a way to check visually if there is a problem with the gaskets?
  • I will be looking at a 2003 Buick Century with 59,000 miles this week. I have heard that the 3100 has a know problem with the Intake and Head Gaskets. I had a 1999 Malibu and had to replace both with cost over $2000.00. Is there a way to check if these gaskets are starting to go?
  • rogdogrogdog Posts: 9
    I've searched this Forum but did not see an exact duplicate of the problem I am having. I had a Low Coolant light that was coming on and going off randomly. Had my dealer top off the Coolant and it was ok for a few weeks. Then it started again. The Temp gauge has never gone over half way and the engine has never seemed overly hot. Heater seems OK. I filled the overflow bottle again and it was ok for awhile. Then I found out about the Bleed valves in the cooling system. Followed directions and topped off the Radiator cap tube. (All with Dex-Cool). Now Low coolant light comes on every time when engine is cold and goes off after engine warms up. Overflow tank is fine and, (after Engine cools), removing radiator cap, coolant is up to base of neck as called for. Any ideas as to what is going on here?
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    I've had this same problem with other vehicles that had the same engine. I would have the dealer/repair facility look at the intake gaskets. You may be able to see a leak if you lift the hood and look under the air intake hose (air filter assembly hose that runs to the engine), on top of the transmission, you may see a small puddle of coolant. That's how I noticed mine. This is a very common problem with the 3.1 and 3.4L V6 motors. If you have 100k and it hasn't been replaced, you're lucky!
  • I have a 94 buick century, the anti lock light is constantly on, it doesn't really effect anything, except it annoys the crap out of me. I took it to a mechanic, they don't know what is wrong. anyone have this same problem? could the sensor just be broken? it happened to my girls malibu and they said it was a sensor that was bad, wanted to charge too much to fix it so we let it go, is this common in high mileage GM vehicle? anyway anyone know how to disconnect the light at least? do I just have to take apart my dash, thanks for any help in advance
  • I own a buick century 1999 and noticed that the passenger window works sometimes and other times not. I noticed when it is humid it will not work When it is not it works fine. any thoughts on what the problem might be thanks
  • Have a ?. Any of you Buick owners have any idea what the value of a 1986 Buick Gran Sport is. According to Buick, 1029 were built. Car is stored in the winter and in very good condition. In my state according to my research 2 were sold and I have one of the two. The only information I have is that the car is considered very rare.
  • Hi. Well, yes, you are correct about the production number. It is hard to pinpoint the value of a car this new, even given its rarity. On one hand, it is a rare/unique car, but at the same time it's on what many consider to be a bland platform shared by so many other GM models...and of course, the fact that it isn't yet an antique/classic doesn't help either. Personally, I like them....but not everyone does (again, b/c of their simplicity). Chances are, they will never be as valuable as something like a Grand National of the same year, but only time will tell! Honestly, I would list the car on Ebay...with that much exposure, you're sure to get close to what the car is "truly worth".
  • I have a 1999 Buick Century Custom. When I press the trunk release on my remote keyless entry, nothing happens. Inside the car, you hear a "click" sound, but nothing more. I've checked each fuse and tested the loads. The car has no trunk release inside. It's getting annoying to have to get out of the car each time I need something and use the key. Any help would be appreciated.
  • You should have a trunk release button in the glove box (Yellow Button). If it works by that button than it's something with the remote. If you don't have the button, I'm not really sure how you can test it. If you are hearing something inside the car, it may be that the relay or silinoid is not working.
  • The 99 Buick Centuries had an optional trunk release inside the car. Unfortunately, mine wasn't equipped with this. When I press the button on the remote, it triggers SOMETHING, explaining the clicking I hear inside the car. However, nothing actually opens the trunk. I was planning to wire a push button into the car to open the trunk from the inside, but I won't until I know that the power trunk release is working properly.
  • jdh93jdh93 Posts: 7
    have a 93 Century. About 3 weeks ago the already rusted out muffler and tail pipe fell off. It ran fine for another 2 weeks. About a week ago, it was completley dead. The starter was rebuilt and it ran fine for about 2 days. Then it began to often die right after it tarted. After various tries restarting it, it usually starts, but it releases a plume of smoke and then runs and idles very sluggishly. Sometimes it dies while I am driving. There is a strong smell of gas. This only happens about half the time. It often starts on the first crank and runs and idles smoothly. I have replaced all filters and treated the fuel system and the injectors. # mechanics have looked at it, but the problem never arose when they checked it. They hooked it up to the diagnostic computer, but it didn´t indicate a problem. I live in an area where there are no Buick dealers and where I don´t have a reliable mechanic.(I am new to the area.) Can anyone make ny suggestions as to what should be checked, what the problem sounds like or give me any advice in general???Does it sound like an exhaust or a fuelsystemproblem? The car has only 70,000 miles on it. ( My grandmother bought it new) and it has been reliable for me up until now. Please help me if you can. Thanks.
  • my key that opens the trunk and the doors does not work, neither does my release botton in the glove box. What should I do now?
  • Hi, your problem is at the truck wiring. i had the same thing happen to me could not get it fixed. i decided to check out the wiring and found it all brittle and cut. you will have to do some rewiring. very easy!!!

  • Hi, i also have a problem . my lighter does not seem to work. the ash tray light works. I have taken this a apart and check it with a volt meter but i cannot get a reading. i know there is power do to the fact that the ashtray light works. any suggestions??

  • I'm not sure, but I think that the ashtray light is wired into the courtesy lighting in the rest of the car. Try your fuse in the compartment on the passenger side. There's a fuse specifically in for the cigarette lighter. It's most likely a little 10A fuse. Also, When you mentioned the trunk wiring in my car. Did it affect anything else in the trunk? My lights across the trunk applique (park lights, licence plate lamps, reverse lights) work when they feel like it, when they do work, my DOOR/TRUNK light stays on, it goes off when the lights quit. If you've experienced anything like this, let me know! hope I helped you!
  • HI, i had no problem with the lights when i had my truck issues. but it seems like the wires are messed up. i do recall that i had other wires that were damaged but seem to give me no other problems. i did replace them thou!!! as for your info, you it did help me. the fuse charts are a bit misleading for they say that the fuse that controls the cig lighter is located in the engine compartment. so i never thought to look in the interior fuse panel. I did have a blown fuse. the ashtray light thru me off, so it still worked. bu the way, i have had very little problem with my 2000 BC. how about you??

  • I'm glad I was able to help you. I can say that my Century is the best car I've owned. I buy and sell cars, and I've owned a '99 Lumina, a '96 LeSabre, and a '97 Malibu before it, and it is easily the best one so far. It has a few little problems, but its definitely in great shape for it's mileage.
  • As an owner of 2 of these cars,and previously a third car,I believe the following of these rare cars is very thin. Its too bad as well,as they are the coolest car with all the blackout they received. The GS option alone was almost 4 grand alone. I have been building a website dedicated to these rare(1 of 1029) cars. You can check it out here..

    My cars are on Car Domain as well
  • i get a ticking then grinding sound in my 99 century only when heater is turned on.thanks rick
  • how common is it for antifreeze to enter the intake manifold,i just took it in for semi annual check,and they want me to write them a check $812.thanks rick
  • what is the best manuel to buy for a 99 buick century,also is it easy or hard to change a water pump on a 99 century.thanks rick
  • Anyone know how to remove the rear seat of a 2005 Buick Century? I want to put some seat covers on. It should be simple but being a technopeasant I don't want to damage the seats trying myself not knowing how to do it correctly and I don't want to pay a dealer $75 an hour to do what should only take 15 seconds.
  • I have a 99 century custom. During the winter everytime it was below 30 degrees, the transmision didn't want to go into gear until a few minutes had past. It was hesitating like it wanted to go into gear, but didn't. After a few minutes, the trans work completly fine going through all the gears perfectly. After the engine cooled down the next morning it had happened again. This only happens when it gets below 30 or so. I have had the trans rebuilt and it worked fine for a month and then started with the hesitation again. Also have changed the temp sensor in the transmition with no effect. My mechanics have no idea what to do and have asked other mechanics and have no idea either.
  • The problem is when the car is'cold' (not up to norm. op. temp.) the car runs fine but when it is up to norm. op. temp it's a different story. Upon accelerating the engine bogs and bucks slightly but if you put your foot to the floor it stumbles slightly and then accelerates. Plugs are champion platnium and look like they're burning fine the plug wires are new and have been putting injector cleaner/dry gas in fairly reg. Eng temp. is in normal range and there no codes present. HELP!
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